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Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Welcome to the 2015 “Horology Halftime Show,” presented by hindsight. The official arrival of summer means that Baby New Year clichés are as dead as your old Synchronar 2100, and in our era of instant analysis, it’s high-time for a look back at a few of high horology’s best moments so far. Sit back, read on, and celebrate the finest plays of 2015’s first two quarters.

Boldest Move: Patek Philippe Calatrava 5524G.

While the speculative impact of the Apple Watch has inspired the largest volume of controversy during the year to date, the most intense debate raged around Patek Philippe’s first take on the evergreen pseudo-vintage pilot’s watch genre. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5524G left some very self-important folks tying themselves in knots and exchanging CAPS-LOCK carbine rounds in online fora. For that entertainment value alone, the more jocular members of the enthusiast fraternity collectively owe Thierry Stern a free round at his favorite watering hole in Plan-les-Ouates.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Patek Philippe 5524G – Patek Philippe

All kidding aside, this was precisely the kind of calculated love/hate model launch that defines a company as self-assured, purposeful, and adventurous. It takes confidence to court controversy, and the Sterns must have realized that vocal retro-grouches had been grousing reflexively about new Patek model design for at least a decade. It’s the same mindset that convinced ancient Greek poets that heroes of yore were always bigger, tougher, and braver than modern men. And that’s way too serious for an upscale hobby that’s supposed to be fun.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

With its 42mm case, a dial that Charles Lindbergh could love, and the kind of generic utility-watch aesthetic that drove watch “style” in the era of military-contract models, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5524G reads like an air raid on the self-appointed guardians of Patek propriety. Given this contingent’s long-running angst about the miniscule overlap of the 5270’s date subdial and minute track, the mere idea of a hefty Patek Philippe pilot’s watch must have inspired a fair amount of squirming.

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5524G is far from perfect. Depending on who you query, the new Patek looks like a better built Zenith, IWC, or Longines. And Patek Philippe’s half-hearted attempt to link the 5524G to a couple of irrelevant vintage hour-angle prototypes from the company archives was cringe-worthy. Mechanically, the modified caliber 324 is a carryover from previous dual-time models.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

But like its crosstown neighbor, Rolex, Patek Philippe exists as a world unto itself. Deference to tradition, secrecy, and patrician hauteur are integral to the public image that Philippe and Thierry Stern have constructed. Each of these iron curtains required decades to construct, and each can drop with a single over-exuberant misstep. On its own terms, the brand took a serious risk with the Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time 5524G. The company’s embrace of the unknown – and perhaps a fleeting wink of ironic humor – deserves to be celebrated.

Best New Watch: Omega Constellation Globemaster

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Omega Globemaster in platinum

At Baselworld 2015, Omega could have launched a line-for-line re-edition of the old “Pie Pan Connie” in a larger case and received fawning applause from a watch media that has become too comfortable with artless nostalgia.

Pandering to this inclination has become an industry habit, and the launch tempo of reanimated 1950s and 1960s watches has become like the drumbeat of a zombie army. In an industry that has become flush with material quality but starved for design innovation, Omega broke ranks with the Globemaster.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

From the moment it bowed in Baselworld 2015, the Omega Globemaster was hailed as a landmark. The hallmark of great design is its ability to defy anticipation only to feel like an old friend after the curtain is drawn. The Omega Globemaster is the Constellation that enthusiasts have been awaiting since the early 1980s sank its junk-bond powered “griffes” into the brand’s former flagship. While the claw-clad Connie endures in the Omega catalog for the sake of eastern markets that adore it, the true king has returned.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

The Omega Globemaster instantly recalls the first early 1950s “pie pan” Omega Constellations, but it avoids the artistic bankruptcy endemic to the so-called “tribute” watch trend. Granted, the famous faceted dial returns in crisply-defined metallic glory. And the revival of the Omega’s vintage observatory icon as the focal point of the case back winding rotor will melt the hearts of brand cognoscenti.

But the Omega Globemaster succeeds on its own merits as an original design. Omega departs from historical precedent with baton hands, outboard minute hashes, stronger case character lines, and prominent fluted bezels that lift the new Master Chronometer timepiece beyond the shadow of the past. Omega Globemaster models split the difference between the burly build of a sports watch and the delicate proportions of a formal model. Viewed from the side, the Omega Globemaster’s strong lugs and sheer case flanks read as the body of a sports watch; from head-on, the high ratio of dial-to-bezel imparts the delicacy of a dress watch.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Achieving this balance is a challenge on any new watch design – to say nothing of a model intended to reference a specific vintage dress watch; Omega succeeds in brilliant fashion. These elements, and Omega’s scintillating caliber 8900 form the basis for a new classic.

While the Omega Globemaster is handsome enough to triumph on looks alone, its watchmaking chops deserve equal recognition. As the first of Omega’s next-generation Master Co-Axial Chronometers, a family of watches that will be subjected to the new METAS testing regimen for fully-cased watches, the Omega Globemaster is a mechanical milestone for its maker. Silicon hairspring and balance wheel, Omega’s now fully-mastered (and still impressive) Daniels co-axial escapement, and an architecture manufactured at ETA exclusively for Omega offer tremendous value in a price range where competitors often struggle for differentiation.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

These are exciting times to be engaged with the watch community. More high-quality wristwatches are available today than at any point in history including the so-called “golden age” from the end of World War II to the start of the 1970s Quartz Crisis. For a contemporary watch to qualify as the “best” in any sense is a mammoth achievement, and the Omega Globemaster deserves immense credit for standing apart from an honor-roll of 2015’s finest.

Best Upset: “Elite-ists” Prevail at Zenith

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Zenith watches 1900 Replica Elite Cal. 6150 -Zenith

A year ago, Zenith dealt a double body-blow to its faithful. First, there was the launch of the Sellita SW300-powered Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special. Second, the company suggested that its “Elite” family of movements would be discontinued. Taken together, the moves stirred enough controversy to rival LVMH cousin and perennial provocateur Hublot; the outrage rivaled any collector backlash from Zenith’s Thierry Nataf years.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

In 2015, all is forgiven; Zenith marked its 150th anniversary with a redoubled commitment to the Elite and the launch of a revitalized caliber 6150.

While the El Primero chronograph caliber dominates Zenith’s public profile and production resources, the 1994-present Zenith watches international warranty Replica Elite caliber 680 and its derivatives have served as a quiet second pillar in the watchmaker’s catalog. More than a simple movement, the Zenith Elite is a showcase for the Zenith manufacture’s savoir-faire beyond chronograph construction. As a true ultra-thin automatic, the Elite is a direct rival to recognized leaders in the segment such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre 889, the F. Piguet 1150, and the Girard-Perregaux 3000 family.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Rumors of the Zenith Elite’s pending demise sent shockwaves through the Zenith collector community, but the concurrent reality was even more traumatic; Zenith was launching a watch powered by a Sellita SW300 movement. For reference, that’s not even a generic ETA 2892; it’s a legal copy of an ETA 2892. Given Zenith’s status as a manufacture on the order of a Jaeger-LeCoultre, Le Locle’s loyalists interpreted the Sellita development as self-inflicted corporate identity crisis.

When Sellita’s arrival was combined with Zenith’s loss of the Elite, the picture began to look like an existential crisis in progress. As the smallest of LVMH’s luxury watch brands and the only one without notable mainstream media visibility, Zenith appeared uniquely vulnerable. The last decade witnessed the disappearance of Minerva, Gerald Genta/Daniel Roth, and Lemania into the bellies of Montblanc, BVLGARI, and Breguet, respectively. Given rumors of production difficulties at TAG Heuer’s new movement facilities and the arrival of Hublot’s El Primero-powered Spirit of Big Bang, wild speculation and nightmarish scenarios were mooted. Manufacture Hublot, anyone?

The three small lines on the minute sub-dial, pointing to 3, 6 and 9, have undoubtedly piqued your interest. This was a feature found not only on the A273 but on a variety of vintage Zeniths, and while it might look flamboyant, it had an extremely utilitarian nature. I’m told (I wasn’t alive at the time to offer my own testimony) that these marked the intervals at which long-distance phone calls increased in price. Thus, the chronograph complication could help its owner in the rather mundane task of reducing his phone costs.The blued hands and champagne dial complement one another, each making the other more vibrant and visible. Typically, we would use a single color for a complication, like all chronograph hands being blue and all others being silver, but in keeping with the A273, we opted for the three sub-dial hands and the seconds hand to be blued while the hour and minute hands are silver. It’s not the most logical layout, but it has a very pleasing chromatic symmetry to it. Breaking with tradition, however, is the shape of the hands. The original A273 used sportier stick hands for hours and minutes, but we felt that the leaf-shaped hands better suited the dressy character that we were aiming for with the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer. Conversely, we added a short counterbalance to the sub-dial hands because, being blue, they matched the similarly-shaped blued seconds hand, contributing a degree of consistency.
Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

At Baselworld 2015, the cloud lifted. Zenith’s new 100-hour Elite caliber 6150 represents a substantial investment in engineering and production facilities. For an assembly only 3.92mm thick, the new movement represents a formidable bulwark against worst-case scenarios. While the specter of outsourced movements remains (the Type 20 Extra Special endures on the Zenith watch 2 Replica website), a packed 150th anniversary calendar and the arrival of a new Zenith Elite bode well for Zenith’s future as a manufacture – and as “Zenith.”

Best Moment: Watches Win Lemans

Apparently, there was a 24-hour auto race in Lemans, France this June. This news may surprise those who believed they were viewing a round-the-clock retrospective on Baselworld 2015. Saturation-level sponsorship ensured that regardless of who finished first, watchmakers were guaranteed to win.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Proxy Battle: Audi and Oris, Porsche and Chopard – Porsche Motorsports

Cars and luxury watches may be a natural match given their common target customer, but Lemans 2015 took the phenomenon to the extreme. Chopard, Blancpain, TAG-Heuer, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Hublot, Richard Mille, Oris, and innumerable other major and minor horology brands blanketed every square meter of carbon-fiber real estate that wasn’t already plastered with automotive, tire, hydrocarbon, and financial service graphics.

Both of the leading prototype teams boasted a watch sponsor and a co-branded signature watch model from its Swiss patron. Chopard, which partnered with Porsche Motorsports, backed the right horsepower, scored a 1-2 overall finish, and bagged the grand prize: a podium full of wrist shots. Audi and Oris mounted a stiff title defense, but unscheduled pit stops spelled an end to Ingolstadt’s recent dominance of La Sarthe’s premier class. The sixty-six recipients of the members-only 2015 Chopard Mille Miglia Porsche Club of America 60th Anniversary editions must feel pretty special right now.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

For TAG-Heuer and Nissan alike, 2015’s second-half narrative already is set; seek redemption. This may not have been the most successful watch/wheel partnership at Lemans, but it was the best thematic match. The Nissan factory GT-R LM Nismo prototypes were disastrously off the pace and struggled to remain relevant in their first appearance at the race. Nissan’s intensely-hyped factory effort imploded early in the fight for the overall win, much to the chagrin of sponsor TAG Heuer, which had issued a special edition Carrera for the occasion.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

It seemed like a good idea at the time – Nissan

If anything, Nismo’s 2015 24 Hours of Lemans played out like a microcosm of TAG-Heuer’s own fortunes in recent years. Nissan made far too much noise in advance of the race, talked a big game, rolled out the eye candy, and fell on its face. At least TAG’s interim boss, Jean-Claude Biver, can take solace in the fact that his former charge, Hublot, raced to glory in the LMGTE-Am class as a marquee sponsor of Scuderia AF Corse’s red Ferrari 458 Italia GT2.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Yes, you can race with a tourbillon – KC Motorsports Ltd.

But Nissan salvaged its corporate honor with help from one of the most unexpected horology sponsors of the entire Lemans event: Hong Kong’s Memorigin. The watchmaker, which is best-known in the West for producing reasonably priced comic book and movie-themed tourbillon timepieces, dominated the LMP2 prototype class aboard the #47 Oreca/Nissan coupe run by Hong Kong’s own KCMG racing squad.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Memorigin scored a billboard-sized dorsal graphic on KCMG’s LMP2 class winner – KC Motorsports Ltd.

While the pro-am LMP2 class often devolves into a race of attrition, the KCMG #47, plastered with the largest watch brand graphics of any car at the event, roared home to a superb seventh overall – 116 laps ahead of the nearest factory Nissan GT-R and TAG Heuer.

Style Points: Color Makes A Comeback

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2; even high horology had the blues in 2015

Something fundamental changed at SIHH and Baselworld in 2015. Colors – all colors – became the darling of Swiss watchmakers. While various shades of blue seemed to be the only unifying trend among the many and disparate firms embracing this sudden movement, its emergence is both heartening and puzzling.

The luxury watch industry’s sudden enthusiasm for bright colors is a phenomenon that transcends brand and price point. The granular blue dial of Patek Philippe’s incendiary Calatrava 5524G proved that even the patrician Sterns were ready to embrace a more colorful era in watchmaking. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s epic Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2 sports watch re-emerged with a blue-accented makeover. At the opposite end of the price spectrum, JeanRichard issued a Terrascope automatic with a blue “denim” dial option and matching blue ostrich strap.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

JeanRichard Terrascope – JeanRichard

Evidently intent on cornering the market for blue pigment, Omega gave the world a blue-bezel “PloProf,” a blue X-33, a blue Aqua Terra James Bond, a blue Globemaster, and a blue De Ville Central Tourbillon.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Omega went blue in a big way for 2015

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

But blue wasn’t the only color to join the party, and mainstream players found ample company among the independent party-crashers. Ten years ago, Urwerk, eternal champions of the unconventional, didn’t need outlandish color schemes to stand apart. But in an age when weird watches with big price tags have become the new normal, “black lemon” and “black orange” may become standard-issue in the fight for attention.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

So, bright, you can almost taste citrus – Urwerk

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

MB&F HMX; Color Wheels – MB&F

MB&F, now ten years old, seems to agree; the company’s HMX anniversary watch is being offered in an array of colors that would have been outlandish even by Maximilian Büsser’s standards a decade ago. H. Moser & Cie, also known as “Schaffhausen’s other watchmaker,” added a new shade to the color wheel and coined a new phrase for watch writers: funky blue.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

“Funky Blue” joins the lexicon – H. Moser & Cie

This year, nobody was above the fray; industry bellwether Rolex launched a revitalized Oyster Perpetual range that reads as a kaleidoscope compared to the Geneva giant’s usual conservative catalog. The Oyster Perpetual, once among the most traditional and discreet of Rolex lines, now ships with gold, green, blue, and magenta dials. Even the more subdued anthracite metallic dial features electric blue (that color, again!) highlights that transform the character of the watch. One year after the Milgauss Z-Blue’s provocative combination of colors prompted questions about whether Rolex had gone too far, Rolex has declared that it didn’t go far enough.

Tim's Horology At Halftime: The Best Of 2015 To Date Feature Articles

Is this the first stirring of a new dawn at Rolex?

And therein lies the puzzling aspect of the color trend; it’s a question of ultimate significance. Paint superpower PPG Industries has kept a record that shows grayscale “colors” dominating global auto sales over a period dating back to the 1990s. As this year’s Lemans race demonstrated, watchmakers and automakers tend to target the same mature and affluent demographic. Is 2015 the year watchmakers become a leading indicator of a generational change in the durable and luxury goods markets? Exact strategy notwithstanding, if traditional watchmakers can find a way to entice a new generation of enthusiasts with a product solution that doesn’t involve integrated circuits and two-year service lives, that achievement may prove to be the industry’s greatest success for the remainder of 2015 – and years to come.

Tim Mosso is the Horology Officer and Product Specialist at watchuwant.com of Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

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Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

There is always – and I mean always – room in our lives for additional cool and funky sport watches. What do you think about a 45mm-wide vintage-looking pilot watch from a major brand with an in-house made movement and a cool bronze case? That’s the new-for-2015 Zenith watch 2542 Replica Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze watch.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

We liked this Zenith mens watch 96.0529 Replica Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze so much, we included it back in our Top 10 Watches of Baselworld 2015 article here. Why? Well, even though there isn’t too much “new” about this timepiece, it is a very successful combination of elements that a lot of watch lovers have been into lately. You also have a situation here where a major Swiss watchmaker once again shows that it has been paying close attention to what enthusiast watch collectors as well as smaller brands have been doing.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Bronze is a weird metal that was never traditionally part of the luxury watch experience, given the metal’s tendency to quickly oxidize. Now, the precise reason why bronze was historically not a good watch case material is why it is popular today. The enthusiasm for vintage looking timepieces has made the idea of a new watch – with a modern movement and construction – that looks like an antique appealing. Yes, it is fashion, but that is why we don’t wear boring watches.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Bronze started to enter the luxury watch space when the Gerald Genta brand (which has since been incorporated into Bulgari) released the extremely cool and avant-garde Gefica collection (review here), which used bronze cases with titanium elements. The bronze was meant to quickly “patina,” meaning that each case would rapidly show case discoloration – in a unique way. This tendency for the metal to change colors made it interesting. More so, bronze is not a precious metal, so it had a different look from steel, but was not inherently more expensive.

Since the Gefica, a number of small watch makers presented watches in bronze – most notably, Anonimo. Today, even larger brands like Zenith watches uk Replica and Panerai are offering select timepieces in bronze. To my knowledge, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze is the first one from Zenith.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

You need to understand the difference between the earlier Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, and the 2015 Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze. These are rather different creations when you look at the details, and should not be confused with one another. In around 2014, Zenith made the potentially nearsighted decision to produce an “entry-level” priced version of their popular Pilot Type 20 collection using a Swiss Sellita movement. The brand known for in-house made movements and the famed El Primero suddenly decides to make a watch with a sourced movement? Well, don’t worry, that decision didn’t last long, and Zenith’s management quickly realized that all Zenith watches needed to have in-house made movements.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

So, in addition to the new bronze case (versus steel from the previous model), the 2015 Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special is finally “special,” meaning that it has a manufacture movement inside. That movement isn’t an El Primero, but the still decent Zenith caliber 679 “Elite” automatic movement that operates at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 50 hours. I also like the very clean execution of the dial which does not include a date indicator window. This means that the pure symmetry of the dial is not disrupted by a date window. Sure, having the date is a welcome feature, but a lot of watch lovers these days are choosing to give up date windows (when they come across the right watch) and the corresponding functionality in exchange for aesthetic considerations.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

At 45mm wide, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 is not a small watch, but it isn’t insane either. Anyone who has a penchant for larger timepieces will appreciate the style. More so, the slightly vintage style of the dial as well as (of course) the case make the watch look better in a large diameter. The 45mm-wide case is also 14.25mm thick with smaller lugs, so that it doesn’t wear too large on the wrist.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

What we feel that Zenith did really well in a watch like this is to assemble a series of design elements together in a single piece that is very harmonious and desirable. Of course, the sporty elements and super-lumed dial with all that SuperLumiNova and ultra legibility make for a wonderful sport watch and daily wear. What I like so much about the larger Zenith Pilot watch collection is that it has some serious personality. These are big, bold timepieces for confident people who aren’t about showing off, but are rather about wearing an extension of their personality on their wrist.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Zenith watches nyc Replica Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze case is water resistant to 100 meters, and while mostly in bronze, the caseback is in engraved titanium with that cool Zenith plane motif. Titanium is a better caseback material because bronze doesn’t always react to people’s skin so well (unless you like your skin to turn a bit green).

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze Watch Hands-On Hands-On

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith watches pre owned Replica CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

Attached to the watch is an “oily nubuck” leather strap with a black rubber lining and a titanium buckle. Overall, this is a cool and simple timepiece which is both easy to understand but also depicts some of the more interesting trends we see in how people are enjoying their higher-end watches. Price for the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Bronze reference 29.2430.679/21.C753 watch is 6,900 Swiss Francs. At 1,000 Swiss Francs less, it would be a much more attractive deal, but you could say that about most Swiss watches. zenith-watches.com

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Best Zenith Other Brands

Cheapest All You Need to Know About the Tudor MT5813 Chronograph Movement Japanese Movement Replica


Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

When it comes to categorizing watches, we tend to organize them by the strict purposes their styles were originally meant for. That translates into a world of dive watches, pilot watches, racing watches, formal watches, business watches, etc… A category that only loosely exists in the traditional sense but that is nevertheless extremely important is “travel watches.” What is a travel watch? Well, traditionally, a pocket watch was the original travel watch because it was designed to be portable. More recently, the travel watch has been a more ambiguous category of watches that serve travelers with a range of needs both functional and fashionable.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

The question we seek to answer in this article is “what are the elements of a good watch to wear while traveling?” Of course, the answer depends on where you are going, but you’ll see a lot of commonalities between these watches despite there being many different types of timepieces that would nevertheless be good to travel with.

You’ll also find a lot of watches that advertise themselves as being “ideal for traveling” that we don’t include here. Why not include every potential type of travel watch in this list? When it comes down to it, we are rather demanding of what our travel watches should do and how various things like the fragility (or complexity) of a movement balances out a watch’s overall design and utility. That means some timepieces meant for travel might simply be too delicate and/or difficult to use to be truly relied on.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

I’d also like to debunk the myth that all traveler’s watches need to have complications in addition to the time. With today’s technology at our fingertips, there is little reason to absolutely rely on your wrist watch to know the time in many different time zones. If you are a modern traveler, you are going to have a phone and other electronic devices which are going to be a lot better at tracking various time zones with ease. That doesn’t mean all “traveler-centric” watch complications aren’t useful, but rather that the totality of a watch’s design and functional value should be taken into consideration, and it also means that a lot of watches which only tell the time can make for excellent travel watches if they do other things well.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Are you the type of person who travels with just one watch, or do you bring a small collection with you? This latter approach can help enhance your wrist wearing options but can also be a safety liability when it comes to loss or theft. Some people love to travel with a few watches (sometimes more), but many others like to rely on just one timepiece to get them through a trip.

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.
Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

The most important thing we can say about the top travel watch choices is that they need to be versatile in both functionality and style. Think about it, the watch you are traveling with potentially needs to work well on your wrist while on a plane, while wearing a suit at a meeting, casually out to dinner, and potentially for sports activities or being outdoors. It isn’t impossible, but it sure is tough to find a watch that satisfies each of these needs. Few can, but it is important to consider everything you might require of a timepiece while you are away from home base.

In reality, there is no absolute top 10 list of travel watches, but rather, we are including a cross-section of timepieces that will serve a lot of important needs while you are traveling and that you’ll find handy in a range of situations. Watches similar in style or design to these “archetype choices” will also likely serve you well.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Before we get to the watches, I want to talk a bit about useful features and complications that should appeal to travelers. No single watch has everything, but many watches combine a lot of important elements that you (within the subjective reality of your needs) should be looking for.

The most important thing to ask yourself is what the most demanding situation will be that you’d like to wear your watch during. Maybe the flight and airport journey is the most demanding activity your travel watch will be subjected to, or perhaps, you plan on going hiking, diving, or just want to exercise with your watch. Most people who do more simple things like working out at a gym or running can get away with simply taking their watch off, but if you are planning a trip out into the wilderness, you might decide that wearing your timepiece is enjoyable, useful, and perhaps, safe.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Thus, you’ll need at least one watch suitable for wear during these activities. Of course, not all trips involve leisure time like this, but then again, people travel for different reasons. If you are a serious outdoors person, then you probably aren’t going to assume that your sporty beater watch will be the same timepiece to rely on when in a meeting with business colleagues. So the hikers, divers, and all-around adventurers are better off with a dedicated activity watch, and one to wear when you get “cleaned up.”

Also, a few thoughts on safety. Depending on where you travel, having an expensive watch might be a liability (or an asset). Perhaps, the number one biggest concern most travelers with nice watches have is “I don’t want to be a target for crime.” That’s true; in certain parts of the world you don’t really want to be traveling with an item that makes you any more susceptible to being discreetly robbed or even violently mugged. If you are traveling to a more dangerous part of the world, please consider how showy your timepiece is and how your overall look may communicate your likelihood to be wearing expensive things.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

At the same time, having an expensive watch in certain parts of the world can be an asset in emergency situations. A great brand to mention now is Rolex. People have said in the past that if you have a half-way decent Rolex watch pretty much anywhere in the world, you should be able to relatively readily “exchange it” for a trip home in the event you are in an emergency situation. This, of course, isn’t a universal rule, and doesn’t work with all watches in all places. Nevertheless, if you have a quality watch from a popular brand such as Rolex (and especially Rolex), there is a high likelihood that people even in remote places will recognize its value and either give you cash or services in exchange for it if you find yourself in a pickle. Whether those same people just steal the watch from you without offering fair value is really going to depend on how well the individual person gauges the situation.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

In order to sum up a list of the top 10 watches for traveling, I’ve decided to list and explain a watch style archetype and then mention a specific brand and model that fits in really well to that archetype. These examples are by no means the only good travel watches out there, but it was important for me to at least generally explain the types of watches that we feel make for the best travel timepieces.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

The Classic Sporty GMT: Rolex GMT-Master II

While many timepieces (including other watches in this list) fall into this category, the Rolex GMT-Master II (review here) is probably the gold standard in luxury GMT sport watches. Good looking, durable, and with a great history, few watches really capture the sheer versatility and functionality of this classic sports watch, as well as the depth of its appeal.

On a basic level, the GMT second time zone hand offers the time elsewhere in a 24-hour format. That means you have the local time and a “reference time” to know (for example) what time it is back home. GMT sport watches like the Rolex GMT-Master II are also fashionably versatile. Sure, it looks like a slightly different version of the Submariner dive watch, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. From a fashion perspective, there is little you can’t wear this watch with, and it should stand up to activity and abuse, as well as cleaning up nicely for dressier occasions. While it can’t do everything, you will be surprised at how much use you can get out of just one watch while traveling with a Rolex GMT-Master II or something similar to it.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Modern Analog Satellite Watch: Seiko Astron Chronograph

How modern satellite-controlled electronic watches like the Seiko Astron will fare during the age of the smartwatch is unclear – but right now, there is nothing in the smartwatch camp that even comes close to the universal appeal (and application) for the Seiko Astron Chronograph (hands-on here). Perhaps the most important things to point out are, first, that the battery inside the Astron is charged by light, so you don’t really need to worry about a battery dying; and second, that the watch itself connects to satellites to update the current time and time zone on your watch automatically. Thus, you don’t need to worry about a dead battery in most instances, and you also don’t need to rely on a host device.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Seiko’s Astron Chronograph adds a chronograph complication which makes it very handy to time travel legs such as flights to predict travel times. Chronographs are actually really useful when traveling, so it isn’t a bad idea to look for travel watches that do have chronograph complications. Designed to have some dressy appeal, the Astron Chronograph doesn’t look like your typical nerdy gadget watch – which makes it even more attractive as a sole travel watch. Better yet, its real value of knowing the time anywhere via direct connection to GPS signals means it will shine the most when you are the furthest from civilization.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Business World Time Chronograph: Girard-Perregaux ww.tc Chronograph

While “world time” watches are designed for traveling, there aren’t too many of those types of watches on this list. That is because I am going to lump them all in this category since, in essence, they operate the same way using a disc such as this or various windows that allow you to see the time in multiple time zones. Let me first say that this complication is in fact very useful and available on a host of watches. I actually like this complication mixed with a chronograph so that you can get the benefit from a world timer with a touch of extra added utility.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

One of the more popular chronograph world time watches is the Girard-Perregaux ww.tc (hands-on here) which has been offered in a range of styles over the last several years. Using an in-house made movement focusing on dress elegance and contemporary style, these make great solo travel watches for those who nevertheless like to keep track of the time in various cities. In other words, as a travel watch, a timepiece such as a world time chronograph has the most relevant complications specifically designed for travel and will prove useful on the wrists of many travelers.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

All-Purpose Professional’s Watch: Rolex Day-Date 40

If all you really want is a prestigious business/professional watch that doesn’t need specific travel functions, then a great place to begin is the Rolex Day-Date 40 (hands-on here). On the negative side, this isn’t the most original choice in the world, and it will make you a target for crime in the wrong parts of the world. On the plus side, a watch like the Rolex “President” is universally known as a sign of success and in emergency situations can be traded for a lot of value.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

While there is certainly a more “mature” slant to the design and fashionable appeal of the Rolex Day-Date 40, it has been known to work with anything from a suit to most any business to classy casual attire. Use your phone and gadgets for all the more complicated information, and a Rolex Day-Date 40 or other all-purpose professionals’ watch as a solid choice for a sole travel watch if most of your travels takes you on paved roads and into climate controlled rooms.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Luxury Dive Watch On Rubber Strap: Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT

You might dismiss a luxury dive watch on a rubber or NATO-style strap as too casual or not totally appropriate for all travel situations. You’d be right. If you are traveling and expect to be in a suit most of the time, your sports watch on a colorful strap might not be a good idea. If, however, you are going on vacation or to a more tropical environment, this can be an excellent choice. Rubber straps really shine in tropical environments or any place where it is hot and you are likely to sweat. Maybe you’ll also end up taking this watch into the water or off the beaten path – which is something it is certainly designed for.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

There is, honestly, a huge assortment of dive watches on rubber straps with good choices starting from just a few hundred dollars. Since we are talking about “ideal” choices, we might as also go with a luxury watch. The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is at heart a solid dive watch with a sleek design and a range of versions. The Omega Planet Ocean GMT (review here) happens to also have a second time zone complication, making it an even better travel watch – but the GMT element is optional. The point here is to have a good looking sport watch designed to be comfortable in warmer environments that nevertheless communicates that the wearer has some taste and is perhaps a “watch guy.”

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

World Time Casual Business Watch With Prestigious Name Value: Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time

One particular subset of world time watches are those with “East” and “West” pushers that allow the time to be advanced or subtracted in one hour increments to make switching the time between various time zones simple and straight forward. One such family of watches that feature this complication are the various “Travel Time” watches by Patek Philippe. These all include the same movement even though they exist in various product families such as the Nautilus, Aquanaut, and also this Patek Philippe 5524 Calatrava Pilot model (hands-on here).

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

In a 42mm-wide 18k white gold case, this is a deceptively ritzy pilot watch with a simple, demure attitude, but with the Patek Philippe name prestige many international travelers are looking for. Unlike a yellow or rose gold watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Time will call surprisingly little attention to itself, but in the right circles, people will know exactly what you are wearing. This is a good opportunity to have a convenient travel watch with a useful dual time zone complication, as well as being a serious luxury watch that really won’t command unwanted attention to the wearer. It can also work with business attire as well as it does with shorts.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Function-Filled Pilot Watch: Zenith El Primero Doublematic

Pilot watches make excellent travel watches because, by nature, they are designed for traveling. Perhaps more specifically, for flying, but pilots clearly travel and have traditionally needed comfortable, legible watches that allow them to keep informed in various time zones. Pilot watches can be simple or very complicated – and the latter are actually quite rare. If you like the idea of having various features in a pilot watch that can be useful while on the road (or in the air), then a recent timepiece which exemplifies the appeal of a complicated pilot watch is the Zenith watches price malaysia Replica El Primero Doublematic (hands-on here).

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Let’s be clear that timepieces such as this are rare. Zenith’s legendary “high beat” El Primero automatic movement serves as the base for a movement with a ton of complications – all of which are designed for travel. The Zenith El Primero Doublematic has the time, world time disc for knowing the hour in any of the 24 time zones at a glance, a big date indicator, a 30 minute chronograph, and an alarm! All in a handsome 45mm-wide case with a dial that is both classy and respectably legible.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Deceptively Inexpensive Dress Watch: Orient Bambino

It would be remiss of us to simply suggest luxury timepieces for travel, especially for use with formal attire. It is true that in many places in the world having a nice timepiece is a prerequisite to having a serious business conversation. If you are in one of those situations, you might not want to necessarily go down this route. If, however, you are concerned about losing or damaging your watch during travel or simply don’t want to worry about having something too expensive, then pick up something decent and discount made by the Japanese.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

As there is a whole world of nicely-priced Seiko and Citizen sport watches for travel, I figured that I would take the other side of the coin and remind you about well-priced dress watches. Depending on your travel plans, you don’t always want to wear your Seiko Orange Monster. When in a formal meeting or dinner, you might want to choose something a bit dressier, but equally good at delivering value. In that case, allow me to suggest the also Japanese Orient Bambino – or other Orient dress watches. aBlogtoWatch mentioned the great value pricing of the Orient Bambino collection in the past, and we extend that recommendation as being also good for a travel watch when the owner wants to take something they don’t need to worry that much about. Have no worries either, these watches tend to be nice enough that unless you have a lot of specific knowledge of timepieces, no one will know you spent just $100 – $200 on an automatic dress watch like the Orient Bambino.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

All-Purpose Digital Sports Watch: Casio G-Shock

Above, we mentioned the Seiko Astron Chronograph as a solid choice for a GPS-controlled quartz watch when looking to travel with something less traditional on your wrist. Nevertheless, as quartz watches go, the Astron collection is still on the pricier side. Something a lot more durable, and easy to choose for most budgets is something in the Casio G-Shock family. For the most part, these are strictly watches for casual and leisure activities, and I don’t recommend wearing a G-Shock if doing anything that requires dinner and long sleeves. This is going to be the most casual choice, but you will be rewarded with a virtually indestructible watch that will happily put up with a lot of abuse and will not heavily penalize your bank account if it gets lost or damaged.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

Casio G-Shocks find themselves on the wrists of countless soldiers and outdoor adventurers around the world for good reason. They put up with almost anything and have an impressive set of functions such as a world timer, alarms, chronograph, and most that travelers use all the time. Also, because they aren’t particularly expensive, G-Shock watches rarely attract negative attention and are nevertheless fun.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

“Cleans Up Well” Chronograph GMT Sport Watch: Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT

Without trying to be redundant, here is yet another flavor of high-function sport watch that lends itself well to picky travelers. The key here is a watch with a versatile personality that combines a chronograph complication along with a GMT hand for a second timezone. This is especially good for mechanical watch lovers who want a timepiece for travel with features that they will use on a regular basis.

Top 10 Watches For Traveling ABTW Editors' Lists

I’ve personally traveled with a lot of chronograph GMT watches as my sole timepiece and rarely felt the need for more as long as that watch worked well on the plane, in the meetings, walking on foot around town, and at dinner. A timepiece that comes to mind which exemplifies this category well is the Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT (review here). At 44mm wide (with a series of dials and straps available), the Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT even has companion watches without the GMT hand as well as additional case sizes. That doesn’t even begin to mention the universe of other good chronograph GMT watches out there that could equally satisfy as a traveler’s timepiece.

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Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

There is a special place in my heart for complicated sport watches, whether they bow to the worlds of diving, racing, or flying. In truth, the most complicated feature traditional sport watches needed was a chronograph. That was the past, however, and we live in modern times. Why not fully realize the potential of luxury sport watches by packing them full of minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and tourbillons? OK, maybe that is a bit on the extreme side, but you really can’t blame Zenith for wanting to include their El Primero annual calendar chronograph caliber 4054 movement into one of their large vintage-styled pilot watches. The result is just… well, cool, right? So after some time on my wrist, allow me to share with you our review of the (deep breath) Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar reference 87.2430.4054/21.C721 watch.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

I am pretty sure that since this Zenith watches ireland Replica Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar watch was originally released in 2013, Zenith has since shortened the absurdly long name. Later in 2013, we went hands-on with the Pilot Type 20 Annual Calendar. In fact, if you translate all parts of the watch name, the full title is rather redundant.

So what is this watch? Essentially, it is two things. First, you have the vintage styling of the modern Zenith watches hong kong dealer Replica Pilot Type 20 watch collection which exists in a large 48mm-wide case. Second, you have the movement which is an El Primero chronograph produced in-house by Zenith, using a special annual calendar module designed by master watch movement designer Ludwig Oechslin. Together, these two elements make for a very useful, very interesting, and very wearable (for the right wrists) luxury sports watch.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

How will other watch makers respond? Will it become expected for watch makers to make claims about the accuracy of their watches? I am not sure that there will be an industry-wide move to mention actual numbers, but if there is a watch that comes out with a story about accuracy and some special technical elements, you can be damn sure we will point out if they omit actual performance numbers. I think what is more important is that a watch like this, with such a big emphasis on silicon, that isn’t stupid high in price, will force the industry to adopt next-generation watch movements with haste.Only a few companies in Switzerland are able to produce silicon parts. The tools needed for this task are very expensive, which includes the labor needed to operate and program them. Most watch brands that use silicon parts don’t make the components themselves. Is now a time to start given clear levels of increased need? Note again that investments by watch makers into silicon technology in traditional watchmaking has been going on for well over a decade. Though, little of this technology has trickled down into what we might call “affordable” timepieces. Jean-Claude Biver said watch makers will not produce their own silicon parts until they can also make parts for other companies in different industries.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

The Zenith El Primero caliber 4054 movement in this timepiece debuted back in 2011 when the company announced the Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar which was a good looking (and still popular) sport watch. aBlogtoWatch later reviewed the Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar here. The El Primero movement operates at a high 5Hz frequency (36,600 bph), which means it can time events with the chronograph down to 1/10th of a second accuracy (compared to 1/8th of a second with a 4Hz movement). Perhaps more important about 5Hz movements is that they are theoretically more accurate over time. This is why we like movements with higher frequencies.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

The mechanical automatic caliber 4054 has a maximum of 50 hours of power reserve and is produced from 341 parts – which is admittedly complex for something like this. What is interesting about Ludwig Oechslin is that he is generally obsessed with doing things in the most efficient way possible. That isn’t per se minimalism, but it can often appear to be that way. Consider, for example, the MIH watch (aBlogtoWatch review here) that was also designed by Oechslin. In the 4054 he designed the annual calendar system to be as simple as possible. Annual calendars need to be adjusted only during February, and indicate, at minimum, the month and date. In the 4054 Zenith uses three extra discs in the movement to display the day of the week, month, and date. Overall, this layout is both simple, and very legible. Reading information in windows is almost universally more legible than on dials (even if the latter is “sexier”).

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

One of the most impressive things about the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar is that the dial layout for the 4054 movement doesn’t look odd in what is essentially a much larger case than it was designed for. The large hands and hour markers on the dial allow for the interior information not to look petite. Zenith very cleverly designed the dial to include all the information so that nothing overlaps with anything else. Thus, people can enjoy a 60-minute chronograph, an annual calendar, and the time with out having to have elements which really overlap one another.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Designed with the look of some vintage aviator watches in mind, the best part of the almost cartoonishly large Zenith watches for sale australia Replica Pilot watch collection is just how legible they are. Painted in lume and very easy to read, the hands and hour markers are quite simply “bold.” Not only are they physically large in size, but Zenith ensures that they contrast with the face very well. Actually, the hour markers are produced entirely from lume! Other details are extremely important, such as the proper length of the hands as well as their brushed finishing (as opposed to polished) which reduces reflectivity and thus undesirable glare). If there is anything I really liked about the Zenith Pilot Type 20 it was the dial, and this doesn’t end with the Annual Calendar model (currently, there are also GMT and time-only models).

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

On the wrist, the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar is predictably large, but certainly wearable. With that said, you don’t get this watch unless you want a hefty wearing experience. In addition to being 48mm wide, the case is 15.80mm thick (and water resistant to 100 meters). What makes the Pilot case wearable, however, are the shorter lugs and ability for the strap to go straight down. The case is very nicely polished with excellent detailing. I appreciated the lack of sharp edges and extremely comfortable crown.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Operation of the annual calendar is not as straight forward as I’d like, but the minor quirks are an easy to forgive thing when taking into consideration that everything is adjusted via the crown and that the system is rather simple.

This particular version of the Zenith watches australia Replica Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar watch is a mixture of 18k rose gold and titanium. There is also a steel model available. On this model, the hands, bezel, lugs, pushers, crown, and case side plaque are in rose gold. The case middle and back are in titanium. This not only reduces the mass of the watch making it more comfortable, but is lessens the amount of gold in the case so that it isn’t as expensive. Zenith nevertheless cleverly designed the case to put gold where you see it most, so that onlookers seeing you wear a Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar will experience the maximum amount of gold on your wrist.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Style-wise, the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar is a diverse mixture of elements. The watch is a little rock & roll, a little horology nerdy, a little vintage champion, and of course, a bit aviation hero. I hate to keep using the word “bold,” but given the size, wearing this watch does require a bit of strong personality. I personally loved it. Note, however, that if you have smaller wrists, the stock strap on the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar might need an extra hole. The holes are square and not round, so don’t try to do it yourself.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Speaking of the strap, I do like the large titanium buckle with Zenith star logo. I also like that the strap is lined with rubber but has an alligator top – which adds a pleasant high-end touch to an already high-end watch. Assuming you get a snug fit, the watch is actually remarkably comfortable on the wrist.

Currently, there is no standard 12-hour chronograph version of the Zenith watches in singapore Replica Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 collection. So if you want an El Primero chronograph with this cool pilot case, this is the watch for you. That isn’t a bad thing, as this is a unique luxury sports watch with a lot of daily utility and some great style. No one hates this watch even though some dislike its size. That is OK, there are probably more people who prefer the size. Again, why big watches? So that they can be better seen by others. Don’t forget that in addition to all the feel-good intellectual reasons we like to say we wear watches, we like what they look like before all else.

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Montre d'Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar Watch Review Hands-On

While a bit big for daily wear (for me) I really did enjoy what Zenith watches houston Replica was able to offer with the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. Even though it was a simple matter of combining a case with a movement, the result does feel more than the sum of its parts. Hey, the watch might even have been a very successful accident. In any event, I don’t have any major complaints about this watch and feel that if you are drawn to it, I can’t think of any reason to abstain aside from the price which of course is going to be on the higher side. For a much better value, consider the all steel version which is about 45% less. Then again – gold and titanium do have an allure to them. Price for the ref. 87.2430.4054/21.C721 Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar watch is $19,700. zenith-watches.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Zenith
>Model: Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20 Annual Calendar ref. 87.2430.4054/21.C721
>Price: $19,700
>Size: 48mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Guy who can get away with wearing a 48mm-wide gold sports watch and still make it look cool.
>Best characteristic of watch: Excellent detailing and comfort matched with impeccable legibility and style. It is an exotic treat for sure, but a treat nonetheless.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Case size might be too large for some, and the watch is a bit on the pricier side.

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Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

Zenith have announced the release of a new Zenith Pilot Extra Special. This is their latest collaboration with UK retailer The Watch Gallery, hit the shelves just earlier this week, December 1st, 2015. Whenever I see a blue-dialed Zenith, I get a little excited. Blue was the favourite dial colour of the late Charles Vermot, who worked for Zenith during the quartz revolution. As head of tooling, he was ordered to destroy all the equipment for and technical drawings of the world-famous El Primero (and other calibres) to make way for their electronic successors. Unable to wipe such an invention from existence, he secretly devised a plan that would spare the classic calibre from extinction: He concealed the tools and documents needed to produce Zenith’s mechanical catalogue in a remote attic of one of Zenith’s buildings and, provided false receipts for the scrap metal he’d been told to trade it all in for. There Zenith’s finest work remained until the time was right for Swiss watchmaking to rise from the ashes and be reborn.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

Okay, so blue is just blue, but when a colour meant so much to such an integral part of the Zenith machine, I can’t help but feel a little more care and attention goes into its application than it might in the design process of a less storied brand. Weirdly, I don’t normally go crazy for blue dials myself, but I do think it looks excellent on this watch. We’re so used to seeing vintage-inspired pilots’ watches with high-contrast black and white dials, it’s nice to see a splash of personality ripple the mould.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

It is true that Zenith’s new Defy case feels a bit like that of the Hublot Big Bang. It isn’t a bad thing or an accident. Biver has long since found out that most new or younger watch lovers prefer something more bold, more edgy, more masculine, and certainly more visible than most vintage timepieces. For that reason, Zenith keyhole watch Replica is smart to combine exciting technology with a spirited design. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen a watch brand debut a new movement or technical concept into a timepiece that looks like a boring dress watch. Are those conservative watch buyers the first ones to jump on something new? Heavens no. Another interesting conversation piece about the Defy Lab is how much of a showcase it is of Biver’s policy of “sharing” among the brands. The Zenith Defy Lab might be assembled at Zenith, but the case is made at (and developed by) Hublot, and the movement is produced (and developed) at TAG Heuer.The first 10 pieces of the Zenith Defy Lab watch will come in a 44mm wide case produced from something else which is exotic known as “Aeronith.” Hublot invented it at part of their materials science division that came up with things such as red ceramic and magic gold. Aeronith (or “the Swiss cheese of aluminum” as you might call it) is actually produced at Hublot’s facility in Nyon. Aeronith is apparently similar to aluminum alloys used in the naval world because it is both strong and corrosion-resistant. Aluminum is rarely used in watches because it is relatively fragile – but in special forms can prove to be a useful material. In person, Aeronith certainly feels impressively light, and in a lot of ways has the visual appearance of concrete (in a cool way).

The Zenith Pilot Extra Special is the second collaboration the brand have explored with The Watch Gallery (the first was back in 2013). The Watch Gallery likes to get their trademark blue onto these collaborative projects, so this turned out to be a match made in heaven. The vintage Arabic numerals – shaped entirely from Super-LumiNova® – are huge, incredibly legible, and far more satisfying for their boldness than the gracile fonts designers sometimes lean on to evoke the past. It’s pleasing too to see Arabic numerals as opposed to graphical markers. It gives the watch a much more innocent and personable feel that detaches it somewhat from its functional DNA.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

It’s worth pointing out that, unlike a lot of brands who have produced pilots’ watches in the recent past, Zenith watches berlin Replica actually does have some history in the field of aviation. Zenith was producing timepieces for pilots in the early days of heavier-than-air flight, and is (quite remarkably) the only Swiss watch manufacturer officially licensed to print the word “pilot” on their dials – an honour of which they’ve taken full advantage here.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

We need only glance at the crown (be careful – it could take your eye out) to identify this as a pilot’s watch that sees itself as a serious successor to the timepieces worn by those in the aviation industry. The reasoning behind onion crowns of this size is that they were still usable while the pilot was wearing their thick gloves. That’s a cute excuse – and no doubt the genuine origin of this polarising principle – but I’ve always wondered whether a pilot who was too busy to remove his gloves would have been concerned with winding his watch, but then I suppose it gave him or her the option should it be necessary.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

The Zenith watches washington dc Replica Pilot Extra Special is powered by the in-house Elite Calibre 679. This is an automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It’s regrettable that the movement has been concealed behind a solid case back, but at least that case back features a nice design of a fixed-wing aircraft in flight. The brown leather strap is set-off by coordinating blue stitching and fastened by stainless steel buckle. The stainless steel case measures 45mm, excluding the crown. The sides of the case are grained and the left-hand flank features a polished plaque attached by two blued screws. This looks like it has been installed to facilitate engraving, which I’d normally baulk at for resale reasons, but if you treat yourself to this watch and intend on keeping it, I must say I can’t think of a watch that would better suit a nice, scrolled monogram!

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

The hour and minute hand are silver in colour and have a really retro style with heaps of lume to make this watch usable in low-light conditions. The seconds hand is blue and has a triangular, lumed head. The proportions of the second hand are very much to my liking: The luminous element of the hand is positioned so it never encroaches on the Arabic numerals, which are also glow-in-the-dark. In order to maintain accuracy and balance, however, a spindly finger extends from the tip of the luminous arrow to ensure the hand fills the case appropriately.

Zenith Pilot Extra Special Watch Collaboration With The Watch Gallery Watch Releases

This simple colour scheme, the omission of any superfluous design, the size, overall authenticity of the design, and the fact that just 35 pieces of this collaborative project will be produced gives this pilot’s watch an unusual level of appeal. I feel that Zenith watches type 20 Replica and The Watch Gallery have been quite clever with the price: Considering this is a three-hander with a simple, though imposing, case design, the £4,950 price tag might seem a bit steep when compared to the brand’s more complicated watches. But it is the limited nature of this piece that all but guarantees it will fly off the shelves. Getting a piece of the brand’s history – however basic the overall product may be – for less than five grand, is probably enough of a lure to part consumers from their cash. I wish it were half that price, but doubt it will be around long enough for me to get too attached to the idea of owning one. The Zenith Pilot Extra Special will be available online and throughout The Watch Gallery’s special Zenith outlets. Zenith-watches.com

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Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

For 2015, Zenith is producing a total of 10 very limited edition versions of their surprisingly successful Pilot Type 20 watch – and yes, I am talking about the very large 60mm-wide version of the Pilot Type 20 and not those “puny” 48mm wide (reviewed here) or even smaller versions. Actually, all of the Pilot Type 20 watches that Zenith has produced over the last few years have been limited edition models, to my knowledge. The two limited edition Zenith Pilot Type 20 watches for this year are the Pilot Type 20 Squelette – that we covered here – and this Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot. This unique timepiece series of five numbered pieces of each strikes a chord with various collectors with its impressive size, fun dial, retro aviation style case, and 1960s chronometry award winning base movement.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

What you need to know in a nutshell about this watch (aside from its impressive size and interesting movement) is that the case is produced from sapphire crystal and 18k white gold, that the movement has some very interesting hand-carved engraving decoration, and that the large dial is meteorite. Together, this makes for one cool timepiece, in my opinion, even though it is extremely limited, and also very expensive.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The 60mm-wide case of the Zenith watches singapore Replica Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot is 18.50mm thick and has some serious weight to it. Good thing the attached black alligator strap has a rubber lining so that it wears a bit more snugly on your wrist. Although some people might scoff at the idea of wearing a 60mm wide watch – it is doable. With that said, this might be one of those circumstances where carrying around the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot like an actual pocket watch might not be a terrible idea.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

What helped me fall in love with this watch is really the meteorite dial. I really love meteorite dials and think that Zenith incorporated one really well here into the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot. The textures and colors of the meteorite do not hinder dial legibility, and a hint of red on the face adds a welcome bit of color. The dial has indicators for the time with a subsidiary seconds dial, as well as a power reserve indicator for the movement.

Perhaps the most impressive part of the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot is how Zenith decided to decorate the movement. Look at the Zenith in-house made caliber 5011K movement through the sapphire crystal on the rear of the watch case and you’ll see a series of scenes inspired by aviation history engraved right into the movement bridges.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

If you noticed, the name of this watch is the Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot, and Louis Blériot was an early aviator who, according to Zenith, wore a Zenith timepiece on his wrist when flying across the English Channel in 1909. That must have been a very early wrist watch – but it was common during that era for watchmakers to help equip early aviators with timing instruments.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

It isn’t entirely clear whether the caliber 5011K movements are newly made or vintage and restored. Zenith has claimed that it found a number of 5011K movements in its archives and had dutifully restored them. I don’t know if they have enough of these movements for a series of limited editions or if Zenith is now producing new iterations of the 5011K movement using its historical plans. I think the story is, of course, more “romantic” if Zenith is using all old movements, but the reality of old movements is that many parts will likely need to be remade. More so, in some areas, producing new movements using caliber 5011K plans is perhaps a better idea than using only old ones.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

While the connection with Louis Blériot is tangential at best, the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot is a very interesting limited edition watch. Sometimes I think that Swiss watchmakers like Zenith feel that creating some “reason” for making a new watch, collectors will be more inclined to fall in love with a story as well as a product. With that in mind, I feel that when the products and the stories they are meant to connect with don’t necessarily glue together, then the product/story associations feel contrived and at best are merely confusing to consumers. Well, that’s the Swiss watch industry for you.

Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage À Louis Blériot Watch With Meteorite Dial Hands-On Hands-On

The caliber 5011K is said to have (in 1967) won a competition for the most accurate chronometer movement ever presented. That’s pretty cool, and I hope that such stories of exceptional performance still hold true today. See, at least the story of the movement’s award-winning nature is true and can be verified – so connecting it more to the product might have been a good idea.

Cool to look at and “just over the top enough,” the Zenith Pilot Type 20 Hommage à Louis Blériot watch will be limited to only five pieces total, with a price of 200,000 Swiss Francs each. zenith-watches.com

The second, more impressive feature, however, is its unusually high frequency. It beats 10 times per second, or 36,000 BPH, 25% faster than an ordinary modern watch, but an astonishing 100% faster than many watches at the time it was released. It quickly developed a strong reputation for accuracy and precision. In fact, the El Primero in this watch is, if the name didn’t give it away, a certified chronometer, and it thus carries with it a greater guarantee of accuracy than even most other El Primeros. Because it’s one of very few chronographs that beats 10 times per second, it can also measure events in 0.1 second increments, supposing that your reaction time is up to the challenge.One reason that our Timeless Chronomaster Heritage has been able to avoid the obesity that’s befallen many of its counterparts is because the El Primero is what is commonly called an integrated chronograph. In general, there are two kinds of chronographs, integrated ones, like you see here, and modular chronographs, which are also very common. Modular chronographs take an ordinary, non-chronograph movement and add a chronograph module to it. This makes it relatively easy for a company to produce chronographs because it doesn’t require the creation of an all-new movement from scratch, but it generally results in thicker than necessary movements.

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Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

Zenith are making the most of their 150th anniversary, and the Zenith watches Replica El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition is the latest celebratory piece to be revealed by the brand. Although the marketing material focuses on Zenith’s entire history, the truth is that the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition pays homage to a development made 46 years ago when Zenith released the world’s first integrated chronograph calibre.

The El Primero has gone on to reach a level of reverence modern movements will hope to emulate or exceed. It is, in my mind, the definitive luxury workhorse. Many watch aficionados will be familiar with (maybe even tired of), ETA’s family of ‘tractor’ movements, such as the 2824 base calibre or the 7750 chronograph. These are movements that function superbly well, but sometimes lack a little bit of an edge in terms of appearance. No one can fault their longevity or performance, but the Zenith watches for sale on ebay Replica El Primero matches up well in both categories while blasting the back doors of its rivals in the style stakes.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

Considering the money Zenith charge for an El Primero in one of their standard chronograph models, you’re getting a really handsome calibre for your buck. With my faith in the performance and enduring aesthetic of Zenith’s most famous calibre unwavering, my first concern is always how they choose to house the movement. It is the case, dial, and message that will, in my opinion, determine the success of each watch to feature the reliable El Primero. And, in this case, how expensive the skin makes the bones…

So let’s start with the message that Zenith were trying to deliver with the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition. Last year, Zenith became the official timekeeper for five of the official motor car races organized by Peter Auto (a company, not an aptly named individual). Through their association with these prestigious races, Zenith hopes to reaffirm their three core values – authenticity, daring, and pleasure. Supposedly, this has been achieved by referencing the grit, glamour, and gut-churning speed associated with motor sports in the watch’s aesthetic. Sometimes, when brands try and attach such emotive characteristics to a watch, it works brilliantly; sometimes, it feels a bit forced. In my opinion, the Tag Heuer Monaco is a great example of the former (for a classic example, check out this article, and for an avant-garde update of the watch, have a look at this recent release).

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

It gets its pedigree not from snazzy design cues or hidden visual messages, rather from being there, on the wrist of icons. In the case of the Zenith watches for ladies Replica El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, I would say the opposite. The idea that those three values would leap out of the dial without any prior knowledge of Zenith’s mission statement is pretty crazy. I find the explanation for the stylistic decisions made interesting and a valuable conversation piece, but that doesn’t mean I think it works in the metal.

When watches try and point your interpretation of them in a certain direction, it often feels a little conscious. There is nothing patently obvious about the Tag Heuer Monaco to suggest its motor racing heritage (it isn’t even round!). When a watch lacks the kind of authenticity Zenith claim to have installed in the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition, it has to be synthesized. And it is fair to say, however successful or otherwise you think they might have been, that Zenith have had a damn good go.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

In terms of visual links to speed and daring, Zenith watches brand ambassador Replica have decorated the right hand side of the silvered, open-heart dial, with a tricolor racing stripe in blue, white, and red. The stripe is continued onto the strap, where a ribbon of color takes over from the printed lines on the dial. I like racing stripes on cars. They are a simple way to decorate what would otherwise be a large, block-colored space. On a watch face, you don’t have so much room to play with. These three stripes, although adding a splash of patriotic color to the display, really clutter what is an already busy dial.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

When is it a good idea to go “all metal” and invest in a truly classic timepiece? I would say when you are looking for hand-finished decoration and other aesthetic elements which define a particularly classic look. If you want something more contemporary, then you go with something like the Defy Lab, or many of the timepieces that Jean-Claude Biver has helped usher in at the various LVMH brands including Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith.Current Zenith watches facebook Replica CEO Julien Tornare will have his hands full trying to juggle a brand that is both the maker of classic legends such as the El Primero, and emerging novelties which build on older technology such as the Defy El Primero 21 and the Defy Lab. These watches present traditional watch lovers with a tantalizing view of what can be available if you just let in what is new out there. Nevertheless, there will always be purists who want their watches as “old style” as can be. For everyone else, there are products like the Defy Lab. Personally, I see no reason why a well-rounded watch collection can’t have examples from both sides.Much of the caliber ZO 342 is silicon, including the large monolithic regulation component. This large silicon part is a regulation system that is called the “Zenith Oscillator,” which is buzzing with cheerful enthusiasm behind the entirety of the main dial. It’s a thrilling and visceral view, unlike pretty much anything in the watch industry today.

The color scheme is consistent, at least: the open-heart dial reveals the balance wheel and the dial-side end stone, which offers a dot of red to proceedings, and the blued screws that hold the balance display frame also tie in quite nicely. The hour and minute hands are silver with blue stripes towards the centre before lume takes over. The seconds hand is scarlet and features a skeletonized star as a counterpoise. It’s so in-your-face it kind of makes me smile. I actually like the way Zenith watches automatic Replica can get away with the star there because it is their default logo, but I doubt any of their designers were unaware of what it would look like (although the red/white/blue colour scheme is a nod to the French flag, the Zenith logo makes it look far more American). If you want to find an example of daring on this watch, maybe the thought that they’d get away with it should top the list.

I believe the aesthetics of this watch are striking, to say the least. Personally, I prefer the El Primero in a more rarefied setting, but it is not an inappropriate choice of engine for this ceremonial hot-rod of a watch. It, more than anything to do with the aesthetic, symbolizes authenticity and daring. Its creation was a seven-year labour of love that changed the chronograph game. Dressing it up in this Evel Knieval suit may be a bit crass, but its a self-assured enough calibre to take it in its stride. And to be honest, there are a few things I really like about this watch. I am a fan of the classic Zenith case shape, measuring 42mm across and 14.05mm tall.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

The brushed, rhodium plated dial background is subtle and a great base on which to build a design. The guiding star logo features prominently on a nicely fluted crown. There is a tachymeter, which is an authentic link to speed and genuinely useful for someone who watches a lot of motor sport live. Even the dial layout is interesting: in addition to the chronograph sub-dials (hours at 6 o’clock, minutes at 3), there is a subtly placed running seconds hand at 9 o’clock. It may not be immediately noticeable because of the way it overlays the open heart feature, but it is there and adds to the movement of the dial, increasing, as I’m sure Zenith would like you to notice, the appearance of speed.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

Its impossible to mention this watch’s links to speed without pointing out that the escapement is crafted from silicon and operates at a dizzying 36,000vph, or 5hz if you prefer. That’s fast. It’s a feature that helps improve accuracy and, thanks to the self-lubricating properties of silicon, does so without putting a huge strain on the power reserve, which sits at an impressive minimum of 50 hours. The movement, featuring a classic column wheel, is visible through a glass case back, which has been boldly decorated with Tour Auto logo, which reminded me of something you might see on a Tissot (you can see a more up-to-date example of this watch here) . Functionally, this watch is hard to fault. Stylistically, the Zenith watches new jersey Replica El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition is sure to divide. Love it or hate it, there is plenty to get your teeth into.

Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition Watch Watch Releases

With a price tag of $11,900, this Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tour Auto Edition is not the cheapest way to get an El Primero on to your wrist. It stands to reason that a lot of these watches released this year under the 150th anniversary banner will have some residual value to brand-specific collectors, but if you’re looking for an investment piece, maybe something a little more classically styled would provide a better return. If, however, you love cars and the American flag, this could be the perfect watch for you. But if you want one, you might need to summon your inner speed demon, as Zenith have announced that only 500 will be made. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

It happened earlier this year that Zenith released their Academy Georges Favre-Jacot watch in celebration of the 150th anniversary of the brand. Housed in a classical rose gold case, the watch was designed to draw attention to a bold new manufacture movement and put its fusée and chain mechanism under the spotlight. It was a bold watch that, as Zenith in general has been doing rather successfully lately, merged contemporary design with traditional mechanics. Now, just after the 150th anniversary, Zenith is presenting this also-limited edition follow-up, featuring the same movement dressed in a considerably more modern outfit with the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium watch.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Located between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, the kidney shaped upper section of the face shows off the remarkably complex fusée and chain mechanism. Originally designed to counter the effects of insufficient torque delivered by a mainspring near the end of its power reserve, this “device” comprises a bicycle-chain-like, well, chain, that connects the barrel with a geared cone with ascending ratios. It is as complex as it sounds, and this time around we really won’t go too into the finer details about the technical aspects, as this was covered in-depth in our hands-on article of the Zenith watches models Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot here.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

It is quite obvious that Zenith watches greece Replica wants to highlight aspects beyond the traditional and somewhat staid (and I mean those words in the best possible way) cues of the rose gold version. Indeed, the creation of (a rather ambitious number of) 150 limited edition pieces of this Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium model could be the alluding to the next 150 years, as opposed to celebrating the past one-and-a-half centuries. The use of concentric circles throughout the dial and the brushed titanium on the case helps add a lot of textural richness to the watch without having to compromise on the uniformity of the color scheme. The flat titanium case, as opposed to the curved gold, helps drive the edgy look home even more.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Let’s talk for a moment about the particular differences between these two models. Obviously, we mentioned the titanium case replacing the more old-fashioned alternative in rose gold. The Zenith watches le locle Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium version is also a tiny bit bigger, measuring 46mm over the 45mm of the rose gold version. While a little wider, it’s also thinner at 14.05mm thick – 0.30mm thinner than the gold watch. What you also get in terms of water resistance (though we doubt anybody is really taking either of these for a dive) is 100 meters for the titanium watch. The gold is water resistant to 30 meters. Though, again, it’s unlikely either of these watches is going to see a lot of action underwater, that 100 meter (or 10 bar) rating assures that even if accidentally submerged in a swimming pool, say, the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium will resurface unscathed.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The hour markers keep up with this theme of embracing the new over the traditional in the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium. The gold version had classical gold-plated and faceted hour markers which stand in pretty stark contrast to the rhodium-plated, faceted hour markers with SuperLuminova SLN on the titanium model. Also of note, where the gold model had small, hardly-noticeable five-minute markers, the titanium model has them larger, bolder, and in an almost racing-inspired font.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On
For all-around watch nerdiness, both are compelling timepieces but clearly different. Both also share a fondness for silicon – which Zenith watches el primero price Replica is backing in a big way these days. Silicon is what makes movements like the ZO 342 even possible. Replacing metal with silicon is how these parts are able to move quickly and reliably. Unlike metal, silicon isn’t affected by temperature or magnetism, and because it has much lower friction, it doesn’t require lubrication. More so, the ability to cut very small, very precise parts allows for mechanisms not previously available when metal was more or less the only material option. These manufacturing options combined with computer modeling software have allowed for a new generation of mechanical watch movements such as the ZO 342 that combine traditional concepts of how a small machine tells the time, with a lot of modern know-how.

And what of the fusee and chain system on the Zenith watches 1965 Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium? Again, no sign of the gold anywhere. Interestingly enough, if you look closely, Zenith didn’t choose to import the blue star on the dial over the barrel on the left-side. The star is still there, but it is an austere grey rather than blue. However, you’ve got the two blue screws on the thicker, non-wishbone bridges. A wishbone shape, as seen on the gold version, immediately insinuates a feeling of being delicate, but Zenith went for a sturdy-looking bridge on the Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium. Smartly, they cut the utilitarian look a little bit by adding the blue screws for a dash of color.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

I know it seems I am harping a bit on every small aesthetic change that Zenith watches value Replica chose to make with this watch, but it’s clear that every single choice they made was designed to create a sum of its parts that evokes a very specific response from the wearer. One of the biggest changes (not including the build material) is the power reserve indicator. It looks racing-inspired, with a stark, albeit somewhat flat red hand, rather than the very traditional-looking indicator on the gold watch. You’ll also notice the blue hour and minute hands are replaced by bold titanium hands that do tend to provide a few legibility issues under specific lighting situations.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

So, what’s next? You guessed it: the caseback! Gone is the three-quarter bridge with gold plating and Geneva stripes. In the Zenith watches watchuseek Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium, we’ve got a black carbon, almost basket-weaved pattern adorning the caseback. The semi-skeletonized look shows us bits of the movement, but interestingly enough, there really isn’t that much to look at. Clearly, the main event is the fusée and chain mechanism.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith is a brand with a profoundly distinguished history. The El Primero movement is one of the most lauded movements in history, but the brand does seem to be at a crossroads. However, there are more brands than ever that are creating avant-garde designs appealing to watch buyers and collectors who want something a little different. De Bethune, Richard Mille, and MB&F come to mind when thinking about visually striking brands that are giving many options to these buyers. There is obviously no way that this Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium watch is going as far in an aesthetic direction as the aforementioned brands, but if we take this watch as a sign of things to come, it is obvious that the brand is looking at adopting and creating more contemporary designs in their watches.

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Of course, contemporary watch styles aren’t complete anathema to Zenith. The El Primero Stratos Spindrift Racing watch and the El Primero Lightweight Limited Edition Skeletonized watch come to mind when thinking about a lot of similar design cues. The hour and five-minute markers are clearly influenced by these models, and the aforementioned “basket-weave” pattern in black carbon also comes into play. With a price of 69,000 CHF, the Zenith watches book Replica Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Titanium watch is a successful reinterpretation of the gold watch for a buyer who wants a more sleek and contemporary look. zenith-watches.com

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Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With legacy pieces like the A386 and modern touchstones like the Rainbow Flyback, Zenith watches in dubai Replica and their El Primero chronograph movement have become a striking force within the world of luxury sport chronographs. Not one to let a good movement miss a chance to shine, Zenith announced the decidedly dressy Zenith El Primero Chonograph Classic at Baselworld earlier this year. Tux-ready in either steel or rose gold, the El Primero Classic is aesthetically minimal, stunningly beautiful, and a perfect illustration of a Zenith chronograph turned classic.

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Despite the Zenith watches jomashop Replica El Primero Chronograph Classic’s dressy and vintage-inspired vibe, its 42mm case size is resolutely modern. While 42mm is well within my preferred sizing for watches, the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic feels like much of Zenith’s lineup – large enough for its form. I don’t link it’s over sized or too large and, even with a thickness of 11.8mm, the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic wears well and looks great on wrist. With a domed and anti-reflective sapphire upfront and a sapphire display case back, there isn’t a bad angle on this buttoned-down Zenith. Thanks to the included rubber-lined black alligator strap, the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic is versatile enough for everyday wear, especially in steel.

The lightly brushed silver-toned dial and blue steel sub dial hands are shared by both versions, while the main hands and markers are case metal-coordinated. Legibility is excellent and the detailing and case finishing is what we would expect from Zenith, with a pleasing mix of polished and brushed elements. The sub dial at nine presents a running seconds display while the sub dial at three counts the chronograph minutes. There is no date function, and its omission is nothing short of genius thinking by Zenith – you can’t do “less is more” and “one more thing” at the same time.

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Rapidly ticking away inside that minimal exterior is a new high-frequency automatic movement, the Zenith watch space jump Replica calibre 4096. Replete with a column wheel, the 4096 beats at 5Hz (36,000 vph), offers a power reserve of 50 hours, and employs some 31 jewels. The El Primero has become Zenith’s calling card and rightfully so, as it was one of the first (if not the first) automatic chronograph movements on the market.

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The discussion about mechanical wristwatch accuracy can be long and is way outside the scope of us introducing the Zenith Defy Lab. Suffice it to say that Zenith’s claimed accuracy of 0.3 seconds per day for the caliber ZO 342 movement in this first model is going to cause a lot of people to do a double take because of how impressive it is (for a mechanical watch). Note that for production models down the road (when there is less opportunity to spend so much time choosing the right parts), accuracy will be guaranteed to +/- 0.5 seconds a day… with no loss in rate results as the torque of the mainspring winds down. In other words, the rate results are a flat horizontal line, which is something that silicon technology has made much more readily available in mechanical time measuring tools.

Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic is one of my favorite pieces from Zenith in a long time. It’s beautifully proportioned, feels great on wrist and rocks a desirable chronograph movement. In gold or steel, the Zenith El Primero Chronograph Classic is a remarkably pretty watch that is sized for modern wrists and offers a quietly confident charm. The gold version is limited to 150 units at a list price of $21,600 USD, while the steel version will command an $8,900 price tag but won’t be limited in production. zenith-watches.com

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Another important goal for us was to avoid the overlapping dials found in so many modern Zeniths. These are often criticized by collectors, even fellow Zenith fans, although I’ve never personally found it to be troubling. The overlapping sub-dials matched the effortless avant-garde nature of the tri-color El Primero quite well, being almost flippant with its design. That sort of brashness works well on overtly sporty models, should a brand be gutsy enough to actually try it, but for a much dressier, more austere model like the Timeless Chronomaster Heritage it wouldn’t do. Naturally, we wouldn’t dare modify the El Primero within to space the sub-dials out further, so we were necessarily restricted as to where the sub-dials must be located. The solution was self-evident: the sub-dials had to be smaller. Although reduced in size, they’re now as large as they can possibly be without overlapping, and to aid in legibility, there is a subtle ring, a change in texture, around each sub-dial which helps separate it from the surrounding dial without need for an outline or applied marker.One of the other important changes we made was moving to a new case. We chose the Heritage 146 case due to its size and classic design. As is so often the situation for our limited editions, we opted to use a 38mm size. In general, we use 38mm cases because we find it to be a very versatile size, and in a small run limited edition we want to reach the broadest variety of collectors possible. You’ll also notice in this photo that the crown is quite a bit thinner than the Heritage 146’s crown. The A273’s crown was also fairly thick, but again, we felt that the slightly thinner crown was more consistent with its dressier image. Being an accurate, automatic watch with no need to set the date, the crown won’t be needed particularly often to begin with. You’ll also notice that the pushers have a small groove in them, another subtle difference from the original.

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

We have recently introduced a new series called “Cost of Entry” which features the most affordable model offered by a popular watch company, and we are kicking the series off with none other than Rolex. Speaking of Rolex, we are also taking a close look at their sister company Tudor, and how their newest watches and recently announced in-house movement are going to affect the market for Swiss tool watches.

It is often said that the best way to engage customers (and the press) is to invite them to tour the manufacture – we have dozens of manufacture visit articles published here, on aBlogtoWatch. The chance to go on a trip aside, it is through these articles that we can get closest to the craftsmen and artisans who manufacture the watch, and such trips are always enlightening and eye-opening. In this round-up, we show you what goes on behind the scenes at one of the oldest and most respected names in the business – Minerva.

And to end the month of May, we are also looking at new watches from Piaget, Jean Dunand, and a comparative review of two hi-beat watches from Zenith and Grand Seiko.

1. Cost Of Entry: Rolex Watches

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

Cost of Entry is a new series that looks at what it costs to purchase the least expensive model offered by a popular watch company. We are kicking off with Rolex, one of the absolute most sought after watch brands in the world. Starting off with Rolex is fitting because this year Rolex introduced its new Oyster Perpetual collection, which comprises different sizes and dial variations of what is Rolex’s most basic watch. It is offered as a time-only three hander and is available in a variety of sizes to suit both men and women. If you are looking to get a solid watch from Rolex with the least amount of money, you’d want to read this to see how it compares to other offerings by Rolex and its competitors.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Tudor Style Watch Review

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

Tudor’s recent sports watches such as the Heritage Black Bay and Heritage Chrono Blue have been sell-out hits. However, Tudor also quietly launched a new line of dress style watches aptly called the the Tudor Style earlier this year. It sports a really dressy and elegant look and has hints of vintage-inspired design cues. What’s more, it comes in various sizes – 28mm up to 41mm – with prices beginning at just over $2000, which makes it one of the most bang-for-buck serious dress watches you can buy when you are looking to get something with a top-brand’s name on the dial.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Piaget Altiplano Chronograph Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

Mention ultra-thin watches, and it is hard to not think of Piaget. They have been breaking records for thinnest watches for a long time, and for 2015, they came up with the Altiplano Chronograph – now the world’s thinnest hand-wound flyback chronograph. The caliber 883P that powers it is just 4.65mm thick, and the entire watch itself is only 8.24mm thick. Yet the watch features a flyback chronograph mechanism, a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock, running seconds at 6 o’clock, and – get this – a GMT dial at 9 o’clock. Piaget truly are masters at being thin.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. Seiko Marinemaster Professional 1,000M Diver’s Hi-Beat Limited Edition SBEX001 Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

To celebrate Seiko’s 50th anniversary of its very first dive watch, the Japanese manufacture has a new limited edition dive watch – the SBEX001. Did you know that Seiko was the first to use titanium in a dive watch? And that they were also the first to fit a quartz movement in a saturation dive watch? So to demonstrate its prowess in crafting dive watches, the new SBEX001 is water resistant to 1000m and features a hi-beat movement that is derived from Seiko’s high-end Grand Seiko watches.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Jean Dunand Shabaka Watch For 2015 Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

The Shabaka from Jean Dunand is not exactly new. It debuted in 2007, but that watch had an angular case with an integrated lug design. New for this year, the Shabaka has been updated and now features a more familiar round case. Nevertheless, it is still a highly unusual and unique watch that features perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications, and shows the day, date and year by way of a unique roller system.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

6. New Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 & Elvis Presley’s Original Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends May 22, 2015 ABTW Round-Ups

If you are like me and like watches with distinct and perhaps even unusual designs, then Hamilton’s Ventura watches should register on your radar. The Ventura has a highly angular, trapezoidal case that is unlike any other, and it was thrusted into the spotlight when Elvis Presley wore one in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii. To celebrate what would have been the King’s 80th birthday, Hamilton has just released the new Hamilton Ventura Elvis80 watch.

Source: aBlogtoWatch