It’s still post-SIHH 2016 fever here at aBlogtoWatch, and we are beginning the first of February’s two round-ups with a continuation of new watches that we saw at SIHH earlier last month. We begin with Greubel Forsey’s magnificent Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant watch, a breathtaking piece with two balance wheels and an intricate differential system. Next, we take a look at Audemars Piguet’s very colorful and loud new Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronographs as well as one of the most important watches at the show, Parmigiani’s Senfine concept watch, which features the groundbreaking Genequand escapement system.
New watches aside, we also discuss the importance and relevance of in-house movements. Just how vital are they and should it affect your watch purchasing decision? We’ll leave the final decision up to you, but there are some great points on both sides which we debate. Finally, we check in with Zenith CEO Aldo Magada to talk about the significance of the brand’s El Primero movement and branding, and also to find out more about the brand’s plans for these challenging times.
1. Greubel Forsey Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant Watch Hands-On
Greubel Forsey is known for two things: tourbillons and an extreme attention to the craft of hand-finishing. However, 2016 will probably be one of the few times where tourbillons took a back seat at Greubel Forsey. After the simple but magnificent Signature 1, the other new watch from Greubel Forsey this year is the Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant. As you can probably tell from its name, this watch has two balance wheels inclined at 30 degrees and regulated by an exquisitely constructed differential. The aim of all of this is better timekeeping. But as you can also see from the photo, the watch looks absolutely mega. See more of this watch by hitting the link below.
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph Watches Hands-On
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is widely regarded as being the Royal Oak’s louder, brasher, and more colorful sibling. And for 2016, Audemars Piguet is taking that thought to the next level by introducing the very colorful Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph. It can be thought of as the Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch with the added chronograph complication, and one of the cool things about it is that it is being offered in four colors. There’s orange, lime green, yellow, and blue. And regardless of some reactions, we think these new watches will prove themselves to be very popular, especially among younger watch lovers.
3. Point/Counterpoint: Is An In-House Movement In A Watch That Important?
There’s been an increased emphasis on in-house movements over the past couple of years. Ever since ETA’s decision to cut supplies to brands outside of the Swatch Group, more and more brands are coming up with their own movements, and that’s generally a good thing because we are seeing some genuine innovations on that front. But on the other hand, there’s also the prevailing thought that in-house movements are being used by brands to justify their higher costs, and that in-house movements are also not necessarily better than tried and tested movements like the ETA 2824. Here, we discuss the merits and disadvantages of in-house movements, and wonder if they are really all that important.
4. Parmigiani Senfine Concept Watch Realizes The Genequand System For Exciting New Mechanical Oscillator
One of the most exciting developments in watchmaking is the Genequand system. This is a new escapement system that uses silicon to dramatically improve timekeeping. According to its inventor, Pierre Genequand, this system will allow the balance wheel to beat at a staggering 86,400bph and will offer as much as 30 to 45 days of power reserve. And at SIHH 2016 earlier this year, Parmigiani finally unveiled the Senfine concept watch that puts the Genequand system into a wristwatch. If all goes well, this watch could possibly be put into production in the next couple of years.
5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon Watch Hands-On
I’ve not talked about how 108,000 bph sounds yet. You can certainly hear it. The various pieces of the Aeronith-cased Defy Lab I had evaluated sounded just a little bit different. That tells me that as more watches have higher-frequency movements, more attention will need to be paid to case materials because of how sound waves leak out. Even minor differences in the cases (given the structure of foamy aluminum) changed the sound profiles from the 15Hz movements. It is a pleasant sound, but fast paced given its manic rapidity. The watch is also comfortable on the wrist – and looking at the dial with its ever-vibrating Zenith Oscillator offers a fun animation to watch when you want something to distract your eyes.Upcoming models of the Zenith Defy Lab will maintain the same 44mm wide, 14.5mm thick case (water resistant to 50m), but I don’t think they will be in Aeronith. They will also cost much less than these more exclusive pieces. The watch community will be impressed with the relatively reasonable price, which I believe will be around 10,000 Swiss Francs. It is a cost that no longer requires watch lovers to consider between a new timepiece and a new car. The watch also allows watch addicts to have new conversations about accuracy and the performance of watch movements as being something worth caring about. For years mechanical watch lovers more or less convinced themselves that thinking about accuracy was sort of silly because your standard cheap quartz watch will most always best even an expensive mechanical watch when it comes to accuracy.
Sometimes, the greatest achievement simply lies in making something good even better. That’s certainly the case for the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This isn’t the first time that we have seen Jaeger-LeCoultre’s gyrotourbillon in a Reverso case, but the newest iteration is a lot more wearable. The reason being that the watchmaking geniuses at La Grande Maison have managed to shave many millimeters from the dimensions of the original Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. In fact, the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon measures just 12.4mm thick – roughly the same as a Rolex Submariner – as compared to the whopping 16mm of the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. That’s seriously impressive for a watch with a multi-axis spinning tourbillon.
6. Oris Divers Sixty Five Watch Review
There seems to be a lot of nostalgia going on, not just in the watch world. Just look at new cameras from Olympus and Fujifilm, they are all designed to look like cameras from the past. This trend is still going well and strong in the world of watches, and after seeing the Oris Divers Sixty Five watch at Baselworld last year, we now bring you a full in-depth review. Based on a vintage Oris dive watch from the Sixties, the Divers Sixty Five watch was undoubtedly one of the standout watches from last year’s Baselworld fair. The design, though clearly vintage inspired, is well balanced and is done tastefully. Coupled with its accessible price tag, is it any wonder that it is so popular and sought after?
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