Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Watch What-If: Luxury Swiss Star Wars Watches Watch What-If

Star Wars fever is back this year, as later in 2015, the popular science fiction movie franchise sees its seventh film with Star Wars: The Force Awakens. We recently learned that Nixon from California will be producing some exclusive Star Wars watches, and it is no secret that many modern, avant-garde luxury watches were inspired by story universes such as Star Wars and Star Trek. To that end, we wanted to see what it might be like to have Star Wars watches produced by some of the more popular and “mainstream” luxury Swiss watch makers – which is the subject of this installment of “Watch What-If.”

Once again, the art and concepts are by Niklas Bergenstjerna – who worked with us to create these five fantasy Star Wars watches by Swiss watch brands you know. The idea is that the characters who inspired these watches might very likely actually wear them (if either were to exist). I hope that these fit into the almost religious “Star Wars canon.” Here are words directly from Mr. Bergenstjerna:

Omega Jedi-Master Watch: Yoda

Above, you’ll find a minimalistic classic watch for Jedi Master Yoda, that is ceramic and made to last for a very long time. No fuss, just the time in the Jedi-Master watches. Less is more. Though, an additional digital ”wood-cord-watch” is useful when leaving Dagobah for other places in the universe. The crest of the Jedi Council and Yoda’s personal crest are on the dial, and there is a classic Yoda quote on the bezel.

Watch What-If: Luxury Swiss Star Wars Watches Watch What-If

Bell & Ross Death & Star Pocket Watch – Darth Vader

Classic timepiece for an elderly villain, so Darth Vader gets a pocket watch. The watch has a Force detector, just in case your own abilities should fail. Design is inspired by the Death Star.

Watch What-If: Luxury Swiss Star Wars Watches Watch What-If

Hublot Big Bang Bounty Hunter – Boba Fett

A bold digital daily beater for the bounty hunter in need of keeping deadlines. Boba Fett would approve. The symbols in the center and the upper left corner are from Boba Fett’s armor: a Mandalorian crest and skull.

Watch What-If: Luxury Swiss Star Wars Watches Watch What-If

 Blancpain Naboo Watch – Queen Amidala

Queen Amidala’s make-up was the inspiration for the overall white design with details in red. The Naboo royal crest is in the center of the dial, along with details in lace.

Watch What-If: Luxury Swiss Star Wars Watches Watch What-If

I’ve not talked about how 108,000 bph sounds yet. You can certainly hear it. The various pieces of the Aeronith-cased Defy Lab I had evaluated sounded just a little bit different. That tells me that as more watches have higher-frequency movements, more attention will need to be paid to case materials because of how sound waves leak out. Even minor differences in the cases (given the structure of foamy aluminum) changed the sound profiles from the 15Hz movements. It is a pleasant sound, but fast paced given its manic rapidity. The watch is also comfortable on the wrist – and looking at the dial with its ever-vibrating Zenith Oscillator offers a fun animation to watch when you want something to distract your eyes.Upcoming models of the Zenith Defy Lab will maintain the same 44mm wide, 14.5mm thick case (water resistant to 50m), but I don’t think they will be in Aeronith. They will also cost much less than these more exclusive pieces. The watch community will be impressed with the relatively reasonable price, which I believe will be around 10,000 Swiss Francs. It is a cost that no longer requires watch lovers to consider between a new timepiece and a new car. The watch also allows watch addicts to have new conversations about accuracy and the performance of watch movements as being something worth caring about. For years mechanical watch lovers more or less convinced themselves that thinking about accuracy was sort of silly because your standard cheap quartz watch will most always best even an expensive mechanical watch when it comes to accuracy.

Zenith Star Pilot Parsec – Han Solo

A transparent Zenith “modern” pilot watch with a Han Solo quote. Parsec meter subsidiary dial is for racing, and no need for a crown, since it’s adjusted by touch on the right side of the case. Large asteroid crater dial and Rebel Alliance strap.

Niklas Bergenstjerna is a freelance graphic designer and watch lover based in the south of Sweden. niklex.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Not all chronographs are created equal – and if there ever was one to rightfully claim to be superior to at least most of the others, then that’s the El Primero caliber. The Zenith El Primero Original 1969 watch, contrary to its name, is a relatively new piece from Zenith, albeit one that promises to remain authentic to an original design with which Zenith debuted its remarkable chronograph movement family.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

If you are the type of watch lover keen on owning a piece of haute horlogerie, but for whatever reason do not wish to, or simply cannot go for a minute repeater or a tourbillon, your best option is probably to just get a chronograph. For its sheer complexity, even to this day, the chronograph remains one of the most challenging-to-make complications – yes, even more complex than a perpetual calendar or a tourbillon, as echoed by numerous master watch makers I discussed this topic with. The history behind the Zenith watches uk Replica El Primero further proves this point.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

It was during the 1960s that four major brands (along with some others) got into cut-neck competition over creating the first automatic chronograph wristwatch. Heuer and Breitling collaborated (with the help of Hamilton, Buren, and Dubois-Depraz), while Seiko and Zenith were pretty much on their own. Who actually was first remains the topic of heated – and I’m sorry, but rather pointless – debate to this day. You get a different answer when you consider who was the first to debut the movement, the first to produce working prototypes, or the first to bring it to the market.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The “Original, Original” Zenith El Primero A386 from 1969.

The actual point is that all involved parties had to overcome tremendous challenges to create what they say was the first chronograph wristwatch that featured automatic winding… and all three succeeded, in one way or another, by early 1969. Some 46 years later, the question perhaps should be more about what this remarkable competition has given us today, rather than whose marketing department has the most to work with. In their own right, the Caliber 11 from Heuer, the 6139 from Seiko, and the El Primero by Zenith were, and are, awe-inspiring little machines.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

While all three calibers were unique in their own right, the El Primero offered something that even to this day sets it apart from the absolute majority of other movements (chronograph or otherwise): its 5 Hertz operating frequency.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Before we go into the numerous details of the Zenith watches tokyo Replica El Primero Original 1969, let us bang on about the movement for just a bit longer. Called the El Primero 400, this particular version closely resembles the original one debuted in 1969. Composed of 278 components, this column-wheel chronograph offers the hours, minutes, and chronograph seconds through hands mounted in the center of the dial, running seconds at 9, 30-minute and 12-hour chronograph counters at 3 and 6 o’clock, respectively, and the date at 04:30 on the dial.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The El Primero 400 runs at 36,000 vibrations per hour (but of course!), and still offers a “minimum 50 hours” of power reserve. So what difference does this extra “speed” of 5 Hertz make? Technically, the higher the frequency, the better the chronometric performance over an extended period of time. A higher beat-rate, with the balance wheel making 10 semi-oscillations (5 left and 5 right turns) per second gives it greater stability and resistance against shocks, positional errors, and other factors that negatively affect the timekeeping performance.

Furthermore, because the balance wheel ticks 10 times – as opposed to the much more common 8, or sometimes only 6 or 5 times, encountered in most other watches – the seconds hands advance in a visually smoother way, with an almost perfectly fluid, sweeping motion. Incidentally, 5 Hertz may just be the perfect frequency, as the motion of the seconds hands is remarkably smooth – but not so much to imply an electrical movement underneath, as the small jumps are still visually present.

The discussion about mechanical wristwatch accuracy can be long and is way outside the scope of us introducing the Zenith Defy Lab. Suffice it to say that Zenith’s claimed accuracy of 0.3 seconds per day for the caliber ZO 342 movement in this first model is going to cause a lot of people to do a double take because of how impressive it is (for a mechanical watch). Note that for production models down the road (when there is less opportunity to spend so much time choosing the right parts), accuracy will be guaranteed to +/- 0.5 seconds a day… with no loss in rate results as the torque of the mainspring winds down. In other words, the rate results are a flat horizontal line, which is something that silicon technology has made much more readily available in mechanical time measuring tools.
Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Over the years, Zenith watches models Replica has modified the El Primero in countless ways, adding complex calendars and even gimbal-suspended escapements (hands-on here) to it. And yet, as briefly discussed above, the complexity of this “base” movement is already truly remarkable. Luckily, the Zenith El Primero Original 1969 comes with a sapphire crystal case-back, exposing the strikingly beautiful and indeed very technical-looking movement inside. The large, skeletonized automatic rotor runs on seven ball bearings, and sports a skeletonized Zenith star logo in its center, along with wide Geneva striping and some bold “Zenith El Primero Manufacture Le Locle” scripts engraved.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Once you look behind the rotor, machine-finished parts of very high quality are revealed. While the El Primero looks very impressive at first, one has to bear in mind that it was designed to be a tool, a device, a workhorse movement – and upon closer inspection, that shows. Comparing this Zenith El Primero to some other movements is like comparing a 4.0 liter flat six from a 911 to a roaring V12 from a Lamborghini: one was designed to work tirelessly, rain or shine, while the other is rather more delicate, finicky, and impresses in a more exotic way.

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Zenith El Primero Original 1969 Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The El Primero 400 is not shy about displaying rather plain looking surfaces: the large and imminently visible area behind the two chronograph runner gears, as well as the surface behind and around the balance wheel both stayed plain, with rough edges also on show. Blued screws, brushed cams, and that massive rotor are at play to direct your sight away from the other areas – but the equation adds up more to the El Primero being true to itself than it grandstanding as an exercise in fine watchmaking.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

It’s still post-SIHH 2016 fever here at aBlogtoWatch, and we are beginning the first of February’s two round-ups with a continuation of new watches that we saw at SIHH earlier last month. We begin with Greubel Forsey’s magnificent Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant watch, a breathtaking piece with two balance wheels and an intricate differential system. Next, we take a look at Audemars Piguet’s very colorful and loud new Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronographs as well as one of the most important watches at the show, Parmigiani’s Senfine concept watch, which features the groundbreaking Genequand escapement system.

New watches aside, we also discuss the importance and relevance of in-house movements. Just how vital are they and should it affect your watch purchasing decision? We’ll leave the final decision up to you, but there are some great points on both sides which we debate. Finally, we check in with Zenith CEO Aldo Magada to talk about the significance of the brand’s El Primero movement and branding, and also to find out more about the brand’s plans for these challenging times.

1. Greubel Forsey Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

Greubel Forsey is known for two things: tourbillons and an extreme attention to the craft of hand-finishing. However, 2016 will probably be one of the few times where tourbillons took a back seat at Greubel Forsey. After the simple but magnificent Signature 1, the other new watch from Greubel Forsey this year is the Double Balancier À Différentiel Constant. As you can probably tell from its name, this watch has two balance wheels inclined at 30 degrees and regulated by an exquisitely constructed differential. The aim of all of this is better timekeeping. But as you can also see from the photo, the watch looks absolutely mega. See more of this watch by hitting the link below.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph Watches Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore is widely regarded as being the Royal Oak’s louder, brasher, and more colorful sibling. And for 2016, Audemars Piguet is taking that thought to the next level by introducing the very colorful Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph. It can be thought of as the Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch with the added chronograph complication, and one of the cool things about it is that it is being offered in four colors. There’s orange, lime green, yellow, and blue. And regardless of some reactions, we think these new watches will prove themselves to be very popular, especially among younger watch lovers.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Point/Counterpoint: Is An In-House Movement In A Watch That Important?

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

There’s been an increased emphasis on in-house movements over the past couple of years. Ever since ETA’s decision to cut supplies to brands outside of the Swatch Group, more and more brands are coming up with their own movements, and that’s generally a good thing because we are seeing some genuine innovations on that front. But on the other hand, there’s also the prevailing thought that in-house movements are being used by brands to justify their higher costs, and that in-house movements are also not necessarily better than tried and tested movements like the ETA 2824. Here, we discuss the merits and disadvantages of in-house movements, and wonder if they are really all that important.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Parmigiani Senfine Concept Watch Realizes The Genequand System For Exciting New Mechanical Oscillator

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

One of the most exciting developments in watchmaking is the Genequand system. This is a new escapement system that uses silicon to dramatically improve timekeeping. According to its inventor, Pierre Genequand, this system will allow the balance wheel to beat at a staggering 86,400bph and will offer as much as 30 to 45 days of power reserve. And at SIHH 2016 earlier this year, Parmigiani finally unveiled the Senfine concept watch that puts the Genequand system into a wristwatch. If all goes well, this watch could possibly be put into production in the next couple of years.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

I’ve not talked about how 108,000 bph sounds yet. You can certainly hear it. The various pieces of the Aeronith-cased Defy Lab I had evaluated sounded just a little bit different. That tells me that as more watches have higher-frequency movements, more attention will need to be paid to case materials because of how sound waves leak out. Even minor differences in the cases (given the structure of foamy aluminum) changed the sound profiles from the 15Hz movements. It is a pleasant sound, but fast paced given its manic rapidity. The watch is also comfortable on the wrist – and looking at the dial with its ever-vibrating Zenith Oscillator offers a fun animation to watch when you want something to distract your eyes.Upcoming models of the Zenith Defy Lab will maintain the same 44mm wide, 14.5mm thick case (water resistant to 50m), but I don’t think they will be in Aeronith. They will also cost much less than these more exclusive pieces. The watch community will be impressed with the relatively reasonable price, which I believe will be around 10,000 Swiss Francs. It is a cost that no longer requires watch lovers to consider between a new timepiece and a new car. The watch also allows watch addicts to have new conversations about accuracy and the performance of watch movements as being something worth caring about. For years mechanical watch lovers more or less convinced themselves that thinking about accuracy was sort of silly because your standard cheap quartz watch will most always best even an expensive mechanical watch when it comes to accuracy.

Sometimes, the greatest achievement simply lies in making something good even better. That’s certainly the case for the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This isn’t the first time that we have seen Jaeger-LeCoultre’s gyrotourbillon in a Reverso case, but the newest iteration is a lot more wearable. The reason being that the watchmaking geniuses at La Grande Maison have managed to shave many millimeters from the dimensions of the original Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. In fact, the new Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon measures just 12.4mm thick – roughly the same as a Rolex Submariner – as compared to the whopping 16mm of the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. That’s seriously impressive for a watch with a multi-axis spinning tourbillon.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

6. Oris Divers Sixty Five Watch Review

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends February 12, 2016 ABTW Round-Ups

There seems to be a lot of nostalgia going on, not just in the watch world. Just look at new cameras from Olympus and Fujifilm, they are all designed to look like cameras from the past. This trend is still going well and strong in the world of watches, and after seeing the Oris Divers Sixty Five watch at Baselworld last year, we now bring you a full in-depth review. Based on a vintage Oris dive watch from the Sixties, the Divers Sixty Five watch was undoubtedly one of the standout watches from last year’s Baselworld fair. The design, though clearly vintage inspired, is well balanced and is done tastefully. Coupled with its accessible price tag, is it any wonder that it is so popular and sought after?

Source: aBlogtoWatch

Next, our article picks from around the Web »

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Watches Event @ Topper In Burlingame, CA, December 4, 2015 Shows & Events

Sponsored Post

We at Topper Fine Jewelers are very excited to host one of Zenith’s watchmakers in-store on Friday afternoon, December 4th in Burlingame, California. It will provide a great opportunity to learn more about the famous El Primero movement, as their watchmaker performs assembly and disassembly of an El Primero caliber in the store. So that our guests can appreciate her work, we will project the process up on a big screen as she narrates. That’s not all…

We also invite aBlogtoWatch readers to join us and visit the store in Burlingame, California between between 1:00 – 5:30 PM.  It will also be an opportunity to see new Zenith watches worth it Replica novelties, such as the Zenith 6150 with 100-hour power reserve, Elite Chronograph Classic, and the Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze. This Bronze Pilot watch was one of Ariel’s 10 best watches from Baselworld this year. We will be giving away Zenith-related prizes, and offering a Hennessey gift set with the purchase of a Zenith Watch. We hope to see you there!

The “Celebrate Zenith Watches at Topper Fine Jewelers” event will take place on Friday December 4th, 2015 from 1:00pm – 5:30pm at the Topper Fine Jewelers store located at 1315 Burlingame Ave, Burlingame, CA 94010. topperjewelers.com

For those who cannot attend, but find the subject interesting, we will do a livestream at 3PM PST on December 4th, that you can access here.

Sponsored Posts are a form of advertising that allows sponsors to share useful news, messages, and offers to aBlogtoWatch readers in a way traditional display advertising is often not best suited to. All Sponsored Posts are subject to editorial guidelines with the intent that they offer readers useful news, promotions, or stories. The viewpoints and opinions expressed in Sponsored Posts are those of the advertiser and not necessarily those of aBlogtoWatch or its writers. 

With that said, I am among a large population of mechanical watch lovers who do care about accuracy. That there is still development in the traditional watch industry to make systems that actually pioneer new achievements in accuracy will be something that pretty much any watch collector can stand behind. I know that not everyone will be a fan of the aesthetic design of the Defy Lab, or the Defy El Primero 21 for that matter, but I think they will want the technology for sure. Zenith and LVMH now take a leading role in the pursuit of accuracy, how will the others respond? Attached to the case of the Defy Lab is a rubber strap with an alligator exterior lining and a titanium buckle. Price for the 10 piece unique Zenith Defy Lab reference 27.9000.342/78.R582 is 29,900 CHF each.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

This very high-end limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette is the type of watch I’d want to own but not to wear. That isn’t a terribly odd thing to say, given the 60mm wide case that is arguably better looking mounted on a table or shelf in some manner, rather than looking quite literally over-sized on your wrist. That, nevertheless, is the point of the ongoing limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 watches that each use vintage Zenith-made caliber 5011K “competition” movements from the 1960s – which is to be super bold 60mm-wide watches with interesting movements inside. So how did the Zenith Pilot Type 20 turn into an art piece?

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I suppose it didn’t take long before someone at Zenith decided that skeletonizing the 5011K movement was a good idea. As I’ve said before when discussing Zenith watches with the 5011K movement, Zenith has claimed that it “discovered” a stock of old 1960s-era 5011K movements that it has restored and put into some limited edition watches. What I am not clear on is whether Zenith is producing new versions of the 5011K based on its original architecture or if they quite literally have enough to go around for these and future limited editions, as well as for spare parts and repairs.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On
Zenith has always held a special place for me. From a fairly young age, not long after high school, the brand occupied an elite status in my mind. More specifically, it was and remains in my top two favorite brands of all-time, the other being Grand Seiko. In my mind, they offered two intriguing sides to the same high-frequency coin. Where Grand Seiko possessed a certain austerity to it, a degree of refinement I found in few, if any other places, Zenith watches zurich Replica was quite the opposite. Zenith might be a Swiss brand, but it always seems to have an American-grade boldness to it, a panache matched by none, at least none with Zenith’s horological pedigree. And thus, my two favorite watch brands were chosen: a restrained and sophisticated dress watch and a wild, avant-garde sports watch. Why can’t one watch just be both?Zenith, to their credit, almost had an answer to my question already: the criminally overlooked A273, a classic chronograph that had a measure of civility to it. Yet the A273 itself had committed an offense: it was offered during the same basic time frame as the legendary tri-color El Primero. Because of this coexistence, it was doomed to be overshadowed by its more prolific brother, which continues to be available today. Unlike the El Primero, the A273 was powered by a beautiful, yet far less revolutionary, hand wound movement. There it remained, largely unnoticed even among Zenith collectors, awaiting the time it too would receive the El Primero.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Even though the 5011K is an old movement (at least in style), Zenith decided to opt for a relatively modern skeletonization style for the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette watches. The bridges are uniquely skeletonized, helping to form some original shapes. The surfaces of said bridges actually have an almost “frosted” finish, while the edges are beveled. According to Zenith, it takes 200 hours of engraving and finishing to get each of these skeletonized 5011K watch movements properly done.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In such a large scale, the skeleton dial and movement look very cool. The 5011K movement itself is 50mm wide, so you can imagine just how interesting it might look all skeletonized within the 60mm wide case. Recall that the Zenith watches type 20 Replica Pilot Type 20 Squelette case uses a sapphire crystal middle section with the rest being in 18k white gold. Thus, views into the movement ought to be rather grand – beyond the already generously sized sapphire front and back, which beautifully reveal pretty much the entire movement.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith of course wanted to continue the skeleton theme to the dial, where both the hands are skeletonized and the cut-out hour markers appear to float above the dial. This is visually interesting, but I always like my watch dials to look like watch dials, and in my opinion, at least the hands didn’t need to look like blued wire frames as much. The style of the skeleton dial is aesthetically nice, but it does seriously injure legibility – which is, in a sense, quite an irony for a watch with a movement whose claim to fame was winning a chronometry competition for accuracy (even if it was back in 1967).

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I do quite like how Zenith once again opts to engrave parts of the 18k white gold case for this limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette. You can see the decorative engravings on both the lugs and the bezel. The hand-engraved bezel has been further decorated with blue enamel – painted in after the engraving process and then baked for permanency. It makes for a cool look that is both unexpected but that also helps make this entire horological package complete.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Allow me to once again give you the basics of the Zenith caliber 5011K from a technical specification perspective. The movement operates at 2.5Hz (18,000 bph) and has a power reserve of 48 hours. The dial indicates the time as well as the seconds on a subsidiary dial at 9, and the power reserve at 3. With a timepiece like this, you might have the coolest pocket watch on the block – and you can even choose to wear it on your wrist. Like the similar Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage A Louis Bleriot (hands-on here) which is also new for 2015, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Squelette will be part of a limited edition of just five pieces with a price of 200,000 Swiss Francs. zenith-watches.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I get the appeal of aged watches, as do many people interested in vintage or antique items. There is something empowering about owning or wearing something that existed for as long or longer than yourself. In a sense, you are borrowing some of its ability to remain intact and potentially useful. So in that regard I think I understand the “cool factor” behind many of the vintage timepieces (especially sport watches) that draw people. Having said that, I am not sure how I feel about “artificially aged” watches. What do you think?

Case in point is this fashionably aged version of the Zenith watches tokyo Replica Pilot watch known as the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903, that we first debuted here. When Zenith debuted the watch in late 2013, it was around the anniversary of the first flight by the Wright Brothers 110 years earlier in 1903. There is a cool engraving on the back of the Type 20 GMT 1903 watch case which is a replica of a famous photograph of I believe Orville Wright on the ground with Wilbur flying the Wright Flyer. Having said that, Zenith didn’t work with the Wright family itself, so aside from the “1903” name of the watch and the engraving on the back, it isn’t an official “Wright watch.”

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On
For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

As many of you know, there have been a few Wright Brothers-themed watches over the last year. In addition to the Zenith watch kaskus Replica Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 there is also the Shinola The Wright Brothers Limited Edition Watch as well as the Bremont Wright Flyer watch that was recently announced. I wonder if there will be more watches to help celebrate the beginning of manned flight?

So while the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 watch is sort of themed for the Wright Brothers, that isn’t technically what the watch is all about. Zenith mostly wanted to explore the production of an actually vintage looking version of its vintage-themed Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 watch. Specifically, the 1903 is based on the Zenith PIlot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT watch (hands-on here). So how does the standard GMT differ from this ref. 96.2431.693/ 21.C740 1903 limited edition model?

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

All of the Zenith watches switzerland Replica Pilot Type 20 GMT watches come in 48mm wide cases, and two of them currently come in titanium cases, while the non-limited edition model comes in a polished steel case. First, there was the Black Baron model in DLC coated titanium, and this 1903 version also has a black DLC coated titanium case. Unlike the Black Baron model (that was limited to 500 pieces), the 1903 model has hour markers and hands with luminant that has been artificially aged. The 1903 also comes on a custom bund-style leather strap.

Of course, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 GMT 1903 also has a unique style of caseback engraving and is limited to almost four times as many pieces. Further, it also carries a price premium of $300 retail. On the wrist, the 48mm wide case is of course even larger with the bund-style strap that has a wide piece of leather that goes completely under the case. I do however believe that this extra piece of leather can be removed and the watch can look “normal” on just two strap pieces and not the underside.

Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 GMT 1903 Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

To mark the brand’s 150th anniversary, Zenith has introduced another version of its ultra-complicated Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane watch (hands-on here). That watch is unique because of its gimbal-style gyroscopic escapement, which Zenith calls a “Gravity Control system”; it also has a fusée-and-chain constant force mechanism, which is rarely seen in wristwatches.

In 2013, Zenith defy quartz watches Replica updated the collection with the Hurricane Grand Voyage, a limited special edition piece that featured lavish decoration in the form of hand-engraving and enamel painting that depicts Christopher Columbus’ founding of the New World.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

For 2015, and to mark the 150th anniversary of Zenith, the manufacture has just announced the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II. It’s very similar to the Grand Voyage from 2013, but it is still worth going over what makes this watch so special. Since there is so much going on with this watch, let’s begin with the case. Case size is 45mm and is 18k rose gold. It is 14.8mm thick, but this actually varies up to 21.8mm thanks to the sapphire dome which houses the Gravity Control system. Despite the large sapphire dome, and contrary to expectations, the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II wears quite well once you get used to it. The only thing we would note is that it can be easy to bump the sapphire dome into things if you are not careful.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Like its predecessor, the dial exposes much of the watch’s underlying movement and mechanisms. There are three subdials made out of gold and filled with enamel and decorated with guilloche. Hands are blued steel. The subdial at 12 o’clock tells the time, while the subdials at nine and three o’clock offer the running seconds and power reserve, respectively. Legibility is not an issue, though wearers would likely get distracted by other aspects of watch that are exposed on the dial side – that we would get into later.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The first Zenith watches elite 6150 Replica Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage was a showcase of Zenith’s watchmaking prowess coupled with its flair for the arts and craft, and the new Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II is no different. Flip the watch around and owners will be greeted with a large sapphire display caseback and a breathtaking artwork that celebrates Christopher Columbus.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The painting is hand-engraved and hand-painted, and depicts Columbus landing in the New World, with Columbus himself on the right-hand side holding the Spanish flag and natives on the left. In the background is a large and colorful parrot that is engraved and painted in excruciating detail, and further back, one can spy the three ships in which Columbus and his crew arrived – the Santa Maria, Niña, and Pinta. The entire painting is really fascinating to look at, and we could just stare at it for hours on end to take in all the details.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Fortunately, the artwork is more than matched by the mechanical prowess of the watch. Powering the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II is Zenith’s hand-wound El Primero 8805 movement, which beats at 5Hz, offers 50 hours of power reserve, and is made up of no fewer than 939 parts – a stratospheric amount in itself, and even more unusual when we consider that the watch offers a relatively small number of complications. The three complications it features are the power reserve indication, the fusée-and-chain constant force mechanism, which can be clearly see on the dial side at 12 o’clock just behind the time subdial (and which you could find in Zenith’s other recently announced creation, the Georges-Favre Jacot Academy, hands-on here). Transmission of power between the mainspring and fusée is handled by an 18cm long chain that is made up of 585 parts, and the fusée regulates the force that is passed on to the going train by adjusting for variations in tension. Winding the watch offers a visual treat of the chain wrapping itself back onto the fusée.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The third, and arguably most notable complication is the Gravity Control system, which is made up of 173 parts and borrows heavily from the principle of gimbal suspension systems used in marine chronometers of days long past. The idea behind it is that this self-regulating device would keep the escapement leveled at all times, regardless of the ships’ rolling and pitching, thus negating the need for the timekeeping device to be regulated in multiple positions.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The counterweight of the Gravity Control System features a hand-painted half-sphere of the Southern hemisphere. In some ways, this is the antithesis of the tourbillon and carrousel, and is arguably the more fun and interactive mechanism/complication. Moving the watch around lets wearers observe the mechanism at work and it is quite wondrous to see that no matter how you position the watch, the escapement stays absolutely level. It does have a wobbly action to it, as the gimbal tries to stay at level, but to think that the drive from the massive mainspring nevertheless finds its way into this tirelessly moving construction is in itself awe-inspiring.

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II Watch Hands-On Hands-On

All in all, the Zenith watches vs omega Replica Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II combines haute horlogerie with some of the most magnificent artwork we have seen on a watch. And despite its lofty specifications and presentation, it also comes off as a very fun watch to wear because of the Gravity Control system. The Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II comes in an ornately designed presentation box made out of fine mahogany and features ox-bone inlays. It is priced at $353,000 and is limited to just 10 pieces. zenith-watches.com

Aeronith is very light (2.7 times lighter than titanium, and 1.7 times lighter than standard aluminum) and also durable. The formation process (which is patented by Hublot) boils aluminum in some manner as to create air bubbles. When it dries, Aeronith takes on a foam-like texturing, and the pores are said to be filled in with a special polymer. I don’t know how much Aeronith will be used in future watch production, but I have a feeling Hublot and its sister brands will make use of the exotic material when they see fit – such as for these 10 unique watches. The issue is that each case is simply very time consuming to produce.Each of the 10 debut Zenith Defy Lab watches has a slightly different look mixing silver and gold-toned hour markers and hands with different dial and strap colors. It feels a bit like Zenith’s prototype collection where they tested out what the production models might look like – but honestly each looks cool (I’m partial to the green). Buying one of these 10 pieces (which are all sold out) came with some special perks. Not only do you as a customer get to be at the launch event with us members of the watch media, but they also get to take a watch home with them. The buyers of each of these piece unique watches also get a Zenith manufacture visit, an “exceptional gift box,” (which I will admit is pretty nice) as well as rare bottles of Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes white wine.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

It seems that men named Favre are blessed with uncommon ambition and zeal. Although Green Bay’s iconic quarterback is better known, Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith, can boast the fuller trophy cabinet. Since its foundation in 1865, Zenith has won 2,333 chronometry prizes (which kind of puts that one Super Bowl in the shade). Aged just 22 when Zenith opened its doors, Favre-Jacot was known for his enterprising spirit and daring. This year, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot will be released to celebrate 150 years since the Le Locle local announced himself to the world and cemented his place in horological history.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith has produced something befitting its founder’s genius, while staying true to the modern stylistic characteristics of the brand. The case silhouette of the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch is identifiably from the Zenith Academy, and the ‘guiding star’ logo is featured on the dial and prominently on the crown. You could, however, be forgiven for skipping over the necessary nods to the brand’s identity in favor of ogling the complication that sets this wristwatch apart from the crowd. A kidney-shaped cutaway, spanning from 9 to 3 o’clock, reveals a finely wrought fusée and chain system.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

A fusée is a cone-shaped pulley around which a chain attached to the barrel (containing the mainspring) is coiled. It is a device that we have seen used in some other previously debuted offerings, such as the Romain Gauthier Logical One, the Breguet Tradition Ref. 7047, or, sticking with Zenith, the Zenith Academy Christophe Colomb Tourbillon.  We have discussed this device in all those previous articles in great detail, but to keep it short, we will say the primary function of this centuries old invention is to counter the effects of the ailing torque of the mainspring as it winds down, hence improving isochronism over the course of the watch’s power reserve – which, in the case of the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, is 50 hours.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

The fusée cone sits in between the barrel and the gear train. The chain is attached to the bottom level of the fusée (the widest part), and snakes around the cone wall, guided by a helical groove, extending from the top level of the cone (the thinnest part) to connect with the barrel. As the mainspring unwinds and the barrel turns, the chain unwraps itself from the fusée and is slowly wrapped around the barrel’s outer wall. When the mainspring is fully wound and pulling on the chain with high torque, the fusée is being driven by its narrow end. As the power runs down and the chain wraps further around the barrel and so the weaker pull of the mainspring is compensated by the increased radius of the fusée, keeping the torque constant.

Particularly well executed is the chain itself – a perfect replication of the most traditional fusée design, finished to a mind-boggling standard. My favorite example of this attention to detail is the contrasting finish of the fusée barrel. There is a beautiful interplay between the high polish centre, made interesting by its concentric step pattern, and the grained outer circumference that bears the brand name and the star logo in black.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

While this barrel rotates beneath the wishbone-shaped bridge, which itself sports a straight grain, the effect cast by light hitting these three finishes is a sight to behold. The fusée looks even better in real life from an almost side-on angle, from which its true majesty can be appreciated. Its height and dominance of the dial is really noticeable when you can see the wall of the chain. Thankfully, Zenith had the good sense to make the cutaway large enough to best display their efforts.

In fact, the finish of all functional components is rightfully expected to be beautifully executed on a watch of this caliber – it is only when the more superficial aspects of the Zenith watches singapore Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot are scrutinized that contention arises.

The watch we’re looking at today does have an El Primero, but it’s not the A273. It’s the new Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer limited edition. It’s closely inspired by that A273, of course, but it is not a reissue or a new version. Instead, it takes a leap forward, and not only in terms of the movement as we’ve made subtle updates throughout the watch. Let’s take a close look at the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer and learn more about both its predecessor and the limited edition.The aesthetic heart of any watch is its dial. Almost everything that defines a model as a unique, distinctive piece can be found there. For this watch we wanted to use a dial that was extremely understated and clean, yet never boring. That meant removing almost everything that was superfluous. I find that the need for simplicity is greatest in chronographs, and other watches with intrinsically busy dials. This watch, therefore, would have no date and it would have no “El Primero” or “36,000 VPH” writing on it. It had to be reduced to the essence of what a chronograph must have while nonetheless balancing some of those traits that defined its ancestor.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

When brands attempt to create a timepiece that honors the past – especially a past as personal as this watch attempts to extol – there is a fine balance that must be struck. The battle between old and new. There are those who believe brands must maintain congruity with their current range in order to satisfy their existing customers. Others insist it is more important a watch is congruous with itself. Another camp might argue that a mechanical watch is duty-bound to acknowledge the past and the present in the same breath. Broad as these principles may be, they provide a solid framework by which we can assess how successful or otherwise the Zenith watches 2017 Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot might be.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

There has been an obvious attempt to align the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch with the current range with the case shape. The Academy watches have a pretty unadventurous silhouette, but it is modern enough without being crass in any way at all – although at 45 millimeters wide, it certainly is relatively large. The problem with the styling of this watch for me, lies in the half-hearted dial design and the seemingly non-existent relationship of the hands. The majority of fusée-driven wristwatches I have seen all fall neatly into the second critical category – their design is eminently consistent with itself.

For example, the Logical One is a mad, punky re-imagining of a classic design. It is bold and futuristic. It is a unique and immediately iconic piece. In contrast to this fashion-forward approach, the Breguet Tradition fusée Tourbillon is a pure embodiment of horological classicism. The craziest thing about the Breguet is its high-domed glass, which offers the wearer a more three-dimensional view of the refined gear work, sandwiched between frosted plates and chunky, George Daniels-esque cocks. Both designs work because they seem to thoroughly believe in themselves. For me, the Zenith Georges Favre-Jacot does not announce itself with quite as much gusto.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

The Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot may well satisfy those who want to see the brand’s DNA or a mixture of old and new, but, frustratingly, there are several other watches in Zenith’s own range, that do the job so much better! The most damning thing I can say about the dial is its finish. This watch was surely conceived to appeal to lovers of mechanics, of clever complications, of metal in motion. Why, then, did Zenith decide to cover up so much of what is a beautiful movement, with a dull, silver-toned dial?

Its legibility is unarguably superb, but there are plenty of ways to maintain functionality with style – just look at the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Hurricane for an example of another in-house fusée watch that winds up looking ten times cooler because they went all in on the design instead of folding too soon. Even if the Hurricane is too meretricious for your tastes, it is hard to deny the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot would have benefited from a nice bit of traditional guilloché or rose-engine turning similar to the reserved dial of the Zenith Academy Christophe Columb Equation du Temps. Granted, these familial examples are way more expensive than the anniversary special, but given the price point, Zenith, as I see it, could have stretched to something a little more elaborate or refined.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Sure, the plain dial helps highlight the fusée mechanism and allow it to visually dominate the design of the watch – and for some, that contrast may actually be a welcome feat. A design choice I find more difficult to wrap my head around, however, is in the inconsistency of the styles of the hands. The key issue is that the hands for the hours and minutes and those fitted on the sub-dials seem to originate from two separate watches – it is a bit of a clash of modern and traditional styling. The blue is a good choice, but the large hands appear to be very flat and, more important, sit very awkwardly next to one of the most exquisitely crafted complications in high-end watchmaking.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

Some will appreciate the traditional curves of the small hands while others will prefer the modern, large, and angular design of the main hands – which seem to work better with the baton indices anyway – but the inconsistency is more difficult to swallow. Speaking of inconsistency, seeing the mixture of English and French terms (i.e. “Force Constante“, “High Frequency” and “Bas Haut“) within an inch from one another further emphasizes the two-faced nature of the dial – a weird and illogical choice. But just as I doubted this watch, my opinion became effusively positive when I saw the case back.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

I am huge proponent of a well-executed three-quarter bridge. It takes a great deal of restraint to get this right and Zenith have passed the test with flying colors. With just enough to entertain the eye, without relying on gimmicks or flashy finishing, this full view of the movement reveals its humility and begs to be taken seriously as a horological exercise rather than a bombastic market-driven statement. This watch means business. It is a watch made by watchmakers to honour one of the greats, designed for a discerning and intelligent audience.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Watch With Fusee And Chain Hands-On Hands-On

With only 150 pieces available, the Zenith watches models Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot is sure to sell out quickly. At a hefty 45mm across, with a height of 14.35mm on the wrist, it is large enough to catch a curious eye. The cambered sapphire is treated with anti-glare on both sides, so the fusée can be enjoyed with clarity. Although certain elements of the design may split opinion, there is enough to get excited about in terms of quality and uncommonness to warrant a price of $82,700zenith-watches.com

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

Sponsored Post written by Topper Jeweler’s Rob Caplan

Of all of Zenith’s 2014 introductions, the model that I find most interesting is the Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition. What separates this piece from the rest of Zenith’s new offerings is its connection to four distinct time periods of Zenith’s modern history.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

The skeletal opening on the Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition is very similar to the shape of the models from the early 2000s, though the watch features modern elements like a silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel.

The first era that the watch evokes is that of the mechanical watch industry’s struggles during the mid 70s. While Zenith watches los angeles Replica had come out with the first El Primero in 1969 and designed a series of attractive chronographs in the early 1970s, the company struggled financially. In the mid 70s, Zenith was sold to American owners who decided to discontinue the manufacture of mechanical chronographs altogether. The watch’s namesake, Charles Vermot, was a foreman at Zenith’s factory, and was charged with the task of disassembling Zenith’s El Primero production assembly and selling it off for parts. Instead of carrying out this task, he secretly hid away the presses, technical plans, and equipment used in the creation of El Primero.

Years later, As Mr. Vermot had hoped, the manufacture of automatic chronographs once again became a priority at Zenith. To his delight, the parts and tools were discovered by new ownership and were instrumental in the continuation of Zenith’s mechanical chronographs. The Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot retails for $9,800 and is limited to 1975 units: 1975 is also the year that Mr. Vermot hid the items mentioned above.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

A Chronomaster open XT from the early 2000s, featuring a similar skeletal opening to that of the new El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve.

The dial of this year’s Charles Vermot Limited features a shade of blue exclusively reserved for tribute models dedicated to him. (The other popular Charles Vermot model is in the 36,000 VPH collection which is a similar watch at a lower price point that doesn’t have a skeletal opening.) The shade is a deep metallic blue that, while vibrant, is a little more understated than cobalt.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The minute register of the stopwatch function on the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

The open skeletal portion on the new limited edition is a design influenced by Zenith watches any good Replica watches of the early 2000s. When many collectors think back on Zenith’s timepieces from this period, they think of decadent and dramatic designs. As described by Zenith’s U.S. Brand Director Roland Enderli, “Introduced in 2003 as a part of the main collection, the skeletal opening became both synonymous with the brand and remains one of its most iconic features today.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Power Reserve Indicator and lumed tri-spoke second hand of the new Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

While most of the aesthetic lines from this time period have been culled from the current collection, the skeletal opening used on what was then called the “Chronomaster Open” watch is almost identical to that of the current El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve. While Zenith came out with other open models in the early and mid 2000s that featured various shaped windows, only the Chronomaster Open allowed a complete view of the balance and escapement wheel. Accordingly, it’s no surprise that it’s the shape they retained for the current collection.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

While the opening may be the same, due to advancements in watchmaking technology, the quality of the visible components have been enhanced. Most notably, the current Chronomaster Power Reserve models use a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. This serves two benefits. Roland explains, “It has the major advantage of extending the service interval, but at the same time it brings a nice aesthetic feature to the watch where you can see the violet color of the these parts that are made of silicon instead of traditional metal.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The caseback and a view of the 4021 calibre Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Chronomaster Power Reserve pictured above in silver. Like the Charles Vermot Limited, it now features an updated silicon pallet fork and escapement wheel. $9,800

The Zenith watches online shop Replica El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot also has to be seen as a part of Zenith’s recent overhaul of its entire collection, as its tone has shifted from avant garde to neoclassical. Unlike the Chronomaster Open of the early 2000s, which featured layered cases and complicated guilloche, the tone is classical and understated. Like the 36,000 VPH which was introduced in 2010 and the other dial variations of the Chronomaster Power Reserve models which were introduced in 2011, the case design is based on the original El Primero chronograph from 1969. According to Roland, “When we reintroduced the Chronomaster Power Reserve in 2011, the design objective was to pair the open concept that was so identifiable with Zenith with our current interpretation of our best selling chronograph, the 36,000 VPH.”

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Charles Vermot Limited Edition Watch Hands-On

The Chronomaster Power Reserve, pictured above with a black dial, came out in 2011. It features the same case as the 36,000 VPH which is stylistically influenced from the first El Primero Chronograph from 1969. $9,800

Ultimately, whether or not a watch that evokes four different eras from a company’s history is interesting will depend on the perspective of a future buyer. From the seller’s perspective, or at least my perspective, a watch that is so ingrained in a company’s history is much more enjoyable to think about and describe than an average watch. Price is $9,800. I feel fortunate to have it as the subject of Topper Fine Jewelers first piece for aBlogtoWatch.

Rob Caplan is a fourth generation watch retailer whose family owns Topper Fine Jewelers on the edge of Silicon Valley in Burlingame, California. Topper is an authorized dealer of OMEGA, Glashütte Original, Longines, Zenith, Ball, Bremont and other fine Swiss watch Brands.

Categories
Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch ref. 04.2420.5011/17.C714 is hands-down one of the oddest timepieces I had the pleasure of seeing at Baselworld 2014. aBlogtoWatch first debuted the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch here. I suggest checking out that article for a bit more background on the watch – which is necessary reading to understand exactly what this timepiece is all about. In hand-engraved 18k white gold and sapphire crystal, this massive pilot-style watch was an even more exclusive take on the surprising hit limited edition Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 (aBlogtoWatch hands-on here) watch from 2012.

Part of the title of this article is me saying that the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is “a true collector’s piece.” Why did I say that? If you asked that question, then you were correct to do so. In the scheme of modern luxury watches, there are more “collectible limited editions” that even the industry itself knows what to do with. Limited edition watches – originally meant as something special for collectors – are totally overdone. Most are done just for the sake of doing a limited edition, and Zenith, like other brands, is guilty of that. Once in a while something truly weird and special is created that is actually produced in a limited quantity because of technical or logistical difficulty, and is meant to appeal to a niche audience. In fact, that something like the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is inherently controversial is a major reason why it is ultimately so collectible.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

It is true that Zenith’s new Defy case feels a bit like that of the Hublot Big Bang. It isn’t a bad thing or an accident. Biver has long since found out that most new or younger watch lovers prefer something more bold, more edgy, more masculine, and certainly more visible than most vintage timepieces. For that reason, Zenith watches watch snob Replica is smart to combine exciting technology with a spirited design. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a watch brand debut a new movement or technical concept into a timepiece that looks like a boring dress watch. Are those conservative watch buyers the first ones to jump on something new? Heavens no. Another interesting conversation piece about the Defy Lab is how much of a showcase it is of Biver’s policy of “sharing” among the brands. The Zenith Defy Lab might be assembled at Zenith, but the case is made at (and developed by) Hublot, and the movement is produced (and developed) at TAG Heuer.The first 10 pieces of the Zenith Defy Lab watch will come in a 44mm wide case produced from something else which is exotic known as “Aeronith.” Hublot invented it at part of their materials science division that came up with things such as red ceramic and magic gold. Aeronith (or “the Swiss cheese of aluminum” as you might call it) is actually produced at Hublot’s facility in Nyon. Aeronith is apparently similar to aluminum alloys used in the naval world because it is both strong and corrosion-resistant. Aluminum is rarely used in watches because it is relatively fragile – but in special forms can prove to be a useful material. In person, Aeronith certainly feels impressively light, and in a lot of ways has the visual appearance of concrete (in a cool way).

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

It all starts with a vintage pocket watch movement that Zenith restored and decorated, known as the caliber 5011 (caliber 5011K). This movement is about 50mm wide, so you understand why the case itself is so large. I haven’t discussed numbers yet, but from the look of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu you can tell it is huge – which it no doubt is. Back in our original article on the Zenith Montre d-Aeronef Pilot Type 20 watch, we talked more about what makes this movement special. What you need to know here is that it has 48 hours of power reserve, with the dial, subsidiary seconds dial, and power reserve indicator on the dial. The 5011 movement is also supposed to be pretty accurate – at least by reputation. A hint to that is the “Chronometre” text label on the dial of the watch. Oh, and the movement in this watch is also COSC Chronometer certified.

What Zenith did to the massive 5011 movement in this limited edition watch was to hand-engrave the hell out of it with an attractive and classic filigree design all over the exposed backplate and sides of the movement. Zenith then decided to take it further, and put the movement in a case that was also decorated – but they couldn’t decide on how to decorate it since they also wanted to show off the movement! Thus you have a very unique case architecture that includes 18k white gold lugs with front and rear bezel, with a middle section and caseback produced from transparent sapphire crystal (along with over the dial, of course). The result is something unlike anything I have seen before, with totally hand-engraved elements and a lot of exposure to the movement – which is also decorated.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

If all that wasn’t enough, Zenith decided to hand-engrave the turnip-style aviator crown as well as the ardillon-style buckle on the strap – which is also something you will probably never see again – especially at this size. Whether you like the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch or not, I want you to consider just how uncommon something like this is – especially from a brand like Zenith, known for making the massively popular and mainstream (mainstream luxury watch world, that is) El Primero chronograph movement for sport watches.

Speaking of size, this isn’t a small watch as I mentioned, but it has to be large because of the size of the movement. Zenith measures the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu to be 60mm wide which includes the crown. That is at least 10mm more the the widest watch size most people’s wrists can handle. Also, assume for a moment that the average watch size is about 40-42mm wide, then the Zenith Pilot Type 20 watch is a full 1/3 larger than the average watch. It also happens to be 18.5mm thick. So what is it like on the wrist?

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

You can wear this watch – I mean, I did. I wouldn’t call it anything but sort of silly looking, but some people can pull it off. In this case, less than a dozen people around the world will even have an opportunity to try and pull it off. I also wouldn’t go “sporting” with it, given the delicate nature of the materials such as the sapphire crystal middle section and enamel dial. See, like I said; this is a watch exclusively for collectors. Having said that, the design is very interesting and arguably attractive if you did want to strap it on your wrist. The next time I see someone complain asking, “when are they going to stop to make ‘huge’ watches?” I am simply going to point them to this watch and tell them to get excited for more 60mm-wide timepieces.

As the “Grand Feu” part of the Zenith watches academy Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch name implies, the dial is produced from grand feu enamel. Yet again, we have something which makes the watch unique – how many pilot-style watches have enamel dials? What makes this design so interesting is that elements of it are meant for classic dress watches while Zenith produced it to sort of look like a vintage sport watch – with a lot of decoration. A timepiece such as the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu will look really nice next to your set of engraved blades and guns.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Enamel dials are very beautiful, and the color lasts more-or-less forever. A close look at the white grand feu enamel dial of this watch yields extremely crisp hour numerals, text, and markers. Grand feu implies that after the enamel is applied, the entire dial is baked to make it permanent. If you want an enamel dial watch on the cheap merely to appreciate the technique, look for a vintage pocket watch with an enamel dial.

In some images it is difficult to tell, but the hands on the dial are all blued steel. The hour and minute hands also happen to be skeletonized. Given their large size, the hands are still pretty legible, but this was an interesting design decision for Zenith to make. I think it works out well in the end.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch Hands-On: A True Collector's Piece Hands-On

Even though the Zenith watches felix baumgartner Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu watch is totally absurd when it comes to the size, engraving, sapphire crystal case, and overall theme, I sort of love it. I like how niche and exclusive it is. I like that the watch was produced seemingly with no target audience or demographic in mind. I like that I feel like one crazy person at Zenith wanted this watch to happen, so they made a few of them. The complexity of making the case, doing all the engravings, and the limited nature of the movements all add to why this is something that must be a limited edition. People might see this and think “there is no way this is really from Zenith,” but it is – and that is what I like about it. I wish brands would more often take the opportunity to do something totally against their character as the foundation for a limited edition watch.

Of course, something like the Zenith watches elite ultra thin Replica Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu ref. 04.2420.5011/17.C714 watch is going to be hard to find and expensive. It is limited to just 10 pieces with a price of $165,000. zenith-watches.com