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Luckily, it is not all teary-eyed past-reviving that is occurring at this anniversary — kudos to AP for it. Accordingly, together with the re-edition Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph, we see the Introduction of the brand new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, namely Ref. 26421ST and 26421OR, that possess a completely new design in two different instance materials.Based on two earlier Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph watches, specifically the Ref. 26388PO (watch our hands-on with it here) and 26288OR, those new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph watches come in stainless steel and 18k rose gold and feature a brand new case design that has a thinner bezel and hence a more open dial. Nevertheless, the distinctive Royal Oak Offshore design characteristics are all intact. The 45mm case remains angular, the bezel remains octagonal, and there’s no lost those exposed hexagonal screws on the bezel. Water resistance is also 100m. On the dial, an individual can observe the vulnerable movement and the tourbillon at 9 o’clock. Opposite the tourbillon at 3 o’clock is your 30-minute counter to get the chronograph. Also clearly visible are the two mainspring barrels. 26388PO & 26288OR. This specific movement comprises 338 parts, an integrated chronograph movement which has a column wheel mechanism, a heartbeat speed of 3Hz, and a power reserve of a whopping 237 hours. Royal Oak Offshore fanatics are definitely eager to understand the prices, and we’ll update the article when we are able to confirm. Each Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 25th Anniversary version is limited to 50 pieces.

Last year Audemars Piguet Watch Gold Replica introduced the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph in luminescent colours – that same colour palette has now been applied to the time-only Royal Oak Offshore Diver.

One of a dozen new Royal Oak models to be unveiled at SIHH 2017 tomorrow, the Royal Oak Offshore Diver “Funky Colour” is available in five different colours: white, blue, yellow, orange and green. Each dial colour has dark blue accents to match.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver white

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver blue

The dials are decorated with the chequerboard Méga Tapisserie guilloche that’s standard for the Royal Oak Offshore.

Colours aside the new Offshore Diver is identical to the previous models. The steel case is 42mm in diameter and rated to 300m, with the crown at 10 o’clock to rotate the inner elapsed time bezel around the dial. And it’s powered by the calibre 3120, AP’s in-house automatic movement.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver green

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Yellow

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver orange

The Offshore Diver “Funky Colour” is delivered with two rubber straps, one to match the dial colour, and another in dark blue.

AP has yet to reveal pricing and availability, but with the earlier versions of the same retailing for US$19,000, expect this to be similarly priced.

Individual model references are as follows:

Blue – ref. 15710ST.OO.A027CA.01
White – ref. 15710ST.OO.A010CA.01
Yellow – ref. 15710ST.OO.A051CA.01
Orange – ref. 15710ST.OO.A070CA.01
Green – ref.15710ST.OO.A038CA.01


 

 

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Regardless of the svelte profile though, the gold 15202 is a very heavy watch. This tactile illusion is because, of course to the fact that gold density is almost three times that of stainless steel, giving the assertive wrist presence of a far bigger sports view to one that may otherwise slip easily under the cuff of a dress shirt. When you examine the bracelet and case when considering the weight of the gold, the slender profile but solid gold look presents a contrasted personality that works well. It is safe, but a modern design icon within an old-school material.From that the dial-side, the look and texture of the 15202 is distinctly timeless — such as a classic re-issue of the original 5402 in gold. Inside though, beats a different story. It’s an ultra-thin automatic movement measuring 3.05mm thick, and characterized by a unique 2.75Hz (19,800 vibrations per hour), though that slightly lower-than-average alternance isn’t easily visible as the 15202 does not feature a running moments hand. Contrary to the 5402 that inspired it, the 15202 gets a sapphire crystal display caseback, by which the cal. 2121’s 21-carat gold strand is visible, as it glides back and forth about the round railing conducting the circumference of this movement — one of the tricks enabling the 2121’s signature thinness.In total, the 15202 will probably be available in three variants — the newest gold options (yellow gold on champagne yellow, or yellow gold on blue) join the existing stainless steel 15202 which was re-introduced back in 2012. Though the stainless steel Extra-Thin Jumbo Royal Oak starts at approximately $22,000, people looking to ‘stay gold’ could expect to part with over double that $55,000 for its 18-carat gold variations.

Nicknamed the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph “Novelty”, the 44mm version of Audemars Piguet‘s octagonal sports chronograph was not the focus of the new Royal Oak models unveiled at SIHH 2017, but nonetheless got a facelift with new dials (while keeping everything else the same). More significantly, a new version in titanium was added – the lightweight alloy’s debut for the “Novelty”.

The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 44mm in titanium (ref. 26400IO.OO.A004CA.01) features a contrasting black ceramic bezel, and paired with a dark grey dial as well as a grey rubber strap.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty titanium 26400IO-1

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty titanium 26400IO-2

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 26400IO

The facelifted Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in pink gold (ref. 26401RO.OO.A002CA.02) now has a black dial with pink gold accents. The hands, hour markers, chapter ring as well as printed text are all in pink gold, giving the dial greater contrast compared to the earlier model, which was white on black.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 26401RO 2

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 26401RO 1

And the last of the trio is the “Novelty” in black ceramic (ref. 26405CE.OO.A002CA.02). Unlike the earlier version that had a black and silver colour scheme, the new ceramic chronograph has a black dial with pink gold accents, as well as a touch of dark blue. The hands, hour markers and dial text are pink gold, while the chronograph hands are tipped in dark blue.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 26405CE

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 26405CE-1

As before, the trio are all powered by the calibre 3126/3840, which is AP’s in-house automatic calibre topped with a chronograph module made by Dubois-Depraz.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Novelty 2017

 Price and availability 

The titanium model is priced at SFr27,500, while the black ceramic is SFr29,000. And the pink gold is SFr41,550.


 

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Three new versions are being added to the Millenary collection at SIHH following month, with smaller instances and much more sparkle than ever. The Millenary is among three groups from Audemars Piguet that include ladies’ watches, but basically, it’s by far the most female-centric of their complete collections within the brand. The Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore equally have ladies’ variations, but they started as, and therefore are known mainly as men’s collections. The jewelry sets are limited-edition one-offs, not made for everyday wear or pocketbooks. Gem-setting is a particular strength of this collection identifying the watches in the sportier Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore women’ pieces. At precisely the exact same time, a partially openworked dial gives the Millenary a specialized aspect — a reminder that it comes from one of the leading makers of mechanical motions. The Millenary, last updated in 2015, will be refreshed with three brand new versions at SIHH next month in Geneva, including two all-gold versions set with diamonds and a single gold case variant with a strap.The instance on the strap version has a “frosted gold” finish that gives it the appearance of hand-finished jewelry. Frosted gold is a collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Florentine jewelry designer Carolina Bucci, using a technique called the Florentine technique. It is made by employing a diamond-tipped tool to produce tiny indentations throughout the surface, culminating in a shimmering sparkle, like snow. The finish was released last year on the women’ Royal Oak. On the Millenary, it’s applied between polished sections on the stepped bezel and lugs, as well as to regions of the case side. The signature counter tops sub-dials that record minutes, hours, and seconds are set with a fresh dial material for this collection. Audemars Piguet additionally adds a style watch element to the strap version.

First introduced as a 50-piece, green dial limited edition for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold was added to the regular line-up at SIHH 2017. And it is as good looking and expensive as it ever was.

A modern remake of the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 of 1972, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin is a classic in steel and impressive in gold. It was originally available only in pink gold, which made it loud, but the yellow gold rendition comes across as slightly more classic. Yellow gold is after all one of the metals the Royal Oak was available in, back in the 1970s.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue dial

Available in either the classic dark blue or a newly introduced yellow gold finish, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is physically identical to its siblings in steel and pink gold. The case is 39mm wide, thin at 8.1mm high. It cuts an elegant profile on the wrist, and is weighty despite being slim.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold 4

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold 2

AP-Royal-Oak-Extra-Thin-yellow-gold-3

Because the case is essentially an agglomeration of flat surfaces, it feels somewhat angular on the wrist unlike its only peer, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which is comprised more rounded shapes.

Yellow gold is not common in high-end men’s watches, especially from haute horlogerie names, but it’s an appeal look for someone who leans towards a lavish, slightly vintage feel. But like all other gold alloys, yellow gold is soft (marginally softer than white gold in fact), leaving the lovingly finished surfaces of the watch vulnerable to marring. There is perhaps no other watch that looks as good as the Royal Oak when factory fresh and pristine – the alternating polished and brushed surfaces on the case are gorgeous.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 6

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 3

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 7

Both the blue and gilded dials have the same quintessential chequerboard tapisserie guilloche that’s a trademark of the Royal Oak. Done by hand on a rose engine – creating the telltale motif below the chequerboard – the dials are brass but fitted with solid gold hands and hour markers. Both colours are equally handsome, but the yellow gold finish has an edge in that it’s a less common colour that’s unashamedly loud while maintaining a modicum of style.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold 5

Mechanically the Royal Oak Extra-Thin is almost identical to the 1972 original, with the same calibre 2121 that was originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre as the calibre 920. A sophisticated and slim movement that’s withstood the test of time, the calibre 2121 has been slightly upgraded over the years, improving its robustness and reliability, but still lacks a quickset date – probably the singular weakness of the Royal Oak Extra-Thin.

Notably Audemars Piguet Dress Watch Replica now owns the intellectual property for the calibre 2121 and produces the movement in-house. Because its slimness makes the 2121 more challenging than a run of the mill calibre, the movement is produced at Renaud & Papi, the complications specialist owned by Audemars Piguet better known for the tourbillon movements it produces for Richard Mille.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 4

Like the calibre 2121 found in other Audemars Piguet watches, the movement inside the Extra-Thin can be customised with a personalised rotor that can be open-worked to form a variety of motifs.

Price and availability 

Available starting May 2017 at Audemars Piguet boutiques first and then at retailers, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is available with a dark blue dial (ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01) or a yellow gold dial (ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02). Both are priced at US$55,400 or S$77,700.


 

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The black satin-brushed dial is partially skeletonized to reveal the inner workings of the watch. But because they’re rather chunky, telling the timing isn’t overly hard, but legibility is not ideal. That being said, this isn’t actually a bit where the hands will be the focus. The running seconds hand for your chronograph is glowing yellow to provide contrast against the dark dial.Finally, the individual minute markers and the mark for the 30-minute chronograph at 3 o’clock are rendered in yellow and white to offer maximum contrast and legibility. The 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock is also exceptional since it displays the elapsed minutes using a retrograde indicator. And lastly, at six o’clock is that the tourbillon.The motion is where the magic all occurs. It is obviously in-house, also it’s the calibre 2937. And like all high-end chronograph movements, it has a column-wheel and lateral clutch.What’s odd about it, however, is both gongs. Rather than mounting the gongs into the motion plate, they are attached to what Audemars Piguet calls a “sound board.” Essentially, it’s a thin membrane made from a special aluminum alloy which covers the back of the movement, held in place with screws, and also forming a water-tight seal. This clarifies how the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie Tourbillon Chronograph watch can get a water-resistance rating of 20 meters, which may not seem like much to some casual observer, but that couldn’t be more incorrect. The 20 meters is actually quite impressive considering the intricate structure of the watch.

Last year Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Watch Snob Replica unveiled a slew of Royal Oak watches in yellow gold, with a notable omission, the Royal Oak Extra-Thin “Jumbo”. As the Royal Oak marks the 40th anniversary of the first yellow gold model of 1977, that has now been rectified with a pair that will make their debut at SIHH 2017.

The new Royal Oak Extra-Thin watches in 18k yellow gold join the 50-piece limited edition made for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass last year, with both the case and bracelet in yellow gold.

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” for The Hour Glass with a dark green dial

While the version for The Hour Glass had a green dial, the two new additions to the collection are in dark blue and yellow gold respectively. Both dials are finished in the traditional style of the Royal Oak, decorated with Petite Tapisserie guilloche and featuring yellow gold applied markers and hands.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Yellow Gold 3

The case diameter is 39mm, the exact same diameter as the 1977 original “Jumbo”, though the sapphire display back means the modern iteration is slightly thicker than the solid back original.

But the movement inside remains the 2121, the slim, self-winding calibre originally developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre but now made by Audemars Piguet.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Yellow Gold 1

Price and availability 

The Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold with a blue dial is the ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01, while the same with a matching yellow gold dial is the ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.02. Both are priced at US$55,400.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Yellow Gold 4


 

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While Audemars Piguet Watch Dimples In Your Necktie Replica has received quite a lot of flak in the past for what several collectors perceive as milking the Royal Oak fame a bit too much, I think the option available within the range is a superb thing. Not everyone is able to afford a tourbillon chronograph, and not everybody wants just a time-only watch. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph Openworked Material Good watch includes a bracelet of the identical substance as the instance and an extra alligator leather strap. It’s accessible at Audemars Piguet stores and the Material Good store in NY for $297,000 for the pink variation and $261,000 for the titanium version. Audemars Piguet has been producing some of the most technically interesting watches in their Royal Oak Concept collection for the last few years. Last year they showed off the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer, an exceptionally complex chronograph with three column wheels that could quantify consecutive lap times. And earlier this season, they introduced the both complex Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie Tourbillon Chronograph view, a minute repeater exemplifying Audemars Piguet’s obsession with all sound clarity and quality.Of program, it’d be unkind to show you pictures and tell you about this watch’s amazing sound without a movie to let you hear that, so do play the movie over to listen to it on your own. The minute repeater complication is frequently regarded as one of the most difficult and… well, complicated to make – so imagine how difficult it’s to create one from scratch. The next thing to keep in mind is that Audemars Piguet didn’t just wish to create a new minute repeater see, they desired to create one which would be the very best.

Three years ago Audemars Piguet gave its bestselling sports chronograph a major overhaul with an in-house movement as well as ceramic buttons and crown. Now a quartet of new models unveiled at SIHH 2017 joins the second generation Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph line-up, including a heavyweight version with a platinum case and bracelet.

The basic models are in stainless steel, starting with the blue on black (ref. 26470ST.OO.A028CR.01). This has a black dial with dark blue chronograph registers, matched with a dark blue chapter ring and alligator strap.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 26470ST-OO-A028CR

The other steel model has a brown dial (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01) fitted with pink gold hands.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 26470ST

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 2017 steel

Then there’s the 18k yellow gold that has a blue dial and gilt sub-dials (ref. 26470BA.OO.1000BA.01) that’s anything but subtle. This is delivered on a matching 18k gold bracelet, but accompanied by a spare alligator strap and 18k gold pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore pink gold and platinum

The top of the line version is the all-platinum (ref. 26470PT.OO.1000PT.01) that marks the return of the model to the catalogue after a hiatus of several years. Impractically but impressively heavy – it tips the scales at over a pound or half a kilo – the platinum Offshore is a limited edition of 50 pieces with a pale grey dial and black sub-dials. Like the yellow gold model, it’s accompanied by a spare alligator strap with a platinum pin buckle.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore platinum 26470PT 1

All four models share the same specs, with a 42mm case featuring a sapphire case back that reveals the calibre 3126/3840 inside.

Price and availability 

The new Offshore Chronographs are available from Audemars Piguet retailers and boutiques, with Swiss francs priced excluding taxes as follows.

Steel and black ref. 26470ST.OO.A028CR.01 – SFr23,500

Steel and brown ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01 – SFr24,000

18k yellow gold ref. 26470BA.OO.1000BA.01 – SFr78,000

950 platinum ref. 26470PT.OO.1000PT.01 – SFr122,000


 

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What is left of the “dial” is basically a satin-brushed, ruthenium-toned ring around the edge and the two anthracite sub-dials. There is a rehaut printed using a minute chapter ring too. In my experience, legibility isn’t the strongest suit to get a skeletonized watch, but that is less of a problem in the case of the watch. The use of pink gold applied hour markers and pink golden baton-shaped hands, both full of lume, should offer sufficient legibility in most lighting conditions. The “Audemars Piguet” logo is printed on the surface of the sapphire crystal on the front, and this gives it a pleasant floating effect.The sub-dials are easy with white printed text and white baton-shaped hands. The sub-dial in 3:00 indicates chronograph minutes and also the one at 9:00 shows constant seconds. 1 potential issue with legibility must do with the chronograph seconds hand, which can be black with a lumed white hint. Between how thin the hand is and also the color, studying the chronograph elapsed time may be more cumbersome than individuals may like. It is not easy to say for sure until we get our hands on a tangible example of the watch.I’ve left the situation and bracelet description to the past because these are a few of the most recognizable areas of the watch. This is the same Gerald Genta design that’s popular among several collectors however with 44mm by 13.2mm case measurements. This is a somewhat large watch with a broad bezel on both the front and back. Each of the right lines and sharp angles also give it a bigger look. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tourbillon Chronograph can be obtained in two case substances — titanium and rose gold. There will be the obvious visual differences in the two materials but what I find more intriguing is that titanium is generally a light material with high tensile strength, while gold is a dense but soft material. What this signifies is that the experience of wearing each variant should be significantly different, and that I personally find this interesting.

Audemars Piguet prudently relied almost entirely on the Royal Oak for its SIHH 2017 line-up, which was well received despite the design being well know, proving the power of the octagonal watch.

[NB: All prices are in Swiss francs, before taxes and provisional, being subject to change.]

The headliner of the collection was the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ceramic, announced just before the fair. It is exactly what the name implies, the Royal Oak perpetual in black ceramic.

What makes it novel is the ceramic bracelet, which is a first for AP. The rest of the watch – 41mm size, calibre 5134 movement and design – is identical to the standard model.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic 01

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic 03

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic 04

There’s a lot of black ceramic on this watch, and it is beautifully finished. AP arguably does the best surface finishing for ceramic in watchmaking, being able to give it a lustre and texture similar to metal.

Both the bracelet and case have the alternating brushed and mirror surfaces that characterise the Royal Oak (though the grain of the matte finish is distinct from that of metal), giving the watch a gleaming, urbane look.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic 02

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic 05

But because ceramic is a pale black, rather than deep and dense colour, and also remains glossy even when it is matte finished, the watch is quite shiny. As the saying goes you can’t have too much of a good thing, but there is a lot of black ceramic in this.

Priced at SFr85,000 or about US$85,000, the ceramic perpetual costs less than the gold version (about US$95,000) but a lot more than the steel (US$60,000 or so). The premium is attributable to the difficulty of polishing ceramic – the case and bracelet takes six time as long to finish as the steel model.


Another existing model in new livery is the Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm. This has been facelifted with two-tone dials, enlarged chronograph registers, as well as more legible markers and hands. Several models are available in both pink gold and stainless steel, but the most compelling is the boutique-only titanium and platinum version.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Titanium Platinum 1

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Titanium Platinum 3

With a blue and grey dial that is reminiscent of the first ever Royal Oak Offshore in titanium, the new chronograph offers another appealing throwback with the bi-metal case.

Both the bezel and centre links of the bracelet are polished platinum (AP always gives platinum a polished surface on bi-metal watches), while the rest is brushed titanium. Perhaps because of the platinum bits, or maybe just its psychological effect, this feels heavier than a titanium watch would.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Titanium Platinum 2

The movement inside the restyled Royal Oak Chronograph is the Frederic Piguet calibre 1185, a movement that was designed 30 years ago. It’s slim, small and sophisticated, but well, 30 years old, proving beyond doubt that the any design as iconic as the Royal Oak is all about aesthetics.

The Royal Oak Chronograph starts at SFr21,930 in stainless steel, rising to  SFr34,650 for the pink gold on strap, and SFr51,240 for the pink gold on bracelet. And the titanium and platinum version is SFr37,000.


The Royal Oak Extra-Thin in yellow gold is another historical reboot. Originally available only in steel or pink gold, the Royal Oak “Jumbo”, as it is sometimes known, was also made in a 50-piece run in yellow gold with a dark green dial for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue dial

Now yellow gold has joined the regular collection, matched with either a dark blue blue or matching yellow gold dial. Both look good – being essentially a remake of the original 1972 Royal Oak, the “Jumbo” is a classic in a league of its own – and the champagne dial in particular harks back to the early models giving it a satisfying retro style.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold 1

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold 2

The watch is hefty and gorgeously finished, with endless brushed and polished surfaces that make it feel a bit precious, like all gold Royal Oaks.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 3

Everything else about the watch is identical to the existing versions, including the 39mm case and calibre 2121 inside.

AP Royal Oak Extra Thin yellow gold blue 4

These cost SFr50,130 in either colour.


The Royal Oak Offshore Diver “Funky Colour” takes after the Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph unveiled at SIHH last year. It’s essentially a range of Offshore Divers in candy colours of white, blue, yellow, orange and green.

AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver white 1

AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver white 2

Hefty and solid in the hand, the colours are appealing in a fun sort of way, but at the expense of the seriousness of the watch.

These are all spec’ed the same as the basic models: 42mm steel case with inner rotating bezel and a see-through back showing the calibre 3120 inside. What is different, besides the main dial colour, is the dark blue (instead of the usual black) accents on the dial, bezel and rubber coverings for the crowns.

And all of them have glow in the dark Super-Luminova on the hands and hour markers, save for the white dial model.

AP Royal Oak Offshore Diver green 1

The new Offshore Diver is part of the regular collection, and not a limited edition like the chronograph. Both the green and white are available only at AP boutiques, while the others will also be offered by retailers.

They are priced at SFr17,190 each.


Previewed well before SIHH, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is a ladies’ watch that’s a striking reinterpretation of the classic design. While the size and even shape of the Royal Oak has varied over the years, it has always been consistently finished with brushed and polished surfaces.

The Frosted Gold appropriates a technique from Florentine jewellery to create a grained surface. A diamond-tipped tool is used to create a dimpled surface that catches the light nicely, leaving the case a notable sparkle.

AP Royal Oak Frosted Gold pink gold 1

AP Royal Oak Frosted Gold pink gold 2

The frosted surface, however, is not as fine as that shown in the stock images. In the flesh the dimpling is more pronounced, and presumably more durable. Refinishing such a surface must be well nigh impossible.

AP Royal Oak Frosted Gold white gold 1

AP Royal Oak Frosted Gold white gold 2

Available only in pink or white gold, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is offered in two sizes. The larger 37mm has the automatic calibre 3120 inside and costs SFr51,500 in white gold and SFr46,500 in pink gold.

The smaller 33mm model is quartz, priced at SFr42,500 in white gold and SFr37,500 in pink gold.


And the highlight of the line-up that is not a Royal Oak is the Diamond Outrage. A follow-up to last year’s punky Diamond Fury, the Diamond Outrage is all spikes and lives up to its name.

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage 1

Audemars Piguet Diamond Outrage 2

With only two unique examples made – one set entirely with diamonds and the other a mix of diamonds and sapphires – the Diamond Outrage is covered in spikes of varying lengths, ranging from 29.30mm 40.0mm.

Essentially an intricately hand-made, jewelled bangle with a tiny quartz movement inside, the Diamond Outrage is not something for the faint hearted but impressively bold. It’s priced at just over SFr1m.


 

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Now, the “best” for Audemars Piguet signifies their attempting to make the most clear and crisp sound of any moment repeater. The brand points to three achievements demonstrated within this watch, which I shall briefly run through. First, the special preparation of the steel used to produce the gong arrangement allows the watchmakers to more accurately and easily correct and hone the pitch, tone, and stability of the minute repeater. Second, the way the case is built reduces sound absorption and maximizes amplification. I’ll examine this “soundboard” procedure more a little bit later on. Finally, the striking regulator is redesigned so that the anchor system acts as a shock absorber, minimizing shock noise.One of the most important components of a minute repeater watch is that the situation since it is responsible for broadening the sound. It’s often said that gold would be the ideal material for the task because it generates a richer sound, but the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie Tourbillon Chronograph watch opts for titanium. Titanium is a very light and strong alloy, and its low density enables sound to pass through with less resistance. In case you have any questions about that, you only have to check at exotic supercars and their titanium exhausts. Titanium is also used elsewhere round the watch to improve the quality of the noise, but more with this later.The use of titanium also means that despite the watch’s sizable measurements, at 44mm wide and 16.5mm thick, it still stays light and comfortable to wear. And thanks to its unique aesthetic, the situation design immediately identifies the opinion as a Royal Oak Concept and nothing else.It goes without saying that the instance is completed to an impeccably high standard with contrasting finishing. The bezel has mirror polished edges and features a satin-brushed finish on the surface, which matches the exposed polished 18k white gold twist heads. The case was sandblasted and has a matte finish that juxtaposes very well with the more slender bezel. The large crown and chronograph pushers have been made from ceramic.

Five years after its launch, the Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm has been restyled for SIHH 2017. Audemars Piguet kept the fundamentals the same, applying some minor tweaks to the dial to give it a sportier look (compare it with the earlier version).

All the new Royal Oak Chronograph variants feature two-tone dials, with the sub-dials in contrasting colours. Another obvious change are the enlarged registers for elapsed minute and hours, while that for the constant seconds has been reduced. This improves legibility somewhat, since elapsed time has to be read, while the sub-seconds is merely a reminder that the watch is running.

RO_26331OR-OO-D315CR-01_2_closeup_Original

To the same end, the hour markers are now wider and shorter, with a broader strip of Super-Luminova for increased nighttime glow; the same has been done for the hands as well (the counterweight of the seconds hand now has luminescent paint as well).

All the Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm models are equipped with the calibre 2385, which is actually the Frederic Piguet 1185, a compact and slim automatic movement.

RO_26331OR-OO-D821CR-01_SDT_Original_001

The new range includes four models in pink gold, in either blue or brown, accompanied by either an alligator strap or matching gold bracelet, as well as three in stainless steel with black, white or blue dials.

All in stainless steel, except the bottom right in titanium and platinum

Ti and Pt

And most intriguing, the line-up also includes the Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in titanium and platinum (ref. 26331IP.OO.1220IP.01).

This unusual, boutique-only model has most of the case and bracelet in brushed titanium, with the bezel and centre links of the bracelet in polished platinum for a striking contrast of surface finishes.

And the dial is grey with the sub-dials and minute chapter ring in dark blue, the same combination of colours found on the first generation Royal Oak Offshore in titanium.

The version in titanium and platinum

Pricing and availability have yet to be announced.


 

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Now, the “best” for Audemars Piguet signifies their striving to make the very crisp and clear sound of any minute repeater. The brand points to three accomplishments demonstrated within this particular watch, which I shall briefly run through. To begin with, the special preparation of the steel used to produce the gong arrangement allows the watchmakers to more accurately and easily correct and enhance the pitch, tone, and stability of this second repeater. Second, the method by which the situation is constructed reduces sound absorption and maximizes amplification. I will examine this “soundboard” procedure a bit later on. Last, the striking regulator is redesigned so the anchor system behaves like a shock absorber, minimizing shock noise.One of the most important components of a minute repeater watch is the situation since it is responsible for broadening the sound. Titanium is a very light and strong alloy, and its low density enables sound to pass through with less resistance. If you have any questions about this, you just need to check at exotic supercars and their titanium exhausts. Titanium is also used elsewhere around the watch to enhance the quality of the noise, but more with this later.The use of titanium also means that despite the watch’s sizable measurements, at 44mm wide and 16.5mm thick, it still stays light and comfy to wear. And due to its unique aesthetic, the case design immediately identifies the opinion as a Royal Oak Concept and nothing else.It goes without mentioning that the instance is finished to an impeccably high standard with contrasting finishing. The bezel has mirror polished borders and includes a satin-brushed finish on the top, which complements the exposed polished 18k white gold twist heads. The case was sandblasted and features a matte finish which juxtaposes quite well with the more slender bezel. The large crown and chronograph pushers are made from ceramic.

Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Frosted Gold last year to commemorate the 40th anniversary of the first ladies’ Royal Oak, yet the watch garnered significant attention from a male audience despite being aimed squarely at women. In fact, at SIHH earlier this year, AP boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias was wearing a prototype men’s Royal Oak ref. 15400 with the same frosted gold finish. As anticipated, the prototype has made it into production – in a limited edition, no less.

That “frosted” decoration is the result of a collaboration between the Le Brassus watchmaker and Florentine jeweller Carolina Bucci, whose signature technique involves hammering gold with a diamond-tipped tool to create minute indentations on the surface. The result is a fine, tactile and sparkly finish – a decidedly modern approach that mimics the look of gem-encrustation without the jewels.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold 41mm 2

Understandably, applying this jewellery technique to the angular lines of the Gérald Genta-design came with its challenges. The team had to ensure that the finishing would neither alter the clean lines of the hallmark octagonal bezel nor the fluidity of the bracelet. Consequently, the finishing has to be applied by hand to individual components one at a time. In effect, this hand-finishing technique ensures that each watch is different.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold 41mm

The Frosted Gold watches were originally only available in 33m and 37mm versions for ladies, which were equipped with a quartz calibre and the automatic cal. 3120 respectively. Now the 41mm Frosted Gold for men is powered by the in-house cal. 3120 automatic. It is available only in white gold with a blue “Grande Tapisserie” dial.

Price and Availability

The Royal Oak Frosted Gold for men (ref. 15410BC.GG.1224BC.01) is a limited edition of 200 pieces, and is priced at US$55,000.


 

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The answer to that question is simple: everyone. What I mean with this is that there are two very distinct groups of luxury watch purchasers: the collector and the basic “watch fan.” The collector is the man who spent the past 15 years residing on TimeZone along with also the PuristS, the kind of man who hears the title Walt Odets and understands exactly who I’m talking about. The collector is the type of man who understands the distinction between hand polished and handmade. He’s gotten well past the point of arguing about brands and knows enough to discuss individual projects. He reveres Patek Philippe for exactly what it meant to watches within the last 100 decades, understands the importance and appeal of vintage Rolex, but purchases just what talks to him. A watch lover, on the other hand, is someone who may be a little newer to high-end watches, and is still very brand conscious. Both purchase watches from Audemars Piguet, but likely different models, and certainly for different reasons.Let’s start with the collector. The collector buys Audemars Piguet Watches Used Replica due to its own history in great complicated pocketwatches. The collector buys AP because when Patek Philippe needed some assistance on the complex repeater of this Henry Graves Jr.. Supercomplication, it turned out to AP. The collector buys AP due to watches like this, this, and this.

Historically a favourite complication of Audemars Piguet, the perpetual calendar was the centrepiece of the brand’s SIHH 2018 line-up with the Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar, now the world’s thinnest.

Just 6.3mm high (in the Royal Oak case at that; perhaps slimmer in a round, knife edge case), with the movement thickness 2.89mm, the Royal Oak RD#2 is the slimmest perpetual calendar on the market by quite some margin.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual 4

Most slim perpetual calendar watches hover around the 8mm mark, case and all. The Vacheron Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar is 8.1mm, while the Patek Philippe ref. 5940 is 8.48mm.

AP’s representatives repeated several times the cal. 5133 inside the RD#2 was akin to turning a three-storey house into a single floor, though technical specifics were short.

Rather than a revamp of the fundamentals of the perpetual calendar, the movement’s constructors slimmed and simplified each part of the movement, while laying out the calendar display in the most mechanically concise manner possible. The cal. 5133 is made up of 256 parts, compared to 374 parts in AP’s cal. 5134, or the 275 in Patek Philippe’s cal. 240Q.

That also means some of the calendar mechanism is spread out, rather than stacked up, explaining the relatively large 32mm, or 14 3/4 lignes, diameter of the movement. That’s quite a bit larger than the conventionally constructed and thicker AP cal. 5134 that’s 29mm, or 12 3/4 lignes, wide.

The automatic base of the cal. 5133 is derived from the cal. 2120, the longstanding thin movement found in the Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Highly regarded as a sophisticated construction that has remained in production for over 50 years, the movement was originally the Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920 and also supplied to Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. One of the most distinctive features taken from the cal. 2120 is the support ring for the rotor to minimise wobbling and stress on the short pivot.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual 2

Like the cal. 2120, the cal. 5133 also minimises the components needed on the dial-side of the movement, utilising a hanging barrel for instance. That means the dial also serves as a main plate of sorts, helping to secure the parts in place.

Despite the significant technical advances inside the watch, the outside looks and feels very much like a classic Royal Oak, meaning it’s angular, refined and sharply finished. It is a departure from the aggressively styling of AP’s other concept watches, the Royal Oak Supersonnerie and Laptimer Michael Schumacher.

AP Royal Oak #RD2 perpetual calendar 2

The case is 41mm in diameter, but hefty despite being slim, due to the platinum case and bracelet. And though it’s almost a quarter thinner than the ordinary Royal Oak perpetual calendar, the decrease in height is not dramatically obvious on the wrist, perhaps because the watch was already thin to start with.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual 3

The dial is typical Royal Oak, dark blue with a chequerboard tapisserie guilloche. A casual observer would be hard pressed to distinguish between the RD#2 and an ordinary perpetual, though the differences are obvious, most prominently with the raised position of the sub-dials at three and nine.

AP Royal Oak #RD2 perpetual calendar 3

AP Royal Oak #RD2 perpetual calendar 1

Price and availability

The Royal Oak RD#2 Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26586PT.OO.1240PT.01) is still a concept watch, with pricing and availability yet to be announced.


 

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Today, watches such as the Royal Oak perpetual calendar skeleton (a benchmark in AP’s collection and among the best perpetuals on the current market, in my estimation), the Royal Oak Equation of Time, the revolutionary Chron-AP, and this Millenary Minute Repeater prove that AP is certainly a top-tier manufacture. AP’s in-house self-winding caliber 3120, located inside the fundamental Royal Oak 15400, can also be one of the finest base movements on earth. All these are the things that keep AP pertinent to “real” watch lovers that sometimes get lost in the buzz around the other kinds of AP buyers.And then there is your typical well-to-do watch buyer. To mepersonally, the best analogy for this other kind of AP purchaser is advised via a singular scene in one episode of a single television series that was popular for a period of time some years back. I’m speaking about Entourage, and I bet the great majority of you understand exactly to which scene I am referring.Ari Gold receives a good gold Royal Oak chronograph (not as the watch I’ll review down below) by his then-soon-to-be boss, who explains it as “One of the best watches in the world.” The camera then pans to the solid gold watch in its box, and Ari is in disbelief about the gift — and thus, AP is introduced to a whole group of potential new customers, the men who see Entourage. From this moment on, you see a number of the characters on the show wearing APs. Many at the time believed Audemars Piguet Watches Vintage Replica had paid for the positioning, but in discussions with AP over time, it was disclosed to me not just one dollar was exchanged. Rather, a particular manufacturer on the show was a massive AP client, and insisted it be a Royal Oak presented to Ari. Entourage did a lot for AP, but it was not this 1 positioning that defines the “other” type of AP customer. It does give you a good idea of where AP is a favorite, and that is in Hollywood, music, and sports, with the youthful and moneyed.

In a striking departure from the original design, Audemars Piguet just unveiled the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, in an aggressive restyling for the 25th anniversary of its iconic oversized sports watch. Excepting the Royal Oak Concept of 2002, the 25th anniversary Offshore is arguably the most radical reimagining of the octagonal design to date.

Slated to mark its birthday next year, the Royal Oak Offshore was introduced in 1993, itself a commemorative model meant to mark the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak. Designed by a Emmanuel Gueit, now an independent designer whose greatest triumph was the Offshore, the watch was a beefed up, 42mm version of the slim, original Royal Oak, making it almost abnormally large for the era. While it was met with criticism from the industry – Royal Oak designer Gerald Genta reputedly disliked it – the Offshore grew to become one of the most influential watches in contemporary watchmaking, surpassing the Royal Oak in pop cultural significance.

In the early to mid 2000s the Offshore was arguably the hottest watch of the era, acquiring a cult status among celebrities and athletes, especially in the United States, with over 120 iterations and special limited editions, including versions dedicated to Jay-Z, Arnold Schwarzenegger and LeBron James.

AP Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph

The Offshore undergone slight tweaks over the years – once in 2006 and again in 2014 – but never to the extent undertaken with the new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph. Slated for an official launch at SIHH 2018, it is both edgy and open-worked, gaining a menacing profile thanks to an entirely redesigned dial, movement and bezel.

While the complications and movement are based on an existing model (the refs. 26388PO & 26288OR), the anniversary model is defined by a new bezel. The famous octagonal bezel was slimmed down and hollowed out around the exposed screw heads (which are actually nuts as Royal Oak fans will know). In turn, the dial has been reduced to a series of eight skeletonised bridges that are secured by the eight nuts. Four of the largest bridges secure each of the twin barrels, as well as the tourbillon.

Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 3

AP Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 4

While the case has retained its signature style, subtle changes have given it a more athletic profile. The bevels on the flanks of the lugs are wider and more pronounced, for instance. It measures 45mm in diameter, and is available in both stainless steel and pink gold.

And as with the second generation Offshore chronograph, the crown and pushpieces are now in black ceramic instead of rubber-coated metal. On the steel model the pushpiece guards are titanium, while while the gold version they are in pink gold.

Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph 2

While the cal. 2947 movement inside is new, it is a variant of the existing cal. 2933. It is hand-wound, with both an integrated column wheel chronograph and tourbillon regulator, as well as double barrels that offer a seven-day power reserve.

Price and Availability

Limited to 50 pieces each, Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in stainless steel (ref. 26421ST.OO.A002CA.01) is priced at SFr275,000 and the pink gold (ref. 26421OR.OO.A002CA.01) at SFr310,000; prices exclude taxes.