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It is true that Zenith’s new Defy case feels a bit like that of the Hublot Big Bang. It isn’t a bad thing or an accident. Biver has long since found out that most new or younger watch lovers prefer something more bold, more edgy, more masculine, and certainly more visible than most vintage timepieces. For that reason, Zenith is smart to combine exciting technology with a spirited design. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a watch brand debut a new movement or technical concept into a timepiece that looks like a boring dress watch. Are those conservative watch buyers the first ones to jump on something new? Heavens no. Another interesting conversation piece about the Defy Lab is how much of a showcase it is of Biver’s policy of “sharing” among the brands. The Zenith Defy Lab might be assembled at Zenith, but the case is made at (and developed by) Hublot, and the movement is produced (and developed) at TAG Heuer.The first 10 pieces of the Zenith Defy Lab watch will come in a 44mm wide case produced from something else which is exotic known as “Aeronith.” Hublot invented it at part of their materials science division that came up with things such as red ceramic and magic gold. Aeronith (or “the Swiss cheese of aluminum” as you might call it) is actually produced at Hublot’s facility in Nyon. Aeronith is apparently similar to aluminum alloys used in the naval world because it is both strong and corrosion-resistant. Aluminum is rarely used in watches because it is relatively fragile – but in special forms can prove to be a useful material. In person, Aeronith certainly feels impressively light, and in a lot of ways has the visual appearance of concrete (in a cool way).

Interview: Jean-Claude Biver On The Past, Present, & Future Of The Swiss Watch Industry ABTW Interviews

Mr. Jean-Claude Biver recently invited aBlogtoWatch into his home for a candid interview about where the high-end Swiss watch industry is going, and where it has come from. Brimming with stories and explanations about the companies and people who make some of the world’s most iconic or interesting watches and leader of the LVMH Watch Division that puts TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith under his supervision, Jean-Claude Biver delights us with his personality, humor, wit, and rich collection of stories that make being a watch enthusiast all the more tangible for us.

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Jean-Claude’s opinions and insight are important because he is considered today’s most effective and talented watch brand manager when it comes to innovative marketing practices, synergistic “bridge-building” relationships, and helping to bring interesting products to market. A life-long veteran of the Swiss watch industry, Jean-Claude Biver is also a seasoned watch collector himself. Being personally interested in timepieces has arguably allowed this “product-focused” luxury watch brand executive to bring the most compelling products to market, while also satisfying his own expectations for product quality and design.

Interview: Jean-Claude Biver On The Past, Present, & Future Of The Swiss Watch Industry ABTW Interviews

Jean-Claude Biver currently directly manages or oversees TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith, which are LVMH portfolio brands. He has a broad level of oversight and power to set actions in motion. Jean-Claude has earned a unique status in the watch industry because he is known for having an accelerated ability to “get stuff done,” which is usually a serious challenge as watchmakers are typically known for their conservative stance toward taking new actions and making “risky” decisions. One can easily attribute a lot of Jean-Claude Biver’s success to simply being able to get more things done than many of his colleagues.

Interview: Jean-Claude Biver On The Past, Present, & Future Of The Swiss Watch Industry ABTW Interviews

Jean-Claude Biver, President du Conseil d’administration de Hublot, CEO de Tag Heuer et Directeur du pole horloger LVMH. Nyon, Novembre 2015 © Fred Merz | lundi13

At this point in his career, Jean-Claude Biver works out of choice much more so than out of necessity. To him, the ability to bring fun watches into existence seems to make it all worth it. Once keenly interested in all areas of the industry, more recently Jean-Claude Biver has had the fortune which allows him to narrow his focus on his brands and colleagues. With that said, we always relish in hearing stories about the people and occurrences that helped make the watch industry – both the beautiful and fractured parts – what it is today.

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Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

We have a couple of biggies in this last round-up for the month of June. We begin first with Vacheron Constantin’s epic Les Cabinotier Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 watch, a watch that combines 23 complications into a case that is just 13.6mm thick. Next, we have a brand new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch, so every new perpetual calendar watch from them is a little special. In this round-up, we take a look at the very charming new Ref. 5320G. And from the Land of the Rising Sun, we have the Citizen Eco-Drive One, the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Find out how Citizen managed to create a solar-powered watch that is just 2.98mm thick.

Elsewhere, we have stories from the world of independent watchmaking, beginning with the news of Peter Speake-Marin leaving his eponymous brand. Find out what Peter will be up to next. To wrap things up, we visit the workshop of one of the most revered and prominent independent watchmakers, the creator of the iconic Antiqua and the man behind the epic Harry Winston Opus 3, the one and only Vianney Halter.

1. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 is a watch of grand numbers. But you probably already know that from its imposing name. 5 years of development, 23 complications, 6 barrels offering over 500 hours of power reserve, 514 components, and a caliber that, in spite of all its complications, is just a mere 13.6mm thick. But all of that is dwarfed by its $1,000,000 price tag. It is a thoroughly impressive watch and we got the chance to get up close and personal with it recently. Check out our report by hitting the link below.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5320G Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Aeronith is very light (2.7 times lighter than titanium, and 1.7 times lighter than standard aluminum) and also durable. The formation process (which is patented by Hublot) boils aluminum in some manner as to create air bubbles. When it dries, Aeronith takes on a foam-like texturing, and the pores are said to be filled in with a special polymer. I don’t know how much Aeronith will be used in future watch production, but I have a feeling Hublot and its sister brands will make use of the exotic material when they see fit – such as for these 10 unique watches. The issue is that each case is simply very time consuming to produce.Each of the 10 debut Zenith Defy Lab watches has a slightly different look mixing silver and gold-toned hour markers and hands with different dial and strap colors. It feels a bit like Zenith’s prototype collection where they tested out what the production models might look like – but honestly each looks cool (I’m partial to the green). Buying one of these 10 pieces (which are all sold out) came with some special perks. Not only do you as a customer get to be at the launch event with us members of the watch media, but they also get to take a watch home with them. The buyers of each of these piece unique watches also get a Zenith manufacture visit, an “exceptional gift box,” (which I will admit is pretty nice) as well as rare bottles of Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes white wine.

Patek Philippe is widely credited for giving us the first perpetual calendar wristwatch. As such, a new perpetual calendar watch from Patek Philippe is always something of an occasion, especially for the hardcore Patek collectors. For 2017, Patek Philippe released a new perpetual calendar watch called the Ref. 5320G, which adapts and combines traits of various vintage Patek perpetual calendar watches. It’s a charming watch for sure, with an interesting stepped case construction, creamy ivory dial, and unique syringe-style hour and minute hands. For readers lucky enough to be considering a new perpetual calendar, this has got to be one of your top considerations.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Citizen Eco-Drive One Watch Review

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

In the world of quartz watches, the Japanese reign supreme. After all, it was a Japanese company – Seiko – that gave the world its first quartz watch. Apart from Seiko, Citizen is another one of the world’s largest manufacturers of quartz and digital watches. Citizen is perhaps most famous for its Eco-Drive watches. First introduced around 1995, these are solar-powered watches that had solar cells hidden under the dial, allowing them to have a cleaner and more pleasing look. Last year, Citizen announced a new breakthrough Eco-Drive watch aptly called the Eco-Drive One, which is just 2.98mm thick, making it the world’s thinnest solar-powered watch. Here’s our review of this engineering marvel.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Bulova Moon Watch Chronograph 98A186 For 2017 Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Only a handful of brands can lay claim to having been on the moon. Omega is perhaps the most famous of them all, but so has Bulova. Despite Omega being the official watch of for missions to the moon, that didn’t stop astronauts from wearing additional watches of their own. One of such watches to make its way to the moon was a chronograph by Bulova worn by astronaut Dave Scott. Bulova, keen to impress upon the world its space credentials, released a modern replica of the watch that astronaut Dave Scott wore to the moon last year. For 2017, they are updating that modern reissue with a new darker and stealthier model that you see here.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Chanel Monsieur De Chanel Watch In Platinum With Black Enamel Dial Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends June 30, 2017 ABTW Round-Ups

Chanel is arguably more famous for its ladies handbags and fragrances, but last year, Chanel made headlines for releasing a new men’s watch called the Monsieur de Chanel. By all accounts, it is a great watch. I love the styling and it even has an in-house movement designed by the extremely talented Romain Gauthier. For 2017, Chanel is introducing a new version that comes in a platinum case and a gorgeous black grand feu enamel dial. Gorgeous, that’s one word that I never thought I would use to describe a Chanel watch.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

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The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Good design, whether in the world of watches or automobiles is paramount. I will give anything a fair shake if it appears to have been crafted with careful consideration, even if it is something that doesn’t directly appeal to my sensibilities. Take the current line of products from Land Rover, for example. I prefer classic sports cars to the latest sport utility vehicles, but with that being said, there’s something inarguably intriguing about them, especially their top tier vehicle line, the Range Rover. As part of the relationship with Swiss watchmaker Zenith, the Zenith El Primero Range Rover watch was released alongside it, and while I’ll also be discussing that throughout, this article is going to focus more on the SUV.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

I’ve spent a good amount of time doing highly technical off-roading in both Land Rovers and Range Rovers, but prior to a recent trip to New York, I’d never driven one on asphalt for an extended period of time. I wanted to know if the high regard in which pop culture holds them is warranted, not to mention their hefty price tag. So I set about finding a way to get some seat time in the most recent iteration of the iconic vehicle.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

It was a perfectly dreary fall evening when I landed at John F. Kennedy International Airport. Rain steadily falling from the sky, wind gently blowing it sideways, and the outside air temperature hovering just above insulated jacket territory. Curbside pickup was packed with people grumbling about the weather, but not me – no, I was delighted. Having just flown in from perpetually sunny California, I couldn’t have been happier with the dour climate, especially since there was a 2017 Range Rover HSE Td6 waiting for me nearby. Of all the new Range Rovers, the Td6 is the most interesting because we’ve only just been given the turbo diesel as an option here in the United States, whereas it has been available around the rest of the world for years. Had my loaner been equipped with the supercharged gas guzzling V6, I’m sure my experience would have been quite different and, I suspect, far less interesting.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

I’d made the journey east to attend a friend’s wedding in Montauk, and while planning the trip, it occurred to me that there are few vehicles better suited for attending a fall wedding in Long Island than a Range Rover. As it turned out, the timing of my trip was rather fortuitous as it aligned with the launch of the first product of a long-term collaborative relationship between Zenith and Range Rover, a special edition El Primero chronograph appropriately dubbed the Zenith El Primero Range Rover.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Like the Range Rover, the Zenith watches chicago Replica El Primero is regarded as an icon by enthusiasts, and wouldn’t you know it, both originated in 1969. Here we are, 47 years later, and they’ve come together to produce a watch that attempts to represent key elements of both brands – technical proficiency, distinct design, and durability. Just as the Range Rover is known for its off-road prowess, the El Primero is known for its storied chronograph movement. Here, the in-house caliber 400B which operates at a very accurate 36,000vph and has a 50-hour power reserve. The 42mm case is made of ceramised aluminum, a nod to the aluminum architecture of the current Range Rover, and is finished in a highly scratch-resistant ceramic coating in order to bring durability on par with a product bearing the Range Rover name.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

In keeping with current Range Rover styling, the appearance of this watch is subdued, though one glance and you see it is clearly still a luxury item. The all black case and brushed slate grey dial are paired with either a very deep navy or ivory strap made of perforated calfskin and black rubber.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

I could see how wearing this watch while driving a Range Rover is a bit like wearing the t-shirt of the band you’re seeing in concert, but the branding is minimal, with a small Range Rover signature found on the face, and on the movement’s oscillating weight visible through the exhibition caseback. On the other hand, wear this watch when you’re not driving a Range Rover, and it’s just a slick-looking limited-edition timepiece that will likely catch the eye of any savvy watch nerd. In that way, it is the perfect companion for the turbo diesel Range Rover I spent the weekend in, as it too is one of those products that only those in the know will fully appreciate.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

With thoughts of whether or not I’d wear this special edition watch swirling in my head, I clicked unlock on the perfectly weighted oblong key fob to locate my rolling fortress in the packed airport parking lot. The signature LED headlamp accents came on, allowing me to easily locate “my” Range Rover and inviting me to come in out of the elements. I chucked my gear in the cavernous cargo area, hit the power fold button on the split rear tailgate, a favorite feature of mine, and was promptly out of the chilly rain. If that sounds like a Range Rover commercial, that’s because I felt like I was starring in one.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Integrated chronographs, conversely, are designed from the ground up to be chronographs and chronograph components share space with non-complication parts inside the watch. An interesting side effect of integrated design is that it generally produces much more visually intriguing movements because, unlike their modular counterparts, these components are not hidden on the other side of the watch. Thus, the owner may enjoy views like the one you see here, peering directly into the chronograph itself.It’s hard to imagine that the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer is our 11th limited edition so far, and perhaps even more mind-blowing is that it’s the first Swiss watch we’ve ever designed. It’s unfortunate, then, that only 25 will ever be produced, the smallest Timeless LE run yet. Imagining that the new watch will be gone very soon, a watch that we spent countless hours designing over the course of dozens of renders, is an interestingly difficult experience. I certainly hope that we get the opportunity to design more limited editions with Zenith watches classic Replica in the future, but for now, the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer will stand on its own, our first chronograph, our first Swiss watch and our first Zenith.Each of the 25 Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometers costs $7,500 and there’s still some available for reservation. If you happen to be local, consider stopping in and seeing it in person. Otherwise, please e-mail us or call us at 214-494-4241 to make sure to get yours before it’s too late.

Even the color combo seemed to match the weather, Scotia Grey exterior, Cirrus/Ebony interior. I wouldn’t fully appreciate the depth and beauty of the paint until the following day when it was light out, but even in darkness I could tell there was something special about it because of the way it reflected ambient light.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Much of that specialness is due to the silhouette that retains many of the iconic design elements one associates with a Range Rover, and how seamlessly the modern styling has been incorporated. The previous generation of Range Rovers look cheap and ill-conceived compared to the upscale and fluid appearance of the 4th generation model. It is without a doubt the best-looking SUV on the market, but as I’ll explain, it’s not all style – there is an equal amount of substance to be found as well.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

I was psyched that the Cirrus Oxford leather covered not only the seats, but the inner door panels, center armrest, and dash. From the moment I plunked my tired bones down in the captain’s chair, I felt like I was being treated to a special experience. That’s no exaggeration either, between the digital gauge cluster, wide uncluttered dash, and angle adjustable armrest, you really do feel like a captain. Perhaps an unnecessary bit of ego-stroking for the average Range Rover owner, but a welcome boost for yours truly. That feeling is reinforced once you start driving too, because at 196.9 inches long and 87.4 inches wide, the HSE is a land yacht.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Connecting my phone to the updated and seriously improved InControl infotainment system took only one try and was a quick affair. Unlike much of the competition, Range Rover’s center stack is a study of minimalist design, devoid of unnecessary buttons and redundancies. You still get a physical knob for turning up the volume, which I did repeatedly, because the 380 watt Meridian system is simply excellent. No need to drop an additional $1,850 on the 825 watt system, unless you just want bragging rights, which in this class of vehicle, may very well be the case. Trust me on this, the lower wattage system is plenty, and offers an all encompassing listening experience regardless of genre. Inclusion of such a high-quality audio system at no extra charge is one of the many touches that remind you why a Range Rover is the benchmark for a luxury SUV.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The warmth of the Meridian audio system was a source of comfort at the outset of my journey to Montauk, as Friday evening traffic out of the city was exacerbated by steady rainfall. With the seat heat on the lowest setting, and ambient interior lighting set to a soft orange, I was warmed to the core, and felt completely at ease piloting this modernist living room on wheels down the crowded highway. That’s no small feat as my daily driver is a two door coupe, but that’s what you get when an opulent large luxury SUV utilizes aluminium and keeps the curb weight to just 4,839lbs.

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

The 2017 Range Rover HSE TD6 Is Exceptionally Minimal Feature Articles

Eventually, the sea of brake lights gave way to fields of darkness, illuminated solely by the Xenon headlights of my mobile fortress of solitude. Although the rain-sensing windshield wipers were finally able to remain idle, a fierce wind had risen out of the east, and I remained vigilant as ever, eyes scanning the two lane road for debris.

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Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Bamford Watch Department has been providing aftermarket modification services for watches from various luxury brands since around 2003, and has often created a stir in doing so. Best-known for their customized Rolex watches that have included everything from colorful coatings to cartoon characters, these were always done as unaffiliated, third-party projects. Now, Bamford announces that they are officially sanctioned to go nuts on Zenith watches san francisco Replica watches and have introduced the relationship with some examples of Bamford-customized Zenith Cronometro TIPO CP 2 and Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up watches. This is the first time for Bamford to be officially authorized by a Swiss watch brand and represents a big step for the British watch customizer.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Some Bamford-customized Rolex watches.

The brand’s less-than-official relationship with Rolex in particular has been the source of some controversy. Just see our article here with hands-on pictures of various customized Rolex watches by Bamford, as well as background on the company and its founder George Bamford. Rolex themselves and many others seem to think that their watches are “perfect” as they are. While we can surely agree that people can do whatever they want to an item that they purchased and own, there is a lot of potential debate on the nature of Bamford’s business that benefits from well-known luxury names – but it is also true that they offer some high-tech proprietary options and exclusivity, for which there is clearly a market and that is not available from the brand. Of course, subjective issues such as whether the customized watches are desirable improvements on the originals or if the final products are attractive to your tastes is another matter.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Rolex is known to be ultra-conservative in terms of designs (with notable exceptions here and there) and does not even offer its own watches with black-colored cases despite a thriving aftermarket that specializes in offering this. Colorful and “experimental” design choices are, however, not unknown to Zenith. We might have further predicted polarizing releases, bold styles, and more collaborations after the unstoppable Jean-Claude Biver took a more active role in the company himself that is part of the LVMH group where he is head of watchmaking. While Biver has named Julien Tornare Zenith’s new CEO, Tornare continues to report directly to Mr. Biver in his “renewal of Zenith” mission. Whether or not this particular relationship is a direct result of Biverian forces, it does seem to indicate movement and fresh thinking at the brand.

Today, Zenith watches leeds Replica announces the brand new Zenith Defy Lab collection that contains what they claim is the world’s most accurate mechanical movement. The in-house made caliber ZO 342 automatic operates at 15Hz, which is faster (a good thing) than the vast majority of mechanical watches out there, including Zenith’s legendary 5Hz “high beat” frequency El Primero automatic chronograph movement. This is a bold new step not only for Zenith, but also for the entire watch industry as it further legitimizes a controversial but ultimately wise creative direction. Zenith will debut the Defy Lab as a very limited set of 10 “piece unique” watches – at comparably “exclusive” prices. What about everyone else who will want one of these very compelling timepieces? Zenith makes it clear that the initial 10 Defy Lab watches are “only the beginning.” The Defy Lab’s movement will not only be put into regular production, but it will serve as a base for future complications. The first set of Defy Lab watches after this initial debut collector’s set is planned for production in 2018.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

So, while not a huge leap for Zenith, the new partnership is a big deal for Bamford as it is the first time for them to be working directly with a Swiss brand in an authorized capacity – and working with Zenith can be seen to provide greater legitimacy to their customized watches from other brands too. Practically, the relationship means that Bamford will be getting watches, parts, and other supplies directly from Zenith and working closely with the manufacture. The watches will be sold through Bamford’s retail network as well as their website where one can also customize one’s own watches online.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

The online customizer follows a formula and gives you the ability to instantly see how a design change will look, offering control over a range of aesthetic details that differ according to the model. One can even separately choose the color of the Zenith watches london dealers Replica star above the logo. The customizing tool is mostly about different colors, but one can, for example, choose from among ten dial colors and then further match the date wheel (or not) and choose the date text color as well. Since a lot of the dial elements are printed (rather than separate applied components) it makes sense that these would be easy to change up with different colors, but Bamford does offer more options and control than a lot of similar tools out there. As an aside – and I’ve said this before – why on earth does Casio not offer something like this for G-Shocks? I mean, you can officially do it with a pair of Converse Chuck Taylors.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

While the online tool is fun, working directly with individual clients is a big part of Bamford’s business, and for the right price, they will probably do their best to accommodate further requests or creative ideas. If you want Sponge Bob on your watch dial where his hands indicate the time à la Mickey Mouse – it doesn’t hurt to ask. That said, standard versions designed by Bamford are available as well, further functioning as examples of what is possible. So let’s take a look at the Zenith watches 410 Replica watches that Bamford has customized to illustrate their new relationship – again, they are based on the Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 and the Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

The Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 (that we saw hands-on here) has been customized by Bamford with a black coating for the steel case and different colored highlights on elements such as the hands and markers. The sandy black or asphalt-like texture of the dials and hands looks cool in Bamford’s pictures that mostly show models with green or “aqua blue” highlights. The base Cronometro Tipo CP-2 watch is 43mm wide (water resistant to 100 meters), runs the El Primero caliber 4069 automatic chronograph movement, and has a price of $7,700. You can see more details about the watch in the above linked-to article.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

The Zenith watches under 1000 Replica Heritage Pilot Ton-Up (hands-on) as shown here is given a similar treatment as the Cronometro Tipo CP-2 with the blue and green highlight colors. The original Zenith Heritage Pilot Ton-Up has a similar interesting dial texture, but I think I actually prefer Bamford’s more modern interpretation – even though I am skeptical of how colored coatings age and show wear. The Ton-Up also uses the El Primero 4069, is 45mm wide and 100m water-resistant, and has a price of $7,100 for the version not modified by Bamford.

Zenith Watches Officially Customized By Bamford Watch Department Watch Releases

Bamford launched a new site in conjunction with the announcement of their official relationship with Zenith, and you can find more customized or customizable models there including El Primero and Zenith Heritage 146 Chronomaster watches – as well as other watch brands. Naturally, prices will vary depending on different models and customization options, so most will be “on request,” but they are starting from around £8,000. bamfordwatchdepartment.com | zenith-watches.com

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Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Rose gold ain’t for everyone, but it could be argued that rose gold deserves a second chance when it comes to the Zenith Chronomaster collection – particularly the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open, which feels as though it’s been tailor-made for every carat of its bronze-hued 18k gold case.

Now, it might feel like a fool’s errand to go around messing with the winning formula of the Chronomaster tricolor dial – a classic combination that’s rightfully earned its place in watchmaking history for nearly 50 years of service. But as we’ve come to know, Zenith isn’t exactly a stickler for traditions, even when it comes to their beloved El Primero. With the Chronomaster Open, the silver running seconds register at 9:00 and a bit of the surrounding area have been knocked out, and replaced with a cutaway that reveals the fast-moving escapement in a rose gold surround.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

All images by Ariel Adams

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With most automatic movements, an open heart is a fun distraction, but the novelty isn’t usually long-lasting, as a traditional ETA 2824 or Valjoux 7750 starts to feel a little too familiar. That’s where the El Primero 4061 ‘Open’ caliber has an edge – this high-beat movement is actually quite a treat to watch front and back, as the 5Hz oscillation rate (10 beats per second) delivers an ultra-smooth sweep seconds hand, and an escapement that jumps back and forth at a truly frenetic pace. And while the 4061 functionally behaves exactly like the famed El Primero 400 caliber which made its debut in 1969, it was developed specifically to put as much of the high-beat ballet as possible in full view.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Then there’s the case itself. The tricky thing about rose gold and men’s watches is that the end result isn’t always the most flattering or masculine – particularly because the high-polished palette swap of the case doesn’t always pay any favors to the colors or textures on the dial, especially with the cheerful, pinkish hues of rose gold used on most cases. Conversely, Zenith’s brushed rose gold exhibits some warmer, smokier tones akin to some virgin bronze cases that we’ve handled. It’s a slightly more somber hue that works extremely well with the silver and blue accents on the dial, like the blued screws and the 30 minute totalizer at 3:00.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

For 2017, Zenith has been in the process of updating the Chronomaster collection, getting it as close to the original source material as possible, while listening to collectors – addressing subtle details like dial text, date window placement, and the size of the sub-dial overlap – perhaps the collection’s most divisive charm. And while the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open seems to have been spared from these updates, to be completely fair, this edition isn’t aimed at the purists, but the types of watch fans who subscribe to the ‘seeing is believing’ camp when it comes to mechanical watches.

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Sub-dial overlap aside, one of the more notable signatures within the original Chronomaster El Primero series has always been the symmetry – and the Open casts all that aside, with the escapement window occupying a fair amount of real estate, so much so, it nudges the Zenith wordmark to 1:00 – all of which takes a bit of getting used to. Thankfully, the 42mm case wears comfortably within its proportions, and neither the open dial nor the brushed rose gold case threaten to overpower the wrist – unlike many similar complications or comparable gold cases – and that’s a good thing. The end result is plenty of fun to behold on the wrist, while maintaining just enough restraint to keep from compromising the classicism of the El Primero Chronomaster itself.

A little while back, aBlogtoWatch looked at some of our favorite dressy chronograph watches and I would certainly add this watch on that list, even more so with the rose gold which manages to feel and look refined without the fussiness that can go along with it. Almost bronze in hue and with a substantial 42mm case size, this is a gold Zenith watches ultra thin Replica El Primero that works as a daily wear. Those looking to add the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero Open Gold Watch should take note, as it has a price of $16,300. zenith-watches.com

How will other watch makers respond? Will it become expected for watch makers to make claims about the accuracy of their watches? I am not sure that there will be an industry-wide move to mention actual numbers, but if there is a watch that comes out with a story about accuracy and some special technical elements, you can be damn sure we will point out if they omit actual performance numbers. I think what is more important is that a watch like this, with such a big emphasis on silicon, that isn’t stupid high in price, will force the industry to adopt next-generation watch movements with haste.Only a few companies in Switzerland are able to produce silicon parts. The tools needed for this task are very expensive, which includes the labor needed to operate and program them. Most watch brands that use silicon parts don’t make the components themselves. Is now a time to start given clear levels of increased need? Note again that investments by watch makers into silicon technology in traditional watchmaking has been going on for well over a decade. Though, little of this technology has trickled down into what we might call “affordable” timepieces. Jean-Claude Biver said watch makers will not produce their own silicon parts until they can also make parts for other companies in different industries.

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Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

For me, one of the most anticipated watches of the Baselworld 2017 show to put on my wrist was the new Zenith watches ethos Replica Defy El Primero 21. Zenith let us know about the watch in advance of its release, and I was quite excited to see and play with it. I even had an opportunity to speak with Mr. Guy Semon at sister brand TAG Heuer, who was responsible for the sexy-looking El Primero 21 movement (the Zenith caliber El Primero 9004).

What surprised me when I spoke to Mr. Semon was that everything in the El Primero 21 movement was new. This was important to know because I was under the impression the movement was a re-done version of that which existed in the previous TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph. If you recall that model, you’ll know that it introduced the 1/100th-of-a-second mechanical chronograph into the LVMH watch group family and had a dial with an identical layout to that of the El Primero 21. Guy agreed that the El Primero 21 built on lessons learned with the Carrera Mikrograph, but said that it was an entirely new mechanism without any shared parts.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Of course, one thing that was new aside from movement architecture in the El Primero 21 was the special carbon material (ahem, Carbon-Matrix Carbon Nanotube material) used for the balance wheel in the distinct regulation organ that is dedicated to the chronograph complication in the movement.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The El Primero 21 is Zenith’s best current answer to “what is the 21st century version of the iconic El Primero.” The brand has been riding on the coattails of the 5Hz-operating-speed El Primero automatic chronograph for a long, long time. Just about everyone agrees they need something fresh to satiate those who already have one or more El Primero movement-based watches in their life. The El Primero 21 might be the answer to that, and moreover, it represents a new modern look and feel for the Zenith watches melbourne Replica brand that has been (for the most part) decidedly classic in its aesthetic appeal.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Of course, you cannot discuss the Zenith watches defy lab price Replica Defy El Primero 21 without mentioning Jean-Claude Biver. As the head of the LVMH watchmaking group he was the interim CEO of Zenith up until April of 2017 when Julien Tornare was named CEO of Zenith. However, the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch was a major product debut under Biver’s leadership, and many see it as a sign of things to come. It is, of course, a page out of his Hublot and TAG Heuer playbook, but tailored to the specific personality of Zenith.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I have to admit that I was thinking that the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch would be a bit more controversial at Baselworld 2017. Modern-looking watches – especially those released under guidance from Jean-Claude Biver tend to be. While a few people exclaimed that the case and concept reminded them of Hublot, or that the “Defy” product name reminded them of the infamous Nataf era at Zenith, there seemed to be a lot of consensus that the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 was a pretty darn cool watch – and I have to agree.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At its heart, the mechanical novelty of the watch and the caliber El Primero 9004 automatic movement is in offering a 50Hz (360,000bph) chronograph escapement in a movement that has a 5Hz (36,000bph) escapement for the time-telling mechanism, with 50 hours of power reserve. This is thus a “5 + 50Hz movement,” and that makes it uncommon. Yes, the no-longer-produced TAG Heuer Carrera Mikrograph did that, but in a package that was a lot more expensive, and not nearly as neat-looking. The 50Hz regulation organ of the chronograph would be way too much of a power hog to serve as the regulation system for the time. As it is, the chronograph has a maximum power reserve of 50 minutes, with a dedicated power reserve indicator under 12 o’clock.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The solution to have two regulation systems for the time and for the chronograph makes sense. Using the 1/100th-of-a-second chronograph is fun, because the main chronograph seconds hand makes one revolution around the dial each second. In this way, it is similar to the Zenith Striking 10th, but just much more precise in its motion. I do, of course, wonder how the movement fares when it comes to wear and tear because the forces required for all of this are way above and beyond what most traditional mechanical movements need to bear.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

When I debuted the Zenith watches singapore Replica Defy El Primero 21, I explained that Zenith was going to release it as three versions to start. I didn’t think I’d like the solid-dial version as much as the open-dial versions… but I do. The 44mm-wide titanium or black ceramicised (not to be confused with circumsized!) aluminum case is comfortable and attractive. The case is also 14.5mm thick and water resistant to 100 meters with a flat AR-coated sapphire crystal). It might not have the immediate appeal of an Hublot Big Bang, but then again, it isn’t trying to be one. In fact, the case looks remarkably elegant on the wrist, with the most prominent features being the slightly disproportionately large rectangular chronograph pushers – which is likely a purposeful design decision given that this watch is all about the chronograph.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I will, however, say that the strap, which is rubber with an outer strip of black alligator, is right out of the Hublot playbook – and is something that you find in TAG Heuer as well. That’s really not a bad thing, but it is worth mentioning. Why these straps? Well, they offer the comfort of rubber with the exterior appeal of a fine natural skin. Moreover, they help the leather last a lot longer.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The dial of the Zenith watches value Replica Defy El Primero 21 (open or otherwise) is very much Zenith. You see Zenith-style hands and hour markers, and even the colorful subdials in some form or another. Legibility is pretty good, and the view into the movement is really nice. You can even get a nice look at the distinctive movement architecture that helps make the caliber El Primero 21 special. In real life, the large “star-style” automatic rotor does look pretty cool as well.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With the Zenith Defy El Primero 21, Zenith adds some important novelty to a brand that has been a bit stale lately when it comes to new ideas. Zenith is a brand that a lot of people like, without necessarily having a specific model they want. I do now want the Defy El Primero 21 because it combines a lot of things I value, as well as a great mechanical story. It is also the type of high-end mechanical watch that requires little explanation for non-watch enthusiasts to appreciate. Merely hand them the watch and allow them to admire the skeletonized dial before activating the 50Hz-operating-speed chronograph and let them listen to the audible hum of the escapement while smiling at all the hands going around. Zenith is no doubt going to make the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 an important and major part of its product strategy for the next few years, and with an opening price of about $10,000 – it is the right price and a fair amount of watch for the money.

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Price for the reference 95.9001.9004/01.R582 (non-skeletonized dial) is $10,600 USD, the reference 95.9000.9004/78.R582 (natural titanium) is $11,600, and the reference 24.9000.9004/78.R582 (black titanium) is $12,600zenith-watches.com

Biver’s vision for relevancy by watch makers in the future includes the bold but practical notion that watch makers need to use their skills to produce parts for other companies such as those that produce medical equipment or robotics. If the silicon part-making arm of a watch maker only needs 30% of the capacity of its output, then it is only possible to do business if the other 70% of that output is used to sell products others can buy. Biver feels there are loads of applications watch brands could thrive in being successful at serving, which could help them earn income allowing them the luxury to keep making mechanical watches on the side. I’ve not heard better ideas for how to maintain the complicated and arguably too-large-for-the-current-market industrial core of the Swiss watch industry.Going back to the Defy Lab we have a movement which is not a chronograph. If you want a speedy Zenith chronograph, then allow me to recommend the also recently released Zenith Defy El Primero 21. Both the Defy Lab and Defy El Primero 21 share a case design and are clearly in the same family. The Defy Lab is a 15Hz time-only watch, whereas the Defy El Primero 21 is a time and chronograph watch with a 5Hz oscillator for the time and a secondary 50Hz oscillator for the chronograph.

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Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

The latest in Zenith’s ongoing series celebrating the still ongoing “World’s Greatest Rock ‘n’ Roll Band” is the Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch. The downright iconic Zenith El Primero watch has come in countless iterations over the years, but this time the watch will probably be the second thing you notice, after that bright red, in-your-face tongue and lips logo on the dial.

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

This is not the first time the Rolling Stones’ tongue and lips logo have featured prominently on a Zenith keyhole watch Replica dial, a bold design decision to be sure. It graced the dial of an Academy Cristophe Colomb watch (hands-on) and the subdial of an earlier El Primero Rolling Stones watch. On this new Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch, however, the tongue and lips motif resides on a rotating disc for the running seconds subdial – as if it is slowly licking the inside of the glass… Slurp!

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

You’re welcome for that. It’s just lucky that this author wasn’t raised much on The Rolling Stones, so you will be subjected to relatively few tongue-in-cheek (so to speak) song and lyric references. Perhaps the audience can help fill in some of those missed opportunities. I was going to work something in about Paint it Black for the ceramic… but then I thought better of it. Yes, all black ceramic, as it is a hot material in the watch industry right now, with improved technology offering more options, control, and ease of production.

Ceramic is the future for bezels, but in discussing the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Ocean Commitment II watch in blue ceramic, I was just recently saying how I am not yet totally convinced of its suitability as a case material because of its tendency to chip with hard impacts. It is, however, light, scratch-resistant, and offers more variety in textures and colors, with colors that don’t fade over time.

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

The Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch appears to be all matte black ceramic – which is better than polished, I supposed, but mixing in brushed ceramic surfaces that mimic metal gives the nicest look, in my opinion. The case is a very rock-n-roll 45mm wide and 14.05mm thick, water resistant to 50m. The hands, you will notice, are a little different than on most other El Primero watches, and they are said to evoke the neck of a Fender Telecaster 1950s electric guitar – that’s actually kind of a nice touch that shows a more thoughtful and integrated design – and the hands and indices are filled with black lume. I also like the way the date is highlighted in red at 6 o’clock. The watch comes on a black calfskin leather strap adorned with “hotprints” befitting the overall theme.

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

The dial is skeletonized enough for some visual interest while retaining decent legibility, but a more extensive view of the movement will be visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, with its column wheel and expectedly nice finishing (unfortunately, we don’t have a caseback image now). Flipping the watch over provides you no relief from the tongue, though, as you will find the logo swaying to and fro on the rotor. This is the El Primero 400B movement (also found in the recent Zenith El Primero Range Rover watch) with 50 hours of power reserve, and as we all know, keeping time at the upbeat tempo of 5Hz (36,000bph).

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

To me, there is very little that is rock ‘n’ roll about a luxury watch, but this is basically like a co-branding exercise, where the idea is for people to enjoy two of their passions at once. That is very often hard to get right, but Zenith watches malaysia Replica keeps making these, so they must be selling. It’s been said before, but the people who were at an impressionable age when the Rolling Stones were at their prime now perhaps have some success and savings, and they never stopped loving the music of their youth. And there’s nothing wrong with that. Personally, I’m more of a Beatles guy (if you must view the world in binary terms), and though there’s a watch for that, it’s no El Primero.

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones Watch Watch Releases

I can’t help but feel that a spinning seconds disc made to look like a vinyl LP instead of the lips would have been easier to digest, if less edgy. Could even put a power reserve indicator on top to imitate the needle, maybe. Anyway, I am not Zenith’s target consumer for this watch, but it will be just perfect for some people. Zenith will only have to find 250 Rolling Stones super fans or memorabilia hoarders to move this limited-edition Zenith El Primero Skeleton Tribute To The Rolling Stones watch (reference 49.2521.400/98.C755), at a price of US$11,100. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

If you’ve been longing for something “extra special,” Zenith has you covered with a whole line of aviation-themed watches that includes the new-for-2017 Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph in bronze. It appears to have a lot going for it as well: bronze case, giant onion crown and pushers, huge luminescent numerals, and a trusty high-beat El Primero movement. Pricing is borderline tempting as well.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

Zenith has been a bit all over the place lately, but something we all appreciated was its getting more creative with its pilot watches as well as bronze as a case material. Consequently, it was – we had hoped – only a matter of time before these came together in a Zenith watch in a way that made sense. At 45mm wide, the Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph is big, but not as unrealistically and ridiculously so as, say, this bad boy from two years ago. For a chronograph, the case is a manageable 14.25mm thick, and it features a domed sapphire crystal with AR coating on both sides, sports a solid titanium case back with the Zenith flying instruments logo, and has two large pushers and a massive onion crown to go with the aviation theme, all crafted from bronze.

How will other watch makers respond? Will it become expected for watch makers to make claims about the accuracy of their watches? I am not sure that there will be an industry-wide move to mention actual numbers, but if there is a watch that comes out with a story about accuracy and some special technical elements, you can be damn sure we will point out if they omit actual performance numbers. I think what is more important is that a watch like this, with such a big emphasis on silicon, that isn’t stupid high in price, will force the industry to adopt next-generation watch movements with haste.Only a few companies in Switzerland are able to produce silicon parts. The tools needed for this task are very expensive, which includes the labor needed to operate and program them. Most watch brands that use silicon parts don’t make the components themselves. Is now a time to start given clear levels of increased need? Note again that investments by watch makers into silicon technology in traditional watchmaking has been going on for well over a decade. Though, little of this technology has trickled down into what we might call “affordable” timepieces. Jean-Claude Biver said watch makers will not produce their own silicon parts until they can also make parts for other companies in different industries.
Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

We have discussed pilot’s watches so many times that, at this point, we feel comfortable with simply saying that Zenith watches reputation Replica appears to have really nailed it with this latest piece – finally. The Super-LumiNova C1 Arabic numerals and the long and wide, gold-plated hands all enforce the aviation theme while a fun fact to bear in mind is that I recall Zenith to be the only watch brand to have trademarked the use of the word “Pilot” on its watch faces. We’ll ask Zenith whether that trademark is still in effect or not, but Zenith has for long been the only one allowed to designate something a pilot’s watch on its dial.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

On a side note, this particular Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph perpetuates what seems to be a recent trend in luxury watches and that is doubling up on names and other bragging rights. While there really isn’t much text on the dial, 2 out of 4 lines are dedicated to convincing us that this really is a “Montre d’Aeronef” or “Pilot” watch. We get it, Zenith.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

In Zenith’s images, the dial either shows up satin dark or, as in the image above, as a surface with some finely grained, partly reflective coating on it. The way this works with the rest of the dial elements as well as the bronze case could really make or break the overall design, which is yet another reason I personally am looking forward to seeing this watch in the metal at BaselWorld soon.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

Bronze, while hardly a frequently used material for pilot’s watches in general, unquestionably is a popular material these days and, being as rugged and relatively unrefined on the surface, it truly does look its best when used for such utilitarian designs. Water resistance is a most welcome 100 meters (should be the industry standard on any watch that costs more than $300, but it isn’t, so we highlight it), so if you take this swimming you only need to consider the oxidation of the case – but not worry about water getting in it.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

The movement is the 4069 variant of the El Primero, it measures 30mm wide, is 6.6mm, has 254 components including a column wheel and, but of course, runs at 5Hz for approximately 50 hours. It’s decorated in the usual vintage Zenith watch quality Replica fashion, but you won’t see that due to the solid titanium case-back.

Zenith Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph Watch Watch Releases

Sold on an oiled green nubuck leather strap with rubber lining, the Zenith watches vintage Replica Heritage Pilot Extra Special Chronograph will be priced at $7,100 – that’s $1,500 less than this 38mm Zenith El Primero Original 1969 watch in steel that has a pretty much identical movement but with a steel case. That massive price difference clearly indicates Zenith scaling back on pricing, and that’s a good thing. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

If you want a modern Zenith El Primero watch that combines the heritage of the famed “hi beat” mechanical chronograph and modern materials in a classic looking package then these new for 2017 El Primero watches will be right up your alley. Black and white “panda dial” watches are enduringly beloved by us watch nerds, especially when brands don’t ruin them with too much extra color. What are these pretty looking new Zenith watches called? Unfortunately the names are rather derivative being the “Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH.” Because, you know, that narrows them down to every single El Primero watch ever made. Or you can refer to them by their “watch latin” reference names of 24.2041.400/21.R576 and 24.2041.400/01.R576.

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

At 42mm wide the cases of the El Primero 36,000 VPH watches pictured here are ideally-sized, in my opinion. The cases are remarkably light being aluminum, but are  coated in ceramic. Zenith calls them “ceramicised aluminum,” which is important because aluminum scratches easily and ceramic coatings do not. Don’t worry, you aren’t the first one to read that term and at a glance think we are talking about circumcised metal cases.

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

The matte black color is sporty and the 42mm case is just 12.75mm thick with 100 meters of water resistance in traditional El Primero style. Note the “box style” sapphire crystal which gives the watch a vintage look. I know I am harping on it at this point, but I really wish these watches had a more distinctive name… I’m thinking about just calling these models the El Primero Black & White, and the El Primero White & Black. You can decide which is which.

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

The standard El Primero dial style is marked by a mostly monochromatic color tone with the lightest hint of red in two of the chronograph hands. The timeless, classic look of black & white “panda dials,” make sporty chronograph watches like the El Primero 36,000 look their best. It also has the versatility to be suitable with a lot of attire options. That’s really the beauty of black and white… that it goes with pretty much everything. More so, rather than three distinct high-contrast subdials, you have three overlapping subdials which makes it look like you have an uplifting homage to Mickey Mouse on your wrist at all times. Zenith, the most El Primero place on earth!

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Inside the Zenith watches on sale Replica El Primero 36,000 VPH is the in-house made Zenith caliber 400B automatic column-wheel movement. You can see the movement through the rear of the case’s sapphire crystal exhibition window. The movement operates at 5Hz (36,000 bph), which Zenith prefers to say is 36,000 vibrations per hour (“vph”). The date window is located 6 o’clock – and is among the more attractive date window on dial integrations on a sport watch you’ll find out there.

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Attached to the matte black ceramicised aluminum case is a perforated black rubber strap. While it is comfortable on the wrist, I am not a big fan of how it looks. There are seemingly many interesting replacements that could work well on a watch like this. I’m thinking a shiny alligator strap with silver (to match the dial’s light colors) stitching. Note that strap runs pretty large as well, so if you like this watch and have wrists my size, you’ll need to get a shorter strap, anyway.

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

Zenith El Primero 36,000 VPH Black & White Watches For 2017 Hands-On

My personal favorite of the two is the Zenith watches defy lab price Replica El Primero 36,000 VPH with the black dial and silvery white subdials that is the reference 24.2041.400/01.R576. Though that and the silver white with black subdial reference 24.2041.400/21.R576 is cool, as well. Price for each is $8,600. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At Baselworld 2016, I had a sneak peak at this new limited edition Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 watch that is based on a set of 2,500 timepieces Zenith made for the Italian military via a local distributor known as A. Cairelli in the 1960s. This particular style of military chronograph pilot watch was a design not unique to Zenith, and in recent years a similar model produced by Heuer – Leonidas from the same era has been on a lot of people’s minds. I’ll get to that in a moment.

While the vintage-reissue watch trend is thankfully slowing down a bit, that doesn’t mean there aren’t still a lot of good lessons from the past that can be used to create delights for watch collectors today. With this 1,000-piece limited edition, solid value, and good looks, I think the Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 is going to be quite popular.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Original Zenith TIPO CP-2 and Heuer – Leonidas Bundeswehr. Image via LouS on watchuseek.com

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Heuer Bundeswehr

The Heuer watch I am referring to is known as the Heuer Bundeswehr 1550SG Flyback Chronograph, and I’ve seen them in various conditions around the world. There are a number of variations of this collection of watches out there, and their prices can vary from a few thousand to almost $10,000 depending on the condition and rarity. In addition to offering sober good looks, one of the reasons these military-style pilot watches are popular is their size. Unlike many vintage watches which wear quite small for today’s tastes, the original Cronometro Tipo CP-2 as well as the Heuer – Leonidas Bundeswehr had cases which are 43mm wide, with a nice-looking rotating timing bezel. That means this set of watches is among the few vintage sport watches that wear like modern watches.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The new limited edition Zenith watches automatic Replica Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 is also 43mm wide, 12.85mm thick and comes in a polished steel case with a legible, sober-looking vintage pilot watch dial complete with bi-compax 30-minute chronograph. The bezel insert looks to be aluminum, and over the dial is an AR-coated sapphire crystal. There aren’t too many watches that look like this sold today, but you can of course get some out there from brands such as Sinn, Dodane, etc. Zenith adds its customary level of refinement and some flair, making this one of my top choices out there. The dial design is also very elegant. I sort of see this as a “budget” Breguet Type XXI given the overall feeling on the wrist as well as the design of the numerals. Both the watches have a similar design theme heritage.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At 43mm wide (water resistant to 100 meters), the Zenith watches instagram Replica Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 isn’t very thick so it wears quite well, to be honest. Inside the watch is, of course, an automatic in-house-made Zenith El Primero caliber 4069 automatic column wheel chronograph movement which operates at 5Hz (36,000bph) with 50 hours of power reserve. Obsessive collectors will likewise thank Zenith for refraining from placing a date window on the dial – which is actually quite hard to find on a Zenith timepiece.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

This watch is “for the boys,” in the sense that it isn’t flashy or showy, but rather mature and handsome in its masculinity. While there are a lot of options at this price point, I think enough people will see the value in a watch like this which comes from a luxury brand, but is a lot more subtle in its appeal. Some people might say that a watch like this is for people who both want to convey a conservative style, but still evoke a confidence and suggestion of an active lifestyle. As is the case with many modern limited edition watches, what can also happen is that this model is not gobbled up immediately, but only in the coming years becomes popular after more people discover it, and fewer of them are available on the market.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I, for one, am excited about this Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 watch, especially in the context of the Zenith brand which, in my opinion, excels the most when producing watches like this which are tool watch in spirit, but with a high-end feeling that travels well in more elegant circles. Take it outside to get dirty, and clean it up when wanting to appear a bit more formal. Why all the discussion on style? Well, when making a purchase decision about a watch like this, that is most of what people consider. The story of the original being for the Italian military, the vintage-style designation, and related attributes are easily secondary to the aesthetic and style value of a timepiece such as the Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2.

Zenith Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Vintage-Style Pilot Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

Zenith offers the watch on either a black calfskin with rubber- lining strap or a with the reference 27.00.2218.774steel bracelet (no pictures of the bracelet yet but it should be cool looking). Available in November 2016, the Zenith watches tokyo Replica Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 reference 03.2240.4069 (03.2240.4069/21.C774) watch is a limited edition of 1,000 pieces and has a price of $7,700 USD or £6,200. zenith-watches.com