Category: Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date January 16, 2018

Zenith Elite 6150 Watch With New Zenith In-House Movement Inside Watch Releases

Integrated chronographs, conversely, are designed from the ground up to be chronographs and chronograph components share space with non-complication parts inside the watch. An interesting side effect of integrated design is that it generally produces much more visually intriguing movements because, unlike their modular counterparts, these components are not hidden on the other side of the watch. Thus, the owner may enjoy views like the one you see here, peering directly into the chronograph itself.It’s hard to imagine that the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer is our 11th limited edition so far, and perhaps even more mind-blowing is that it’s the first Swiss watch we’ve ever designed. It’s unfortunate, then, that only 25 will ever be produced, the smallest Timeless LE run yet. Imagining that the new watch will be gone very soon, a watch that we spent countless hours designing over the course of dozens of renders, is an interestingly difficult experience. I certainly hope that we get the opportunity to design more limited editions with Zenith in the future, but for now, the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer will stand on its own, our first chronograph, our first Swiss watch and our first Zenith.Each of the 25 Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometers costs $7,500 and there’s still some available for reservation. If you happen to be local, consider stopping in and seeing it in person. Otherwise, please e-mail us or call us at 214-494-4241 to make sure to get yours before it’s too late.

Say hi to Zenith’s latest creation, the Zenith watches reputation Replica El Primero… Wait, that’s not right… Welcome to the Zenith Elite 6150, the manufacture’s updated dress watch line that features a new in-house movement. While it’d be easy to say that Zenith and its El Primero are absolutely inseparable, the company has actually been offering the Elite line of dress watches, coming with a more simple feature set and a dressier look than most El Primero-equipped Zenith watches.

The Zenith Elite has, of course, never been able to replace the El Primero, but then again, that is not the goal here – it is a restrained extension to Zenith’s portfolio of watches, something that provides what you would expect from a true manufacture – at a relatively more affordable price level, matched to arguably more timeless aesthetics.

The diameter is, of course, not the only metric we pay attention to. We greatly prefer thin watches at Timeless, to the point that we often find ourselves using manual wind movements over automatics. Of course, there’s no way we’d skip using the El Primero, so that wasn’t a viable option, yet it is a testament to the engineering of a movement from 1969 that the watch only had to be 13.75mm thick. That’s hardly an ultra-thin, but in an era when even ordinary three hand watches are frequently 14mm or more, it remains impressive.The El Primero movement is, by far, the biggest change to the A273 source material. The A273, wonderful as it was, was powered by a more common, from a technical standpoint, manually wound movement. The El Primero, conversely, is not just a good movement, it’s a true legend. It is easily among the two best known chronograph movements in the world, the other being the highly respected, although less prestigious, 7750. There are many reasons that the El Primero has stood the test of time where so few other movements have. The first is the feature by which it derives its name, specifically that it’s the first automatic chronograph.

The Zenith watches chicago Replica Elite line started out as just that, and has been around with more or less quiet updates – especially when compared to the many smaller and greater new iterations the El Primero base caliber has been subjected to. One of the more interesting pieces of news related to the Zenith Elite came in 2014, when Zenith announced that they would be offering Zenith Elite collection timepieces now equipped with sourced Sellita calibers – a bit of a shocker from Zenith, who has been a long standing member in the close group of true and dedicated manufactures.

At that time, the point was to lower the barrier of entry to the brand – and since the manufacture has reached the limits of its output capacities at around 50,000 calibers per year, it would allow them to step up in volume and further down a bit in price. Another highly notable event in Zenith’s history from last year was that the company’s CEO, Jean-Frédérique Dufour left the company to lead Rolex – and it was difficult to tell whether the new director of Zenith, Aldo Magada – former chief executive of Gucci Group Watches – would carry on following this route or not.

Apparently, we are being given an answer to that question right now, as the Zenith Elite 6150, Zenith claims, is “bringing back to the forefront its famous Elite base calibre presented in 1994.” What made the modern Zenith what it is today was unquestionably its return to its roots and more traditional side, as Dufour steered the company back that way after the much more modern – and on many occasions, quite extreme – direction that its former CEO, Theirry Nataf had set. This development also brings up another logical question: how did Zenith come up with a new in-house movement in such a short time (basically less than a year from the time of its change of heart)? The answer in this case, Zenith says, is that they have worked on the original Zenith Elite caliber – which has likely accounted for substantial savings both in time, as well as financial investment in its development.

How will other watch makers respond? Will it become expected for watch makers to make claims about the accuracy of their watches? I am not sure that there will be an industry-wide move to mention actual numbers, but if there is a watch that comes out with a story about accuracy and some special technical elements, you can be damn sure we will point out if they omit actual performance numbers. I think what is more important is that a watch like this, with such a big emphasis on silicon, that isn’t stupid high in price, will force the industry to adopt next-generation watch movements with haste.Only a few companies in Switzerland are able to produce silicon parts. The tools needed for this task are very expensive, which includes the labor needed to operate and program them. Most watch brands that use silicon parts don’t make the components themselves. Is now a time to start given clear levels of increased need? Note again that investments by watch makers into silicon technology in traditional watchmaking has been going on for well over a decade. Though, little of this technology has trickled down into what we might call “affordable” timepieces. Jean-Claude Biver said watch makers will not produce their own silicon parts until they can also make parts for other companies in different industries.

The new movement now offers a most welcome 100-hour power reserve and a more generous diameter. The Zenith Elite 6150 adds an extra barrel to the original’s singe-barrel construction, upping the power reserve from 55 to the aforementioned 100+ hour limit. Beyond adding some extra oomph to the caliber, Zenith has also concentrated on keeping it thin: this accumulation of 195 components is just 3.92 millimeters thick, allowing the brand to keep using the movement in elegant dress watches. The movement runs at 4 Hertz or 28,000 vibrations per hour, one step down from the El Primero’s famous 5Hz/36,000 vph frequency. The functions of the 6150 include the indication of hours, minutes and central seconds – moving the seconds indication from the previous manufacture caliber’s 9 o’clock position to this central location where it helps maintain the symmetry of the dial. At this point, we do not know whether the final version will have a sapphire crystal or solid metal case back, but we’ll add this information as soon as it is made available.

The movement is of course more or less fully exposed, and certainly cool looking with an emphasis on the Zenith watches price Replica five-pointed star shaped logo in the movement design itself. The movement has a full 60 hours of power reserve and again operates at 15Hz (108,000 bph). Power reserve is actually 72 hours, but at 60 hours the stable 0.3 – 0.5 seconds per day accuracy drops to 1 second per day. Amplitude is extremely slim with a movement arc of just plus or minus six degrees. The movement is on the thicker side at 8.13mm, but is also only produced out of 148 parts. The ZO 342 is of course an automatic (C?tes de Genève stripes decorate the rotor), and indicates just the time with minutes, hours, and seconds.Theoretically speaking, all-silicon watch movements (we aren’t there yet) should be able to decrease the cost, while upgrading the performance of your standard mechanical watch. Though for now (and for a while), silicon will continue to be a more or less exotic material in the mechanical watch world that brands will ask customers to pay a bit of a premium for. So long as the products that contain such movements look like the Zenith Defy Lab, or other ultra-modern mechanical timepieces, I think customers will be willing.

The watch we’re looking at today does have an El Primero, but it’s not the A273. It’s the new Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer limited edition. It’s closely inspired by that A273, of course, but it is not a reissue or a new version. Instead, it takes a leap forward, and not only in terms of the movement as we’ve made subtle updates throughout the watch. Let’s take a close look at the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer and learn more about both its predecessor and the limited edition.The aesthetic heart of any watch is its dial. Almost everything that defines a model as a unique, distinctive piece can be found there. For this watch we wanted to use a dial that was extremely understated and clean, yet never boring. That meant removing almost everything that was superfluous. I find that the need for simplicity is greatest in chronographs, and other watches with intrinsically busy dials. This watch, therefore, would have no date and it would have no “El Primero” or “36,000 VPH” writing on it. It had to be reduced to the essence of what a chronograph must have while nonetheless balancing some of those traits that defined its ancestor.

Let’s step back a bit and discuss why this fast operating, silicon material technology is all a big deal. The name of the game here isn’t just to be exclusive with something different, but more importantly – about wristwatch performance. In the words of Jean-Claude Biver, “I imagine this is what Abraham-Louis Breguet would be excited about if he were alive today!” While we’ve seen an enormous level of variety in timepiece design over the years, there is very little new in terms of actual performance increases. That means that most mechanical watches produced are similarly accurate. Of course, there are major differences in terms of how well regulated a movement is, or how well it is constructed, but at the end of the day you can only tweak a standard mechanical watch movement to be so accurate.

There are notable changes on the outside as well: the new caliber makes its debut in the Zenith Elite 6150 – apparently baring the same name as the caliber inside – which is now 42 millimeters wide, “a new benchmark size for the brand,” as Zenith puts it. That slightly larger case size is matched with a thickness of just 10 millimeters, rendering the watch highly wearable and relatively elegant, despite the larger diameter. At the time of this release, the previous Zenith Elite models with the Sellita movements no longer appear to be displayed on the brand’s website, which implies that the Zenith Elite 6150 means an old-new chapter in the dress watch collection’s life.

Zenith has always held a special place for me. From a fairly young age, not long after high school, the brand occupied an elite status in my mind. More specifically, it was and remains in my top two favorite brands of all-time, the other being Grand Seiko. In my mind, they offered two intriguing sides to the same high-frequency coin. Where Grand Seiko possessed a certain austerity to it, a degree of refinement I found in few, if any other places, Zenith was quite the opposite. Zenith might be a Swiss brand, but it always seems to have an American-grade boldness to it, a panache matched by none, at least none with Zenith’s horological pedigree. And thus, my two favorite watch brands were chosen: a restrained and sophisticated dress watch and a wild, avant-garde sports watch. Why can’t one watch just be both?Zenith, to their credit, almost had an answer to my question already: the criminally overlooked A273, a classic chronograph that had a measure of civility to it. Yet the A273 itself had committed an offense: it was offered during the same basic time frame as the legendary tri-color El Primero. Because of this coexistence, it was doomed to be overshadowed by its more prolific brother, which continues to be available today. Unlike the El Primero, the A273 was powered by a beautiful, yet far less revolutionary, hand wound movement. There it remained, largely unnoticed even among Zenith collectors, awaiting the time it too would receive the El Primero.

While the reasoning behind the Sellita-driven Elite models was understandable and rather logical – considering the intentions of opening up the brand for a newer customer base with a relatively smaller budget – Zenith watches chrono24 Replica has clearly decided to “reaffirm the brand’s determination to honor its status as a Manufacture.” That is what they say, and that is what they do with the Zenith Elite 6150. The overall design is rather conservative – which is nothing new when it comes to the Zenith Elite series – while the movement appears to feature just enough modifications to render it a considerable contender in the higher end dress watch segment. And while the pieces with the sourced Sellita movements may appear to be somewhat less desirable, as they obviously lack the in-house flair that has been offered before and after their short career, one wonders how that limited production period will affect the mid-to-long term collectibility of those pieces. We will continue to update as pricing becomes available. zenith-watches.com

Keep up with our pre-, post-, and live Baselworld 2015 coverage here.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

None are offering revolutionary models, but all are fine and completely wearable. TAG Heuer provides a yellow-themed version of the still new Connected Modular 45 that, of course, needs to come with the Heuer 02T tourbillon watch module – that with these colour tones is unique. Perhaps more things have to be called “luxury kit.” The watch comes with all the expertise of getting lunch for up to four individuals with TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver himself.Zenith offers an interesting also yellow-themed variant of this also new Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch. The motion also appears to have some interesting colours which separate it out of the norm. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Just Watch Edition has a black-colored titanium case and together with all the yellowish colors is a handsome and very bold sports opinion. The watch has all the experience of seeing the Zenith watch manufacture.Hublot’s entrant to Only Watch 2017 is much more sentimental than it’s original. The brand has produced a one-off opinion in party of Hublot brand ambassador Usain Bolt (not their first Usain Bolt watch) who recently announced his retirement. The piece is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt For Only Watch, also has a sapphire and gold case with green accents with regard to the Jamaican flag.

Originally introduced with a red bezel (then variants including bronze and black), the Tudor Watches Youtube Replica Black Bay is now cleaner and sleeker with a new stainless steel bezel. While not a significant change to an existing model, the Black Bay Steel offers a new look and function for practically the same affordable price tag.

The basics of the Black Bay Steel are identical to most of the other Black Bay watches: a steel 41mm case rate to 200m, snowflake hands, matte black dial with the depth rating in red, and an in-house movement.

Two elements set it apart, the more obvious being the bezel. The insert on the elapsed time diver’s bezel is stainless steel finished with circular brushing. The markings on the bezel are engraved and then filled with black lacquer, or red in the case of the triangle at 12.

Most bezel inserts on dive watches are aluminium (or increasingly ceramic), just like the coloured bezels on the other Black Bay models. But anodised aluminium is prone to fade with time, resulting in washed out colours that collectors of vintage watches adore (hence the “ghost” bezels). Steel, on the other hand, is fade-resistant and essentially eternal, apart from general wear.

But more important than its metallurgical qualities is the clean, functional appearance of the steel bezel, which makes the Black Bay Steel its own watch.

Many of the other Black Bay models are obviously retro inspired, modern watches that carry the style of something historical. In contrast, the Black Bay Steel has a modern look and feel, making it more original, largely thanks to the steel bezel.

And importantly, the Black Bay Steel has a date window at three o’clock. It’s a practical feature that often looks out of place in vintage remake watches, as on the Longines 1918 for instance. But because the Black Bay Steel feels contemporary, the date window looks at home.

Inside the Black Bay Steel is the MT5612, a COSC-certified automatic calibre that’s part of the in-house MT56 family of movements, which power most of the Black Bay range.

Built to be a reliable workhorse that’s functional and affordable, the MT5612 has a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance. More evidently convenient to the wearer are its three-day power reserve, and date mechanism that allows setting at any time, even midnight.

Price and availability

The Black Bay Steel (ref. 79730) will reach stores June 2017. Prices will be SFr3300 for the model on a leather strap and SFr3600 for the same on a steel bracelet – that’s just SFr100 over that of the model sans date.

Both versions are accompanied by an additional fabric NATO-style strap in olive green.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

This year, Just Watch decided to debut all of the watch auction lots on the same day, which is a departure from their more traditional strategy of slowly releasing watches over a several-week or several-month period. Nevertheless, certain brands did not really get their acts together and get things done on time. I shall go into that a bit more below. Another semi-new element to this auction is that many of the auction lots incorporate an adventure such as a trip or special meeting – and the watch, of course. These experiences (which are not attached to all the lots, should help liven the bidding up quite a bit once the encounters prove as interesting as the timepieces.A total of 49 lots will be auctioned off throughout the event in November that, sadly, won’t be able to gain from the glitz of having an event in Monaco itself. That said, the watches (well, the whole ones) will probably be traveling across the world “on tour” to ensure potential buyers can check out them. Follow the link below to see if you are in one of the nine cities that will have the watches there for a couple of days at a time beginning at the end of September 2017. From the movie that is embedded within the following article, you can hear myself and David Bredan discuss all 49 of the watches/clocks. We spend only a couple of moments on each in order to bring you our take. This year’s tons are not bad as wearable items, but leave much to be desired when it comes to actually being interesting or unique. Let me go over a few of the most interesting and important lots from Only Watch 2017. For an entire collection of those watches along with technical specifications and auction price estimates check out the watches in the Only Watch site.

When the covers were first taken off the Pelagos LHD last year, it was a surprise. From the left-handed crown to the numbered case back, the Pelagos LHD was different from what Tudor Watches Store Locator Replica had done before. In fact, the Pelagos LHD can be described as a hipster timepiece, being carefully curated to cater to current tastes for a specific type of vintage watch. It combines various elements that collectively evoke memories of vintage sports watches.

Left-handed dive watches are not uncommon, having been historically custom-made for military personnel, either to be worn on the right wrist, or to prevent the crown digging into the back of the palm (as with the Sinn EZM 1 for Germany’s customs police) when worn more conventionally on the left wrist.

Arguably the best known lefty watches are the Panerai Luminor destro watches of the 1940s, named after the Italian word for “right-handed”, which have been been reissued quite profitably. Similarly, Tudor produced a single left-handed Submariner for an officer in the French Marine Nationale in 1981, a watch now in Tudor’s archives that serves as the inspiration for the Pelagos LHD.

LHD is short for “left-hand drive”

From a more practical perspective for a right-handed person, the crown at nine o’clock initially throws you off. At least for the first couple of days of wear it feels off kilter. Oddly enough that sensation isn’t evident with a destro Panerai, maybe because the Luminor crown lock is unusual to start with.

When the crown is hidden under a sleeve, the sensation is magnified – something seems missing. But the incongruence disappears swiftly. After less than a week it feels right, helped by the fact that the rest of the watch looks and feels good.

The titanium case is a boon. Once exotic titanium is now commonplace and low-cost, but what the alloy lacks in novelty it makes up for in utility. Titanium is lightweight, a quality for which it’s not appreciated enough, especially for a large watch like the 42mm Pelagos LHD. Other comparably sized Tudor dive watches in steel or bronze both look and feel big, while the Pelagos feels functional and unburdened.

Visually titanium is at home with the design philosophy of the watch. The dull grey of the case, which is brushed on all surfaces, is totally at home with the vaguely retro look. And up close the case stands up with scrutiny, revealing impressively sharp edges and neat lines. The bevels on the lugs are notably well done, as are the points of the crown guard.

The black ceramic bezel matches the muted finish of the titanium well, but the insert lacks the solidity of ceramic bezels on other watches (Rolex is the inevitable comparison). That is likely due to several reasons, including the matte finish and the fact that the markings are flush with the surface instead of engraved. But nonetheless the ceramic insert has the qualities that make the material desirable – scratch- and fade-resistance.

The solidly built titanium bracelet adds to the tactile quality, giving it good balance on the wrist. While the watch is delivered with a rubber strap, the titanium bracelet is unquestionably the winner.

The dive extension integrated into the clasp is patented and consists of a link extender, along with a spring-loaded slider that automatically adjusts during a dive. Notably, the spring-loaded slider accomplishes almost exactly the same thing as the finer, and pricier, Glidelock clasp found on Rolex dive watches. While the Tudor extension lacks the finesse of the Rolex, though it is arguably the best at this price point.

Unlike the rest of the watch that’s titanium, the back is steel and engraved with an individual number. Large and pronounced, the number is distinct from the tiny case serial number engraved on one of the lugs (which comes from a series shared by all Tudor cases across model lines). And it is not a limited edition, so the number is not an indication of the total number made.

So the number doesn’t do very much – zero practical value. It does, however, deliver extra satisfaction in ownership, since no other Tudor has a number engraved. It is a contrivance, but a pleasing one.

“Pelagos” in bright red on the dial is another agreeable feature that has no practical purpose, but does summon memories of all those “red letter” Tudor and Rolex sports watches from the glory days of the late 20th century.

One detail I wish Tudor had dispensed with is the ivory Super-Luminova on the dial and hands – even the bezel markings and date disc are off-white. The faux vintage look is on-trend now, but it verges on trying too hard. The Pelagos LHD does not need that to be a success, especially since the watch is not a replica, as the Omega 1957 Trilogy is for instance.

Design quibbles aside, the legibility is faultless, even in the dark. Even though the bezel and Super-Luminova are ivory, they still glow a bright blue in the dark, with no discernible difference with the conventional Pelagos that has white Super-Luminova.

Similarly the Pelagos LHD is complaint-free mechanically. While the cal. MT5612-LHD inside is nothing to look at, it’s hidden behind the solid back and does everything it should. The three-day power reserve is especially useful since the watch keeps running even if off the wrist for a few days.

The Pelagos LHD costs US$4400 or S$6048 at retail, making it a strong value proposition.

That’s not just down to the specs of the Pelagos LHD versus the competition, but also measured on conventional industry margins. Based on those numbers, Tudor probably makes slightly smaller margins than the competition, while managing above average manufacturing efficiency (perhaps thanks to its big bother Rolex).

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

The Pelagos dial is very helpful, very legible, and also excellently made for visibility as a dive watch. The longer one uses a Pelagos, the more I believe one comes to appreciate the utility of the dial in a variety of lighting and reading environments. The apartment, AR-coated sapphire crystal allows for exceptional legibility even at extreme angles, and general dial materials and proportions result in a great tool.I keep saying “tool” over and over again in this review because I am trying to reinforce the point which the Pelagos is so successful in my opinion because it is first a tool, and then a luxury object of need. Watches like the Heritage Black Bay are much less about being more and tools about offering a “look.” The Black Bay is a great timepiece option for a great deal of people, but I believe if you are interested in dive watches because of their usefulness, and appreciate a series of design touches related to that, then the Pelagos is far and away the path to take at Tudor.At this year’s Baselworld, Tudor Watches Malaysia Replica unveiled another addition to their constantly growing Heritage Black Bay series. The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel is a largely cosmetic upgrade to the stove with a stainless steel bezel insert in addition to a polarizing date work on an otherwise familiar looking dial. We recently had the opportunity to go hands on with the new Black Bay Steel and came away impressed with the elegant aesthetics, even if a bit underwhelmed at the minimal degree of actual novelty.

Bucherer is Europe’s largest watch retailer (and the biggest seller of Rolex timepieces), with almost 30 stores and estimated annual sales of over SFr1.5 billion (about US$1.5 billion), giving it considerable clout. For its 130th anniversary in 2018, the chain has debuted a series of special edition wristwatches made by a variety of brands – from Audemars Piguet to Zenith – all characterised by dials in dark blue, the firm’s corporate colour.

The latest to join the band of blue watches is Tudor Watches Watch Snob Replica with the Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue, a variant of its bestselling bronze dive watch. Both the dial and bezel are a dark blue, darker than the shade found on the Pelagos in blue, but similar to the bezel on the Black Bay with a blue bezel.

The case back is also engraved with the Swiss retailer’s logo and 1888, the year it was founded in Lucerne.

The rest of the watch is identical to the standard edition – the aluminium-bronze case is 43mm in diameter with a slightly domed sapphire crystal. It’s equipped with the in-house calibre MT5601, a COSC-certified automatic with a silicon hairspring and 70-hour power reserve.

Like the other Tudor Heritage watches, the Bronze Blue is delivered on two straps: a dark blue canvas NATO-style band, as well as a distressed leather strap.

Price and availability

Priced at SFr3800 or €3730, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue, along with the other Bucherer Blue Editions, will be available at Bucherer stores.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

Protecting all this by the components and presumably water (this technically being a diver’s view) is exactly the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating polished and brushed surfaces that Black Bay enthusiasts know too well. Different here is your bezel insert which is made of steel rather than the aluminum present on preceding Black Bay models. The steel insert looks tough and should add a measure of scratch resistance over aluminum whilst also providing for a military-inspired rugged look. Tudor’s riveted oyster style bracelet, which is used on many other but not all Black Bay versions is a standout. In cases like this, the riveted bracelet perfectly compliments the tool watch style the Black Bay Steel is apparently heading for. As a note, Tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” necklace is among the best out there, combining contemporary performance with twist bars and modern adjustability for the timeless appearance of Submariners from decades ago. In another move to reinforce the military feel, a canvas NATO style strap in olive green is included using the Black Bay Steel if you decide on the stainless steel bracelet design or the also accessible black leather strap version.

Last year Tudor took the covers off its most affordable Black Bay variant, a compact 36mm model without an elapsed time diving bezel. Now that’s been enlarged, proportionately it has to be said, and turned into the Black Bay 41 that’s just as affordably priced.

The case is now 41mm in diameter, making it the same size as the Black Bay and even the new Black Bay Chrono. The 5mm extra it has over the Black Bay 36 is significant, giving it significantly greater presence on the wrist. Its size is magnified by the plain dial and smooth bezel.

Despite the current fad for smallish vintage watches, 36mm is too small for most men, though it worked well as a ladies’ watch with a military bent. So the Black Bay 41 is a strong proposition, especially since it’s been upsized correctly.

The dial and hands similarly resized to suit the new case. The snowflake hour hand, for instance, is longer, with a larger snowflake at its end.

All the key characteristics of the smaller model remain: glossy black dial with silver print, flat bezel, and the Oyster-esque case with polished bevels along the edges. The case is rated to 150m, with a screw-down case and back.

Inside is the still the ETA 2824, the movement found in Tudor’s entry-level models. Robust and economical, it’ll run reliably for a long, long time, but has the downside of a shortish 38-hour power reserve.

Like all of Tudor’s other retro style Heritage models, the Black Bay 41 is sold with either a steel bracelet or leather strap, both of which are accompanied by a spare fabric NATO-style strap woven with a grey camouflage pattern.

The steel bracelet is an Oyster-style affair, which is standard for Heritage watches with ETA movements; models powered by in-house movements get the riveted link bracelet as found on the second generation Black Bay.

Price and availability

The Black Bay 41 will be available starting April 2017, priced at just SFr100 over the 36mm model. That means it’ll cost SFr2500 (about US$2600) on a leather strap and SFr2800 (about US$2900) on a steel bracelet.

Addition March 25, 2017: Type of steel bracelet added.

Addition March 27, 2017: Photos updated.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

None are offering revolutionary versions, but all are pleasant and totally wearable. TAG Heuer provides a yellow-themed variant of the still new Connected Modular 45 that, clearly, has to come with the Heuer 02T tourbillon watch module – that with these colour tones is exceptional. Perhaps more things have to be known as “luxury kit.” The watch comes with the expertise of having lunch for up to four people with TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver himself.Zenith provides an interesting also yellow-themed variant of the also new Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch. The movement also appears to have some interesting colours that separate it out of the norm. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Only Watch Edition has a black-colored titanium case and with the yellow colours is a fine and incredibly bold sports opinion. The watch has the experience of visiting the Zenith watch manufacture.Hublot’s entrant to Just Watch 2017 is more sentimental than it is original. The piece is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt For Only Watch, and contains a sapphire and gold case with green accents in honor of the Jamaican flag. It includes two straps (one in matching flashy yellow-gold tone), and a rather appropriate experience of meeting together with all the Olympic runner Usain Bolt himself (and obtaining a signed t-shirt).

Bucherer is one of the Europe’s biggest watch retailers, and reputed to be the continent’s biggest seller of Rolex. With its 130th anniversary coming up in 2018, the Swiss retailer unveiled over a dozen “Bucherer Blue” special editions created just for the occasion. One of the most affordable, and perhaps the most compelling, is the Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue.

Announced in May 2017, the Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer is Tudor’s first retailer-exclusive edition (though according to those in the know, not the last). Thanks to a gentleman in Geneva and accommodating Bucherer store manager, I managed to land one a few days after the launch and have been wearing it for much of the last seven weeks.

As with all of Tudor’s Heritage watches, the Black Bay Bronze Blue a lot of watch for the money. For just under US$4000, you get a solid, proprietary movement inside a well made case in the material du jour. And of course the bonus of an uncommon colour palette in “Bucherer Blue”.

When the ordinary Black Bay Bronze was introduced last year, I found it an appealing proposition at just the right price. Higher-end bronze watches were mostly overpriced for what they were, while more basic offerings were, well, basic, mainly ETA movements inside inexpensively made cases.

But I didn’t cross the Rubicon for the Black Bay Bronze for two reasons. One was the brown dial and chestnut bezel, both of which are too similar to the colour of the case, especially after the bronze darkens over time. And the second factor was the colour combination lacked of contrast against East Asian skin (I am of Chinese descent).

So the Black Bay Bronze Blue hit the mark. It’s a handsome combination. The “Bucherer Blue” on the Tudor (it is not the same across all the Bucherer editions) is a dark shade of the colour, which works well with the granular “gilt” print on the dial.

If there is one nit to pick with the dial, it is the plain, sans serif font used for the lettering. Given the vintage inspiration behind this watch, and the entire Heritage line in fact, a serif font would have been more fitting.

On the subject of colours, the fabric NATO-style strap created for the Bucherer edition is an absolutely perfect fit. A slightly dirty blue with a dark yellow stripe running down its centre, the fabric strap echoing the colours of the case and dial just right. The package also includes a brown leather strap that’s identical to that found on the regular Bronze model, but not quite a good fit for the blue version.

The only downside of the strap is that it tends to stretch over time, becoming longer and narrower, which creates tiny gaps between the strap and the lugs.

Besides the colour and commemorative engraving on the back, the watch is identical to the stock Black Bay Bronze. So it’s a largish watch, 43mm in diameter and bigger than the other dive watches in the Heritage line (which are mostly 41mm). The increased size is hardly apparent though, perhaps because of the muted, oxidised case colour as opposed to the polished steel of the typical Black Bay.

Where the size is a slightly disadvantage, and the same holds true for the other Heritage watches, is when the watch is on the fabric strap. The softness of the strap means there’s always a bit of give, even when the watch is worn fairly snug.

The patina on the case develops quickly, especially in the second and third week of wear. Being a bronze alloy with a significant proportion of aluminium, the patina is brown, darkening the colour of the case, rather than changing it.

That’s unlike the conventional bronze alloy used for watches, which has copper as the main alloying metal, resulting in a green patina. The sunken treasure look has an unique appeal but it’s definitely not for everyone.

Treasure but not sunken

When the watch is unworn and the case unoxidised, the case colour is almost indistinguishable from the case back, which is actually PVD-treated steel since bronze can cause a rash. Over time the disparity quickly becomes obvious, illustrating the extent of the oxidisation on the case surface.

Because the patina is the result of surface oxidisation, it tends to slow down or halt after most of the surface is covered in an oxide layer. The patina on the watch pictured here is likely the greatest extent of the patina, having changed little after the first three weeks or so.

For those so included, cleaning up the patina is fairly easy: soaking it in an acidic liquid like lemon juice or vinegar eliminates most of it, except in the hard to reach corners. And Tudor itself can clean up the watch with professional, but abrasive, polishing.

The movement inside is the in-house cal. MT5601, a robustly constructed but functional looking movement. It has several notable features that Tudor touts in the specs, including a silicon hairspring and COSC-certifiation, but the most useful feature is the 70-odd hours of power reserve. That allows the watch to keep the correct time even if it’s off the wrist for a few days, as is usually the case for anyone who wears several watches in rotation.

Retailer repeat

Tudor’s Heritage watches are bestsellers, so they are widely encountered. A big part of the Bronze Blue’s cool factor comes from the fact that it’s a retailer-exclusive. Despite being relatively inexpensive, the Bronze Blue is scarce, which is a plus.

Notably, the Black Bay Bronze Blue is the only retailer-exclusive model to date. Tudor doesn’t do limited editions either, with the exception of the 50-piece Black Bay “L’Italiano” for watch forum Orologi & Passioni.

That will change as other retailer-exclusive editions are already in the pipeline, but as long as such collaborations are done in prudent numbers they will remain novel and desirable. The watch industry has already been learnt its lesson from the dozens and dozens of nearly identical boutique-only models produced by Panerai and Audemars Piguet starting in the late 2000s, which were “special” editions until they weren’t.

Price and availability

The Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer costs SFr3800 or €3730, including local taxes, exactly the same as the ordinary Black Bay Bronze.

It is only available at Bucherer stores, located mostly in German, Switzerland, Austria and France. While supplies are somewhat scarce at the moment, the Black Bay Bronze Blue is not a limited edition, and will be available until at least mid-2018 when Bucherer celebrates its 130th anniversary.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

Louis Vuitton once again offers a version of the beautiful and high-end Escale Spin Time view, this time at a summery orange and yellow themed version (with hand-painted hour cubes). Louis Vuitton calls is your Escale Spin Time Black & Fire mention Q5EG40, there’s nothing technically unique about this watch, but its 1970s-style appearance (and Louis Vuitton title) will surely garner attention. The purchaser will get to visit the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton watch fabricate as well as dine with crucial brand people in the Louis Vuitton household house.MB&F is a standard Only Watch auction audience pleaser and, in contrast to other manufacturers, surely does provide something unique and unexpected for 2017. The MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Only Watch takes the art of 15-year-old ballet dancer and puts it within the watch over the motion. There’s also a bridge which has the distinct appearance of a smiley face. Do not overlook the carefully engraved decoration on the “front” in which you browse the time.One of the hottest independent watches from Baselworld 2017 was Russian Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watch, which is a whimsical yet tasteful high-end timepiece with separates hour and minute dials which collectively with all the upside down moon phase indicator create the form of a silly face. For Just Watch 2017, Konstantin Chaykin provides the unique Joker Red with a different look and a distinctive zirconium case that I feel will draw the eye of his growing fan base.

Having only just signed David Beckham and rugby team the All Blacks, Tudor is adding a third name to its roster of brand ambassadors with Lady Gaga.

Tudor’s partnership with the singer and actress known as much for her music as her unusual sense of style is yet another element of its slow but steady strategy of creating a strong and individual identity for itself, one distinct from that of its much larger parent, Rolex.

Having sold almost 30 million albums, Lady Gaga is one of the world’s most famous musicians, with a strong pull amongst the young (and very young). That’s a different audience from that of Beckham and New Zealand’s All Blacks, illustrating Tudor’s careful segmenting of its ambassadors.

While footballer Beckham got the two-tone Black Bay Steel & Gold, Lady Gaga’s official watch is the classic Black Bay with a red bezel.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

Barbier Mueller is a name I heard from Just Watch 2017. The “completely made in Geneva” statement may work out because the movement is produced by F.P. Journe in Geneva. This is interesting since it’s the first time I’ve noticed an F.P. Journe-labeled wrist watch movement in an eye with someone else’s name on the dialup. This is truly among the most really unique watches at Just Watch 2017, in my opinion.I don’t really understand why Hautlence’s “Pinball, Ball-E – Mechanical Pinball” wrist toy has such a complex name. The item – which does not tell the time, therefore it’s not a watch – is actually a smart miniature pinball (or even pachinko) game directly in your wrist which you could play for those who have an excessive amount of time and money. The brand has generated wrist games like this before and today refers to these “watches” as coming from their Playground mechanical games collection. Using its robot face-style dial up and playful motif, this will attract plenty of eager fingers, but only one buyer.For the most part, these are the Only Watch 2017 watches worth mentioning. Most of the pieces are appealing but not terribly unique. The Breguet is fairly without being clear it’s a new version, and the WOSTEP signed pocket watch is fun although it does not seem that any of the famous names on it really had anything to do with making it. Another nod goes to German Moritz Grossmann who using the Atum Homage watch produces a modern timepiece with a dial that’s a replica of an antique pocket watch – that the outcome is really nice, actually.

The last time Tudor Watches Buy Replica had a brand ambassador was when it signed an up and coming golfer in 1997, after he won his first major. That five year deal ended in 2002 and Tiger Woods decamped for TAG Heuer (and is now with Rolex).

Now Tudor has just signed two giant names in sport: retired footballer David Beckham and the All Blacks, perhaps the world’s most famous rugby team.

The news is the latest development in Tudor’s multi-year strategy of building itself into a brand with an identity distinct from its parent, Rolex.

It follows the earlier steps of rolling out affordable and well designed sports watches – the Heritage Black Bay is the bestseller – as well as expanding its retail network; the brand re-entered the American market in 2013 after a decade’s absence.

The All Blacks, who boast a winning Test record of 77%, will wear the Black Bay Dark, in keeping with their monochromatic uniform.

Beckham, best known for his time at Manchester United and the England national team, gets the two-tone Black Bay S&G and the Black Bay Chrono, both new launches for 2017.

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

The “completely made in Geneva” announcement might work out because the movement is produced by F.P. Journe in Geneva. This is interesting as it is the first time that I’ve noticed an F.P. Journe-labeled wrist watch movement in an eye with someone else’s name on the dialup. This is truly among the most actually unique watches at Only Watch 2017, in my opinion.I don’t really understand why Hautlence’s “Pinball, Ball-E – Mechanical Pinball” wrist toy includes such a complex name. The thing – that does not tell the moment, therefore it is not a watch – is actually a smart miniature pinball (or even pachinko) game directly on your wrist that you can play for those who have an excessive amount of time and cash. The brand has generated wrist games like this before and now refers to these “watches” as coming from their Playground mechanical games collection. Using its own robot face-style dial and playful motif, this will bring plenty of eager fingers, but just one buyer.For the most part, these are the sole Watch 2017 watches worth mentioning. The majority of the bits are attractive but not terribly unique. The Breguet is fairly without being apparent it is a new version, and the WOSTEP signed pocket watch is fun even though it does not appear that any of the famous names on it really had anything to do with making it. Another nod goes into German Moritz Grossmann who using the Atum Homage watch produces a modern timepiece with a dial that’s a replica of an antique pocket watch – that the result is really nice, actually.
Louis Vuitton once again supplies a version of the beautiful and luxury Escale Spin Time view, this time in a summery orange and yellowish themed model (with hand-painted hour cubes). Louis Vuitton calls is your Escale Spin Time Black & Fire reference Q5EG40, There is nothing technically special about this watch, but its own 1970s-style appearance (and Louis Vuitton title) will certainly garner attention. The buyer will get to visit the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton watch fabricate as well as dine with key brand people at the Louis Vuitton household house.MB&F is a typical Only Watch auction crowd pleaser and, compared to other manufacturers, certainly does offer something unique and unexpected for 2017. The MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Just Watch takes the artwork of 15-year-old ballet dancer and places it inside the watch over the movement. There is also a bridge which has the distinct appearance of a smiley face. Do not miss the carefully engraved elephant on the “front” where you read the time.One of the hottest independent watches from Baselworld 2017 was Russian Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watch, and it will be a whimsical yet tasteful luxury timepiece with separates hour and minute dials which collectively with all the upside down moon phase index create the shape of a silly face. For Only Watch 2017, Konstantin Chaykin provides the unique Joker Red with a distinct look and a special zirconium case that I believe will draw the attention of his growing fan base.

A varied selection of five watches spanning 25 years, prime examples of their type, straight from the archives of Tudor in Geneva, make for interesting study. The immediate takeaway is obviously the characteristics and details that distinguish them as “correct” specimens, the sort of minutiae collectors and “scholars” obsess over, details like milling marks on the bezel or manner of the lume plots.

But the five watches are instructive beyond their tangible qualities, particularly in how they relate to the reboot of Tudor starting in 2010 when it unveiled the first of the Heritage reissues.

(The watches illustrated below are: Submariner ref. 94010, Submariner ref. 94010 “M.N”, “Monte Carlo” chronograph ref. 7159, Oyster Prince Tuxedo ref. 7950, and Advisor alarm ref. 10050. The “Monte Carlo” ref. 7159 above is next to a ref. 7032/0 depicted inside a 1970s Tudor catalogue.)

ONE: Super snowflake

Nearly all Tudor dive watches are reminiscent of their contemporaries from Rolex, unsurprising since Tudor was founded to produce more affordable equivalents of Rolex watches that still boasted water-resistant Oyster cases. The visual and tactile resemblance between is immediate, except in the case of the Tudor Submariner “snowflake”.

Being the quintessential Tudor dive watch, and importantly, one with its own, distinct identity, the “snowflake” is the foundation for almost single dive watch in the modern day Heritage collection. From the Black Bay Bronze to the new chronograph, nearly all utilise “snowflake” hands, while the Pelagos diver reproduces the original dial in its entirety. This feature has arguably been the most helpful in giving modern day Tudor watches a well-defined visual identity, one that’s separate from that of its bigger brother.

Introduced on the Submariner ref. 7016 (sans date) and ref. 7021 (with a date) in 1969, the “snowflake” dial gets its name from the unusual square and oblong hour markers, along with a lozenge-tipped hour hand, a clear departure from the typical Rolex dive watch dial.

In 1975 the two were succeeded by the ref. 9401/0 and ref. 9411/0 respectively. Both new models were identical save for an upgrade to the ETA movements that now had the added feature of a hack seconds. The models subsequently became ref. 94010 and ref. 94110 a year later, though the watches remained identical.

The ref. 94010 pictured here is what would be called “new old stock”, exactly how it would have looked fresh off the press in 1975, right down to the sticker on the case back.

TWO: The military connection

Lasting fame for the “snowflake” dial comes thanks to the “MN” Submariners supplied to the French navy. Marked “MN” on the back along with the issue year, these watches were given to divers of the Marine Nationale starting in 1974 with the ref. 7016. Though Tudor had supplied Submariners to French navy starting in the late 1950s (and also the US navy in the 1960s) the “snowflake” Submariners for the Marine Nationale are the quintessential Tudor military-issue watch.

And in 1981, Tudor produced a single example of a left-handed Submariner ref. 94010 with the “snowflake” dial. Apparently for a dive instructor of the Marine Nationale, that specimen formed the basis for the Pelagos LHD.

The example shown here is a Submariner ref. 94010, just like the one shown above, except with a blue dial and bezel. The case back is marked “M.N.” and “80” for 1980, the year of issue.

Unlike the others illustrated here, the “MN” has naturally been well worn, having been an issued wristwatch. The disparity in definition and finish between the case of the “MN” and the Submariner above is an enlightening lesson on wear and tear, and of course case polishing.

THREE: Bevels matter

A key feature of vintage Tudor (and Rolex) sports watches, all the Submariners included, is the sharply bevelled edge of the case. Uniform across nearly all “professional” sports models, a prominent and polished bevel runs lengthwise along the case, from the base of the bezel to the tip of the lugs. The polished edges add a slight sense of refinement to an otherwise robustly constructed watch.

Rolex has since done away with that feature as it streamlined the Oyster case (and also to make the case easier to refinish), but Tudor has savvily retained the bevel in its modern watches. In fact, the cases of the Heritage watches have pronounced bevels that are broad, neat and sharply incised, an inescapable homage to the vintage originals (and also testament to the prowess of modern manufacturing – read on for more).

FOUR: Technology has made watches quantifiably better

Vintage watches have a certain je ne sais quoi that makes them special. Character perhaps, rarity, even a feeling of having been lived with. But modern watches are by and large superior in terms of manufacturing quality, an improvement most pronounced in the entry-level or affordable segment that Tudor competes in in. The only area where vintage watches are arguably finer is in artisanal crafts, like enamelling or haute horlogerie decoration, a domain far out of Tudor’s ambit.

While such technical improvements may not carry weight for a vintage watch aficionado, the ordinary consumer who needs a solid, reasonably priced wristwatch does appreciate such improvements.

But that is not a critique of quality decades ago, it was the state of affairs then, given the prevailing methods of production. The evolution in fit and finish is pronounced when modern watch watches are scrutinised: examine the bezel of the recently launched Black Bay Steel, or the dial of the Black Bay Bronze Blue “Bucherer”.

The precision of machining, finishing and texture on vintage Tudor watches is nuanced, often carrying marks from the production process. The bezel of the “Monte Carlo” chronograph ref. 7159/0 (this one dating to 1973) bears fine concentric milling marks, while engraved markings are uneven.

And the same holds true for the dial, from the applied tritium hour markers to the faint linen texture that’s presumably a consequence of the printed colour. (That being said, the dial is practically pristine, a collector’s dream no less, by the standards of the Monte Carlo, since the dials commonly suffer from bubbling on the dial surface.)

The same holds true for the Advisor, which is a better alarm wristwatch, being louder and easier to set, than the original.

Though it has to be said this particular example of the Advisor alarm, a ref. 10050 from 1969, is not the most charismatic watch in Tudor’s archives. Its immediate predecessor, the Advisor ref. 7926, is more recognisable and handsome, explaining why the ref. 7926 was the inspiration for the modern day Heritage Advisor.

FIVE: Tudor has a couple more things up its sleeve

While a handful of watches are regarded as archetypal Tudor, the brand has a broader and deeper history than just the Submariner or Monte Carlo. Though not a particularly valuable watch today, the Oyster Prince “Tuxedo” ref. 7950 is nonetheless visually interesting. The look is obviously mid-20th century, but still unusual enough to mark it apart from its peers of the day (with the except of one, which was perhaps an inspiration).

Dating from 1955, the year of the model’s introduction, this “Tuxedo” is an example of the untapped archival material Tudor has to play with, beyond the popular sports models. It features a fluted chapter ring for the hour markers, a feature that’s reminiscent of the Universal Geneve Polerouter of 1954, designed by a still young Gerald Genta. The dial is a glossy black lacquer with printed crosshairs.

Tudor is still at an early stage of its revival (which started in 2010 with the introduction of the Heritage remakes, but things in Switzerland take time) to delve into designs that aren’t as obvious as the Submariner “snowflake”, but this might prove useful in building a more striking dress watch, a role that’s now fulfilled by the sedate Tudor Style.

Source for historical Submariner data: Ross Povey and Morgan Fehrenkamp

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

Post author By replicapro
Post date December 25, 2017

The date window around the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and is not really too obstructive or deflecting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there is not a cyclops lens within it. Actually, as you’ll notice in some of the more remote photographs, the date window very presence fades when seen from only a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text in 6 o’clock can also be slightly different, using “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in snowy talking to the remarkable MT5612 caliber oscillating within.Tudor started producing their very own calibers in home (and, it should be said, independent from older sister brand Rolex) in 2015, originally supplying them into their North Flag sport watch and at Pelagos diver’s watches. Since that time, we’ve seen the continuous introduction of manufacture calibers throughout Tudor’s lineup that appears to imply the position from the market Tudor is after. So, though it is not a brand new caliber, it’s still a fairly cool movement with 70 hours of power reserve, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring in a price point where a totally in house movement is uncommon. The MT5612 is also brand new to the Black Bay array because previous versions were all non-date and used the only marginally different MT5602.

Neither entirely steel nor gold, but a blend of the metals, two-tone sports watches are peculiar but nonetheless popular. So the Tudor Black Bay S&G – short for “steel and gold” – is a natural extension to the line of bestselling vintage-inspired dive watches.

As steel and gold watches go Tudor did a good job with the Black Bay S&G, mainly by dialling back the gold quotient. Though the gold bits are the same as on other two-tone watches, namely the bezel, crown and centre links of the bracelet, they have a brushed finish, instead of the polished surface typical for gold (the two-tone Rolex Submariner, for instance, has polished centre links). This gives the gold parts on the Black Bay S&G a subdued, even slightly worn look.

The bezel and end links of the bracelet are solid 18k gold, while the bracelet centre links and crown are gold-capped. That means they are steel parts covered with a layer of gold that’s bonded to the base with heat and pressure, creating a much thicker layer than electroplating.

Besides the two-tone look, the other notable feature of the Black Bay S&G is the date at three o’clock (a feature also shared by the newly launched Black Bay Steel). It’s a practical feature that does not look out of place, since the new Black Bay looks and feels like a modern watch, rather than a retro remake.

The rest of the watch is similar to the all-steel Black Bay watches. The dial is black with a grained finish and gilt print, matched with snowflake hands.

The steel case is 41mm in diameter and rated to 200m. And inside is the COSC-certified MT5612, a calibre from the same family of movements that power most of the Black Bay range.

It is automatic with a 70-hour power reserve, and fitted with a silicon hairspring. More unusually, the calibre has a date function that can be set at any time, even around midnight.

The Black Bay S&G is available with a matching two-tone bracelet or a leather strap. Both versions are delivered with an olive green NATO-style strap. On both the leather and fabric straps the tw0-tone look is less apparent, giving it a more vintage feel.

Price and availability

The Heritage Black Bay S&G (ref. 79733N) will be available starting May 2017, priced at SFr4750 on a bracelet and SFr3600 on the leather strap.

The significant disparity between the two version is due to the 18k gold components of the bracelet.

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