Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

aBlogtoWatch has been producing some buying guides for eBay, and we’ve got a fresh new batch to share. Now, we know that many “watch people” know the ins and outs of how to buy, sell, and trade watches online. However, more casual or beginning people who don’t have the confidence of experience can find themselves overwhelmed, intimidated, and plain stressed out about the process. We hope our guides, which are designed to answer broader questions about watch buying as well as provide watch brand- and model-specific guides, provide a good frame of reference for anyone on the hunt for a timepiece. Click on the images to view the articles on eBay

On the heels of Baselworld, we know a lot of you guys saw some drool-worthy pieces. But what if your grail is out of reach and you need an attainable alternative that manages to hold some muster? Take a look at our alternatives to grail watches from Baselworld 2016 Part 1 where we look at the new Rolex Daytona and Patek Philippe 5930 World Time, and then check out Part 2, where we look at some options for those lusting after the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon and Chanel Monsier de Chanel. There’s nothing like getting your hands on your grail watch, but at least there are decent options to hold you over until you do.

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

Moving on from Baselworld, last time we focused on dive watches like the Rolex Submariner, so we thought we’d take a look at chronograph watches this time. We’ve already looked at the Rolex Daytona and the Omega Speedmaster Professional, but there’s no way leaving out the Zenith watches manchester Replica El Primero was an option, since it is properly iconic, arguably being the first automatic chronograph watch.

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

Sometimes the watches we discuss can be out of reach for many watch fans, so we thought this would be a good time as any to introduce our “What’s The Deal?” in which we explore affordable, more accessible models of popular yet costly watches. With that in mind, make sure to check out “What’s The Deal? The Omega Speedmaster Automatic” for Speedmaster lovers who just can’t quite go for the Moonwatch. In the same vein we look at watches that are surprisingly more affordable than a lot of people might guess for a range of budgets. Suggestions? Leave ’em in the comments!

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying

Moving on, we attempt to help prospective watch buyers with questions like “What watch is appropriate to wear to the office?” where we go through office hierarchy and discuss things like how an intern’s watch shouldn’t be nicer than the boss’s. On opposite ends of the spectrum, we take a look at buying gold watches on eBay and also at some of the toughest analog watches you can buy.

aBlogtoWatch eBay Watch Buying Guides: Grail Alternatives, Toughest Watches, Chronographs, & More Watch Buying
Zenith has always held a special place for me. From a fairly young age, not long after high school, the brand occupied an elite status in my mind. More specifically, it was and remains in my top two favorite brands of all-time, the other being Grand Seiko. In my mind, they offered two intriguing sides to the same high-frequency coin. Where Grand Seiko possessed a certain austerity to it, a degree of refinement I found in few, if any other places, Zenith was quite the opposite. Zenith might be a Swiss brand, but it always seems to have an American-grade boldness to it, a panache matched by none, at least none with Zenith’s horological pedigree. And thus, my two favorite watch brands were chosen: a restrained and sophisticated dress watch and a wild, avant-garde sports watch. Why can’t one watch just be both?Zenith, to their credit, almost had an answer to my question already: the criminally overlooked A273, a classic chronograph that had a measure of civility to it. Yet the A273 itself had committed an offense: it was offered during the same basic time frame as the legendary tri-color El Primero. Because of this coexistence, it was doomed to be overshadowed by its more prolific brother, which continues to be available today. Unlike the El Primero, the A273 was powered by a beautiful, yet far less revolutionary, hand wound movement. There it remained, largely unnoticed even among Zenith collectors, awaiting the time it too would receive the El Primero.

And finally, for the aspiring Paneristi, we have our quick introduction to buying Panerai watches on eBay. Finally, make sure to check out all of our guides here.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases

For Baselworld 2017, Zenith watches worth it Replica is releasing the Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open watch. Featuring a dial carved in sapphire, a dual-disc sun and moon phase, and for the first time in the Grande Date, a fully skeletonized architecture, it’s hard to not be both enamored and a little overwhelmed by the high-energy design. It’s not a surprise, as Zenith has a penchant for some truly polarizing and bold designs, and this watch is a natural progression in the El Primero line which now has something like over 70 watches in production.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases

The watch will come in two variations: a full stainless steel case, or two-tone stainless steel and pink gold. Both will feature a domed sapphire crystal on the front, and a sapphire case-back. And keeping its size in line with the rest of the Grande Date collection, measuring in at 45mm, this may seem like a larger, more imposing watch – but who would buy such a watch if they didn’t want people to see it? It would have been interesting to see a ceramic bezel version like with their Rolling Stones El Primero Skeletonized watch, in my opinion.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases
How will other watch makers respond? Will it become expected for watch makers to make claims about the accuracy of their watches? I am not sure that there will be an industry-wide move to mention actual numbers, but if there is a watch that comes out with a story about accuracy and some special technical elements, you can be damn sure we will point out if they omit actual performance numbers. I think what is more important is that a watch like this, with such a big emphasis on silicon, that isn’t stupid high in price, will force the industry to adopt next-generation watch movements with haste.Only a few companies in Switzerland are able to produce silicon parts. The tools needed for this task are very expensive, which includes the labor needed to operate and program them. Most watch brands that use silicon parts don’t make the components themselves. Is now a time to start given clear levels of increased need? Note again that investments by watch makers into silicon technology in traditional watchmaking has been going on for well over a decade. Though, little of this technology has trickled down into what we might call “affordable” timepieces. Jean-Claude Biver said watch makers will not produce their own silicon parts until they can also make parts for other companies in different industries.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases

Inside beats a 5Hz, high-frequency, in-house El Primero Calibre 4047B. The self-winding chronograph movement operates at 36,000vph and has a 50-hour power reserve. Because it beats at 5Hz, this allows for an accurate display down to a tenth of a second.

The dial shares the same layout as the previous versions, but for the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open, the architecture is on full display. The transparent date window remains between 1 and 2 o’clock with a red backdrop, and the moon-phase (complete with a 59-day double-lunar cycle) at the 6 o’clock position adds a splash of additional color to the traditional red, blue, and grey Zenith palette. Through the domed sapphire crystal, there is a lot to look at, as there are over 332 components, and the full stainless model does appear a bit busy at first glance. I personally feel that the pink gold model has better legibility, but the more I look at the stainless steel model, the more sporty and “Zenith” it feels.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Grande Date Full Open Watch Watch Releases

The steel model will have a bracelet option and a black leather strap and the pink gold model will have the option of black leather strap or brown chestnut leather strap. Personally, I typically lean towards a bracelet, though I can’t deny that the brown leather fits the two-tone variation perfectly. We’ll update with exact pricing but the “non-full open” models in steel and gold range in the $10,000-$15,000 so expect a bit more than that. zenith-watches.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

The Zenith watches second hand Replica Defy El Primero 21 is the first major new Zenith timepiece release under still new “interim CEO” Jean-Claude Biver. The head of the watch division at LVMH is now personally running both TAG Heuer and Zenith (Hublot and Bulgari are also LVMH watch brands), which is no doubt challenging given the opportunities each brand presents, as well as the current difficulties facing the luxury watch market. It was just a few months ago, in January of 2017, that Zenith announced Jean-Claude Biver would take the helm for the time being.

A few months is not enough time for anyone to come up with a product from scratch, yet this Zenith watches on ebay Replica Defy El Primero 21 feels very fresh and a new, welcome direction for Zenith as a high-end watchmaker. Though, as you will see, it is a well-curated assortment of skills and inventions pulled from the family of brands – as well as a totally new movement and concept for Zenith. Once again, Mr. Biver and team cleverly mix modernity and heritage for a watch thoroughly positioned “in the now” that allows us to optimistically ponder the future direction of where he will lead Zenith.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

With little time available and Baselworld 2017 to prepare for, Jean-Claude Biver needed something wow-worthy to debut to an audience very eager to see what his plan for Zenith is. Speaking to him long before he took over Zenith, he mentioned during a conversation in semi-jest that “Zenith could be renamed ‘El Primero’ as a brand” because of how important this signature movement is to the company. The story of the El Primero is not often discussed, but it is very fascinating.

I will only cover the basics for now. It debuted in 1969 as one of the first automatic chronograph movements and further benefited from having a 5Hz (versus 4Hz) regulation system speed. Operating at 36,000bph allowed the movement to be more precise over time and to measure 1/10 of a second as opposed to 1/8th of a second. In our world of digital instruments today that number hardly means anything, but to devotees of mechanical measuring devices, it is a big deal. Everyone loves speed.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

During the quartz crisis, the El Primero more or less stopped being made and was almost totally forgotten about, according to some testimonies. In my understanding, the designs for the Zenith watches how good Replica El Primero were almost lost, saved by a particular employee at Zenith who hoarded away the technical specifications intentionally, fearing that they would be trashed. It is because of that individual that the El Primero lived on when the mechanical watch became a luxury item sometime later in history. Today, the Zenith “El Primero” is a name that any even remotely educated watch lover is familiar with.

In my mind, the “El Primero 21” name signifies that the El Primero 21 movement is the “El Primero for the 21st century.” Aside from the name, the movement inside of the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch is not a traditional El Primero. It is, in fact, technology that began at fellow LVMH group brand TAG Heuer that has been refined and re-engineered for Zenith in a way that probably makes a lot more sense at the Zenith of today than the TAG Heuer of today. Jean-Claude Biver has always been smart about using established assets to create things which feel fresh.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

When I last saw this 1/100th of a second chronograph movement concept it was back in 2011 inside of the TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph (hands-on here). The dial layout is unchanged for the Zenith Defy El Primero 21, but the movement architecture itself is totally new, according to the brand, as is the use of materials such as Carbon-Matrix Carbon Nanotube used to produced the two balance wheels. This light, strong, and totally anti-magnetic material was not available in 2011, and is a major part of what makes this movement even more competitive today. Moreover, it isn’t in a watch priced at $50,000. More on the movement in a bit.

I spoke with Guy Semon – the “head engineer” at TAG Heuer who is among the most important technical people at the brand – about the El Primero 21 movement. Guy admitted that he was more or less the person who began the El Primero 21, which makes total sense because he is the guy to go to (as TAG Heuer and Zenith watches rolling stones Replica are in the same group), and Mr. Biver knows it. Guy started at TAG Heuer around 2004 when the brand needed someone to make the now famed Monaco V4 watch work. TAG Heuer never let him go, and for good reason.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

Mr. Semon is the man responsible for some of our modern era’s more technically challenging watch movements and also for helping TAG Heuer connect with Intel for the Connected smartwatch product. He is also the mind behind the Zenith El Primero 21 movement. According to Guy, while there are similarities between the El Primero 21 and the Mikograph, beyond sharing a dial layout, the two movements don’t share any parts, and the Zenith El Primero 21 is a movement that is totally fresh with an entirely novel system.

The last time most people recall hearing the “Zenith Defy” name was back in the Nataf era, when some extremely unfortunate design and marketing decisions were being made at Zenith. With that said, the Zenith watches 2015 Replica Defy name goes back several decades and is now back in the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – for the better. Case design for the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 is novel (inspired by the late 1960s, apparently), but blends aesthetic elements which are truly “Biverian” when looking at many of his other popular models from both Hublot and TAG Heuer.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

The debut Zenith Defy El Primero 21 will come in a 44mm-wide titanium case, in three versions. Zenith refers to the case design as “powerful,” and indeed it is more modernly masculine than pretty much anything Zenith makes right now (emphasis on modernly). With that said, this is very much a restrained design in the scheme of macho watch cases we’ve seen released under Mr. Biver’s leadership at various brands. It is much more elegantly simple than, say, a Hublot Big Bang, and certainly a bit more mature than the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01. Zenith says the case is inspired by the Original El Primero from 1969. While that may be the case, to me, it seems to have more in common with contemporary sports watches.

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

What the Zenith watches vs iwc Replica Defy El Primero 21 does have in terms of “Biver sports watch DNA” are angular edges mixed with larger rounded shapes, a seamless integration between case and strap, prominent crown and pushers, as well as a thoroughly skeletonized dial. This latter component is likely a crucial part of a larger strategy to distinguish mechanical watches from… well, those that aren’t mechanical. The notion likely being that when someone spends a lot of money on a mechanical watch for the movement, it isn’t a terrible idea to visually let them see the movement (both on the front and back of the case).

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch With 1/100th Of A Second Chronograph Watch Releases

Very little on the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch is shared with other Zenith timepieces save for some of the important dial elements such as the hands, hour markers, and color schemes. In addition to the main hour and minute hands, we see elements from existing Zenith timepieces such as the three-spoke subsidiary seconds hand and the colors of the chronograph subdials. I’ll have to wait until I see the Defy El Primero 21 watch hands-on make final conclusions about how the dial and skeletonized view of the movement work together, and how those elements affect legibility.

The three versions of the Zenith watches hong kong Replica Defy El Primero 21 for 2017 include a natural titanium case with a skeletonized dial (reference 95.9000.9004/78.R582), a black-coated titanium case with a skeletonized dial (reference 24.9000.9004/78.R582), and non-skeletonized dial and natural titanium case model (reference 95.9001.9004/01.R582). The latter model is going to be the more sober, classic-looking of the models, but the movement is interesting-looking, and modern visuals of the skeletonization will likely appeal to more people.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

SIHH 2017 is just about at a close, and we have seen at least a few very enticing new releases. I’ll begin by sharing some of my favorites first, followed by a look back at some of the other interesting happenings in the watch world. And we shall start with a review of two Japanese heavyweights. I’m referring to Infiniti’s flagship SUV, the QX80, and Seiko’s high-end Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 watch. How does Japan’s finest stack up against the rest of the world?

Moving on, we paid a visit to the small town of Oldenzaal, Netherlands, to Grönefeld. Helmed by Tim and Bart Grönefeld, who call themselves the horological brothers, Grönefeld is surely one of the most interesting independent watch brands around today.

And finally, we cast a spotlight on Zenith. The brand recently underwent yet another management change with LVMH’s Head of Watchmaking, Jean-Claude Biver, taking over the reins as interim CEO. We wonder, what would it take to get Zenith watches 2010 Replica back on top? What would you do if you were made CEO at Zenith?

1. F.P. Journe Vagabondage III Watch With First-Ever Digital Jumping-Seconds Display

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

I’m a big fan of F.P. Journe, and I couldn’t be happier with their biggest new release at SIHH this year. When people mention F.P. Journe, they don’t normally think about the Vagabondage watches, but I have always liked it for its unique case design and complications. For 2017, Journe revisits the Vagabondage and gives us the Vagabondage III, which has an all-digital display, not unlike A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk watches. However, it one-ups the Lange by sporting the first ever mechanical digital jumping seconds display. Check out this mega impressive watch here.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo PAM 671 Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

I think it is fair to say that it was Panerai who started the entire bronze watch craze when they released their first Bronzo, the PAM 382, in 2011. In 2013, they followed up with the PAM 507, which is essentially the same watch, but with an added power reserve indicator on the dial. Now, there is the PAM 671, which is really just a PAM 382 with a blue dial and newer, improved movement. But my, what a difference the blue dial makes. I’ll be surprised if Panerai doesn’t sell this one out quickly.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Car & Watch Review: Infiniti QX80 Limited SUV & Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

The pairing of the Infiniti QX80 and Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 is actually very apt. The QX80 is Infiniti’s flagship SUV, while Infiniti itself is Nissan’s luxury vehicle division. On the other hand, the Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 is one of Seiko’s most advanced watches, and Grand Seiko is, as we all know, Seiko’s line of high-end luxury watches. Oh, and Nissan and Seiko are both Japanese, of course.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Earth And Moon Watch Hands-On

Today, Zenith announces the brand new Zenith Defy Lab collection that contains what they claim is the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. The in-house made caliber ZO 342 automatic operates at 15Hz, which is faster (a good thing) than the vast majority of mechanical watches out there, including Zenith’s legendary 5Hz “high beat” frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement. This is a bold new step not only for Zenith, but also for the entire watch industry as it further legitimizes a controversial but ultimately wise creative direction. Zenith will debut the Defy Lab as a very limited set of 10 “piece unique” watches – at comparably “exclusive” prices. What about everyone else who will want one of these very compelling timepieces? Zenith makes it clear that the initial 10 Defy Lab watches are “only the beginning.” The Defy Lab’s movement will not only be put into regular production, but it will serve as a base for future complications. The first set of Defy Lab watches after this initial debut collector’s set is planned for production in 2018.

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Under the guidance of Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Cartier’s Director of Movement Creation, Cartier has established itself as a major player in haute horology. One of my favorite Cartier watches from recent times is the Rotonde De Cartier Earth and Moon watch and this particular version in pink gold is especially delightful. I guess it is because of the meteorite dial, which is a very appropriate material for a watch with a moon phase complication. Speaking of which, the moon phase complication in this watch is really clever. It shows the moon phase on demand and it does so by swinging a second meteorite disc into position to obscure the tourbillon and indicate the phase of the moon.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Greubel Forsey Signature 1 Limited Edition Steel Blue For USA & Red Gold Watches Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Last year, Greubel Forsey debuted its most accessible watch yet, the Signature 1. It is a simple time-only watch, with no tourbillon and does not even show the date. However, it is finished to Greubel Forsey’s usual superlative standards and will be produced in very small numbers. Only 66 will be made and these 66 watches will be divided into 6 different variants. Here, we shall take a look at two variants. The first comes in a steel case and blue dial and will be exclusive to the United States, and the other comes in an 18k pink gold case and was seen in Dubai.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

6. A Visit To The Grönefeld Watch Manufacture

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 20, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Oldenzaal, Netherlands, is a small city close to the German border and home to just 32,000 people. It is one of the most improbable places to find a world-class watch manufacture, but this is exactly where the Grönefeld watch manufacture is located. Run by two brothers, Tim and Bart Grönefeld, the brand, though young, already has a couple of Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve awards under its belt. Most recently, its 1941 Remontoire watch won the Men’s category at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. Take a look at their workshop here.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

Next, our article picks from around the Web »

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In theme, the new Zenith watches movement Replica Pilot Type 20 watch for 2016 isn’t truly a pilot watch at all (though it does still say “Pilot” on the dial), but it is now intended to celebrate the cafe racer biker community, also known as Ton-up boys. Thus, we have gone from hipster aviators to hipster motorcycle owners. To be honest, the cafe racer connection is the least interesting part of this watch for me, which instead should be celebrated as a fashionable high-end watch from Zenith that adds a nice flavor to their popular Pilot watch collection. So let’s take a closer look at the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up (formerly known as the Zenith Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit) timepiece and what is new about it.

[Note 8/25/2016: The name of the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watch was changed from Zenith Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit and we have updated the article to reflect that.]

Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith is working hard to find appeal in new enthusiast markets, and at the moment they seem to be focused on communities that celebrate vintage machines, be they planes, cars, or motorcycles. This might be a good tactic, but I would hope at least part of the brand’s current marketing efforts focus on their position as a true producer of in-house-made movements. The Zenith watches gold Replica Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watch contains one of Zenith’s lauded El Primero mechanisms which, here, is the in-house caliber 4069. The dial layout has been simplified to offer no date or calendar information, and merely the time with subsidiary seconds dial and a 30-minute chronograph. The movement otherwise is an automatic and, like all El Primero movements, it operates at 5Hz (36,000bph) with 50 hours of power reserve.

The discussion about mechanical wristwatch accuracy can be long and is way outside the scope of us introducing the Zenith Defy Lab. Suffice it to say that Zenith’s claimed accuracy of 0.3 seconds per day for the caliber ZO 342 movement in this first model is going to cause a lot of people to do a double take because of how impressive it is (for a mechanical watch). Note that for production models down the road (when there is less opportunity to spend so much time choosing the right parts), accuracy will be guaranteed to +/- 0.5 seconds a day… with no loss in rate results as the torque of the mainspring winds down. In other words, the rate results are a flat horizontal line, which is something that silicon technology has made much more readily available in mechanical time measuring tools.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Last year’s aviator watch from Zenith watches movement Replica was the lovely Type 20 Extra Special in bronze (hands-on here). The piece marked a return to using an in-house movement as well as a clever and trendy method of focusing on a vintage appeal to match the overall design of the watch. Large yet comfortable on the wrist, the Zenith Pilot collection continues here with the 45mm-wide case that is 14.25mm thick. While last year’s model was presented in a bronze case that will develop an aged “patina” over time, the 2016 Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up comes “pre-worn” in an “aged stainless steel” case. The resulting look has a gunmetal finish to it, and despite being an arguably gimmicky means of looking old, is highly refined and attractive as a result. Zenith makes excellent use of dial textures and colors to match the aged-theme, as well as an appropriate “green oily nubuck” leather strap (with a rubber lining) that matches the overall theme of the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watch remarkably well.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith was able to easily incorporate the two register chronograph into the design of the dial given the healthy availability of space on the face. This, of course, isn’t the first 45mm-wide version of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 to have a chronograph. Followers of the brand will recall the Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar watch that aBlogtoWatch reviewed here. The Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up is a bit less expensive than the more complicated previous chronograph model, and also adds a new look to the collection.

With 100 meters of water resistance and a chunky wearing demeanor, this is a real sports watch to go with the masculine look. Legibility with the large hands is excellent, and for those who like the “designer vintage” look, this could be an ideal timepiece. Some watch fans dislike the fashion-angle from the otherwise serious watchmaker – and it goes to show that you really can’t please everyone at the same time.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up Watch Hands-On Hands-On

On the rear of the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watch is a deep etching of a cafe racer on his motorcycle. This is similar to previous Pilot watch models that had images of vintage biplanes, etc. on the rear of the case. In fact, this caseback element is the only “cafe racer” part of the watch in terms of anything related to the visual composition of the watch. Again, my personal preference is to merely ignore the attempted connection between this pilot-style watch and enthusiast vintage motorcycle racing, as it feels a bit arbitrary – but it doesn’t really take away from my appreciation of the watch in general. I am actually curious to know what people who do consider themselves to be modern cafe racers think about the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watch, and if they feel that Zenith has effectively reached their target demographic with this model.

With its military feel and gunmetal-style case, I would have personally thought to theme this watch a bit differently. Though, despite its theme, the watch should look killer with the right leather jacket. Available soon, the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up (again, formerly called Zenith Heritage Pilot Cafe Racer Spirit) watch has a retail price of $7,100 USD. zenith-watches.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith CEO Aldo Magada Interview In Cuba On Cohiba Cigars Collaboration ABTW Interviews

Alfred Lung at aBlogtoWatch visited Havana, Cuba with Zenith for this story.

The annual Baselworld fair in Switzerland is often a mixture of hard work, constant back-to-back meetings, and the excitement of learning about new watches, products, and directions our favorite brands are taking over the next year. After a hard day at this year’s conference, a friend and I lit a cigar and puffed away the stress of the daily grind. Like most who have the social media bug, I posted a picture of me savoring my cigar at the end of the day.

At the beginning of May, I was surprised when my friends at Zenith had recognized my passion for cigars. Zenith informed me that they are producing some co-branded watches with Cohiba cigars and asked if I would be interested in traveling to Cuba to learn more. As a cigar and watch enthusiast, it was impossible for me to turn the offer down, despite 30 hours of flying time to get there from Hong Kong.

Zenith CEO Aldo Magada Interview In Cuba On Cohiba Cigars Collaboration ABTW Interviews

I landed in a hot and humid city. Havana’s worn and shabby aesthetics fade behind a vibrancy and untainted soul. The internet is an expensive luxury, so much so that access to social media and apps that we take for granted was almost impossible. But this forces you to focus on the real and the material in front of you. Beautiful old cars and colonial buildings mix with intoxicating Latin music, sumptuous food and a warmth and playful spirit in every Cuban you meet. The country’s spirit simultaneously asks you to enjoy the present and relax to contemplate past success and future glory.

Zenith CEO Aldo Magada Interview In Cuba On Cohiba Cigars Collaboration ABTW Interviews

The next morning, I met Mr. Aldo Magada, the dynamic CEO of Zenith watches Replica watches. Together we travelled to the co-branded watch unveiling at the Habanos factory. The collaboration is to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the legendary cigar brand, Cohiba. Zenith and Cohiba are celebrating the anniversary with three watches, the Christophe Colomb in rose gold, along with an El Primero Chronograph in rose gold and one in steel. What is immediately apparent is that both Zenith and Cohiba’s DNA and brand identities are central to the watch designs.

Zenith CEO Aldo Magada Interview In Cuba On Cohiba Cigars Collaboration ABTW Interviews

After the press conference concluded, I had the pleasure of trying the watches on whilst enjoying Cohiba’s cigars. I immediately gravitated to the Christophe Colomb. Like its predecessor, the sapphire crystal ball looks big but never sat uncomfortably on my wrist. What was an immediate pleasure in the new design is the visibility of Cohiba’s DNA and branding. The dial color and texture are instantly recognizable to fans of Cohiba cigars. Eye catching, soulful, and fun, the Christophe Colomb embraces the enjoyment of Cuba and the sophistication of Switzerland. Like the colonial buildings or beautiful 1950s cars that patrol Havana’s streets, this watch will still be in style for many years to come.

A pleasant trip to see the unveiling of the Zenith/Cohiba collaboration ended with lunch alongside Aldo at a beach side club, I had the chance to catch him for an interview.

Zenith CEO Aldo Magada Interview In Cuba On Cohiba Cigars Collaboration ABTW Interviews

Alfred Lung: Thank you very much for inviting me to Cuba. This is my first interview with the new CEO of Zenith watches 1970 Replica watches since Mr. Dufour left. First of all, I would like to ask you, what is your definition of haute horology?

Aldo Magada: Well, haute horology for us at Zenith is more, let’s say, a laboratory of research and finding new ways of expressing solutions for problems – like the zero gravity on the Christophe Colomb. So apart from our unique haute horology creations, more important for us is the industrial scale production, the stability it brings, and, I would say, the quality it delivers to the consumer.

As you know, we are a true manufacturer. For me, the manufacturer is not only about having your own calibers, but also to able to equip 100% of production with our own calibers. There are only very few [brands] who are able to do that. Since ETA began to limit supply, many brands started offering their own movements. And they could be great movements, but they only represent 15% – 20% of their production. We are delivering 100% of our products with manufacturer standard, same as Patek, as Rolex, etc. And I think it’s important when you take responsibility for having not only designed the case, but also the engine. Toward the consumers, you have a great responsibility to ensure that the people are happy when they are buying, and happy for the long term. That also means we are totally capable to maintain all the El Primero movements.

You know, El Primero is 47 years old, so you can imagine the number and different kinds of El Primero calibers we have released. So that’s something which is also part of the brand’s responsibility to the consumers, to maintain the product for a long time because it is we alone who must please the consumers when they put the credit card on the counter. We want to make sure that he is happy for the long term.

Alfred: A lot of consumers think a watch is eternal in many ways because it can be restored. So are you saying that you can restore nearly all the watches Zenith watches defy xtreme Replica has sold?

Aldo Magada: I would say yes. But, there is always a “but.” Let’s say, theoretically, yes. Practically, it’s a question of time. Sometimes a customer gives us a watch from the 1970s that you we can easily maintain, no big deal. But if the dial is totally broken, you have to replace it. When we have no more dial of this reference in the inventory (because we do keep a big inventory), we have to redo the dial. If we redo the dial, it’ll probably cost half the price of the watch itself, and that’s something we have to explain to the consumers. So I would say, yes, we could – but not at any price, and not within 10 days. It’s like the vintage car, it’s like the vintage bike. And people normally understand this. After all, it’s a question of, could I afford a new dial for my father’s watch which costs US$5,000? I exaggerate it a little bit.

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Today, luxury automobile maker Land Rover and Swiss watch maker Zenith officially announce a new relationship with the debut of the Zenith El Primero Range Rover Special Edition watch collection. One watch with two different strap options attempts to merge the worlds of both companies, and the result actually feels pretty good. Car and watch brand relationships have a spotty past, but in recent times they have been getting better – at least in terms of the resulting products.

Hublot (both Zenith watches 60s Replica and Hublot are part of the LVMH group) has had a lot of success with its official watchmaking relationship with Ferrari, and I’ve also enjoyed collaborations such as Breitling with Bentley, Ball with BMW, and Bremont with Jaguar. Land Rover and Jaguar are part of the same group, so now both of their car brands are involved with high-end watchmakers.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Land Rover Range Rover of 1970 and the Range Rover of today.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Zenith CEO Aldo Magada and Land Rover Chief Design Officer Gerry McGovern.

Rather than focusing on the entire Land Rover brand, this debut product from Zenith is specifically focused on the Range Rover collection of luxury SUV vehicles. Range Rover models are the most high-end that Land Rover produces, and were originally introduced in 1970, just one year after the famed El Primero movement housed in these timepieces. That year, 1969, saw the introduction of the first automatic self-winding mechanical chronograph movements. Three companies came out with automatic chronograph movements that year including Seiko, Heuer, and Zenith with the El Primero which, with modern updates and improvements, remains a very well-respected and desirable mechanical movement today.

Zenith and Land Rover don’t waste our time by waxing poetic too much on why they are partnering. They don’t need to. The good looking and high-performance El Primero movement is one of the world’s best luxury sport watches, and the Land Rover Range Rover, both beautiful (in my opinion) and capable, is one of the world’s most popular luxury SUVs. The resulting watch is relatively humble, restrained, and handsome. Most importantly, it does look like something that would be aesthetically fitting on your wrist while driving around in a Range Rover both on- and off-road.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

In Los Angeles, where I live, Range Rovers are quite plentiful. It actually seems like a very large percentage of the cars Land Rover makes end up here. I was lucky enough to be with Land Rover when they debuted the current generation Range Rover back in 2013. I sort of fell in love with vehicles back then given my appreciation of their design and how they drive. I also know that Land Rovers of today are far more reliable than they used to be. With that said, they certainly aren’t cheap, and the people who can afford them are typically also the type of people who can shell out just under $10,000 for a cool timepiece.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

There is no rule that says people who drive Range Rover cars will want a Range Rover watch. In fact, some might argue that matching the two is a bit too much accessory pairing. With that said, it is a way of showing your appreciation for Range Rover when not driving one, or if you just like what the brand stands for in general. Zenith made the decision to include the Range Rover name on the dial right under the Zenith one. It doesn’t stand out too much, but it is there. You’ll see a bit more dual branding on the back. I would say the incorporation of both names is subtle – which is praise for Zenith, as some of their recent dual-branded watches (with various enthusiast organizations around the world) has been a bit much for most people’s tastes.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

At 42mm wide in a “ceramised” (I’m thinking black ceramic-coated – which is what this actually is) matte-finished aluminum case, the Zenith El Primero Range Rover Special Edition watch should be quite light on the wrist. Zenith remarks that the use of aluminum for the case material is a nod to the chassis material of the Range Rover. Aluminum is rare to find in high-end watch cases because, while it is light, it is usually fragile. Thus, I am interested to see how this ceramised aluminum case feels in person – if successful, it could make the watch appealing to people who don’t even care about the Range Rover relationship.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

The dial is all dark tones and subtle with vertically brushed finishing and minimalist design touches. It really does feel in many ways how a modern Zenith pocket watch 5011k Replica El Primero Chronograph should. The available straps are meant to remind one of the leather seat interiors of Range Rover cars. The straps are lined with rubber (comfortable) and on the outside are ivory or blue colored perforated calfskin leather matched to a DLC-coated black titanium folding deployant.

Inside the Zenith El Primero Range Rover Special Edition watch is the in-house-made Zenith El Primero caliber 400B automatic movement. It operates at a quick 5Hz (36,000 bph) for extra accuracy over time and has a power reserve of 50 hours. You can see the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window.

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Zenith El Primero Range Rover Watches Debut Official Relationship With Land Rover Watch Releases

Water resistant to 100 meters, useful, and sporty, you should be able to take this Zenith El Primero Range Rover watch anywhere you would want to take your Range Rover car – and that means into the wild or to some fancy society event. Again, Zenith and Land Rover don’t try to dress up this relationship too much – which is something I appreciate. It is a marketing relationship, but done in a natural way with a cool product that I think enough Range Rover and Zenith fans will appreciate. I look forward to checking out the reference 24.2040.400.27.R796 and 24.2040.400.27.R797 Zenith El Primero Range Rover Special Edition (which, translated, means that they aren’t limited per se, but not necessarily fully part of the watch brand’s permanent collection) hands-on soon. Price is US$7,700. zenith-watches.com

For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith watches canada Replica is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The newest limited edition Christophe Colomb watch from Zenith is meant to honor The Rolling Stones. This is the third or fourth watch produced by Swiss Zenith in collaboration with the popular and now legendary rock and roll group. Debuted at Baselworld 2016, the new Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones was “officially” debuted on March 25, 2016, when The Rolling Stones held a “landmark” concert in Cuba – a first for the group.

At almost a quarter-million dollars in price, it isn’t likely that many (or any) of the Cuban concert goers will be able to afford this timepiece – and it is limited to only five pieces. Sentiments over the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch were mixed at Baselworld as collaboration timepieces such as this are known to be polarizing and attract strong feedback.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

If you happened to be a certain age in the 1960s or 1970s, and happen to have been fortune enough to earn more than your share of life’s rewards, then perhaps you can both afford and appreciate the concept of an extremely high-end The Rolling Stones watch – especially if the band’s music was influential in your youth. Pretty much everyone I know has wide familiarity with their music, but how many people want a high-horological reminder of that fact on their wrist? At least five people, for sure. Timepieces such as this can be oddly conflicting for even the most ardent of watch lovers unless they have that perfect balance of interest in both the timepiece and the theme (in this case, The Rolling Stones). Otherwise, the concept can come across as a dud. Nevertheless, it works well for those who are taken by what Zenith watches headquarters Replica has done in this and other examples of combining horological tradition with history and/or pop culture.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The first Zenith and The Rolling Stones watch came out in 2014 (covered on aBlogtoWatch here), and it is interesting that the partnership continues. That must mean people on both sides are seeing success with these products. The Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones is easily the highest-end timepiece born of the relationship. The base watch is the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb (hands-on here) which was originally debuted in 2010 – though the underlying mechanical technology was used by Zenith for a few years prior to that.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At 45mm wide in 18k rose gold, the watch case is 14.35mm thick, but goes to 21.4mm thick where the sapphire crystal “bubble” for the “zero-gravity” regulation system is mounted. The concept is interesting and fun to play with. What you have is a highly complex spherical regulation system consisting of the balance wheel and escapement which is designed on a gimbal. Weighted from the bottom, the idea is that no matter which direction you move the watch in, the regulation organ remains upright. Theoretically, this is meant to enhance accuracy. It is also fun to play with when wearing the watch and moving your wrist around…

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The movement inside the watch is the in-house-made Zenith El Primero caliber 8804. Manually-wound, the “high-beat” mechanical movement operates at a fast frequency of 5Hz (36,000bph), which is designed to make the movement more accurate over time. The movement is produced from 479 parts, which includes the 171 components for the “gyroscopic carriage.” Functionally, the movement offers the time (with separate subdial for the seconds) and a power reserve indicator. These dials are not ultra easy to read, as Zenith dedicated much of the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones’ dial to celebrating the main theme of the watch.

With The Rolling Stones’ logo, open-lips-with-tongue symbol, and British Union Flag, each dial is hand enamel painted with gold appliques for the hands and index markers. If you are really into The Rolling Stones, it is a cool concept, for sure.

While it lacks unnecessary writing or a date complication, the tachymeter remained, as well as the distinctive 3/6/9 lines on the minute sub-dial. Those were, at the end of the day, counterproductive to the task of simplification, but without them, the watch would lose almost any connection to the A273. Pursuing simplicity is, in our view, a good thing, but left unchecked it would inevitably lead to a uselessly blank dial. It must be balanced with other design goals.he dial itself had to be both understated yet have a charming, dynamic character that keeps it from ever becoming boring. The best way to accomplish that, we’ve found, is via a sunburst finish. A good sunburst finish, like this one, almost disappears in some light, appearing flat and non reflective, yet in other lighting, usually more direct, it comes alive with vibrant, brighter colors. In these photos, with a white light box and perfectly even lighting, the dial comes off almost as silver, but in most situations, it’s a more appreciable champagne, or as some have commented, cream.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Even though Zenith and The Rolling Stones have been in a business relationship for a few years, I have yet to see and actual images of the band members themselves wearing Zenith watches or actually speaking about the collaboration. This isn’t an ambassador relationship, so I don’t expect to see Mick Jagger or Keith Richards solely wearing Zenith timepieces, but the collaboration feels as though it is missing the more overt approval of the band members themselves. Understanding some of the less sexy logistical and business realities behind such deals, I can easily fathom some of the barriers to making this happen, but I feel as though Zenith owes it to themselves to connect the people behind The Rolling Stones with the Zenith watches dedicated to their work a bit more at this point in the relationship.

As stated, Zenith will produce just five pieces of the limited edition Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch, which on the attached brown alligator strap has a retail price of $243,000 USD. zenith-watches.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

One, the most famous post-revolution Cuban cigar, debuted in 1966; the other, one of the most distinguished Swiss chronograph calibers, originally introduced in 1969. Now, in 2016, they come together as the limited Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

First things first, though: Fine hand-rolled cigars paired with fine watches are, of course, nothing new. In The Cigar Report, a quarterly periodical I once edited, I wrote a series of pieces entitled “Watch in a Box,” the box in question being a cigar box or humidor. The magazine itself was murdered by the 2008 financial crisis, but “Watch in a Box” could have lived, theoretically, pretty much forever.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

Second, this isn’t even the first Cohiba cigar watch — about which, more in a moment. But with the fiftieth anniversary of the most iconic post-revolution Cuban cigar brand at hand, Zenith watches los angeles Replica (which has been busy in the vintage motorsports world of late) has very much made the right move here.

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

A little history: Cigars and wristwatches have been sold side by side since 1932. That was the year Alfred Dunhill Ltd. patented its first wristwatch (Dunhill pocket watches debuted in 1903; watches and clocks set into cigar and pipe lighters came right after). Dunhill, now a Richemont company, was far more a gentleman’s tobacconist up through the 2000s than the modern English men’s fashion house it has become over the last handful of years.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

Then, there was Cuervo y Sobrinos. What Cartier was to Paris, Bulgari to Rome, and Tiffany & Co. to New York, Cuervo y Sobrinos was to (pre-Castro) Havana. As the city’s top purveyor of jewelry and timepieces — Churchill, Hemingway, and Clark Gable were clients — CyS worked with a number of Swiss watchmakers (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Universal Genève among them) that produced both double-signature and private-label timepieces. It was located in Havana’s Old Town, and as such, corporate real fábrica de tabacos clients commissioned countless custom-dial watches with logos such as the classic Partagas script to be given as executive and retirement gifts. Vintage Cuervo y Sobrinos, mostly from the 1950s, pop up often on auction sites. Today, the modern incarnation of CyS names its models after cigar vitolas (the unique cigar measures that combine length, girth, and shape), and most of them come in a humidor, not just any old box.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

Another notable tobacconist, Davidoff of Geneva, which these days stays far closer to its roots as one of the world’s preeminent cigar makers, partnered with IWC Schaffhausen in the 1980s to produce a small capsule collection of watches evocative of very early Hublots. Edward Sahakian, owner of Davidoff London, recalls that the late Dr. Ernst Schneider, who acquired both the Davidoff of Geneva boutique and the Davidoff cigars made in Cuba from Zino Davidoff in 1970, “had one of those watches and used to wear it all the time. His was a gold watch with a black leather strap.” (It also came in two-tone and solid steel.) Today, Zino Davidoff, a spinoff luxury watch-and-accessories brand created to skirt draconian European Union regulations governing tobacco promotion, carries on the tradition set forth by the Davidoff x IWC watches.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

On and on it goes: A limited-edition tobacco-brown Hermès Cape Cod 1928 that came in its own humidor was created to commemorate the opening of the Hermès boutique on Wall Street (which still stands today); a Blancpain Quantième Perpétuel GMT (which had a tobacco-hued dial) and a Bell & Ross 126 XL Edición Limitada, both of which came housed in a humidor; and even Swatch made a cigar watch with the image of a full-size cigar running from one end of the strap through the dial to the other end. Meanwhile, Michel Perrenoud, a now-retired maker of watch boxes who was based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, went on to become a preeminent humidor manufacturer, famous for his pyramid-shaped caves à cigares. More recently, the intertwined strands of watchmaking and cigar rolling have been knitted together via the ongoing collaboration between Hublot and Arturo Fuente, the premium cigar maker from the Dominican Republic, which produces the highly coveted limited-production Fuente Fuente Opus X cigars. That partnership has yielded two limited-edition timepieces thus far: the King Power Arturo Fuente and the Classic Fusion Arturo Fuente ForbiddenX. The latter features actual tobacco leaves in the dial and was even offered as a tourbillon.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

Then there was the first “Cohiba” watch made by Frédérique Constant — a project with which I’m familiar, given that I initiated the partnership when I was creative director of General Cigar Co., maker of Macanudo and the U.S. versions of Partagas, La Gloria Cubana, and of course, Cohiba. (Well, the Dominican version, anyway, known in cigar circles as “Cohiba Red Dot” to distinguish it from its Cuban counterpart.) This limited-edition Cuban watch came in a glass-lidded humidor, but unlike most others, this particular humidor-cum–watch box came fully stocked with cigars.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition Watch Watch Releases

All of which brings us to the all-new limited-edition Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Cohiba Edition, with 50 examples in 18-karat rose gold and 500 in stainless steel. The partnership could be a veritable (rose) gold mine for Zenith: Never has Habanos S.A. — the export and global-marketing arm of Cubatabaco, Cuba’s state tobacco company, with more than 20 pre-revolution cigar brands and 10 post-revolution — entered this kind of agreement. Given the voracious, moneyed Havana-cigar set, many of whom flock to the annual Habanos Festival, this could yield big dividends for Zenith and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton watches for years to come. (The 2016 Habanos Festival, the eighteenth of its kind, attracted 2,000 attendees from 60 countries, and the recent loosening of restrictions on Americans’ ability to travel to Cuba and buy cigars there certainly won’t hurt.)

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Here at aBlogtoWatch, we have covered our fair share of chronograph watches, and oftentimes they can be bunched into the “sportier” side of life. This isn’t to say that there aren’t chronographs out there that can be seen as dressy; in fact, with so many brands evolving their lines to include new materials and classier touches, the range of options have grown vastly to broaden the role that a chronograph can serve.

Whether it be a cleaner, uncluttered dial or a gold case, a chronograph can be just as much at home in a suit as it can with jeans and a t-shirt. Foregoing any loud color choices, styling, and general “sportiness,” these dressy chronographs are subtle without coming off stuffy or too formal – classy with something of an edge, you could say. The goal when looking for one is to find what works best for you, and we have compiled a list that should serve as a great “starting point” to your personal collection. With these things in mind, let’s take a look at just a few of your options.

Bulgari Octo Velocissimo Ultranero Chronograph

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

With its octagonal case, dressed up to shine thanks to a total of over 100 facets, polished and applied indices and a deep black dial, this Bulgari Octo Velocissimo strikes a rare balance between masculine, sporty design, and powerful restraint. Bulgari offers several variants in the Octo collection, so you can go from this all steel version all the way to the even more serious-looking version with a combination of a black DLC case and an 18k gold bezel, hands and indices.

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

It is not easy to successfully mix timeless, elegant design with unique treats. Thanks to this powerful mixture of curves and hard angles, shining bright and brushed surfaces, and a relatively small 41mm wide case, the Bulgari Octo Velocissimo does manage to tick a lot of boxes. The movement is a Zenith El Primero-based BVL328 that is stunning to view through the sapphire crystal back. Pricing starts $9,900 for the steel cased version on the black leather strap.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

It would be hard to make a list like this without including the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph. One of Germany’s finest watchmakers, Lange has never really been about large watches – and we have all forgotten about that experimental Lange 31 that was 46mm wide, right? The 1815, with its sleek white gold case, thin lugs and discreet, rectangular pushers is as classic in its look as they get. Chronographs of today do tend to be too bulky for the sake of being bulky, but at 39.5mm, this watch is ideally sized to suit its reserved wrist-presence.

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Powered by the exquisite Caliber L951.5, the 1815 has a healthy power reserve of 60 hours. This particular A Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph Boutique Edition is professional-looking even with the added pulsometer on the flange ring and, with a dark-blue leather strap, should have no trouble to be matched to whatever you put on for your suit-up day. It won’t be on every other wrist either with a price of 49,000 Euros.

Cartier Rotonde Chronograph

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Dressy elegance and Cartier are a match made in heaven. With this Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph (Reference CRWSRO0002), Cartier succeeded in designing a timepiece that truly embodies the exquisite finishing and classic styling the brand is known for. Some could argue that the dial is a bit busy, and though it might be, the large hands and trademark Cartier Roman numerals all make for above-average-legibility.

The stainless steel case is pictured here, but Cartier also offers the Rotonde in 18k white or pink gold – and even with the steel you, of course, also get the added touch of the blue spinel cabochon. . Consider this piece is powered by the in-house caliber 1904-CH MC and you have not only a beautiful watch, but also the added bragging rights of a proprietary movement. Priced at $9,050, the Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph is a true classic – albeit arguably not one with the most competitive price.

Vacheron Constantin Historique Cornes De Vache 1955 Chronograph

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

The Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes De Vache 1955 revives vintage chronograph vibes like hardly anything else released in recent years. At 38.5mm, this platinum reinterpretation of Vacheron’s Reference 6087 wears a little smaller than your average chronograph, and the famed “cow-horn” lugs add to the vintage-inspired touch. Its white dial is elegant and straight-forward and its thin baton hands are just the right length.

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

The in-house Calibre 1142 is the epitome of classic mechanical chronograph movement design, and the case’s sapphire crystal back permits an excellent view. The modest size of the Cornes De Vache, again a plus here, allows it to fit nicely under shirt cuffs and the dark alligator strap is smart and safe choice. Price, even with the platinum case and the remarkable movement, is up there at $75,000.

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Patek Philippe 5170R-010

The Patek Philippe 5170R-010 has a rather similar dial layout to the Cartier and the Lange we have looked at above – and yet, the 5170R ends up being an incomparably different watch. Its dauphine hands, applied Breguet numerals and (relatively speaking) generously sized, 39.4 millimeter-wide rose gold case all make for a more powerful, and yet more classical look.

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Patek Philippe does offer the 5170 in a few different versions, but it really is the rose gold (with either a white or black dial) that combines traditional with contemporary. Run by Patek’s hand-wound CH 29-535 PS, this is yet another look at the highest levels of traditional chronograph movement architecture. All this magnificence and the Patek name do come with a matching price: the Patek Philippe 5170R-010 is priced at $81,000. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Starting Point: Best Dressy Chronograph Watches ABTW Editors' Lists

Given the nature of this list, I would be remiss if I left out the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph. This watch makes the list for several reasons, first of which is its ability to blend in or stand out depending on your attire. The trademark AP “grande tapisserie” dial is available in a number of colors and is paired with either stainless steel or 18k gold case variants. The famous avant-garde styling of the Royal Oak lends itself well to a dressier nature and the stunning link band makes for a perfect combination.

You can change the vibe of the Royal Oak Chronograph easily by simply matching it to either a rubber strap, black or brown alligator options, or AP’s amazing bracelets – which are, of course, available in gold or steel. The movement cannot measure up to those offered by AP and VC, but the solid 2385 automatic caliber has sure been around long enough to be tried and proven by now. In gold, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph is priced at $38,500.