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BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

It’s still post-SIHH 2016 fever here at aBlogtoWatch, and we are beginning the first of February’s two round-ups with a continuation of new watches that we saw at SIHH earlier last month. We begin with Greubel Forsey’s magnificent Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant watch, a breathtaking piece with two balance wheels and an intricate differential system. Next, we take a look at Audemars Piguet’s very colorful and loud new Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronographs as well as one of the most important watches at the show, Parmigiani’s Senfine concept watch, which features the groundbreaking Genequand escapement system.

New watches aside, we also discuss the importance and relevance of in-house movements. Just how vital are they and should it affect your watch purchasing decision? We’ll leave the final decision up to you, but there are some great points on both sides which we debate. Finally, we check in with Zenith CEO Aldo Magada to talk about the significance of the brand’s El Primero movement and branding, and also to find out more about the brand’s plans for these challenging times.

1. Greubel Forsey Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

Greubel Forsey is known for two things: tourbillons and an extreme attention to the craft of hand-finishing. However, 2016 will probably be one of the few times where tourbillons took a back seat at Greubel Forsey. After the simple but magnificent Signature 1, the other new watch from Greubel Forsey this year is the Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant. As you can probably tell from its name, this watch has two balance wheels inclined at 30 degrees and regulated by an exquisitely constructed differential. The aim of all of this is better timekeeping. But as you can also see from the photo, the watch looks absolutely mega. See more of this watch by hitting the link below.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph Watches Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is widely regarded as being the Royal Oak’s louder, brasher, and more colorful sibling. And for 2016, Audemars Piguet is taking that thought to the next level by introducing the very colorful Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph. It can be thought of as the Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch with the added chronograph complication, and one of the cool things about it is that it is being offered in four colors. There’s orange, lime green, yellow, and blue. And regardless of some reactions, we think these new watches will prove themselves to be very popular, especially among younger watch lovers.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Point/Counterpoint: Is An In-House Movement In A Watch That Important?

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

There’s been an increased emphasis on in-house movements over the past couple of years. Ever since ETA’s decision to cut supplies to brands outside of the Swatch Group, more and more brands are coming up with their own movements, and that’s generally a good thing because we are seeing some genuine innovations on that front. But on the other hand, there’s also the prevailing thought that in-house movements are being used by brands to justify their higher costs, and that in-house movements are also not necessarily better than tried and tested movements like the ETA 2824. Here, we discuss the merits and disadvantages of in-house movements, and wonder if they are really all that important.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Parmigiani Senfine Concept Watch Realizes The Genequand System For Exciting New Mechanical Oscillator

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

One of the most exciting developments in watchmaking is the Genequand system. This is a new escapement system that uses silicon to dramatically improve timekeeping. According to its inventor, Pierre Genequand, this system will allow the balance wheel to beat at a staggering 86,400bph and will offer as much as 30 to 45 days of power reserve. And at SIHH 2016 earlier this year, Parmigiani finally unveiled the Senfine concept watch that puts the Genequand system into a wristwatch. If all goes well, this watch could possibly be put into production in the next couple of years.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

I’ve not talked about how 108,000 bph sounds yet. You can certainly hear it. The various pieces of the Aeronith-cased Defy Lab I had evaluated sounded just a little bit different. That tells me that as more watches have higher-frequency movements, more attention will need to be paid to case materials because of how sound waves leak out. Even minor differences in the cases (given the structure of foamy aluminum) changed the sound profiles from the 15Hz movements. It is a pleasant sound, but fast paced given its manic rapidity. The watch is also comfortable on the wrist – and looking at the dial with its ever-vibrating Zenith Oscillator offers a fun animation to watch when you want something to distract your eyes.Upcoming models of the Zenith Defy Lab will maintain the same 44mm wide, 14.5mm thick case (water resistant to 50m), but I don’t think they will be in Aeronith. They will also cost much less than these more exclusive pieces. The watch community will be impressed with the relatively reasonable price, which I believe will be around 10,000 Swiss Francs. It is a cost that no longer requires watch lovers to consider between a new timepiece and a new car. The watch also allows watch addicts to have new conversations about accuracy and the performance of watch movements as being something worth caring about. For years mechanical watch lovers more or less convinced themselves that thinking about accuracy was sort of silly because your standard cheap quartz watch will most always best even an expensive mechanical watch when it comes to accuracy.

Sometimes, the greatest achievement simply lies in making something good even better. That’s certainly the case for the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This isn’t the first time that we have seen Jaeger-LeCoultre’s gyrotourbillon in a Reverso case, but the newest iteration is a lot more wearable. The reason being that the watchmaking geniuses at La Grande Maison have managed to shave many millimeters from the dimensions of the original Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. In fact, the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon measures just 12.4mm thick – roughly the same as a Rolex Submariner – as compared to the whopping 16mm of the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. That’s seriously impressive for a watch with a multi-axis spinning tourbillon.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

6. Oris Divers Sixty Five Watch Review

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

There seems to be a lot of nostalgia going on, not just in the watch world. Just look at new cameras from Olympus and Fujifilm, they are all designed to look like cameras from the past. This trend is still going well and strong in the world of watches, and after seeing the Oris Divers Sixty Five watch at Baselworld last year, we now bring you a full in-depth review. Based on a vintage Oris dive watch from the Sixties, the Divers Sixty Five watch was undoubtedly one of the standout watches from last year’s Baselworld fair. The design, though clearly vintage inspired, is well balanced and is done tastefully. Coupled with its accessible price tag, is it any wonder that it is so popular and sought after?

Source: aBlogtoWatch

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Zenith Watches Event @ Topper In Burlingame, CA, December 4, 2015 Shows & Events

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We at Topper Fine Jewelers are very excited to host one of Zenith’s watchmakers in-store on Friday afternoon, December 4th in Burlingame, California. It will provide a great opportunity to learn more about the famous El Primero movement, as their watchmaker performs assembly and disassembly of an El Primero caliber in the store. So that our guests can appreciate her work, we will project the process up on a big screen as she narrates. That’s not all…

We also invite aBlogtoWatch readers to join us and visit the store in Burlingame, California between between 1:00 – 5:30 PM.  It will also be an opportunity to see new Zenith watches worth it Replica novelties, such as the Zenith 6150 with 100-hour power reserve, Elite Chronograph Classic, and the Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze. This Bronze Pilot watch was one of Ariel’s 10 best watches from Baselworld this year. We will be giving away Zenith-related prizes, and offering a Hennessey gift set with the purchase of a Zenith Watch. We hope to see you there!

The “Celebrate Zenith Watches at Topper Fine Jewelers” event will take place on Friday December 4th, 2015 from 1:00pm – 5:30pm at the Topper Fine Jewelers store located at 1315 Burlingame Ave, Burlingame, CA 94010. topperjewelers.com

For those who cannot attend, but find the subject interesting, we will do a livestream at 3PM PST on December 4th, that you can access here.

Sponsored Posts are a form of advertising that allows sponsors to share useful news, messages, and offers to aBlogtoWatch readers in a way traditional display advertising is often not best suited to. All Sponsored Posts are subject to editorial guidelines with the intent that they offer readers useful news, promotions, or stories. The viewpoints and opinions expressed in Sponsored Posts are those of the advertiser and not necessarily those of aBlogtoWatch or its writers. 

With that said, I am among a large population of mechanical watch lovers who do care about accuracy. That there is still development in the traditional watch industry to make systems that actually pioneer new achievements in accuracy will be something that pretty much any watch collector can stand behind. I know that not everyone will be a fan of the aesthetic design of the Defy Lab, or the Defy El Primero 21 for that matter, but I think they will want the technology for sure. Zenith and LVMH now take a leading role in the pursuit of accuracy, how will the others respond? Attached to the case of the Defy Lab is a rubber strap with an alligator exterior lining and a titanium buckle. Price for the 10 piece unique Zenith Defy Lab reference 27.9000.342/78.R582 is 29,900 CHF each.

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Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

This very high-end limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette is the type of watch I’d want to own but not to wear. That isn’t a terribly odd thing to say, given the 60mm wide case that is arguably better looking mounted on a table or shelf in some manner, rather than looking quite literally over-sized on your wrist. That, nevertheless, is the point of the ongoing limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 watches that each use vintage Zenith-made caliber 5011K “competition” movements from the 1960s – which is to be super bold 60mm-wide watches with interesting movements inside. So how did the Zenith Pilot Type 20 turn into an art piece?

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I suppose it didn’t take long before someone at Zenith decided that skeletonizing the 5011K movement was a good idea. As I’ve said before when discussing Zenith watches with the 5011K movement, Zenith has claimed that it “discovered” a stock of old 1960s-era 5011K movements that it has restored and put into some limited edition watches. What I am not clear on is whether Zenith is producing new versions of the 5011K based on its original architecture or if they quite literally have enough to go around for these and future limited editions, as well as for spare parts and repairs.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On
Zenith has always held a special place for me. From a fairly young age, not long after high school, the brand occupied an elite status in my mind. More specifically, it was and remains in my top two favorite brands of all-time, the other being Grand Seiko. In my mind, they offered two intriguing sides to the same high-frequency coin. Where Grand Seiko possessed a certain austerity to it, a degree of refinement I found in few, if any other places, Zenith watches zurich Replica was quite the opposite. Zenith might be a Swiss brand, but it always seems to have an American-grade boldness to it, a panache matched by none, at least none with Zenith’s horological pedigree. And thus, my two favorite watch brands were chosen: a restrained and sophisticated dress watch and a wild, avant-garde sports watch. Why can’t one watch just be both?Zenith, to their credit, almost had an answer to my question already: the criminally overlooked A273, a classic chronograph that had a measure of civility to it. Yet the A273 itself had committed an offense: it was offered during the same basic time frame as the legendary tri-color El Primero. Because of this coexistence, it was doomed to be overshadowed by its more prolific brother, which continues to be available today. Unlike the El Primero, the A273 was powered by a beautiful, yet far less revolutionary, hand wound movement. There it remained, largely unnoticed even among Zenith collectors, awaiting the time it too would receive the El Primero.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Even though the 5011K is an old movement (at least in style), Zenith decided to opt for a relatively modern skeletonization style for the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette watches. The bridges are uniquely skeletonized, helping to form some original shapes. The surfaces of said bridges actually have an almost “frosted” finish, while the edges are beveled. According to Zenith, it takes 200 hours of engraving and finishing to get each of these skeletonized 5011K watch movements properly done.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In such a large scale, the skeleton dial and movement look very cool. The 5011K movement itself is 50mm wide, so you can imagine just how interesting it might look all skeletonized within the 60mm wide case. Recall that the Zenith watches type 20 Replica Pilot Type 20 Squelette case uses a sapphire crystal middle section with the rest being in 18k white gold. Thus, views into the movement ought to be rather grand – beyond the already generously sized sapphire front and back, which beautifully reveal pretty much the entire movement.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith of course wanted to continue the skeleton theme to the dial, where both the hands are skeletonized and the cut-out hour markers appear to float above the dial. This is visually interesting, but I always like my watch dials to look like watch dials, and in my opinion, at least the hands didn’t need to look like blued wire frames as much. The style of the skeleton dial is aesthetically nice, but it does seriously injure legibility – which is, in a sense, quite an irony for a watch with a movement whose claim to fame was winning a chronometry competition for accuracy (even if it was back in 1967).

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I do quite like how Zenith once again opts to engrave parts of the 18k white gold case for this limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette. You can see the decorative engravings on both the lugs and the bezel. The hand-engraved bezel has been further decorated with blue enamel – painted in after the engraving process and then baked for permanency. It makes for a cool look that is both unexpected but that also helps make this entire horological package complete.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Allow me to once again give you the basics of the Zenith caliber 5011K from a technical specification perspective. The movement operates at 2.5Hz (18,000 bph) and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial indicates the time as well as the seconds on a subsidiary dial at 9, and the power reserve at 3. With a timepiece like this, you might have the coolest pocket watch on the block – and you can even choose to wear it on your wrist. Like the similar Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage A Louis Bleriot (hands-on here) which is also new for 2015, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette will be part of a limited edition of just five pieces with a price of 200,000 Swiss Francs. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I get the appeal of aged watches, as do many people interested in vintage or antique items. There is something empowering about owning or wearing something that existed for as long or longer than yourself. In a sense, you are borrowing some of its ability to remain intact and potentially useful. So in that regard I think I understand the “cool factor” behind many of the vintage timepieces (especially sport watches) that draw people. Having said that, I am not sure how I feel about “artificially aged” watches. What do you think?

Case in point is this fashionably aged version of the Zenith watches tokyo Replica Pilot watch known as the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903, that we first debuted here. When Zenith debuted the watch in late 2013, it was around the anniversary of the first flight by the Wright Brothers 110 years earlier in 1903. There is a cool engraving on the back of the Type 20 GMT 1903 watch case which is a replica of a famous photograph of I believe Orville Wright on the ground with Wilbur flying the Wright Flyer. Having said that, Zenith didn’t work with the Wright family itself, so aside from the “1903” name of the watch and the engraving on the back, it isn’t an official “Wright watch.”

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On
For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

As many of you know, there have been a few Wright Brothers-themed watches over the last year. In addition to the Zenith watch kaskus Replica Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 there is also the Shinola The Wright Brothers Limited Edition Watch as well as the Bremont Wright Flyer watch that was recently announced. I wonder if there will be more watches to help celebrate the beginning of manned flight?

So while the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 watch is sort of themed for the Wright Brothers, that isn’t technically what the watch is all about. Zenith mostly wanted to explore the production of an actually vintage looking version of its vintage-themed Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 watch. Specifically, the 1903 is based on the Zenith PIlot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT watch (hands-on here). So how does the standard GMT differ from this ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740 1903 limited edition model?

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

All of the Zenith watches switzerland Replica Pilot Type 20 GMT watches come in 48mm wide cases, and two of them currently come in titanium cases, while the non-limited edition model comes in a polished steel case. First, there was the Black Baron model in DLC coated titanium, and this 1903 version also has a black DLC coated titanium case. Unlike the Black Baron model (that was limited to 500 pieces), the 1903 model has hour markers and hands with luminant that has been artificially aged. The 1903 also comes on a custom bund-style leather strap.

Of course, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903 also has a unique style of caseback engraving and is limited to almost four times as many pieces. Further, it also carries a price premium of $300 retail. On the wrist, the 48mm wide case is of course even larger with the bund-style strap that has a wide piece of leather that goes completely under the case. I do however believe that this extra piece of leather can be removed and the watch can look “normal” on just two strap pieces and not the underside.

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

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Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

To mark the brand’s 150th anniversary, Zenith has introduced another version of its ultra-complicated Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane watch (hands-on here). That watch is unique because of its gimbal-style gyroscopic escapement, which Zenith calls a “Gravity Control system”; it also has a fusée-and-chain constant force mechanism, which is rarely seen in wristwatches.

In 2013, Zenith defy quartz watches Replica updated the collection with the Hurricane Grand Voyage, a limited special edition piece that featured lavish decoration in the form of hand-engraving and enamel painting that depicts Christopher Columbus’ founding of the New World.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

For 2015, and to mark the 150th anniversary of Zenith, the manufacture has just announced the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II. It’s very similar to the Grand Voyage from 2013, but it is still worth going over what makes this watch so special. Since there is so much going on with this watch, let’s begin with the case. Case size is 45mm and is 18k rose gold. It is 14.8mm thick, but this actually varies up to 21.8mm thanks to the sapphire dome which houses the Gravity Control system. Despite the large sapphire dome, and contrary to expectations, the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II wears quite well once you get used to it. The only thing we would note is that it can be easy to bump the sapphire dome into things if you are not careful.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Like its predecessor, the dial exposes much of the watch’s underlying movement and mechanisms. There are three subdials made out of gold and filled with enamel and decorated with guilloche. Hands are blued steel. The subdial at 12 o’clock tells the time, while the subdials at nine and three o’clock offer the running seconds and power reserve, respectively. Legibility is not an issue, though wearers would likely get distracted by other aspects of watch that are exposed on the dial side – that we would get into later.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The first Zenith watches elite 6150 Replica Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage was a showcase of Zenith’s watchmaking prowess coupled with its flair for the arts and craft, and the new Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II is no different. Flip the watch around and owners will be greeted with a large sapphire display caseback and a breathtaking artwork that celebrates Christopher Columbus.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The painting is hand-engraved and hand-painted, and depicts Columbus landing in the New World, with Columbus himself on the right-hand side holding the Spanish flag and natives on the left. In the background is a large and colorful parrot that is engraved and painted in excruciating detail, and further back, one can spy the three ships in which Columbus and his crew arrived – the Santa Maria, Niña, and Pinta. The entire painting is really fascinating to look at, and we could just stare at it for hours on end to take in all the details.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Fortunately, the artwork is more than matched by the mechanical prowess of the watch. Powering the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II is Zenith’s hand-wound El Primero 8805 movement, which beats at 5Hz, offers 50 hours of power reserve, and is made up of no fewer than 939 parts – a stratospheric amount in itself, and even more unusual when we consider that the watch offers a relatively small number of complications. The three complications it features are the power reserve indication, the fusée-and-chain constant force mechanism, which can be clearly see on the dial side at 12 o’clock just behind the time subdial (and which you could find in Zenith’s other recently announced creation, the Georges-Favre Jacot Academy, hands-on here). Transmission of power between the mainspring and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain that is made up of 585 parts, and the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train by adjusting for variations in tension. Winding the watch offers a visual treat of the chain wrapping itself back onto the fusée.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The third, and arguably most notable complication is the Gravity Control system, which is made up of 173 parts and borrows heavily from the principle of gimbal suspension systems used in marine chronometers of days long past. The idea behind it is that this self-regulating device would keep the escapement leveled at all times, regardless of the ships’ rolling and pitching, thus negating the need for the timekeeping device to be regulated in multiple positions.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The counterweight of the Gravity Control System features a hand-painted half-sphere of the Southern hemisphere. In some ways, this is the antithesis of the tourbillon and carrousel, and is arguably the more fun and interactive mechanism/complication. Moving the watch around lets wearers observe the mechanism at work and it is quite wondrous to see that no matter how you position the watch, the escapement stays absolutely level. It does have a wobbly action to it, as the gimbal tries to stay at level, but to think that the drive from the massive mainspring nevertheless finds its way into this tirelessly moving construction is in itself awe-inspiring.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

All in all, the Zenith watches vs omega Replica Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II combines haute horlogerie with some of the most magnificent artwork we have seen on a watch. And despite its lofty specifications and presentation, it also comes off as a very fun watch to wear because of the Gravity Control system. The Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II comes in an ornately designed presentation box made out of fine mahogany and features ox-bone inlays. It is priced at $353,000 and is limited to just 10 pieces. zenith-watches.com

Aeronith is very light (2.7 times lighter than titanium, and 1.7 times lighter than standard aluminum) and also durable. The formation process (which is patented by Hublot) boils aluminum in some manner as to create air bubbles. When it dries, Aeronith takes on a foam-like texturing, and the pores are said to be filled in with a special polymer. I don’t know how much Aeronith will be used in future watch production, but I have a feeling Hublot and its sister brands will make use of the exotic material when they see fit – such as for these 10 unique watches. The issue is that each case is simply very time consuming to produce.Each of the 10 debut Zenith Defy Lab watches has a slightly different look mixing silver and gold-toned hour markers and hands with different dial and strap colors. It feels a bit like Zenith’s prototype collection where they tested out what the production models might look like – but honestly each looks cool (I’m partial to the green). Buying one of these 10 pieces (which are all sold out) came with some special perks. Not only do you as a customer get to be at the launch event with us members of the watch media, but they also get to take a watch home with them. The buyers of each of these piece unique watches also get a Zenith manufacture visit, an “exceptional gift box,” (which I will admit is pretty nice) as well as rare bottles of Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes white wine.

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Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

It seems that men named Favre are blessed with uncommon ambition and zeal. Although Green Bay’s iconic quarterback is better known, Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith, can boast the fuller trophy cabinet. Since its foundation in 1865, Zenith has won 2,333 chronometry prizes (which kind of puts that one Super Bowl in the shade). Aged just 22 when Zenith opened its doors, Favre-Jacot was known for his enterprising spirit and daring. This year, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot will be released to celebrate 150 years since the Le Locle local announced himself to the world and cemented his place in horological history.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith has produced something befitting its founder’s genius, while staying true to the modern stylistic characteristics of the brand. The case silhouette of the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch is identifiably from the Zenith Academy, and the ‘guiding star’ logo is featured on the dial and prominently on the crown. You could, however, be forgiven for skipping over the necessary nods to the brand’s identity in favor of ogling the complication that sets this wristwatch apart from the crowd. A kidney-shaped cutaway, spanning from 9 to 3 o’clock, reveals a finely wrought fusée and chain system.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

A fusée is a cone-shaped pulley around which a chain attached to the barrel (containing the mainspring) is coiled. It is a device that we have seen used in some other previously debuted offerings, such as the Romain Gauthier Logical One, the Breguet Tradition Ref. 7047, or, sticking with Zenith, the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tourbillon.  We have discussed this device in all those previous articles in great detail, but to keep it short, we will say the primary function of this centuries old invention is to counter the effects of the ailing torque of the mainspring as it winds down, hence improving isochronism over the course of the watch’s power reserve – which, in the case of the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, is 50 hours.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

The fusée cone sits in between the barrel and the gear train. The chain is attached to the bottom level of the fusée (the widest part), and snakes around the cone wall, guided by a helical groove, extending from the top level of the cone (the thinnest part) to connect with the barrel. As the mainspring unwinds and the barrel turns, the chain unwraps itself from the fusée and is slowly wrapped around the barrel’s outer wall. When the mainspring is fully wound and pulling on the chain with high torque, the fusée is being driven by its narrow end. As the power runs down and the chain wraps further around the barrel and so the weaker pull of the mainspring is compensated by the increased radius of the fusée, keeping the torque constant.

Particularly well executed is the chain itself – a perfect replication of the most traditional fusée design, finished to a mind-boggling standard. My favorite example of this attention to detail is the contrasting finish of the fusée barrel. There is a beautiful interplay between the high polish centre, made interesting by its concentric step pattern, and the grained outer circumference that bears the brand name and the star logo in black.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

While this barrel rotates beneath the wishbone-shaped bridge, which itself sports a straight grain, the effect cast by light hitting these three finishes is a sight to behold. The fusée looks even better in real life from an almost side-on angle, from which its true majesty can be appreciated. Its height and dominance of the dial is really noticeable when you can see the wall of the chain. Thankfully, Zenith had the good sense to make the cutaway large enough to best display their efforts.

In fact, the finish of all functional components is rightfully expected to be beautifully executed on a watch of this caliber – it is only when the more superficial aspects of the Zenith watches singapore Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot are scrutinized that contention arises.

The watch we’re looking at today does have an El Primero, but it’s not the A273. It’s the new Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer limited edition. It’s closely inspired by that A273, of course, but it is not a reissue or a new version. Instead, it takes a leap forward, and not only in terms of the movement as we’ve made subtle updates throughout the watch. Let’s take a close look at the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer and learn more about both its predecessor and the limited edition.The aesthetic heart of any watch is its dial. Almost everything that defines a model as a unique, distinctive piece can be found there. For this watch we wanted to use a dial that was extremely understated and clean, yet never boring. That meant removing almost everything that was superfluous. I find that the need for simplicity is greatest in chronographs, and other watches with intrinsically busy dials. This watch, therefore, would have no date and it would have no “El Primero” or “36,000 VPH” writing on it. It had to be reduced to the essence of what a chronograph must have while nonetheless balancing some of those traits that defined its ancestor.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

When brands attempt to create a timepiece that honors the past – especially a past as personal as this watch attempts to extol – there is a fine balance that must be struck. The battle between old and new. There are those who believe brands must maintain congruity with their current range in order to satisfy their existing customers. Others insist it is more important a watch is congruous with itself. Another camp might argue that a mechanical watch is duty-bound to acknowledge the past and the present in the same breath. Broad as these principles may be, they provide a solid framework by which we can assess how successful or otherwise the Zenith watches 2017 Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot might be.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

There has been an obvious attempt to align the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch with the current range with the case shape. The Academy watches have a pretty unadventurous silhouette, but it is modern enough without being crass in any way at all – although at 45 millimeters wide, it certainly is relatively large. The problem with the styling of this watch for me, lies in the half-hearted dial design and the seemingly non-existent relationship of the hands. The majority of fusée-driven wristwatches I have seen all fall neatly into the second critical category – their design is eminently consistent with itself.

For example, the Logical One is a mad, punky re-imagining of a classic design. It is bold and futuristic. It is a unique and immediately iconic piece. In contrast to this fashion-forward approach, the Breguet Tradition fusée Tourbillon is a pure embodiment of horological classicism. The craziest thing about the Breguet is its high-domed glass, which offers the wearer a more three-dimensional view of the refined gear work, sandwiched between frosted plates and chunky, George Daniels-esque cocks. Both designs work because they seem to thoroughly believe in themselves. For me, the Zenith Georges Favre-Jacot does not announce itself with quite as much gusto.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

The Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot may well satisfy those who want to see the brand’s DNA or a mixture of old and new, but, frustratingly, there are several other watches in Zenith’s own range, that do the job so much better! The most damning thing I can say about the dial is its finish. This watch was surely conceived to appeal to lovers of mechanics, of clever complications, of metal in motion. Why, then, did Zenith decide to cover up so much of what is a beautiful movement, with a dull, silver-toned dial?

Its legibility is unarguably superb, but there are plenty of ways to maintain functionality with style – just look at the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Hurricane for an example of another in-house fusée watch that winds up looking ten times cooler because they went all in on the design instead of folding too soon. Even if the Hurricane is too meretricious for your tastes, it is hard to deny the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot would have benefited from a nice bit of traditional guilloché or rose-engine turning similar to the reserved dial of the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Equation du Temps. Granted, these familial examples are way more expensive than the anniversary special, but given the price point, Zenith, as I see it, could have stretched to something a little more elaborate or refined.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Sure, the plain dial helps highlight the fusée mechanism and allow it to visually dominate the design of the watch – and for some, that contrast may actually be a welcome feat. A design choice I find more difficult to wrap my head around, however, is in the inconsistency of the styles of the hands. The key issue is that the hands for the hours and minutes and those fitted on the sub-dials seem to originate from two separate watches – it is a bit of a clash of modern and traditional styling. The blue is a good choice, but the large hands appear to be very flat and, more important, sit very awkwardly next to one of the most exquisitely crafted complications in high-end watchmaking.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Some will appreciate the traditional curves of the small hands while others will prefer the modern, large, and angular design of the main hands – which seem to work better with the baton indices anyway – but the inconsistency is more difficult to swallow. Speaking of inconsistency, seeing the mixture of English and French terms (i.e. “Force Constante“, “High Frequency” and “Bas Haut“) within an inch from one another further emphasizes the two-faced nature of the dial – a weird and illogical choice. But just as I doubted this watch, my opinion became effusively positive when I saw the case back.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

I am huge proponent of a well-executed three-quarter bridge. It takes a great deal of restraint to get this right and Zenith have passed the test with flying colors. With just enough to entertain the eye, without relying on gimmicks or flashy finishing, this full view of the movement reveals its humility and begs to be taken seriously as a horological exercise rather than a bombastic market-driven statement. This watch means business. It is a watch made by watchmakers to honour one of the greats, designed for a discerning and intelligent audience.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

With only 150 pieces available, the Zenith watches models Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot is sure to sell out quickly. At a hefty 45mm across, with a height of 14.35mm on the wrist, it is large enough to catch a curious eye. The cambered sapphire is treated with anti-glare on both sides, so the fusée can be enjoyed with clarity. Although certain elements of the design may split opinion, there is enough to get excited about in terms of quality and uncommonness to warrant a price of $82,700zenith-watches.com

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Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

Sponsored Post written by Topper Jeweler’s Rob Caplan

Of all of Zenith’s 2014 introductions, the model that I find most interesting is the Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition. What separates this piece from the rest of Zenith’s new offerings is its connection to four distinct time periods of Zenith’s modern history.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

The skeletal opening on the Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition is very similar to the shape of the models from the early 2000s, though the watch features modern elements like a silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel.

The first era that the watch evokes is that of the mechanical watch industry’s struggles during the mid 70s. While Zenith watches los angeles Replica had come out with the first El Primero in 1969 and designed a series of attractive chronographs in the early 1970s, the company struggled financially. In the mid 70s, Zenith was sold to American owners who decided to discontinue the manufacture of mechanical chronographs altogether. The watch’s namesake, Charles Vermot, was a foreman at Zenith’s factory, and was charged with the task of disassembling Zenith’s El Primero production assembly and selling it off for parts. Instead of carrying out this task, he secretly hid away the presses, technical plans, and equipment used in the creation of El Primero.

Years later, As Mr. Vermot had hoped, the manufacture of automatic chronographs once again became a priority at Zenith. To his delight, the parts and tools were discovered by new ownership and were instrumental in the continuation of Zenith’s mechanical chronographs. The Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot retails for $9,800 and is limited to 1975 units: 1975 is also the year that Mr. Vermot hid the items mentioned above.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

A Chronomaster open XT from the early 2000s, featuring a similar skeletal opening to that of the new El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve.

The dial of this year’s Charles Vermot Limited features a shade of blue exclusively reserved for tribute models dedicated to him. (The other popular Charles Vermot model is in the 36,000 VPH collection which is a similar watch at a lower price point that doesn’t have a skeletal opening.) The shade is a deep metallic blue that, while vibrant, is a little more understated than cobalt.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The minute register of the stopwatch function on the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

The open skeletal portion on the new limited edition is a design influenced by Zenith watches any good Replica watches of the early 2000s. When many collectors think back on Zenith’s timepieces from this period, they think of decadent and dramatic designs. As described by Zenith’s U.S. Brand Director Roland Enderli, “Introduced in 2003 as a part of the main collection, the skeletal opening became both synonymous with the brand and remains one of its most iconic features today.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Power Reserve Indicator and lumed tri-spoke second hand of the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

While most of the aesthetic lines from this time period have been culled from the current collection, the skeletal opening used on what was then called the “Chronomaster Open” watch is almost identical to that of the current El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve. While Zenith came out with other open models in the early and mid 2000s that featured various shaped windows, only the Chronomaster Open allowed a complete view of the balance and escapement wheel. Accordingly, it’s no surprise that it’s the shape they retained for the current collection.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

While the opening may be the same, due to advancements in watchmaking technology, the quality of the visible components have been enhanced. Most notably, the current Chronomaster Power Reserve models use a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. This serves two benefits. Roland explains, “It has the major advantage of extending the service interval, but at the same time it brings a nice aesthetic feature to the watch where you can see the violet color of the these parts that are made of silicon instead of traditional metal.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The caseback and a view of the 4021 calibre Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Chronomaster Power Reserve pictured above in silver. Like the Charles Vermot Limited, it now features an updated silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel. $9,800

The Zenith watches online shop Replica El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot also has to be seen as a part of Zenith’s recent overhaul of its entire collection, as its tone has shifted from avant garde to neoclassical. Unlike the Chronomaster Open of the early 2000s, which featured layered cases and complicated guilloche, the tone is classical and understated. Like the 36,000 VPH which was introduced in 2010 and the other dial variations of the Chronomaster Power Reserve models which were introduced in 2011, the case design is based on the original El Primero chronograph from 1969. According to Roland, “When we reintroduced the Chronomaster Power Reserve in 2011, the design objective was to pair the open concept that was so identifiable with Zenith with our current interpretation of our best selling chronograph, the 36,000 VPH.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Chronomaster Power Reserve, pictured above with a black dial, came out in 2011. It features the same case as the 36,000 VPH which is stylistically influenced from the first El Primero Chronograph from 1969. $9,800

Ultimately, whether or not a watch that evokes four different eras from a company’s history is interesting will depend on the perspective of a future buyer. From the seller’s perspective, or at least my perspective, a watch that is so ingrained in a company’s history is much more enjoyable to think about and describe than an average watch. Price is $9,800. I feel fortunate to have it as the subject of Topper Fine Jewelers first piece for aBlogtoWatch.

Rob Caplan is a fourth generation watch retailer whose family owns Topper Fine Jewelers on the edge of Silicon Valley in Burlingame, California. Topper is an authorized dealer of OMEGA, Glashütte Original, Longines, Zenith, Ball, Bremont and other fine Swiss watch Brands.

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Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch ref. 04.2420.5011/17.C714 is hands-down one of the oddest timepieces I had the pleasure of seeing at Baselworld 2014. aBlogtoWatch first debuted the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch here. I suggest checking out that article for a bit more background on the watch – which is necessary reading to understand exactly what this timepiece is all about. In hand-engraved 18k white gold and sapphire crystal, this massive pilot-style watch was an even more exclusive take on the surprising hit limited edition Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 (aBlogtoWatch hands-on here) watch from 2012.

Part of the title of this article is me saying that the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is “a true collector’s piece.” Why did I say that? If you asked that question, then you were correct to do so. In the scheme of modern luxury watches, there are more “collectible limited editions” that even the industry itself knows what to do with. Limited edition watches – originally meant as something special for collectors – are totally overdone. Most are done just for the sake of doing a limited edition, and Zenith, like other brands, is guilty of that. Once in a while something truly weird and special is created that is actually produced in a limited quantity because of technical or logistical difficulty, and is meant to appeal to a niche audience. In fact, that something like the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is inherently controversial is a major reason why it is ultimately so collectible.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

It is true that Zenith’s new Defy case feels a bit like that of the Hublot Big Bang. It isn’t a bad thing or an accident. Biver has long since found out that most new or younger watch lovers prefer something more bold, more edgy, more masculine, and certainly more visible than most vintage timepieces. For that reason, Zenith watches watch snob Replica is smart to combine exciting technology with a spirited design. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a watch brand debut a new movement or technical concept into a timepiece that looks like a boring dress watch. Are those conservative watch buyers the first ones to jump on something new? Heavens no. Another interesting conversation piece about the Defy Lab is how much of a showcase it is of Biver’s policy of “sharing” among the brands. The Zenith Defy Lab might be assembled at Zenith, but the case is made at (and developed by) Hublot, and the movement is produced (and developed) at TAG Heuer.The first 10 pieces of the Zenith Defy Lab watch will come in a 44mm wide case produced from something else which is exotic known as “Aeronith.” Hublot invented it at part of their materials science division that came up with things such as red ceramic and magic gold. Aeronith (or “the Swiss cheese of aluminum” as you might call it) is actually produced at Hublot’s facility in Nyon. Aeronith is apparently similar to aluminum alloys used in the naval world because it is both strong and corrosion-resistant. Aluminum is rarely used in watches because it is relatively fragile – but in special forms can prove to be a useful material. In person, Aeronith certainly feels impressively light, and in a lot of ways has the visual appearance of concrete (in a cool way).

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

It all starts with a vintage pocket watch movement that Zenith restored and decorated, known as the caliber 5011 (caliber 5011K). This movement is about 50mm wide, so you understand why the case itself is so large. I haven’t discussed numbers yet, but from the look of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu you can tell it is huge – which it no doubt is. Back in our original article on the Zenith Montre d-Aeronef Pilot Type 20 watch, we talked more about what makes this movement special. What you need to know here is that it has 48 hours of power reserve, with the dial, subsidiary seconds dial, and power reserve indicator on the dial. The 5011 movement is also supposed to be pretty accurate – at least by reputation. A hint to that is the “Chronometre” text label on the dial of the watch. Oh, and the movement in this watch is also COSC Chronometer certified.

What Zenith did to the massive 5011 movement in this limited edition watch was to hand-engrave the hell out of it with an attractive and classic filigree design all over the exposed backplate and sides of the movement. Zenith then decided to take it further, and put the movement in a case that was also decorated – but they couldn’t decide on how to decorate it since they also wanted to show off the movement! Thus you have a very unique case architecture that includes 18k white gold lugs with front and rear bezel, with a middle section and caseback produced from transparent sapphire crystal (along with over the dial, of course). The result is something unlike anything I have seen before, with totally hand-engraved elements and a lot of exposure to the movement – which is also decorated.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

If all that wasn’t enough, Zenith decided to hand-engrave the turnip-style aviator crown as well as the ardillon-style buckle on the strap – which is also something you will probably never see again – especially at this size. Whether you like the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch or not, I want you to consider just how uncommon something like this is – especially from a brand like Zenith, known for making the massively popular and mainstream (mainstream luxury watch world, that is) El Primero chronograph movement for sport watches.

Speaking of size, this isn’t a small watch as I mentioned, but it has to be large because of the size of the movement. Zenith measures the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu to be 60mm wide which includes the crown. That is at least 10mm more the the widest watch size most people’s wrists can handle. Also, assume for a moment that the average watch size is about 40-42mm wide, then the Zenith Pilot Type 20 watch is a full 1/3 larger than the average watch. It also happens to be 18.5mm thick. So what is it like on the wrist?

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

You can wear this watch – I mean, I did. I wouldn’t call it anything but sort of silly looking, but some people can pull it off. In this case, less than a dozen people around the world will even have an opportunity to try and pull it off. I also wouldn’t go “sporting” with it, given the delicate nature of the materials such as the sapphire crystal middle section and enamel dial. See, like I said; this is a watch exclusively for collectors. Having said that, the design is very interesting and arguably attractive if you did want to strap it on your wrist. The next time I see someone complain asking, “when are they going to stop to make ‘huge’ watches?” I am simply going to point them to this watch and tell them to get excited for more 60mm-wide timepieces.

As the “Grand Feu” part of the Zenith watches academy Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch name implies, the dial is produced from grand feu enamel. Yet again, we have something which makes the watch unique – how many pilot-style watches have enamel dials? What makes this design so interesting is that elements of it are meant for classic dress watches while Zenith produced it to sort of look like a vintage sport watch – with a lot of decoration. A timepiece such as the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu will look really nice next to your set of engraved blades and guns.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Enamel dials are very beautiful, and the color lasts more-or-less forever. A close look at the white grand feu enamel dial of this watch yields extremely crisp hour numerals, text, and markers. Grand feu implies that after the enamel is applied, the entire dial is baked to make it permanent. If you want an enamel dial watch on the cheap merely to appreciate the technique, look for a vintage pocket watch with an enamel dial.

In some images it is difficult to tell, but the hands on the dial are all blued steel. The hour and minute hands also happen to be skeletonized. Given their large size, the hands are still pretty legible, but this was an interesting design decision for Zenith to make. I think it works out well in the end.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Even though the Zenith watches felix baumgartner Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is totally absurd when it comes to the size, engraving, sapphire crystal case, and overall theme, I sort of love it. I like how niche and exclusive it is. I like that the watch was produced seemingly with no target audience or demographic in mind. I like that I feel like one crazy person at Zenith wanted this watch to happen, so they made a few of them. The complexity of making the case, doing all the engravings, and the limited nature of the movements all add to why this is something that must be a limited edition. People might see this and think “there is no way this is really from Zenith,” but it is – and that is what I like about it. I wish brands would more often take the opportunity to do something totally against their character as the foundation for a limited edition watch.

Of course, something like the Zenith watches elite ultra thin Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu ref. 04.2420.5011/17.C714 watch is going to be hard to find and expensive. It is limited to just 10 pieces with a price of $165,000. zenith-watches.com

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Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Baselworld 2015 came and went seemingly faster than previous Baselworld watch trade shows. Maybe that is because team aBlogtoWatch met with so many brands, hour after hour, for a solid week. By our records, we formally met with about 85 watch brands in the hopes of capturing as wide a scope of what is new in the watch world as possible. That includes meetings with the big boy luxury watch makers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, TAG Heuer, Breitling, and many more that represent most of the world’s high-end watch makers, as well as meetings with more mainstream producers of timepieces such as Bulova, Citizen, Seiko, Casio, and Victorinox Swiss Army. More so, we took the time to learn what smaller independent watch makers were doing to innovate and add variety to the world of not only mechanical timepieces, but also some interesting new electronic and smartwatches.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Team aBlogtoWatch at Baselworld 2015; from left to right: David Bredan, James Stacey, Ariel Adams – with Mark Carson catching up with us just a bit later

Yes, smartwatches. With TAG Heuer’s loud “Biverian” announcement that they will soon release a smartwatch produced in partnership with Google Android Wear and Intel, the watch world was buzzing with plans for how they should adapt to the upcoming Apple Watch or merely offer their own take on dealing with the high-end “connected watch” market. Surprisingly, talk of the Apple Watch (whose April 2015 release date was announced just one week before Baselworld 2015) was not a common topic of conversation during our meetings with watch brands. The aBlogtoWatch team anticipated a lot more questions and discussions regarding what will likely be a highly disruptive product. While some brands certainly had feet in the world of connected electronic watches, comparisons or alternatives to the Apple Watch seemed slim.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

My guess is that brands did not feel they actually had anything to compete with Apple’s product and simply preferred not to bring it up too much. Other than TAG Heuer’s smartwatch announcement, the new brand Vector soft-launched a new smartwatch concept, Bulgari announced a magnesium Diagono with an NFC chip built in that connects with an electronic locker app, Frederique Constant was extremely bullish on their MMT platform-based Horological Smartwatch, and several year old Kairos finally showed off some close-to-being-complete watches that combine mechanical movements with digital screens.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists
It is true that Zenith’s new Defy case feels a bit like that of the Hublot Big Bang. It isn’t a bad thing or an accident. Biver has long since found out that most new or younger watch lovers prefer something more bold, more edgy, more masculine, and certainly more visible than most vintage timepieces. For that reason, Zenith gold watch 1960 Replica is smart to combine exciting technology with a spirited design. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a watch brand debut a new movement or technical concept into a timepiece that looks like a boring dress watch. Are those conservative watch buyers the first ones to jump on something new? Heavens no. Another interesting conversation piece about the Defy Lab is how much of a showcase it is of Biver’s policy of “sharing” among the brands. The Zenith Defy Lab might be assembled at Zenith, but the case is made at (and developed by) Hublot, and the movement is produced (and developed) at TAG Heuer.The first 10 pieces of the Zenith Defy Lab watch will come in a 44mm wide case produced from something else which is exotic known as “Aeronith.” Hublot invented it at part of their materials science division that came up with things such as red ceramic and magic gold. Aeronith (or “the Swiss cheese of aluminum” as you might call it) is actually produced at Hublot’s facility in Nyon. Aeronith is apparently similar to aluminum alloys used in the naval world because it is both strong and corrosion-resistant. Aluminum is rarely used in watches because it is relatively fragile – but in special forms can prove to be a useful material. In person, Aeronith certainly feels impressively light, and in a lot of ways has the visual appearance of concrete (in a cool way).

For the most part, smartwatches are still not a major part of the traditional watch industry, but major groups like Swatch, Fossil, and Timex are clear that smartwatches are part of their short-term future strategies. In a sense, it was refreshing to see mostly traditional products with some lovely innovation and some eye-popping wild novelties destined for the privileged few. Let’s compare for a moment to SIHH 2015 which I determined was about catering to the most high-end demographic of watch buyers with more exclusive, diamond-decorated products that offered little in terms of novel R&D or new models.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Baselworld is much more about all price brackets, and for the most part, I think it is safe to say that “good value” was something a lot of brands had in mind for their 2015 releases. That means lower priced models not only for the major groups, but also from the high-end independents where lower prices might mean $50,000 versus $100,000. The message to us was that the market was not only interested in lower-priced models, but expensive timepieces that deliver excellent value.

From a visual trend perspective, we were surprised at just how popular the color blue was. Literally all the major groups had impressive new blue-colored watches. That means brand new models in blue, but also a lot of existing models with new blue versions. I don’t know what it was about blue, but many of them were beautiful enough that we didn’t need to ask “why.” I think it is also safe to say that a lot of companies are adding smaller-sized watches to their collections, but at the same time, not abandoning larger-sized watches.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

It would be incorrect to say that there is a trend toward smaller timepieces, but rather, a trend toward rounding out brand collections to include smaller and larger watches. 40-44mm wide seems to be a common size this year with timepieces under 40mm wide being relatively uncommon, and brand new watches over 45mm wide only existing in the “novelty sport watch category.” Nevertheless,we saw an enormous amount of bold sport watches. Macho timepieces are certainly in, whether it is from a big brand like Omega or from smaller companies who are entirely dedicated to bold sport watches. For me, the message is that more and more companies are understanding the fun, fashionable nature of aggressively designed sport watches for men – and the popularity thereof.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

The aBlogtoWatch team had a difficult time (as always) selecting our list of the top 10 watches of Baselworld 2015. The watches on the list are by no means the only good watches from the show, but represent our relatively democratic agreement of what we feel comfortable recommending to a large pool of people. If you are into ultra-extravagant complicated timepieces, brands like Breguet, HYT and Jacob & Co. certainly have something for you. If you like more demure dress watches, then Bulgari, Frederique Constant, and Zenith watches san francisco Replica all have things you’ll be into. So without further ado, and in no particular order, here is aBlogtoWatch’s list of the top 10 watches for Baselworld 2015.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Rolex Day-Date 40

Guessing what Rolex is going to come out with each year is a difficult task that most people get wrong, but oddly, I guessed that a new Day-Date model was on its way – and for 2015, there indeed is a new Rolex President (another name for the Day-Date). Rolex has discontinued the Day-Date II 41mm watch in favor of this brand new Day-Date 40 which is more than just a “facelifted” product. This is a totally new Day-Date watch, with updates concerning the case, bracelet, dial, and movement. The operative term here is “refinement.” The Rolex Day-Date 40 isn’t about changing the Day-Date, it is about making what has been successful better. The new caliber 3255 movement is more accurate and reliable, the bracelet links have new ceramic inserts for durability and comfort, the dial has more detailed hour markers and decoration, and the case has been carefully refined to really optimize the experience. Rolex has upped the ante with the Day-Date 40, making what they do even better – although, at the same time, it is a product without any real competition in the market. Exclusively in gold or platinum, the prices for the 2015 Rolex-Day Date 40 range from 33,200 CHF in Everose gold to 59,600 CHF in platinum.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon

Classic looks and a lot of cool technology are what we like about the enamel-dialed Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon watch, that includes Ulysse Nardin’s new shock absorbing system in the tourbillon-based in-house made movement. Using a lot of silicon, the movement includes not only a tourbillon, but a constant force system as part of the regulator which has been designed with durability in mind. Wearing the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon watch is a pleasant experience, offering a handsome classic design with a super legible dial, exposed tourbillon, and clever power reserve indicator display. In 18k white or rose gold, the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon is priced from $84,000.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer

In 2007, Omega delighted enthusiasts by reintroducing the iconic Seamaster Ploprof from the 1970s. In 2015, Omega updated the Seamaster Proplof 1200M with some new tech, material updates, and more reasons to love this cult dive watch that enthusiast adore. The large and heavy Omega Seamaster Ploprof is now a lot lighter, being rendered entirely in titanium – which also includes the supplied mesh-metal bracelet. The watch now uses a ceramic bezel and has a cleaner looking dial without the date. Inside the Seamaster Ploprof 12000M watch for 2015 is Omega’s new 8900 family of in-house movements that is more or less an 8500 movement with the addition of anti-magentic parts and Omega’s new METAS certification – “Co-Axial Master Chronometer.” The new Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer versions aren’t half bad either, but these continue to be pricey timepieces, starting at $12,500.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze

Zenith really got its entry-level priced pilot watch right this time. Last year’s Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special watch was a great looking time-only version of the Type 20, but Zenith baffled consumers by including a Swiss Sellita automatic movement versus something produced in-house. For 2015, Zenith nails it with the new Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze. The new 45mm-wide bronze metal case with the titanium caseback is excellent looking and wraps the vintage look in a case which feels both refined and a bit steampunk. Inside the Zenith Pilot type 20 Extra Special Bronze is an in-house made Zenith Elite caliber 679 automatic movement which the collection had served in the first place. Available later in 2015, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze will be priced at $7,600.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Tudor Pelagos Blue

We probably would not have included the Tudor Pelagos with the new blue dial on our top 10 watches of Baselworld 2015 list just for the new color scheme, even though they did it so well. However, in addition to the new blue dial and matching ceramic bezel, the Tudor Pelagos gets a brand new in-house made Tudor movement, known as the MT5612. With 70 hours of power reserve and a silicon hairspring, the new in-house movement not only offers a more integrated brand experience, but a modest price increase over the outgoing Tudor Pelagos that included a Swiss ETA automatic movement. Price for the Tudor Pelagos Blue is 4,200 Swiss francs.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent 7077

When Breguet puts their mind to something, the result is typically very impressive. The brand isn’t too open about their internal research and development, but they are among the few producers of classically-inspired watches that nevertheless utilize interesting and often new mechanical technology. If you are familiar with the basic concept of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre, you will more or less understand the idea behind having two separate drive trains to power the part of the watch that indicates the time and the part of the watch that offers complications. The Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent starts with a single mainspring system that powers a separate gear train and escapement for the time and for the chronograph. Each of the balance wheels spin at a different rate with a 5Hz balance for the chronograph and a 3Hz balance for the time. It all looks beautiful and is a treat to wear on the wrist for those who love watches because they love mechanical movements. Price for the Breguet Tradition Chronograph Independent 7077 is $78,900 in 18k rose gold and $79,700 in 18k while gold.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 01

It wasn’t until I put the first Carrera watch to come as a result of Jean-Claude Biver’s leadership of TAG Heuer on my wrist, that I could appreciate what he was trying to do with this new model – one that basically just looked like a skeletonized Carrera watch in early press pictures. This watch is going to be controversial among TAG Heuer lovers and it isn’t for everyone, but I think it is a positive move for the brand in its efforts to re-enliven itself as the demographic TAG Heuer. The brand once so popular with younger demographics had lost much of its entry-level appeal, being mostly interesting to more mature watch lovers with a soft place in their heart for the old days of Heuer and people like Steve McQueen. If TAG Heuer is going to be relevant to the younger demographic, it needs to appeal to their tastes with items that are more affordable. So what does that mean for this 45mm-wide steel and titanium Carrera watch with a dressed-up version of the in-house made caliber 1887 movement – that TAG Heuer is calling the caliber Heuer 01? It means TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver is borrowing from his own success at watch brand Hublot (also an LVMH group company) and offering something with the same type of aesthetic look as the modern Big Bang, but much more affordable and at TAG Heuer. It’s brilliant, will likely piss off a lot of TAG Heuer traditionalists, and will ultimately be a sales success. Price for the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 is 4,900 Swiss Francs.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Glashutte Original Senator Observer

Where did all the Glashutte Original Senator sport watches go, such as their Navigator pilot watches and their Sport Evolution models? The Swatch Group’s German watch maker has been focusing on very classic or retro timepieces over the last several years, even though they have really stepped it up in terms of complexity and visual quality. Still, Glashutte Original enthusiasts have been eagerly anticipating a return of Glashutte Original sport watches and the Senator Observer is… well, sort of that. We will call it a transitional model that is certainly sporty, but still with the conservative feel of the brand. The Glashutte Original Senator Observer comes in a 44mm-wide steel case with a black dial and lovely 18k white gold hands and super legible, lume-painted dial. Inside the watch is the caliber 100-14 automatic movement with a big date indicator, subsidiary seconds dial, and power reserve indicator. Best of all, it comes on a sporty bracelet, in addition to the black leather strap. This is a watch that can be dressed up or down and I think will appeal to a lot of people. Retail price for the Glashutte Original Senator Observer with leather strap is 9,900 Euros and 11,100 Euros on the bracelet.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition

The new Airboss Mechanical Black Edition watch collection from Victorinox Swiss Army takes the popular Airboss family of higher-end timepieces from the brand, and gives them an all-black case and red ring applied to the sapphire crystal. This three-hand model is handsome, legible, and, best of all, affordable. One thing we can typically say about Victorinox Swiss Army watches is that they offer a lot of value when measured against competitors. More so, even though the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition has a degree of modern looks and a strong masculine feel, this is nevertheless a watch with enough timeless design to keep it relevant on your wrist for years to come. Price for the Victorinox Swiss Army Airboss Mechanical Black Edition is $995.

Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2015 ABTW Editors' Lists

Sarpaneva Northern Lights

Stepan Sarpaneva produces much of his own timepieces personally in his workshop in Helsinki. An artist and machinist, he is best known for his distinctive “moon face” moonphase indicator display on many of his watches that is actually inspired by his own face. Quirky and original, timepieces like Sarpaneva’s strike a major chord with those who like good watches produced in exclusive batches by passionate artists. For 2015, Sarpaneva teams up with Black Badger to create the Sarpaneva Northern Lights which takes one of his most successful designs and adds three different Black Badger lume dials in either purple, blue, or green. Black Badger produces not lume paint, but actual luminant composite materials that could be absolute game changers for the watch industry. Limited to just eight watches each, the Sarpaneva Northern Lights watches aren’t just amazingly cool, they are likely the start of a major new material trend. Price for the Sarpaneva Northern Lights limited edition watches is 14,500 Euros each.

Keep up with our pre-, post-, and live Baselworld 2015 coverage here.

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Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The Zenith El Primero arguably is one of the world’s finest and most interesting mechanical chronograph movements, a caliber that is as refined as it is reliable. Over the decades, it has been modified in countless ways – from complicated calendars to tourbillons, many complications have found their way into the El Primero. The movement itself has been used by famed brands and industry giants, like Rolex, TAG Heuer and many others. The Zenith El Primero Synopsis is a new-for-2014 line of watches that is built around this movement, albeit in a watch that may as well go down in history under the name of Zenith El Primero Paradox – so let us find out why that is, exactly.

For the year 2014, Zenith watches brand ambassador Replica had two quite surprising – and equally controversial – announcements up its sleeve. First, it announced that it will start using non-in-house made movements (Sellita SW-300 to be specific) in its Elite line of watches and, second, it debuted the El Primero Synopsis collection, a more high-end, time-only selection that was built around the famed chronograph movement El Primero… without its chronograph function. Many were inclined to shout “Blasphemy!” at the brand, but, as usual, things do start to make a bit more sense as they unfold.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

First, allow us to have a few words about the Sellita-based Elite, to help better understand how the Synopsis fits into the picture. As per (now ex-)Zenith CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour’s claims, by 2014, Zenith 3100 watch Replica has reached the very limits of its output capacity at around 50,000 movements, which was coupled with a steady single-figure growth year over year. “Single-figure” may not sound like much, but even at 5-7% growth, that deceptively small number necessitates the expansion of annual output by at least a few thousand movements. That consequently requires more people, more machinery, more space, more supply of raw materials – which in turn, makes the company act like a Jenga tower: growing constantly to a size greater than ever before, but also not as secure and steady as it had been.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The ever increasing demand from different parts of the global market tends to trick companies into thinking that they are obliged to meet at least most of that extra demand. In this case, I presume Zenith (and its holding company LVMH) found that Sellita-supplied movements mean a relatively safe way of doing that, as it necessitates no stratospheric investments within the brand, and can be cut off relatively easily if the demand drops and/or if the expansion slows. Furthermore, Zenith hopes that this move will bring new customers to the brand thanks to a new and lower entry price point. Last but not least, the considerable margin on several-thousand dollar watches equipped with sourced movements may also have been a factor, making the expansion not just safe, but also profitable.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews
I’ve not talked about how 108,000 bph sounds yet. You can certainly hear it. The various pieces of the Aeronith-cased Defy Lab I had evaluated sounded just a little bit different. That tells me that as more watches have higher-frequency movements, more attention will need to be paid to case materials because of how sound waves leak out. Even minor differences in the cases (given the structure of foamy aluminum) changed the sound profiles from the 15Hz movements. It is a pleasant sound, but fast paced given its manic rapidity. The watch is also comfortable on the wrist – and looking at the dial with its ever-vibrating Zenith Oscillator offers a fun animation to watch when you want something to distract your eyes.Upcoming models of the Zenith Defy Lab will maintain the same 44mm wide, 14.5mm thick case (water resistant to 50m), but I don’t think they will be in Aeronith. They will also cost much less than these more exclusive pieces. The watch community will be impressed with the relatively reasonable price, which I believe will be around 10,000 Swiss Francs. It is a cost that no longer requires watch lovers to consider between a new timepiece and a new car. The watch also allows watch addicts to have new conversations about accuracy and the performance of watch movements as being something worth caring about. For years mechanical watch lovers more or less convinced themselves that thinking about accuracy was sort of silly because your standard cheap quartz watch will most always best even an expensive mechanical watch when it comes to accuracy.

With the Synopsis, however, we are looking at an offering that is much more in line with what we would expect to see from a blue-blooded manufacture like Zenith. The meaning of the word Synopsis is “a brief summary or general survey of something,” and that something, in this case, is the famed El Primero movement. It has been said a million times before, but let us say it again: debuted in 1969, many consider the El Primero to be the first automatic chronograph wristwatch caliber. Zenith started working on its development in 1962, and therefore it took them seven years to develop this high-beat (36,000 beats per hour) monster of a movement – and this was at a time when no computer aided design (CAD) programs were available.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Beyond the lack of CAD programs, there are dozens of other reasons why it took Zenith watches vancouver Replica seven years to come up with the El Primero – the same amount of time it took Patek to develop the Grandmaster Chime… The major challenges included lack of space – the automatic winding and all its wheels and support bridges, as well as the chronograph with its wheels, cams, and bridges, as well as the base movement with the date indication were to be crammed into a seemingly impossibly small space. This was topped with Zenith’s stubbornness to get the hugely challenging 5Hz speed out of the movement to make it the most accurate chronograph wristwatch ever made. Last but not least, the movement was designed from the ground up to be a fully integrated, inseparable whole.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

And with that, we have arrived to the “Paradox” nature of the Synopsis. First of all, it is this inseparable whole that has actually been separated for the Synopsis, ridding the El Primero from some of its chronograph parts, slimming down the original 6.60 millimeter thick movement (seen to the left above) to the Synopsis’ 5.58 millimeters (seen to the right). This seemingly negligible loss in thickness also indicates that not much was to be taken away: the El Primero really is a fully integrated movement, not allowing engineers to take a 2-3 millimeter thick module out and just run with it.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Second, this move shines light on Zenith’s rather conservative approach to the El Primero: it took them over 40 years to create the first watch that utilized the caliber’s capability of measuring 1/10th of a second (that happened with the Striking 10th in 2010, hands-on article here), and even more time to try and use the base of the movement in a collection offering the 5Hz speed and reliability, without the chronograph function (that was the Espada, in 2012).

With that, we should correct a common misbelief, and point out that the Zenith watches sale Replica El Primero Synopsis is not the first El Primero without a chronograph function – it was the Espada from two years ago which first pulled off this feat. Where the Synopsis stands out however, is that it offers a much more refined movement, which finally hacks (the Espada did not), and incorporates silicon parts in its construction.

Furthermore, the Zenith El Primero Synopsis offers a splendid look into the movement: one of its key design features is the large opening on the dial between the 8 and 12 o’clock positions. Under the uniquely shaped bridges, the fourth wheel, the escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance wheel are visible. The escape wheel and pallet fork shine in an iridescent hue of purple and blue, due to the fact that for this movement, they were crafted from silicon.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The Zenith El Primero Synopsis is an interesting offering in that, while it rids the El Primero of one of its key features, it also manages to refine the caliber in some interesting ways. A senior watchmaker of Zenith told me that the El Primero never previously offered a hacking function, simply due to the lack of space in the movement. Also, as per my understanding, most El Primero chronograph movements do not have silicon parts (there are but a handful of exceptions), while all Zenith El Primero Synopsis pieces come as standard with this upgrade.

The use of silicon components in the escapement is especially important when it comes to the El Primero. As I learned, one of the greatest challenges concerning the 5 Hz rate of the watch is linked to lubrication: this 25% increase from 4 to 5 Hertz means an exponentially greater wear on lubricants. In fact, Zenith had to develop new coating processes and lubricants in the 1960s to use for the original movement. Today, the use of silicon parts greatly eliminates this issue, as they require little to no lubrication, are lighter, more durable, and also require less frequent servicing. Last but not least, the silicon parts allow for a wider angle of lift in the escapement, making for higher amplitude and hence better timekeeping performance.

Zenith El Primero Synopsis Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews