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None are offering revolutionary models, but all are fine and completely wearable. TAG Heuer provides a yellow-themed version of the still new Connected Modular 45 that, of course, needs to come with the Heuer 02T tourbillon watch module – that with these colour tones is unique. Perhaps more things have to be called “luxury kit.” The watch comes with all the expertise of getting lunch for up to four individuals with TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver himself.Zenith offers an interesting also yellow-themed variant of this also new Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch. The motion also appears to have some interesting colours which separate it out of the norm. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Just Watch Edition has a black-colored titanium case and together with all the yellowish colors is a handsome and very bold sports opinion. The watch has all the experience of seeing the Zenith watch manufacture.Hublot’s entrant to Only Watch 2017 is much more sentimental than it’s original. The brand has produced a one-off opinion in party of Hublot brand ambassador Usain Bolt (not their first Usain Bolt watch) who recently announced his retirement. The piece is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt For Only Watch, also has a sapphire and gold case with green accents with regard to the Jamaican flag.

Originally introduced with a red bezel (then variants including bronze and black), the Tudor Watches Youtube Replica Black Bay is now cleaner and sleeker with a new stainless steel bezel. While not a significant change to an existing model, the Black Bay Steel offers a new look and function for practically the same affordable price tag.

The basics of the Black Bay Steel are identical to most of the other Black Bay watches: a steel 41mm case rate to 200m, snowflake hands, matte black dial with the depth rating in red, and an in-house movement.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 8 Tudor Black Bay Steel 14

Two elements set it apart, the more obvious being the bezel. The insert on the elapsed time diver’s bezel is stainless steel finished with circular brushing. The markings on the bezel are engraved and then filled with black lacquer, or red in the case of the triangle at 12.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 9

Tudor Black Bay Steel 10

Most bezel inserts on dive watches are aluminium (or increasingly ceramic), just like the coloured bezels on the other Black Bay models. But anodised aluminium is prone to fade with time, resulting in washed out colours that collectors of vintage watches adore (hence the “ghost” bezels). Steel, on the other hand, is fade-resistant and essentially eternal, apart from general wear.

But more important than its metallurgical qualities is the clean, functional appearance of the steel bezel, which makes the Black Bay Steel its own watch.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 11 Tudor Black Bay Steel 12

Many of the other Black Bay models are obviously retro inspired, modern watches that carry the style of something historical. In contrast, the Black Bay Steel has a modern look and feel, making it more original, largely thanks to the steel bezel.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 13

And importantly, the Black Bay Steel has a date window at three o’clock. It’s a practical feature that often looks out of place in vintage remake watches, as on the Longines 1918 for instance. But because the Black Bay Steel feels contemporary, the date window looks at home.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 15

Inside the Black Bay Steel is the MT5612, a COSC-certified automatic calibre that’s part of the in-house MT56 family of movements, which power most of the Black Bay range.

Built to be a reliable workhorse that’s functional and affordable, the MT5612 has a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance. More evidently convenient to the wearer are its three-day power reserve, and date mechanism that allows setting at any time, even midnight.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 3

Tudor Black Bay Steel 18

Price and availability

The Black Bay Steel (ref. 79730) will reach stores June 2017. Prices will be SFr3300 for the model on a leather strap and SFr3600 for the same on a steel bracelet – that’s just SFr100 over that of the model sans date.

Both versions are accompanied by an additional fabric NATO-style strap in olive green.

Tudor Black Bay Steel 16 Tudor Black Bay Steel 17


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This year, Just Watch decided to debut all of the watch auction lots on the same day, which is a departure from their more traditional strategy of slowly releasing watches over a several-week or several-month period. Nevertheless, certain brands did not really get their acts together and get things done on time. I shall go into that a bit more below. Another semi-new element to this auction is that many of the auction lots incorporate an adventure such as a trip or special meeting – and the watch, of course. These experiences (which are not attached to all the lots, should help liven the bidding up quite a bit once the encounters prove as interesting as the timepieces.A total of 49 lots will be auctioned off throughout the event in November that, sadly, won’t be able to gain from the glitz of having an event in Monaco itself. That said, the watches (well, the whole ones) will probably be traveling across the world “on tour” to ensure potential buyers can check out them. Follow the link below to see if you are in one of the nine cities that will have the watches there for a couple of days at a time beginning at the end of September 2017. From the movie that is embedded within the following article, you can hear myself and David Bredan discuss all 49 of the watches/clocks. We spend only a couple of moments on each in order to bring you our take. This year’s tons are not bad as wearable items, but leave much to be desired when it comes to actually being interesting or unique. Let me go over a few of the most interesting and important lots from Only Watch 2017. For an entire collection of those watches along with technical specifications and auction price estimates check out the watches in the Only Watch site.

When the covers were first taken off the Pelagos LHD last year, it was a surprise. From the left-handed crown to the numbered case back, the Pelagos LHD was different from what Tudor Watches Store Locator Replica had done before. In fact, the Pelagos LHD can be described as a hipster timepiece, being carefully curated to cater to current tastes for a specific type of vintage watch. It combines various elements that collectively evoke memories of vintage sports watches.

Left-handed dive watches are not uncommon, having been historically custom-made for military personnel, either to be worn on the right wrist, or to prevent the crown digging into the back of the palm (as with the Sinn EZM 1 for Germany’s customs police) when worn more conventionally on the left wrist.

Arguably the best known lefty watches are the Panerai Luminor destro watches of the 1940s, named after the Italian word for “right-handed”, which have been been reissued quite profitably. Similarly, Tudor produced a single left-handed Submariner for an officer in the French Marine Nationale in 1981, a watch now in Tudor’s archives that serves as the inspiration for the Pelagos LHD.

LHD is short for “left-hand drive”


From a more practical perspective for a right-handed person, the crown at nine o’clock initially throws you off. At least for the first couple of days of wear it feels off kilter. Oddly enough that sensation isn’t evident with a destro Panerai, maybe because the Luminor crown lock is unusual to start with.

When the crown is hidden under a sleeve, the sensation is magnified – something seems missing. But the incongruence disappears swiftly. After less than a week it feels right, helped by the fact that the rest of the watch looks and feels good.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 3

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 8

The titanium case is a boon. Once exotic titanium is now commonplace and low-cost, but what the alloy lacks in novelty it makes up for in utility. Titanium is lightweight, a quality for which it’s not appreciated enough, especially for a large watch like the 42mm Pelagos LHD. Other comparably sized Tudor dive watches in steel or bronze both look and feel big, while the Pelagos feels functional and unburdened.

Visually titanium is at home with the design philosophy of the watch. The dull grey of the case, which is brushed on all surfaces, is totally at home with the vaguely retro look. And up close the case stands up with scrutiny, revealing impressively sharp edges and neat lines. The bevels on the lugs are notably well done, as are the points of the crown guard.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 6

The black ceramic bezel matches the muted finish of the titanium well, but the insert lacks the solidity of ceramic bezels on other watches (Rolex is the inevitable comparison). That is likely due to several reasons, including the matte finish and the fact that the markings are flush with the surface instead of engraved. But nonetheless the ceramic insert has the qualities that make the material desirable – scratch- and fade-resistance.

The solidly built titanium bracelet adds to the tactile quality, giving it good balance on the wrist. While the watch is delivered with a rubber strap, the titanium bracelet is unquestionably the winner.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 10

The dive extension integrated into the clasp is patented and consists of a link extender, along with a spring-loaded slider that automatically adjusts during a dive. Notably, the spring-loaded slider accomplishes almost exactly the same thing as the finer, and pricier, Glidelock clasp found on Rolex dive watches. While the Tudor extension lacks the finesse of the Rolex, though it is arguably the best at this price point.


Unlike the rest of the watch that’s titanium, the back is steel and engraved with an individual number. Large and pronounced, the number is distinct from the tiny case serial number engraved on one of the lugs (which comes from a series shared by all Tudor cases across model lines). And it is not a limited edition, so the number is not an indication of the total number made.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 2

So the number doesn’t do very much – zero practical value. It does, however, deliver extra satisfaction in ownership, since no other Tudor has a number engraved. It is a contrivance, but a pleasing one.

“Pelagos” in bright red on the dial is another agreeable feature that has no practical purpose, but does summon memories of all those “red letter” Tudor and Rolex sports watches from the glory days of the late 20th century.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 1

One detail I wish Tudor had dispensed with is the ivory Super-Luminova on the dial and hands – even the bezel markings and date disc are off-white. The faux vintage look is on-trend now, but it verges on trying too hard. The Pelagos LHD does not need that to be a success, especially since the watch is not a replica, as the Omega 1957 Trilogy is for instance.

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 7

Design quibbles aside, the legibility is faultless, even in the dark. Even though the bezel and Super-Luminova are ivory, they still glow a bright blue in the dark, with no discernible difference with the conventional Pelagos that has white Super-Luminova.

Similarly the Pelagos LHD is complaint-free mechanically. While the cal. MT5612-LHD inside is nothing to look at, it’s hidden behind the solid back and does everything it should. The three-day power reserve is especially useful since the watch keeps running even if off the wrist for a few days.


The Pelagos LHD costs US$4400 or S$6048 at retail, making it a strong value proposition.

That’s not just down to the specs of the Pelagos LHD versus the competition, but also measured on conventional industry margins. Based on those numbers, Tudor probably makes slightly smaller margins than the competition, while managing above average manufacturing efficiency (perhaps thanks to its big bother Rolex).

Tudor Pelagos LHD review 9


 

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The Pelagos dial is very helpful, very legible, and also excellently made for visibility as a dive watch. The longer one uses a Pelagos, the more I believe one comes to appreciate the utility of the dial in a variety of lighting and reading environments. The apartment, AR-coated sapphire crystal allows for exceptional legibility even at extreme angles, and general dial materials and proportions result in a great tool.I keep saying “tool” over and over again in this review because I am trying to reinforce the point which the Pelagos is so successful in my opinion because it is first a tool, and then a luxury object of need. Watches like the Heritage Black Bay are much less about being more and tools about offering a “look.” The Black Bay is a great timepiece option for a great deal of people, but I believe if you are interested in dive watches because of their usefulness, and appreciate a series of design touches related to that, then the Pelagos is far and away the path to take at Tudor.At this year’s Baselworld, Tudor Watches Malaysia Replica unveiled another addition to their constantly growing Heritage Black Bay series. The new Tudor Heritage Black Bay Steel is a largely cosmetic upgrade to the stove with a stainless steel bezel insert in addition to a polarizing date work on an otherwise familiar looking dial. We recently had the opportunity to go hands on with the new Black Bay Steel and came away impressed with the elegant aesthetics, even if a bit underwhelmed at the minimal degree of actual novelty.

Bucherer is Europe’s largest watch retailer (and the biggest seller of Rolex timepieces), with almost 30 stores and estimated annual sales of over SFr1.5 billion (about US$1.5 billion), giving it considerable clout. For its 130th anniversary in 2018, the chain has debuted a series of special edition wristwatches made by a variety of brands – from Audemars Piguet to Zenith – all characterised by dials in dark blue, the firm’s corporate colour.

The latest to join the band of blue watches is Tudor Watches Watch Snob Replica with the Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue, a variant of its bestselling bronze dive watch. Both the dial and bezel are a dark blue, darker than the shade found on the Pelagos in blue, but similar to the bezel on the Black Bay with a blue bezel.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 5

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 4

The case back is also engraved with the Swiss retailer’s logo and 1888, the year it was founded in Lucerne.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 6

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 8

The rest of the watch is identical to the standard edition – the aluminium-bronze case is 43mm in diameter with a slightly domed sapphire crystal. It’s equipped with the in-house calibre MT5601, a COSC-certified automatic with a silicon hairspring and 70-hour power reserve.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 2

Like the other Tudor Heritage watches, the Bronze Blue is delivered on two straps: a dark blue canvas NATO-style band, as well as a distressed leather strap.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 1

Price and availability 

Priced at SFr3800 or €3730, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze Blue, along with the other Bucherer Blue Editions, will be available at Bucherer stores.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer 7


 

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Protecting all this by the components and presumably water (this technically being a diver’s view) is exactly the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating polished and brushed surfaces that Black Bay enthusiasts know too well. Different here is your bezel insert which is made of steel rather than the aluminum present on preceding Black Bay models. The steel insert looks tough and should add a measure of scratch resistance over aluminum whilst also providing for a military-inspired rugged look. Tudor’s riveted oyster style bracelet, which is used on many other but not all Black Bay versions is a standout. In cases like this, the riveted bracelet perfectly compliments the tool watch style the Black Bay Steel is apparently heading for. As a note, Tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” necklace is among the best out there, combining contemporary performance with twist bars and modern adjustability for the timeless appearance of Submariners from decades ago. In another move to reinforce the military feel, a canvas NATO style strap in olive green is included using the Black Bay Steel if you decide on the stainless steel bracelet design or the also accessible black leather strap version.

Last year Tudor took the covers off its most affordable Black Bay variant, a compact 36mm model without an elapsed time diving bezel. Now that’s been enlarged, proportionately it has to be said, and turned into the Black Bay 41 that’s just as affordably priced.

The case is now 41mm in diameter, making it the same size as the Black Bay and even the new Black Bay Chrono. The 5mm extra it has over the Black Bay 36 is significant, giving it significantly greater presence on the wrist. Its size is magnified by the plain dial and smooth bezel.

Tudor Black Bay 41-2

Despite the current fad for smallish vintage watches, 36mm is too small for most men, though it worked well as a ladies’ watch with a military bent. So the Black Bay 41 is a strong proposition, especially since it’s been upsized correctly.

Tudor Black Bay 41-11

The dial and hands similarly resized to suit the new case. The snowflake hour hand, for instance, is longer, with a larger snowflake at its end.

Tudor Black Bay 41-8 Tudor Black Bay 41-10

All the key characteristics of the smaller model remain: glossy black dial with silver print, flat bezel, and the Oyster-esque case with polished bevels along the edges. The case is rated to 150m, with a screw-down case and back.

Tudor Black Bay 41-9

Inside is the still the ETA 2824, the movement found in Tudor’s entry-level models. Robust and economical, it’ll run reliably for a long, long time, but has the downside of a shortish 38-hour power reserve.

Tudor Black Bay 41-6

Like all of Tudor’s other retro style Heritage models, the Black Bay 41 is sold with either a steel bracelet or leather strap, both of which are accompanied by a spare fabric NATO-style strap woven with a grey camouflage pattern.

Tudor Black Bay 41-7 Tudor Black Bay 41-14 Tudor Black Bay 41-13

The steel bracelet is an Oyster-style affair, which is standard for Heritage watches with ETA movements; models powered by in-house movements get the riveted link bracelet as found on the second generation Black Bay.

Price and availability

The Black Bay 41 will be available starting April 2017, priced at just SFr100 over the 36mm model. That means it’ll cost SFr2500 (about US$2600) on a leather strap and SFr2800 (about US$2900) on a steel bracelet.


Addition March 25, 2017: Type of steel bracelet added.

Addition March 27, 2017: Photos updated.

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None are offering revolutionary versions, but all are pleasant and totally wearable. TAG Heuer provides a yellow-themed variant of the still new Connected Modular 45 that, clearly, has to come with the Heuer 02T tourbillon watch module – that with these colour tones is exceptional. Perhaps more things have to be known as “luxury kit.” The watch comes with the expertise of having lunch for up to four people with TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver himself.Zenith provides an interesting also yellow-themed variant of the also new Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch. The movement also appears to have some interesting colours that separate it out of the norm. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Only Watch Edition has a black-colored titanium case and with the yellow colours is a fine and incredibly bold sports opinion. The watch has the experience of visiting the Zenith watch manufacture.Hublot’s entrant to Just Watch 2017 is more sentimental than it is original. The piece is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt For Only Watch, and contains a sapphire and gold case with green accents in honor of the Jamaican flag. It includes two straps (one in matching flashy yellow-gold tone), and a rather appropriate experience of meeting together with all the Olympic runner Usain Bolt himself (and obtaining a signed t-shirt).

Bucherer is one of the Europe’s biggest watch retailers, and reputed to be the continent’s biggest seller of Rolex. With its 130th anniversary coming up in 2018, the Swiss retailer unveiled over a dozen “Bucherer Blue” special editions created just for the occasion. One of the most affordable, and perhaps the most compelling, is the Tudor Black Bay Bronze Blue.

Announced in May 2017, the Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer is Tudor’s first retailer-exclusive edition (though according to those in the know, not the last). Thanks to a gentleman in Geneva and accommodating Bucherer store manager, I managed to land one a few days after the launch and have been wearing it for much of the last seven weeks.


As with all of Tudor’s Heritage watches, the Black Bay Bronze Blue a lot of watch for the money. For just under US$4000, you get a solid, proprietary movement inside a well made case in the material du jour. And of course the bonus of an uncommon colour palette in “Bucherer Blue”.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 2

When the ordinary Black Bay Bronze was introduced last year, I found it an appealing proposition at just the right price. Higher-end bronze watches were mostly overpriced for what they were, while more basic offerings were, well, basic, mainly ETA movements inside inexpensively made cases.

But I didn’t cross the Rubicon for the Black Bay Bronze for two reasons. One was the brown dial and chestnut bezel, both of which are too similar to the colour of the case, especially after the bronze darkens over time. And the second factor was the colour combination lacked of contrast against East Asian skin (I am of Chinese descent).

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 7

So the Black Bay Bronze Blue hit the mark. It’s a handsome combination.  The “Bucherer Blue” on the Tudor (it is not the same across all the Bucherer editions) is a dark shade of the colour, which works well with the granular “gilt” print on the dial.

If there is one nit to pick with the dial, it is the plain, sans serif font used for the lettering. Given the vintage inspiration behind this watch, and the entire Heritage line in fact, a serif font would have been more fitting.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 13

On the subject of colours, the fabric NATO-style strap created for the Bucherer edition is an absolutely perfect fit. A slightly dirty blue with a dark yellow stripe running down its centre, the fabric strap echoing the colours of the case and dial just right. The package also includes a brown leather strap that’s identical to that found on the regular Bronze model, but not quite a good fit for the blue version.

The only downside of the strap is that it tends to stretch over time, becoming longer and narrower, which creates tiny gaps between the strap and the lugs.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 12


Besides the colour and commemorative engraving on the back, the watch is identical to the stock Black Bay Bronze. So it’s a largish watch, 43mm in diameter and bigger than the other dive watches in the Heritage line (which are mostly 41mm). The increased size is hardly apparent though, perhaps because of the muted, oxidised case colour as opposed to the polished steel of the typical Black Bay.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 11

Where the size is a slightly disadvantage, and the same holds true for the other Heritage watches, is when the watch is on the fabric strap. The softness of the strap means there’s always a bit of give, even when the watch is worn fairly snug.

The patina on the case develops quickly, especially in the second and third week of wear. Being a bronze alloy with a significant proportion of aluminium, the patina is brown, darkening the colour of the case, rather than changing it.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 5

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 3

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 4

That’s unlike the conventional bronze alloy used for watches, which has copper as the main alloying metal, resulting in a green patina. The sunken treasure look has an unique appeal but it’s definitely not for everyone.

Treasure but not sunken

When the watch is unworn and the case unoxidised, the case colour is almost indistinguishable from the case back, which is actually PVD-treated steel since bronze can cause a rash. Over time the disparity quickly becomes obvious, illustrating the extent of the oxidisation on the case surface.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 10

Because the patina is the result of surface oxidisation, it tends to slow down or halt after most of the surface is covered in an oxide layer. The patina on the watch pictured here is likely the greatest extent of the patina, having changed little after the first three weeks or so.

For those so included, cleaning up the patina is fairly easy: soaking it in an acidic liquid like lemon juice or vinegar eliminates most of it, except in the hard to reach corners. And Tudor itself can clean up the watch with professional, but abrasive, polishing.


The movement inside is the in-house cal. MT5601, a robustly constructed but functional looking movement. It has several notable features that Tudor touts in the specs, including a silicon hairspring and COSC-certifiation, but the most useful feature is the 70-odd hours of power reserve. That allows the watch to keep the correct time even if it’s off the wrist for a few days, as is usually the case for anyone who wears several watches in rotation.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 9

Retailer repeat

Tudor’s Heritage watches are bestsellers, so they are widely encountered. A big part of the Bronze Blue’s cool factor comes from the fact that it’s a retailer-exclusive. Despite being relatively inexpensive, the Bronze Blue is scarce, which is a plus.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 6

Tudor Black Bay Bronze Bucherer Blue 8

Notably, the Black Bay Bronze Blue is the only retailer-exclusive model to date. Tudor doesn’t do limited editions either, with the exception of the 50-piece Black Bay “L’Italiano” for watch forum Orologi & Passioni.

That will change as other retailer-exclusive editions are already in the pipeline, but as long as such collaborations are done in prudent numbers they will remain novel and desirable. The watch industry has already been learnt its lesson from the dozens and dozens of nearly identical boutique-only models produced by Panerai and Audemars Piguet starting in the late 2000s, which were “special” editions until they weren’t.

Price and availability

The Black Bay Bronze Blue Bucherer costs SFr3800 or €3730, including local taxes, exactly the same as the ordinary Black Bay Bronze.

It is only available at Bucherer stores, located mostly in German, Switzerland, Austria and France. While supplies are somewhat scarce at the moment, the Black Bay Bronze Blue is not a limited edition, and will be available until at least mid-2018 when Bucherer celebrates its 130th anniversary.


 

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Louis Vuitton once again offers a version of the beautiful and high-end Escale Spin Time view, this time at a summery orange and yellow themed version (with hand-painted hour cubes). Louis Vuitton calls is your Escale Spin Time Black & Fire mention Q5EG40, there’s nothing technically unique about this watch, but its 1970s-style appearance (and Louis Vuitton title) will surely garner attention. The purchaser will get to visit the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton watch fabricate as well as dine with crucial brand people in the Louis Vuitton household house.MB&F is a standard Only Watch auction audience pleaser and, in contrast to other manufacturers, surely does provide something unique and unexpected for 2017. The MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Only Watch takes the art of 15-year-old ballet dancer and puts it within the watch over the motion. There’s also a bridge which has the distinct appearance of a smiley face. Do not overlook the carefully engraved decoration on the “front” in which you browse the time.One of the hottest independent watches from Baselworld 2017 was Russian Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watch, which is a whimsical yet tasteful high-end timepiece with separates hour and minute dials which collectively with all the upside down moon phase indicator create the form of a silly face. For Just Watch 2017, Konstantin Chaykin provides the unique Joker Red with a different look and a distinctive zirconium case that I feel will draw the eye of his growing fan base.

Having only just signed David Beckham and rugby team the All Blacks, Tudor is adding a third name to its roster of brand ambassadors with Lady Gaga.

Tudor’s partnership with the singer and actress known as much for her music as her unusual sense of style is yet another element of its slow but steady strategy of creating a strong and individual identity for itself, one distinct from that of its much larger parent, Rolex.

Having sold almost 30 million albums, Lady Gaga is one of the world’s most famous musicians, with a strong pull amongst the young (and very young). That’s a different audience from that of Beckham and New Zealand’s All Blacks, illustrating Tudor’s careful segmenting of its ambassadors.

Lady-Gaga-Tudor-Black-Bay-watch-1

While footballer Beckham got the two-tone Black Bay Steel & Gold, Lady Gaga’s official watch is the classic Black Bay with a red bezel.

Tudor Black Bay red M79230R


 

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Barbier Mueller is a name I heard from Just Watch 2017. The “completely made in Geneva” statement may work out because the movement is produced by F.P. Journe in Geneva. This is interesting since it’s the first time I’ve noticed an F.P. Journe-labeled wrist watch movement in an eye with someone else’s name on the dialup. This is truly among the most really unique watches at Just Watch 2017, in my opinion.I don’t really understand why Hautlence’s “Pinball, Ball-E – Mechanical Pinball” wrist toy has such a complex name. The item – which does not tell the time, therefore it’s not a watch – is actually a smart miniature pinball (or even pachinko) game directly in your wrist which you could play for those who have an excessive amount of time and money. The brand has generated wrist games like this before and today refers to these “watches” as coming from their Playground mechanical games collection. Using its robot face-style dial up and playful motif, this will attract plenty of eager fingers, but only one buyer.For the most part, these are the Only Watch 2017 watches worth mentioning. Most of the pieces are appealing but not terribly unique. The Breguet is fairly without being clear it’s a new version, and the WOSTEP signed pocket watch is fun although it does not seem that any of the famous names on it really had anything to do with making it. Another nod goes to German Moritz Grossmann who using the Atum Homage watch produces a modern timepiece with a dial that’s a replica of an antique pocket watch – that the outcome is really nice, actually.

The last time Tudor Watches Buy Replica had a brand ambassador was when it signed an up and coming golfer in 1997, after he won his first major. That five year deal ended in 2002 and Tiger Woods decamped for TAG Heuer (and is now with Rolex).

Now Tudor has just signed two giant names in sport: retired footballer David Beckham and the All Blacks, perhaps the world’s most famous rugby team.

The news is the latest development in Tudor’s multi-year strategy of building itself into a brand with an identity distinct from its parent, Rolex.

It follows the earlier steps of rolling out affordable and well designed sports watches – the Heritage Black Bay is the bestseller – as well as expanding its retail network; the brand re-entered the American market in 2013 after a decade’s absence.

Tudor New Zealand All Blacks 1

Tudor New Zealand All Blacks 2

The All Blacks, who boast a winning Test record of 77%, will wear the Black Bay Dark, in keeping with their monochromatic uniform.

Tudor David Beckham 1

Beckham, best known for his time at Manchester United and the England national team, gets the two-tone Black Bay S&G and the Black Bay Chrono, both new launches for 2017.


 

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The “completely made in Geneva” announcement might work out because the movement is produced by F.P. Journe in Geneva. This is interesting as it is the first time that I’ve noticed an F.P. Journe-labeled wrist watch movement in an eye with someone else’s name on the dialup. This is truly among the most actually unique watches at Only Watch 2017, in my opinion.I don’t really understand why Hautlence’s “Pinball, Ball-E – Mechanical Pinball” wrist toy includes such a complex name. The thing – that does not tell the moment, therefore it is not a watch – is actually a smart miniature pinball (or even pachinko) game directly on your wrist that you can play for those who have an excessive amount of time and cash. The brand has generated wrist games like this before and now refers to these “watches” as coming from their Playground mechanical games collection. Using its own robot face-style dial and playful motif, this will bring plenty of eager fingers, but just one buyer.For the most part, these are the sole Watch 2017 watches worth mentioning. The majority of the bits are attractive but not terribly unique. The Breguet is fairly without being apparent it is a new version, and the WOSTEP signed pocket watch is fun even though it does not appear that any of the famous names on it really had anything to do with making it. Another nod goes into German Moritz Grossmann who using the Atum Homage watch produces a modern timepiece with a dial that’s a replica of an antique pocket watch – that the result is really nice, actually.
Louis Vuitton once again supplies a version of the beautiful and luxury Escale Spin Time view, this time in a summery orange and yellowish themed model (with hand-painted hour cubes). Louis Vuitton calls is your Escale Spin Time Black & Fire reference Q5EG40, There is nothing technically special about this watch, but its own 1970s-style appearance (and Louis Vuitton title) will certainly garner attention. The buyer will get to visit the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton watch fabricate as well as dine with key brand people at the Louis Vuitton household house.MB&F is a typical Only Watch auction crowd pleaser and, compared to other manufacturers, certainly does offer something unique and unexpected for 2017. The MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Just Watch takes the artwork of 15-year-old ballet dancer and places it inside the watch over the movement. There is also a bridge which has the distinct appearance of a smiley face. Do not miss the carefully engraved elephant on the “front” where you read the time.One of the hottest independent watches from Baselworld 2017 was Russian Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watch, and it will be a whimsical yet tasteful luxury timepiece with separates hour and minute dials which collectively with all the upside down moon phase index create the shape of a silly face. For Only Watch 2017, Konstantin Chaykin provides the unique Joker Red with a distinct look and a special zirconium case that I believe will draw the attention of his growing fan base.

A varied selection of five watches spanning 25 years, prime examples of their type, straight from the archives of Tudor in Geneva, make for interesting study. The immediate takeaway is obviously the characteristics and details that distinguish them as “correct” specimens, the sort of minutiae collectors and “scholars” obsess over, details like milling marks on the bezel or manner of the lume plots.

But the five watches are instructive beyond their tangible qualities, particularly in how they relate to the reboot of Tudor starting in 2010 when it unveiled the first of the Heritage reissues.

(The watches illustrated below are: Submariner ref. 94010, Submariner ref. 94010 “M.N”, “Monte Carlo” chronograph ref. 7159, Oyster Prince Tuxedo ref. 7950, and Advisor alarm ref. 10050. The “Monte Carlo” ref. 7159 above is next to a ref. 7032/0 depicted inside a 1970s Tudor catalogue.)


ONE: Super snowflake

Nearly all Tudor dive watches are reminiscent of their contemporaries from Rolex, unsurprising since Tudor was founded to produce more affordable equivalents of Rolex watches that still boasted water-resistant Oyster cases. The visual and tactile resemblance between is immediate, except in the case of the Tudor Submariner “snowflake”.

Being the quintessential Tudor dive watch, and importantly, one with its own, distinct identity, the “snowflake” is the foundation for almost single dive watch in the modern day Heritage collection. From the Black Bay Bronze to the new chronograph, nearly all utilise “snowflake” hands, while the Pelagos diver reproduces the original dial in its entirety. This feature has arguably been the most helpful in giving modern day Tudor watches a well-defined visual identity, one that’s separate from that of its bigger brother.

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-8

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-2

Introduced on the Submariner ref. 7016 (sans date) and ref. 7021 (with a date) in 1969, the “snowflake” dial gets its name from the unusual square and oblong hour markers, along with a lozenge-tipped hour hand, a clear departure from the typical Rolex dive watch dial.

In 1975 the two were succeeded by the ref. 9401/0 and ref. 9411/0 respectively. Both new models were identical save for an upgrade to the ETA movements that now had the added feature of a hack seconds. The models subsequently became ref. 94010 and ref. 94110 a year later, though the watches remained identical.

The ref. 94010 pictured here is what would be called “new old stock”, exactly how it would have looked fresh off the press in 1975, right down to the sticker on the case back.

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-1

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-3

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-5

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-6


TWO: The military connection 

Lasting fame for the “snowflake” dial comes thanks to the “MN” Submariners supplied to the French navy. Marked “MN” on the back along with the issue year, these watches were given to divers of the Marine Nationale starting in 1974 with the ref. 7016. Though Tudor had supplied Submariners to French navy starting in the late 1950s (and also the US navy in the 1960s) the “snowflake” Submariners for the Marine Nationale are the quintessential Tudor military-issue watch.

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 5

And in 1981, Tudor produced a single example of a left-handed Submariner ref. 94010 with the “snowflake” dial. Apparently for a dive instructor of the Marine Nationale, that specimen formed the basis for the Pelagos LHD.

The example shown here is a Submariner ref. 94010, just like the one shown above, except with a blue dial and bezel. The case back is marked “M.N.” and “80” for 1980, the year of issue.

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 1

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 3

Unlike the others illustrated here, the “MN” has naturally been well worn, having been an issued wristwatch. The disparity in definition and finish between the case of the “MN” and the Submariner above is an enlightening lesson on wear and tear, and of course case polishing.

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 4

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 2

Tudor Submariner Snowflake Marine Nationale 6


THREE: Bevels matter

A key feature of vintage Tudor (and Rolex) sports watches, all the Submariners included, is the sharply bevelled edge of the case. Uniform across nearly all “professional” sports models, a prominent and polished bevel runs lengthwise along the case, from the base of the bezel to the tip of the lugs. The polished edges add a slight sense of refinement to an otherwise robustly constructed watch.

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-7

Tudor Submariner snowflake 94010-4

Rolex has since done away with that feature as it streamlined the Oyster case (and also to make the case easier to refinish), but Tudor has savvily retained the bevel in its modern watches. In fact, the cases of the Heritage watches have pronounced bevels that are broad, neat and sharply incised, an inescapable homage to the vintage originals (and also testament to the prowess of modern manufacturing – read on for more).

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 11

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 8


FOUR: Technology has made watches quantifiably better

Vintage watches have a certain je ne sais quoi that makes them special. Character perhaps, rarity, even a feeling of having been lived with. But modern watches are by and large superior in terms of manufacturing quality, an improvement most pronounced in the entry-level or affordable segment that Tudor competes in in. The only area where vintage watches are arguably finer is in artisanal crafts, like enamelling or haute horlogerie decoration, a domain far out of Tudor’s ambit.

While such technical improvements may not carry weight for a vintage watch aficionado, the ordinary consumer who needs a solid, reasonably priced wristwatch does appreciate such improvements.

But that is not a critique of quality decades ago, it was the state of affairs then, given the prevailing methods of production. The evolution in fit and finish is pronounced when modern watch watches are scrutinised: examine the bezel of the recently launched Black Bay Steel, or the dial of the Black Bay Bronze Blue “Bucherer”.

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 1

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 4

The precision of machining, finishing and texture on vintage Tudor watches is nuanced, often carrying marks from the production process. The bezel of the “Monte Carlo” chronograph ref. 7159/0 (this one dating to 1973) bears fine concentric milling marks, while engraved markings are uneven.

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 12

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 5

And the same holds true for the dial, from the applied tritium hour markers to the faint linen texture that’s presumably a consequence of the printed colour. (That being said, the dial is practically pristine, a collector’s dream no less, by the standards of the Monte Carlo, since the dials commonly suffer from bubbling on the dial surface.)

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 2

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 9

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 3

Tudor Chronograph Monte Carlo 7159 6

The same holds true for the Advisor, which is a better alarm wristwatch, being louder and easier to set, than the original.

Tudor Advisor alarm ref. 10050 1

Tudor Advisor alarm ref. 10050 3

Tudor Advisor alarm ref. 10050 5

Though it has to be said this particular example of the Advisor alarm, a ref. 10050 from 1969, is not the most charismatic watch in Tudor’s archives. Its immediate predecessor, the Advisor ref. 7926, is more recognisable and handsome, explaining why the ref. 7926 was the inspiration for the modern day Heritage Advisor.

Tudor Advisor alarm ref. 10050 4

Tudor Advisor alarm ref. 10050 2


FIVE: Tudor has a couple more things up its sleeve

While a handful of watches are regarded as archetypal Tudor, the brand has a broader and deeper history than just the Submariner or Monte Carlo. Though not a particularly valuable watch today, the Oyster Prince “Tuxedo” ref. 7950 is nonetheless visually interesting. The look is obviously mid-20th century, but still unusual enough to mark it apart from its peers of the day (with the except of one, which was perhaps an inspiration).

Tudor Oyster Prince Tuxedo ref. 7950 1

Dating from 1955, the year of the model’s introduction, this “Tuxedo” is an example of the untapped archival material Tudor has to play with, beyond the popular sports models. It features a fluted chapter ring for the hour markers, a feature that’s reminiscent of the Universal Geneve Polerouter of 1954, designed by a still young Gerald Genta. The dial is a glossy black lacquer with printed crosshairs.

Tudor Oyster Prince Tuxedo ref. 7950 3

Tudor Oyster Prince Tuxedo ref. 7950 2

Tudor is still at an early stage of its revival (which started in 2010 with the introduction of the Heritage remakes, but things in Switzerland take time) to delve into designs that aren’t as obvious as the Submariner “snowflake”, but this might prove useful in building a more striking dress watch, a role that’s now fulfilled by the sedate Tudor Style.


Source for historical Submariner data: Ross Povey and Morgan Fehrenkamp

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

The date window around the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and is not really too obstructive or deflecting, which can partly be credited to the fact that there is not a cyclops lens within it. Actually, as you’ll notice in some of the more remote photographs, the date window very presence fades when seen from only a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor signature and shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text in 6 o’clock can also be slightly different, using “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in snowy talking to the remarkable MT5612 caliber oscillating within.Tudor started producing their very own calibers in home (and, it should be said, independent from older sister brand Rolex) in 2015, originally supplying them into their North Flag sport watch and at Pelagos diver’s watches. Since that time, we’ve seen the continuous introduction of manufacture calibers throughout Tudor’s lineup that appears to imply the position from the market Tudor is after. So, though it is not a brand new caliber, it’s still a fairly cool movement with 70 hours of power reserve, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring in a price point where a totally in house movement is uncommon. The MT5612 is also brand new to the Black Bay array because previous versions were all non-date and used the only marginally different MT5602.

Neither entirely steel nor gold, but a blend of the metals, two-tone sports watches are peculiar but nonetheless popular. So the Tudor Black Bay S&G – short for “steel and gold” – is a natural extension to the line of bestselling vintage-inspired dive watches.

As steel and gold watches go Tudor did a good job with the Black Bay S&G, mainly by dialling back the gold quotient. Though the gold bits are the same as on other two-tone watches, namely the bezel, crown and centre links of the bracelet, they have a brushed finish, instead of the polished surface typical for gold (the two-tone Rolex Submariner, for instance, has polished centre links). This gives the gold parts on the  Black Bay S&G a subdued, even slightly worn look.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-2

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-5

The bezel and end links of the bracelet are solid 18k gold, while the bracelet centre links and crown are gold-capped. That means they are steel parts covered with a layer of gold that’s bonded to the base with heat and pressure, creating a much thicker layer than electroplating.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-7

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-6

Besides the two-tone look, the other notable feature of the Black Bay S&G is the date at three o’clock (a feature also shared by the newly launched Black Bay Steel). It’s a practical feature that does not look out of place, since the new Black Bay looks and feels like a modern watch, rather than a retro remake.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-8

The rest of the watch is similar to the all-steel Black Bay watches. The dial is black with a grained finish and gilt print, matched with snowflake hands.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-4

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-3

The steel case is 41mm in diameter and rated to 200m. And inside is the COSC-certified MT5612, a calibre from the same family of movements that power most of the Black Bay range.

It is automatic with a 70-hour power reserve, and fitted with a silicon hairspring. More unusually, the calibre has a date function that can be set at any time, even around midnight.

The Black Bay S&G is available with a matching two-tone bracelet or a leather strap. Both versions are delivered with an olive green NATO-style strap. On both the leather and fabric straps the tw0-tone look is less apparent, giving it a more vintage feel.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-10

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-9

Price and availability

The Heritage Black Bay S&G (ref. 79733N) will be available starting May 2017, priced at SFr4750 on a bracelet and SFr3600 on the leather strap.

The significant disparity between the two version is due to the 18k gold components of the bracelet.

Tudor Black Bay S&G 79733N-11


 

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Best Tudor Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica

The date window on the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and isn’t really too obstructive or deflecting, which could partly be credited to the fact that there isn’t a cyclops lens within it. In fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more remote photographs, the date window very presence fades when seen from only a few feet off. As you’d imagine, the Tudor Watches Za Replica signature and also shield sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text at 6 o’clock is also slightly different, using “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in snowy talking to the remarkable MT5612 caliber oscillating within.Tudor started producing their very own calibers in home (and, it should be said, separate from mature sister manufacturer Rolex) from 2015, originally supplying them into their North Flag sport watch and at Pelagos diver’s watches. Since then, we have seen the steady introduction of fabrication calibers during Tudor’s lineup that seems to indicate the position in the marketplace Tudor is later. So, although it isn’t a brand new caliber, it’s still a fairly cool movement with 70 hours of power book, a somewhat standard 28,800 bph operating speed, and a silicone hairspring at a cost point where a totally in house movement is uncommon. The MT5612 is also brand new to the Black Bay array because previous versions were all non-date and utilized the only marginally different MT5602.
The date window on the Black Bay Steel is rectangular and is not really too obstructive or deflecting, which could partially be credited to the fact that there isn’t a cyclops lens within it. In fact, as you’ll notice in some of the more distant photos, the date window very presence fades when viewed from just a few feet away. As you’d imagine, the Tudor Watches London Replica signature and also protect sit at 12 o’clock. Dial text in 6 o’clock is also slightly different, using “200m : 660ft” printed in red above “Chronometer Officially Certified” in snowy talking to the impressive MT5612 caliber oscillating within.Tudor started producing their very own calibers in home (and, it should be noted, independent from mature sister brand Rolex) in 2015, initially providing them in their North Flag sport watch and in Pelagos diver’s watches. Since that time, we have seen the steady introduction of manufacture calibers throughout Tudor’s lineup which appears to indicate the position from the marketplace Tudor is after. The brand new Tudor Black Bay Steel has the Identical MT5612 since Tudor’s North Flag and Pelagos. So, though it isn’t a brand new caliber, it is still a fairly cool motion with 70 hours of power book, a marginally standard 28,800 bph operating rate, and a silicone hairspring in a cost point where a totally in house movement is rare. The MT5612 is also brand new to the Black Bay range because previous models were all non-date and used the only marginally different MT5602.
Louis Vuitton once again supplies a variant of their beautiful and high-end Escale Spin Time view, this time at a summery orange and yellowish themed version (with hand-painted hour cubes). Louis Vuitton calls is the Escale Spin Time Black & Fire mention Q5EG40, There is nothing technically special about this view, but its 1970s-style look (and Louis Vuitton name) will certainly garner attention. The purchaser will get to visit the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton watch manufacture in addition to dine with crucial brand folks in the Louis Vuitton household house.MB&F is a typical Only Watch auction crowd pleaser and, compared to other brands, certainly does offer something unique and surprising for 2017. The MB&F Horological Machine No. 8 Only Watch takes the artwork of 15-year-old ballet dancer and puts it inside the watch within the movement. There is also a bridge which has the distinct look of a smiley face. Given that the Just Watch 2017 market is all about a children’s medical charity, the youth-art motif works nicely here. Do not overlook the carefully engraved decoration on the “front” in which you read the time.One of the most popular independent watches from Baselworld 2017 was Russian Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker watch, which is a whimsical yet tasteful luxury timepiece with separates hour and minute dials which collectively with the upside down moon phase index create the form of a silly face. For Only Watch 2017, Konstantin Chaykin offers the unique Joker Red with a distinct appearance and a distinctive zirconium case that I feel will draw the attention of his growing fan base.
Protecting this all from the components and presumably water (this technically being a diver’s watch) is exactly the same 41mm, 200m water resistant, stainless steel case, featuring alternating polished and brushed surfaces which Black Bay fans know too well. Also carried over from prior versions will be the anti-reflective, domed sapphire crystal along with the Tudor Watches Warranty Replica rose engraved crown. Different this is your bezel insert which is made from steel as opposed to the aluminum present on preceding Black Bay versions. The steel insert appears tough and should add a measure of scratch resistance over aluminum while at the same time providing for a military-inspired rugged appearance. Tudor’s riveted oyster style bracelet, that can be used on many other but not all Black Bay models is a standout. As a note, Tudor’s execution of a modern “riveted style” bracelet is among the best on the market, combining contemporary performance with twist bars and contemporary adjustability for the timeless appearance of Submariners from years ago. In another move to bolster the military feel, a canvas NATO design strap in olive oil is comprised using the Black Bay Steel if you decide on the stainless steel bracelet model or the additionally available black leather strap version.
Another cosmetic bit on the LHD which I really like is that the red “Pelagos” text on the dial. This is actually ironic since I lately criticized Rolex to do the exact same thing about the new Sea-Dweller 126600. I find that the red text to be a little more distracting on the Sea-Dweller, and I also felt that it had been too much of a direct nod to a classic Sea-Dweller that’s valuable today only because it is less common. The 43mm broad Sea-Dweller is a cool watch for certain, but it does not really innovate — at least not as much as the Pelagos. Therefore that the red text on the Pelagos isn’t only a bit more visually appealing in my opinion, but also feels like a less clear nod to the past and does not appear to try to specify the watch as much in the Pelagos as it does the brand new Sea-Dweller. Again, it wouldn’t stop me from actually enjoying the Sea-Dweller, but in regards to $10,000 and luxury watches, we are entitled to become exceptionally picky.What also caught my attention with the Pelagos LHD is your beige-colored hour markers, bezel markers, and hands. The off-white look is a bit easier on the eyes than the stark white of the normal Pelagos models, but retains an exceptional degree of comparison with the matte black dial — making for really good legibility. More so, the blend of black, titanium gray, and beige colors, in my view, works together very nicely.
The first Pelagos watches had a limited lifespan since just a couple of decades later Tudor decided to substitute the Korean ETA-sourced automatic motions with those made in-house by Tudor. In 2015, aBlogtoWatch reviewed the Tudor Pelagos 25600 TB watch in blue, that sported the in-house made quality MT5612 automatic movement. Besides this new motion, the case was made a hair thicker, as well as the dial text changed a bit. The purchase price of this Pelagos went up a few hundred dollars, but is still considered an excellent value when compared with the competition.The Tudor Pelagos LHD was debuted (here on aBlogtoWatch) as a mid-cycle release toward the end of 2016. “LHD” stood for “left-handed,” meaning that the crown was put on the left side of the situation, versus the right side. Most left-handed watches are actually not worn to the perfect hand, but rather on the left hand (as right-handed watches are) because people either like the look of the crown facing the direction, or since it increases wearing relaxation as the crown is not in a position to dig in to your wrist.Tudor claims that the impetus for the invention of the Pelagos LHD has been in honor of several models they produced in the 1970s for left-handed divers in the French Navy. As somebody who is left-handed (and dives), I have never actually considered taking an automated watch off to end once in a while a big deal, but it is a fantastic thing to get watches out there having crowns on both sides of the case. I state this to imply that the left-handed position of the crown onto the case does not have any practical significance for me, but only makes the watch a bit more distinctive among other Pelagos models — offering valuable personality that us watch nerds so very much enjoy from the watches we adore.
The Majority of the LVMH group watch brands are participating in the Just Watch auction this season for example Zenith, Hublot, Louis Vuitton, and TAG Heuer. None are providing revolutionary versions, but all are fine and totally wearable. TAG Heuer provides a yellow-themed variant of the still new Connected Modular 45 that, clearly, has to come with all the Heuer 02T tourbillon watch module – that with these colour tones is unique. The name is your TAG Heuer Luxury Kit “Just Watch” Special Edition. Maybe more things need to be known as “luxury kit.” The watch comes with all the experience of getting lunch for up to four individuals with TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver himself.Zenith offers an interesting also yellow-themed variation of the also new Zenith Defy El Primero 21 watch. The movement also seems to have some interesting colors that separate it out of the norm. The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Just Watch Edition has a black-colored titanium case and together with the yellow colours is a fine and incredibly bold sports watch. The watch comes with all the experience of visiting the Zenith watch manufacture.Hublot’s entrant to Only Watch 2017 is more sentimental than it is first. The piece is the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Usain Bolt For Only Watch, and has a sapphire and golden case with green accents with regard to the Jamaican flag.

Making its debut inside the new Tudor Watches Trafford Centre Replica Black Bay Chrono, the MT5813 is a lot of movement for comparatively little money. It’s made by Breitling for Tudor, and is likely the highest spec Swiss made chronograph movement for the money on the market today, being inside a watch that costs less than US$5000.

The MT5813 has a column wheel as the start-stop switch for the chronograph, as well as a vertical clutch that transmits power from the base movement to the chronograph mechanism.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-4

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-5

Both are features standard in mid- to high-end modern chronograph movements like the calibre 4130 in the Rolex Daytona (which according to industry lore was developed by many of the same engineers who subsequently created the Breitling calibre).

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813 4

It also has a 70-hour power reserve, meaning it’ll run for three days on a full wind. And the balance wheel is fitted with a silicon hairspring, a technological convenience that’s resistant to magnetism, temperature variations, as well as not needing any adjustment.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-6

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-10

The movement has a solid, even sophisticated, construction, but is evidently produced in a mechanical manner. The look is functional and straightforward. Steel chronograph levers are stamped and tumble-finished, while the gilded gears are sandblasted. And the spiral graining on the edge of the base plate is obviously engraved by machine.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813 2

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-7

The Breitling connection

Despite the “MT” prefix, which is short for “Manufacture Tudor”, the MT5813 is manufactured by Breitling, a fact Tudor candidly revealed, to its credit.

It’s essentially a variant of the Breitling 01 (or B01) movement, the in-house movement Breitling introduced in 2009. That’s the same calibre used as the base for last year’s awesomely high tech Chronoworks.

Having embarked on a collaboration with Breitling several years ago, the MT5831 chronograph movement is produced by Breitling for Tudor. And in return, Tudor will supply its own automatic MT56 movement to Breitling; that’s the same calibre found in the second generation Pelagos and Black Bay.

The reciprocal arrangement makes sense, since each brand has likely built up production capacity that’s more than enough to satisfy its own demand. Breitling, for instance, built a four-storey building in La Chaux-de-Fonds for production of the Breitling 01 movement.

Breitling 01 B01 chronograph movement

What sets it apart

Several features distinguish the Tudor version from from a Breitling movement. The first two are cosmetic and the most obvious: the sandblasted finish on the bridges and base plate, as well as the rotor design. Both are also found on Tudor’s own in-house calibres.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813 1

More significant is the Tudor regulator, made up of a free sprung balance wheel with four adjustable masses, which is the same balance is found on Tudor’s own movements.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-8

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-9

And on the front, the elapsed minute counter is for 45 minutes, instead of the more conventional 30-minute counter.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 79350-2

The value

While the historical congruence of the Black Bay Chrono is controversial (since the diver’s watch dial doesn’t tally with the auto racing tachymetric bezel), its value is more certain.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono 79350-5

Priced at SFr4800 (that’s about US$4840) on a bracelet, the Black Bay Chrono is almost half the price of a similar Breitling Chronomat with the Breitling 01 movement.

That’s about as affordable as it gets for a Swiss made chronograph with a comparable movement. In fact, it’s almost comparable to Seiko’s automatic chronographs, which are probably world champions in the value for money stakes.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono MT5813-11